If you have vegetables that are blooming but not setting fruit, you may have a problem with flower pollination. There are several possible reasons for this that usually vary by species. One condition that can affect several species at the same time is overfertilization. Too much nitrogen causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Overfertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers produced.

Squash, cucumbers, watermelon, and muskmelon can have a couple of other problems. First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male. The production of both male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes. You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom. If you have both, have not over-fertilized, and still have a problem, make sure you have pollinators. Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants. If you don't see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on only those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators. Make sure you aren't killing them with overuse of insecticides.

Tomatoes are wind pollinated and therefore not dependent on pollinators. But they have another possible problem, which is temperature. Tomatoes normally won't set if the night temperature is below 50 due to sparse pollen production. They also won't set when nighttime temperatures are above 75 degrees F and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees F with dry, hot winds. (Ward Upham)

Next year's strawberry crop will be affected by what you do to this year's strawberry bed. The sooner after harvest the patch is cleaned up, fertilized and irrigated, if possible, the better the chance of getting a good crop next year. One of the main goals in renovation is to provide a high level of sunlight to plant leaves so they can manufacture the food the plant needs. If leaves have disease spots, remove all the leaves in the bed. Removing these diseased leaves and weeds will cause new, non-diseased leaves to develop and remove competition from weedy plants. Hedge shears or even a mower can be used. Be sure the mower blade is high enough to avoid the strawberry crowns.

It is also important to reduce the number of strawberry plants so they do not compete for light, moisture and nutrients. If you have a small bed, you can hoe out or pull some plants so they are spaced about 4 to 6 inches apart. On large beds, adjust a rototiller so you can till between the rows, and cut each row back to about 10 inches wide.

The next step is to fertilize the plants with about 3/4 to 1 pound (3 to 4 cups) of a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or an equivalent on each 25 feet of row. If a soil test shows adequate levels of phosphorus and potassium, use 3/4 pound (1.5 cups) of a 16-0-0 (nitrate of soda) fertilizer per 25 feet of row instead. If nitrate of soda is unavailable, use the lawn fertilizer that contains about 30% nitrogen such as a 30-0-3, 28-0-3 or something similar. Make sure the lawn fertilizer does not contain a weed killer or preventer. These fertilizers should be used at the rate of 3/4 cup per 25 feet of row.

The next step is to irrigate to wash the fertilizer into the soil and provide moisture for the rapid growth of the strawberry plants. When the soil is dry, apply about 1 inch of water. A garden sprinkler can do a good job applying the water.

Controlling weeds and watering throughout the summer are important so plants are vigorous when fruit buds begin to develop in September and October. (Ward Upham)

Looking to add a bit of whimsy to your garden this year? I was recently on the hunt for a tree with interesting features that are a bit Dr. Seuss-like. You know, weeping habit, curvy trunks, pom-pom ball pruning…the whole nine yards.  I thought I’d share my finds with you in case you’ve got a curious child in your life that would really enjoy a fun plant.
I’m always interested in the actual plants, of course, but I think it’s interesting and worth noting how they grow the way they grow. Most interesting cultivars or varieties of ornamental plants are discovered by unusual growth called  “sports,” originate from a “witch’s broom,” involve unique traits on a seedling, hybrid or plant breeding resulting in polyploidism (bigger flowers, bigger fruit, but often brings sterility and cross fertilization incompatibility). However those unique traits are found, they are generally cloned (vegetative cuttings) and grafted onto more stable roots.

Of course there are always unique ways of pruning plants into topiaries as well, but let’s get into the plants.

If you’re looking all for a weeping tree, there are lots of choices. For starters, the redbud is a great plant for our region. You can’t go wrong with dark pink flowers in the spring and large, glossy, heart-shaped leaves in the summer.   Add a weeping feature and you’re in business. Popular weeping cultivars of redbud (Cercis canadensis)( are ‘Lavender Twist’ and ‘Ruby Falls.’ The latter has red/purple leaves in the summer.

Other deciduous weeping trees include Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum ‘Ryussen’), Mimosa (Albizia julibrissin ‘Pendula’), River Birch (Betula nigra ‘Summer Cascade’), European Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus ‘Pendula’), and Baldcypress (Taxodium distichum ‘Cascade Falls’ or ‘Falling Water’) just to name a few. Evergreen weeping plants can range from our native Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana ‘Pendula’) to Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus  libani ‘Pendula’) and Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca Pendula’).

How about splendiferous plants with contorted stems and leaves? Corkscrew Willow (Salix matsudana ‘Tortuosa’) is a wonderful deciduous tree that fits the description. It’s just fascinating to look at all of the curly branches and stems. But this is a willow and it needs to be planted a good distance from your house and any water features. The roots of willow can be fairly invasive when looking for water sources.

In the shrub category, there is Harry Lauder’s Walkingstick (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’). This is a fantastic plant for winter interest. In the summer it can be difficult to notice the uniquely contorted stems when the leaves cover the plant, but it’s a great specimen to bring some Dr. Seuss to leafless days. In the annuals category, a great plant for container gardens is Soft Rush (Juncus effusus). With cultivars like ‘Curly Wurly’, ‘Spiralis’ and ‘Unicorn’ you can be assured that someone will ask you about it.

How about pom pom type growth? Allium bulbs are great for this effect. They send up a single stalk with a round inflorescence at the top in spring and summer. There are many types with features ranging from size of the inflorescence, height of the stalk and color (purple to white). Smaller annual plants like Gomphrena have pom pom type inflorescences that are smaller, but more prolific. Great for containers or flower beds!

These plants are mostly what I’d call “specimen” plants and may be more difficult to find in the nursery than others. You may have to special order or mail order some of them, but they’re available. Hunting for plants for your Dr. Seuss plant collection or garden might just be the fun endeavor you’ve been looking for lately. (Cheryl Boyer)

Chiggers are mites, not insects. And like all mites, the adults have eight legs.  However, the larva only has six legs.

Though the bright red female adult is tiny (about 1/20th of an inch) the larva is much smaller (about 1/150th of an inch). Only the larvae are parasitic and attack animals. The larva injects digestive juices into the skin, which causes a rapid swelling. In the center of the swelling is a "feeding tube" from which the chigger sucks out liquefied skin cells. Feeding usually continues for 2 to 4 days.

Protection from chiggers uses two approaches. The use of a repellent can discourage chiggers from attacking. The most effective repellents are Deet and permethrin. Both are applied to clothing. The second approach seeks to reduce chigger populations. Keeping the lawn mowed regularly can help, but large populations may require the use of an acaricide. Effective products include bifenthrin (Talstar, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster Bifenthrin, and Ortho Lawn Insect Killer Granules), cyfluthrin (Tempo 20, Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray) and carbaryl (Sevin). For more information, see the K- State Research and Extension publication titled, “Chiggers” at: http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/MF2107.PDF     (Ward Upham)

Several new publications have been released recently that should be helpful to gardeners.

Harlequin Bug (MF3135) - A destructive pest of vegetable crops, especially the cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.

Japanese Beetle (MF3151) -   Though this insect became established in Kansas in 1992, it remained confined to certain areas of the state for a number of years.  However, populations have been increasing and new areas are becoming infested.   Japanese beetle has a very wide host range (reportedly 300 to 400 plant species) including many vegetables, fruits and ornamentals.

Spotted Wing Drosophila (MF3158) - First detected in Kansas in 2013, this pest of fruit can attack a wide variety of small fruit including blackberries, blueberries, boysenberries, raspberries, strawberries, and grapes. Raspberries appear to be more susceptible than blackberries, blueberries, and strawberries.  Tree fruit such as apples, cherries, figs, nectarines, peaches, persimmons, and plums can also be attacked.

Tree and Shrub Problems in Kansas: Diseases, Insects, and Environmental Stresses (MF3132) - We have mentioned this one before but wanted to highlight it again as it is a very valuable resource.  This is a 92-page publication with 116 color images to help with identification. (Ward Upham)

These finger-shaped mushrooms live up to their name.  As they mature, they become extremely foul smelling.  The odor is reminiscent of rotting meat or, in some cases, of what a dog leaves behind after it has done its “business.”

Stinkhorn mushrooms live on dead organic matter such as is found in mulched areas (especially bark mulch), fields or in yards.  The finger-like fruiting body arises from a sac-like structure at the base.  A slimy spore mass eventually develops at the tip of the stalk.  It is the spore mass that causes the odor.  This spore mass also attracts flies which help spread the spores to new areas.

The question always comes up on how to prevent or control these mushrooms.  Since the main part of the fungus, the mycelium, is underground there isn’t anything you can do but remove the mushrooms as they appear.  Remember the mushroom is the fruiting body of the mushroom and it is the mycelium that must be controlled to prevent the mushrooms.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Cheryl Boyer, Nursery Crops Specialist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

This time of year, two common leaf-spot diseases appear on tomato plants. Septoria leaf spot and early blight are both characterized by brown spots on the leaves.

Septoria leaf spot usually appears earlier in the season than early blight and produces small dark spots. Spots made by early blight are much larger and often have a distorted “target” pattern of concentric circles. Heavily infected leaves eventually turn yellow and drop. Older leaves are more susceptible than younger ones, so these diseases often start at the bottom of the plant and work up.

Mulching, caging, or staking keeps plants off the ground, making them less vulnerable. Better air circulation allows foliage to dry quicker than in plants allowed to sprawl. Mulching also helps prevent water from splashing and carrying disease spores to the plant.  

In situations where these diseases have been a problem in the past, rotation is a good strategy. It is too late for that now, but keep it in mind for next year. Actually, rotation is a good idea even if you have not had problems in the past. But many gardens are too small to make it practical. If you have room, rotate the location of the tomatoes each year to an area that has not had tomatoes or related crops (peppers, potatoes, eggplant) for several years.

If rotation is not feasible, fungicides are often helpful. Be sure to cover both upper and lower leaf surfaces, and reapply fungicide if rainfall removes it. Plants usually become susceptible when the tomato fruit is about the size of a walnut. Chlorothalonil is a good choice for fruiting plants because it has a 0-day waiting period, meaning that fruit can be harvested once the spray is dry.  Chlorothalonil can be found in numerous products including Fertilome Broad-Spectrum Landscape and Garden Fungicide, Ortho Garden Disease Control, GardenTech Daconil and others. Be sure to start protecting plants when the disease is first seen. It is virtually impossible to stop it on heavily infected plants.

If chlorothalonil doesn’t seem to be effective, try mancozeb (Bonide Mancozeb Flowable). Note that there is a five-day waiting period between application and when the fruit can be harvested. You may wish to pick some tomatoes green just before you spray if you use Mancozeb as they will ripen inside. (Ward Upham)

This is the time of year that onions grow and develop rapidly. Regular watering (if needed) and a light fertilization are helpful to maximize growth. Onions develop so that as much as 2/3 of the bulb remains out of the soil. This is normal and there is no need to cover the bulb with soil.

A gardener can tell when onions are nearing harvest time by some of the tops falling over. You may wish to break over the tops that haven’t fallen to encourage drying of the neck. Allow a few days to pass and then dig the onions to insure they don’t sunburn. Temporarily store them in a dry, well-ventilated area for a week or two before cutting the tops to insure the necks are completely dry. Remove the foliage (or braid the leaves) and store in a cool, dry location. (Ward Upham)

Rose rosette is a serious problem in Kansas on wild roses (Rosa multiflora) in pastures and hedges. It has also occasionally been found in domestic rose plantings.

Infection is thought to start with rapid elongation of a new shoot. The rapid shoot growth may continue for several weeks to a length of two to three feet. Following shoot elongation, a witches' broom or clustering of small branches occurs. The stems develop excessive thorniness and produce small, deformed leaves with a reddish-purple pigmentation. Stems and petioles of Rosa multiflora plants may have reddish blotches or streaks. Rose plants infected with the rose rosette virus die rapidly, usually within one to two years.    

Rose rosette is caused by an Emaravirus species.  Transmission of the disease has been shown experimentally through grafting and is also thought to be spread by mites. Though KnockOut roses are resistant to many diseases, they are susceptible to this one.

There is no effective control measure for infected plants. In garden settings, infected plants should be removed and destroyed, including roots. Any roots that remain after plant removal may produce infected shoots which can harbor the disease.

If possible, eliminate all multiflora rose plants from the vicinity as they are extremely susceptible and will act as a carrier. Multiflora rose is the wild rose often seen growing in ditches and pastures. Since the disease can be transmitted by pruning shears, disinfect the shears when moving from one plant to another by using rubbing alcohol or a disinfectant such as Lysol. (Ward Upham)

Every year we see damage caused by exposure to herbicides. Symptoms vary with herbicide applied, plants exposed, concentration of product and environmental factors. Here is a list of the types of damage commonly seen.

Broadleaf herbicide drift. A number of herbicides used on farms and on home lawns are essentially plant growth hormones. These include 2,4-D, triclopyr, and dicamba and are commonly used to control broadleaf weeds in lawns, pastures, or grassy crops. These products may become a gas (volatilize) at high temperatures, causing them to drift and damage nontarget plants such as trees and shrubs. Symptoms may include twisting and distortion of plant foliage, leaf yellowing, and, in severe cases, branch dieback. One of the trademark signs of this damage is the curly-Q twisting of leaf petioles or stems. Though tomatoes, redbud trees, and grapes are sensitive to these herbicides, a number of species will show some damage if drift has occurred. If you see twisting on more than one species, chances are that herbicide drift has occurred. Often, plants recover from drift due to volatilization.

Damage to vegetable gardens. Though drift is the most common cause of herbicide damage on vegetables, other potential problems exist as well. Cattle fed prairie hay from pasture treated with picloram (Tordon) can have manure tainted with the herbicide. If this manure is used on a vegetable garden, plants may sicken and die. Also, lawn clippings treated with quinclorac (a crabgrass killer) and used as mulch can have the same effect. Both products can remain active for up to 24 months.

Damage from stump or sprout treatments. Tree stumps often are treated to prevent resprouting. Two commonly used products are picloram (Tordon) and triclopyr (Remedy, Stump Killer, Brush-B-Gon, etc.). Be careful when applying these herbicides to prevent contamination of the soil. Nearby trees may be damaged if they pick up enough herbicide. Foresters warn that picloram also may leach from roots of a treated tree into the soil and be absorbed by roots of another tree species. This does not occur with triclopyr. Be very careful about using these products near valuable trees and shrubs.

Sprouts are often treated to keep them from growing where they interfere with the aesthetics of a lawn or other landscaped area. Never use a herbicide to treat sprouts coming from a root system of a tree you want to keep. A number of tree species including honey locust, black locust, hackberry, western soapberry, persimmon, and occasionally, maples may send up sprouts from their roots.

Treating these sprouts will effectively treat the tree to which they are attached. This may ultimately kill the tree. Also remember that trees of the same species growing next to one another may share a root system as a result of root grafting. Treating one tree in the group is like treating all of the trees.

If treating volunteer sprouts, use a product such as Monterey Sucker-Stopper. It will not harm the plant to which the sprouts are attached.


Liquid Weed Edgers. Herbicides are often used along fences, on sidewalks or gravel drives to prevent plant growth. Some of these, including glyphosate (Roundup) and glufosinate (Finale) rarely causes damage unless sprayed directly on the foliage of a shrub or tree. Other liquid weed edger products are soil sterilants and have a long residual (months to years) in soil and are highly toxic to trees and shrubs. Symptoms may include yellowing, marginal leaf scorching, branch dieback and tree mortality. Once the tree takes up these products through their roots, they suffer permanent damage. Never use these soil sterilants in areas where tree roots may be exposed.  Remember that tree roots extend well beyond the drip line. It is almost impossible to use liquid weed edgers in the landscape without coming in contact with tree roots. Also remember that some of these products, such as prometon, will move with water until they become affixed to the soil. (Ward Upham)

Squash bugs are the grey, shield-shaped bugs that feed on squash and pumpkin plants. If you have had problems with these insects in the past, you know that they are almost impossible to control when mature. This is because the squash bugs have a hard body that an insecticide has difficulty penetrating. Thus, spraying when the insects are small is important. We are now seeing the nymphs of the first generation. These nymphs will eventually become adults, which will lay eggs that will become the second generation. The second generation is often huge and devastating. Therefore, it is important to control as many squash bugs now as possible.

Because squash bugs feed by sucking juice from the plant, only insecticides that directly contact the insect will work. General use insecticides such as permethrin (Bug-B-Gon Multi-Purpose Garden Dust, Green Thumb Multipurpose Garden and Pet Dust, Bug-No-More Yard and Garden Insect Spray, Eight Vegetable, Fruit and Flower Concentrate, Garden, Pet and Livestock Insect Control, Lawn & Garden Insect Killer), malathion, and methoxychlor provide control if a direct application is made to young, soft-bodied squash bugs. This means that you MUST spray or dust the underside of the leaves because this is where the insects live. (Ward Upham)

Daytime/midday butterfly flurries along trails invariability are attributed to hackberry caterpillar butterflies. Outbreaks of hackberry butterflies are sporadic and unpredictable. While hackberry butterflies are present every year and often go unnoticed, “outbreaks” may cause concern.

Exact reasons to explain outbreaks are unknown. An often-cited reason to explain them is the  mildness or severity of the previous winter. This breaks down, however, if one looks at a relatively limited geographical area experiencing a spate of hackberry butterflies, against other areas which experienced the same winter conditions ---- which begs the question, “Why here and not there?”

The definitive work done by C. V. Riley in Missouri )1874( documented that hackberry butterflies produced 2 generations per year, with the larvae emerging from the eggs of second generation moths being the overwintering form. Based on this, there would be little reason not to expect the same 2 generation scenario in Kansas.  So what is the commotion about regarding hackberry caterpillar butterflies? It is the butterfly themselves, as well as the impact of larval activities.

The presence of the larvae precedes that of the butterflies. The head of the larva has an interesting look: a black horned appearance.

In the absence of people, hackberry caterpillars go about their business without causing concern. However when people decide to “invade” the domain of hackberry caterpillars, a couple of situations occur. First, if picnicking beneath hackberry trees in which caterpillars are feeding, the rain-of-fecal pellets can be unappetizing.

Second, after caterpillars have completed their feeding up in the canopy of hackberry trees, they descend to the ground in search of a site in which they will pupate. This stream of caterpillars (again in the presence of people) may be disconcerting.

Tremendous numbers of larvae translate into eventual tremendous numbers of butterflies. Thus, the “nuisance factor” continues upon completion of pupation and the emergence of the “new” butterflies. (Bob Bauernfeind)

This is a new pest for me, but I have had two calls on elm flea weevil causing damage to Siberian elm in the last week.  One was from northern Kansas (Mitchell County) and the other further south in the Wichita area. Though this weevil does feed on other elms including American and Chinese elms, Siberian elm is preferred.

The adult of this insect is a very small (1/8 inch) brown weevil with dark spots on the back. It sports a short, curved snout and has the ability to hop.

Eggs from overwintering adults hatch on newly formed leaves.  The larva produces a serpentine pattern in the leaf that terminates on a leaf edge.  Adults have emerged now and are feeding on the leaves.  Adult feeding damage produces a shothole pattern in the leaves.  Heavily fed upon leaves appear lacy.  There is one generation per year and so when the adults disappear, there should be no further damage this year.

I have not seen any control strategies for this insect.  Trees typically recover from spring defoliations.  (Ward Upham)

The frequent, heavy rains in certain areas of the state have resulted in the appearance of mushrooms in home lawns and landscape beds.  Although mushrooms are often spectacular in size and color, most are relatively harmless to plant life. Some of these mushrooms are associated with arc-like or circular patterns in turfgrass called fairy rings. The ring pattern is caused by the outward growth of fungal mycelium. The mycelium forms a dense, mat-like structure in the soil that decomposes organic matter. This decomposition releases nitrate into the soil, which in turn stimulates the growth of the grass at the outer portion of the ring. This results in a dark green appearance of the grass at the margin of the ring.

Unfortunately, the thick fungal mat formed by the fairy ring fungus interferes with water infiltration. The fungus also may release certain byproducts that are toxic to the turf. This can lead to dieback of the turf close to the ring. Fairy rings are difficult to control. You can sometimes eliminate the ring by digging to a depth of 6 to 12 inches and 12 inches wide on both sides of the ring, refilling the hole with non-infested soil. Or you can try to mask the symptoms by fertilizing the rest of the lawn so that it is as dark green as the ring. This often isn't a good idea because it tends to promote other turf problems. Commercial people can use certain fungicides to control fairy rings but these products are not available to homeowners. See http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/EP155.pdf  for more info on these fungicides.        

Some mushrooms in lawns are not associated with fairy rings. These may be mycorrhizal (symbiotic association with tree roots) or saprophytic (live on dead organic matter such as wood, etc.) in the soil. Because some of these mushrooms are beneficial, you don't really want to kill them. Besides, a fungicide spray to the mushroom itself does little good. Remember the mushroom is simply the fruiting structure of the organism. Most of the fungus is below ground and inaccessible to the chemical. If mushrooms are a nuisance, pick them and dispose of them as soon as they appear. Also, remove sources of large organic debris from the soil. Also, mushrooms tend to go away as soil dries. Patience may be the best control. Some of the mushrooms in the lawn are edible, but others are poisonous. Never eat mushrooms unless you are sure of their identity. (Ward Upham)   

Contributors: Bob Bauernfeind, Entomologist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Watch for rust on hollyhock. This is the most common disease on hollyhock and can cause serious injury as leaves are progressively killed through the summer. Look for yellow spots on the surface of the leaves and orangish to brown pustules on the underside. Infections can also take place on stems and green flower parts.

The first line of defense is to remove all hollyhock stalks, leaves and other debris in the fall and destroy them. Remove any infected foliage you see now. Just be sure the foliage is dry so you don’t spread the
disease. Continue to remove diseased leaves as soon as they show spots. Try using a fungicide such as sulfur or myclobutanil (Immunox or Immunox Plus) to protect healthy foliage. Note that sulfur may burn leaves if the air temperature is over 85 degrees within 24 hours of application. Follow label directions for timing and rate. (Ward Upham)

Many gardeners look forward to harvesting new potatoes this time of year. New potatoes are immature and should be about the size of walnuts.  Pull soil away from the base of the plants to see if the tubers are the desired size. If they are, dig entire plants and allow the skins of the  exposed tubers to dry for several hours before gathering. These young potatoes are very tender and prone to the skin “slipping” unless they are given a few hours to dry. Even then these immature potatoes will not store well. Red-skinned varieties are often preferred as they are the earliest to produce. (Ward Upham)

Now is a good time to mulch garden vegetables if you haven’t done so already. Mulches provide several benefits including weed prevention, reduced watering due to less evaporation and cooler soils that enhance root growth. Straw and hay are popular mulches in Kansas due to their availability. However, both may contain weed seeds that will germinate if the thatch layer is not thick enough. Grass clippings can also be used if the lawn has not been treated with weed killers. Add only a thin layer of clippings at a time and allow to dry for 2 to 3 days before adding more. A thick layer will form a mold that is almost impervious to water. A mulch layer one-half to three-quarters inch thick is about right for grass clippings but hay or straw should be at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. (Ward Upham)

Though tomatoes need to be fertilized to yield well, too much nitrogen can result in large plants with little to no fruit. Tomatoes should be fertilized before planting and sidedressed with a nitrogen fertilizer three times during the season.The first sidedressing should go down one to two weeks before the first tomato ripens. The second should be applied two weeks after the first tomato ripens and the third one month after the second. Common sources of nitrogen-only fertilizers include nitrate of soda, urea, and ammonium sulfate. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains primarily, but not exclusively, nitrogen.
Use only one of the listed fertilizers and apply at the rate given below.

If you cannot find the above materials, you can use a lawn fertilizer that is about 30 percent nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number in the set of three) and apply it at the rate of 1/3 pound (3/4 cup) per 30 feet of row. Do not use a fertilizer that contains a weed killer or weed preventer. (Ward Upham)

* Remove fruit from heavily loaded apples and peaches (if the flower buds weren’t killed by frost) to improve fruit size and prevent limbs from breaking. Apples should be spaced every 4 inches and peaches every 6 to 8. Note that is an average spacing. Two fruit can be closer together if the average is correct.

* Remove sucker growth from the base of fruit trees and grape vines.

* Remove water sprout growth from fruit trees. Water sprouts grow straight up.

* "Comb" new growth on grape vines so these new shoots hang down for greater exposure to sunlight.

* Continue disease and insect control to prevent fruit damage. (Ward Upham)

There are about a dozen different species of soft scales collectively known as lecanium scale. But life histories are similar enough to treat them as a single entity for the purposes of this article. Normally, damage from lecanium scale is slight with "honeydew" raining down on anything under affected trees. Sooty mold, a fungus that feeds
on the honeydew, can turn branches and leaves black. Branch dieback is possible with large populations. Predators and parasites normally keep lecanium scale under control, but there are times when the population of beneficials is too low to provide immediate control. Unfortunately, later instars and adults are virtually impossible to control with insecticides. Only the crawler stage is susceptible, and the time of crawler emergence varies from year to year.

If you feel insecticides are necessary, target the crawler stage as it migrates from the dead mother's body to the leaves. This usually occurs about the time yucca plants flower. Trapping adults has shown that this week is a good time to apply treatments in Wichita as the crawlers are out. Apply a followup spray in another 10 days. More northern locations may want to wait until the yucca flowers. Registered products include permethrin (numerous trade names) cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray), dinotefuran (Ortho Tree & Shrub Insect Control Ready To Use Granules), carbaryl (Sevin) and malathion. Though too late to apply now, imidacloprid (Bayer Tree and Shrub Insect Control, Bonide Systemic Granules IC) can be applied in the fall. (Ward Upham)

It is now time to “do battle” (I love military metaphors) with that “infamous” of insect pests known as the bagworm (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis). Throughout most of Kansas, bagworm eggs have hatched and the young caterpillars are out-and-about feeding on both broadleaf and evergreen trees and shrubs. Bagworms were first considered a pest of primarily conifers but over the years they have expanded their host range to include a number of broadleaf plants including rose, honeylocust, and flowering plum. I have even seen them “eating chicken wire” at the Sunset Zoo (Manhattan, KS).

At this time of year, what is the best way to deal with bagworm caterpillars and thus prevent them from causing damage? Handpicking any small caterpillars (along with their accompanying bag) and placing them into a container of soapy water will kill them directly. This is highly therapeutic and, if feasible, will quickly remove populations before they can cause substantial plant damage. You should consider having a weekend “bagworm handpicking party” with prizes awarded to those individuals that collect the most bags. For those less interested in the pleasures of handpicking, there are a number of insecticides labeled for use against bagworms including those with the following active ingredients (trade name in parentheses): acephate (Orthene), Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki (Dipel/Thuricide), cyfluthrin (Tempo), lambda-cyhalothrin (Scimitar), trichlorfon (Dylox), indoxacarb (Provaunt), chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn), and spinosad (Conserve). Many of these active ingredients are commercially available and sold under different trade names or generic products. However, several insecticides may not be directly available to homeowners. The key to dealing with bagworms when using insecticides is to make applications early and frequently enough in order to kill the highly susceptible young caterpillars that are feeding aggressively on plant foliage. Older caterpillars that develop later in the season, in the bags, may be 3/4-inches long, and are typically more difficult to kill with insecticides. In addition, females tend to feed less as they prepare for reproduction, which reduces their susceptibility to spray applications and any residues. The bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki is active on young caterpillars; however, the active ingredient must be consumed to be effective, so thorough coverage of all plant parts and frequent applications are required to avoid having to deal with later stages. This compound is sensitive to ultra-violet light degradation and rainfall, which reduces any residual activity. Spinosad is the active ingredient in a number of homeowner products (including Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Leafminer Spray; Captain Jack’s DeadBug Brew; and Monterey Garden Insect Spray) and works by contact and ingestion (stomach poison); however, it is most effective when ingested and it can be used against older or larger bagworm caterpillars. Cyfluthrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, trichlorfon, chlorantraniliprole, and indoxacarb may be used against both the young and the older caterpillars. However, thorough coverage of all plant parts, especially the tops of trees and shrubs, where bagworms commonly start feeding, and frequent applications are required.

The reason why multiple applications will be needed when bagworms are first detected is because bagworms “blow in” (called ‘ballooning’) from neighboring plants. If left unchecked, bagworms can cause significant
damage, thus ruining the aesthetic quality of plants. In addition, they may actually kill plants, especially evergreens since they don’t usually produce another flush of growth, and newly transplanted small plants. If you have any questions regarding the management of bagworms, contact your county horticultural agent, or university-based or state extension entomologist. (Raymond Cloyd)

Contributors: Raymond Cloyd, Entomologist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Summer storms may cause serious tree damage. Often you will have to decide whether a tree can be saved or not. Here is a checklist on care of a storm-damaged landscape.

1. Be safe: Check for downed power lines or hanging branches. Don't venture under the tree until it is safe. If large limbs are hanging precariously, a certified arborist has the tools,training and knowledge to do the work safely.

2. Cleanup: Remove debris so you don't trip over it.

3. Decide whether it is feasible to save a tree. If the bark has been split so the cambium is exposed or the main trunk split, the tree probably will not survive and should be removed. If there are so many broken limbs that the tree’s form is destroyed, replacement is the best option.Topping, where all the main branches are cut and there are only stubs left, is not a recommended pruning procedure. Though new branches will normally arise from the stubs, they are not as firmly attached as the original branches and more likely to break in subsequent storms. Also, the tree must use a lot of energy to develop new branches, leaving less to fight off diseases and insect attacks. Often, the topped tree's life is shortened.

4. Prune broken branches to the next larger branch or to the trunk. If cutting back to the trunk, do not cut flush with the trunk but rather at the collar area between the branch and the trunk. Cutting flush with the trunk leaves a much larger wound than cutting at the collar and takes longer to heal. Middle-aged or younger vigorous trees can have up to one-third of the crown removed and still make a surprisingly swift comeback.

5. Take large limbs off in stages. If you try to take off a large limb in one cut, it will often break before the cut is finished and strip bark from the tree. Instead, first make a cut about 15 inches from the trunk. Start from the bottom and cut one-third of the way up through the limb. Make the second cut from the top down but start 2 inches further away from the trunk than the first. The branch will break away as you make the second cut. The third cut, made at the collar area,removes the stub that is left. Note: Pruning can be dangerous. Consider hiring a trained arborist to do major work such as this. Also, a good arborist knows how to prune trees so that storm breakage is less likely to occur. Preventing damage is better than trying to fix it once it has happened.

The Arbor Day Foundation maintains an excellent Web site that contains detailed information. The URL is: http://www.arborday.org/media/stormindex.cfm (Ward Upham)

Various parts of the state have had high winds, excessive rainfall and hail. This column deals with what can be done to help our gardens recover.

Heavy rain: The force of rainfall pounding on the soil can result in a thick crust that prevents seed emergence and partially blocks oxygen from reaching roots. A light scraping after the soil surface has dried is all that is needed to correct these problems. Be careful of deep tilling as it may damage young, tender roots.

Standing water: Standing water cuts off oxygen to the roots, which can result in plant damage if it doesn’t drain quickly enough. Most plants can withstand 24 hours of standing water without harm. Hot, sunny weather can make a bad situation worse by the water becoming hot enough to“cook” the plants. There isn’t much that can be done about this unless a channel can be cut to allow the water to drain.

Hail damage: Plants should recover quickly as long as the leaves only were damaged by the hail as leaves regenerate quickly. The situation becomes much more serious if the stems and fruit were damaged. The plant can recover from a few bruises but if it looks like the plants were mowed down by a weed whip, replanting is in order.

Leaning plants: Either wind or water can cause plants to lean. They should start to straighten after a few days. Don’t try to bend them back as they often break easily. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that thrives in the cooler spring temperatures but dies out in the summer. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid- to late-summer.

At this point there is no control for little barley other than a glyphosate product such as Roundup. However, Roundup will kill whatever it hits and cannot be used in a lawn situation. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled for lawn situations is Surflan. Monterey Lawn and Garden also sell it under the name of Weed Impede. Surflan can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue grown in warm-season areas. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide in September. (Ward Upham)

Modern annual flowers have been bred to flower early and over a long period of time. They are not as easily thrown off flowering by high nitrogen levels as vegetables are. As a matter of fact, providing nitrogen through the growing season (sidedressing) can help maintain an effective flower display for warm-season flowers.

Apply a high nitrogen sidedressing four to six weeks after flowers have been set out. Additional fertilizations every three to four weeks can be helpful during a rainy summer, or if flower beds are irrigated. Common sources of nitrogen-only fertilizers include nitrate of soda, urea, and ammonium sulfate. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains primarily, but not exclusively, nitrogen. Use only one of the listed fertilizers and apply at the rate given below.

If you cannot find the above materials, you can use a lawn fertilizer that is about 30 percent nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number in the set of three) and apply it at the rate of 3 ounces (3/8cup) per 100 square feet. Do not use a fertilizer that contains a weed killer or weed preventer. (Ward Upham)

The symptoms of iris leaf scorch are distinctive in that the leaves burn back from the tips and turn a tannish to brownish color. The center leaves of the fan are affected first. Leaf scorch differs from iris leaf spot in that the color is uniform rather than being concentrated in spots that eventually may coalesce. However, both conditions may be present at the same time.

Another distinctive symptom is the loss of roots on affected plants. Surprisingly, rhizomes are not affected. Though iris leaf scorch may occur at any time during the growing season, it is most common in early summer, and we are seeing a significant amount of it now. Fortunately, the disease does not seem to spread easily. Completely healthy plants are often right next to scorched ones.

So, what do we do about it? There was a study done a number of years ago that identified the causal organism as a mycoplasma and showed that subjecting rhizomes from scorched plants to 104 degrees F for 3 to 4 days cured the problem. However, I can’t locate a copy of the study, so I am hesitant to recommend it without reservation. Another recommendation I have seen is to give the rhizomes the “hot asphalt treatment.” This consists of digging the rhizomes and placing them on asphalt in the sun to let them cure for a week. Really, I’m not making this up. A third option suggested by a University of Nebraska publication is to lift affected plants and store them in a dry, cool place until replanting in early August. This is one of those situations where you must choose which option is the most appealing, and run with it. (Ward Upham)

One of the most important clues in determining the health of your trees is the amount of new growth that tree produces. A healthy tree should have a minimum of 4 to 6 inches of new growth each year. Check branches with the tips in the open and not shaded by the tree itself. Anything less than 4 inches on the majority of branches suggests the tree is under a great deal of stress.

So, how do you tell where the new growth stops? Look for a color change in the stem. New growth is often greener than that from the previous year. There is also often an area of what looks like compressed growth where growth transitions from one year to the next. Lastly, look at leaf attachment. Leaves are only produced on current seasons’ growth. Therefore, new growth stops where leaves are no longer attached directly to the twig but to side branches. However, pay attention as leaves may be appear to be attached directly to last year’s growth but are actually borne on short spurs. If you look closely, you can tell the difference.

All this clue tells you is whether a tree is under stress or not. It does not tell you what is causing poor growth. This year, the most common cause by far is environmental stress caused by the warm, dry winter of 2011-2012 and the drought and hot summer temperatures in 2011 and 2012. Also, this last winter was cold and very windy causing a great deal of winter damage.

Stress is cumulative. In other words, trees may not have completely recovered from stressful conditions that occurred several years ago. The accumulating stress may have damaged root systems. In some cases, root systems were damaged enough that those trees may struggle as we enter summer. Though the roots were able to keep up with moisture demands during the cooler spring weather, they may not be able to as temperatures rise. Such trees may suddenly collapse and die or slough off branches they can no longer support. If possible, water to a depth of 12 inches every couple of weeks we do not receive rain in order to avoid further stress. (Ward Upham)

Although carpenter bees look much like bumblebees, they are easy to identify if you know what to look for. Bumblebees have hairy abdomens that are usually yellow and black. Carpenter bees’ abdomens are shiny blue-black. Carpenter bees are solitary (do not form colonies) and are nonaggressive unless provoked. Only the female possesses a stinger. The male may act aggressive but is harmless.

Carpenter bees get their name from the ability of the female to bore into wood. Holes are about a half-inch in diameter and may be 6 inches deep. The female then builds six to eight cells off the main tunnel and lays an egg in each. Developing larvae feed off of "bee bread" (pollen and nectar) regurgitated by the female bee. Larvae become adults by late August and September, but do not emerge until the following spring.

Individual holes may not cause much damage, but cumulative effects of numbers of bees can weaken structures. Painting wood surfaces can make them less attractive to bees. Stains seem to have little effect. Insecticides, such as Sevin, can be used to treat openings. Sprays and dusts are both effective but sprays may only last for 1 to 2 weeks and require retreatment. Dusts are most easily applied with a puffer duster. It is best to treat near sundown when the bees have returned to their tunnel. (Ward Upham)

This insect has been skeletonizing rose leaves in the Kansas City area. This is not a caterpillar but is the larva of a sawfly. Close examination of this small (½ inch) larva will reveal very fine, hair-like spines in clusters.

Young larvae will remove the green layer of a leaf leaving behind a clear material. As the larvae mature, they make holes in the leaf and eventually may consume all of the leaf but the major veins.

Since these insects are not caterpillars (larvae of moths or butterflies), BT, found in Dipel and Thuricide will not be an effective treatment. However, a strong jet of water will dislodge the slugs and make it difficult for them to return to the plant. Other effective treatments include insecticidal soap, horticultural oils, spinosad (Fertilome Borer Bagworm, Leafminer and TentCaterpillar Spray or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew) and permethrin (various trade names). (Ward Upham)

We are seeing a high number of oak galls this year, especially vein pocket gall on pin oak leaves.Vein pocket gall causes abnormal swelling of the leaf near the veins. Actually, there are hundreds of different types of galls, each of which is caused by a specific insect. Insects that can cause different galls on oaks include tiny, non-stinging wasps and flies which cause abnormal growths to develop on the leaves, twigs or branches of oak trees. There are even some mites that can cause galls. These galls can include growths that are round, spiny, flattened, elongated or star-shaped. Galls form in response to a chemical that the insect or mite injects into the plant tissue. Eggs laid by a mature female hatch into legless grubs around which the gall forms. The larvae feed, develop, and pupate inside these galls. The adults may emerge either the same season or may overwinter inside the gall depending on the life history of that specific insect.

Generally, these gall insects do not cause significant damage to their hosts, though some of the leaf galls can cause enough deformity to make a tree unsightly. Also, severe infestations of twig galls can cause twig dieback or, rarely, tree death. However, just because a twig is covered with galls does not mean it is dead. I have seen twigs that looked like a solid mass of galls leaf out in the spring.

Insecticide sprays applied when galls are noticed are ineffective because damage has already occurred. Also, larvae are unaffected because of the protection afforded by the gall. Insecticide sprays can kill emerging adult wasps and flies, but long emergence periods and short residuals of most contact insecticides make this impractical. Stem and twig galls can be pruned if this is deemed to be practical and necessary. Fortunately, natural predators and parasites usually bring these insects under control given a year or two. Therefore, the best option is usually to do nothing. (Ward Upham)