Category: Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

9/1/2017

With all the concern about Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), many people may assume that any ash tree with problems is being attacked by EAB. However, EAB has only been confirmed in Atchison, Doniphan, Douglas, Jefferson, Johnson, Leavenworth, Shawnee & Wyandotte counties. One of the other problems we see with ash is Mycosphaerella Leafspot. Though this disease looks serious, it is not.

Mycosphaerella leaf spot causes small, brown spots that enlarge to become blotches and may result in early leaf drop. Defoliation this late in the growing season will not hurt the health of the tree. Therefore, because this disease appears sporadically and tree health is not harmed, we do not recommend treatment. Furthermore, treatment would have to be preventative and applied before the disease had infected the leaves. Applying a fungicide now would have no effect. (Ward Upham)

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 34

8/23/2016

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Turfgrass:
Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

September is almost here and that means it is prime time to fertilize your tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass lawns. If you could only fertilize your cool-season grasses once per year, this would be the best time to do it.

These grasses are entering their fall growth cycle as days shorten and temperatures moderate (especially at night). Cool-season grasses naturally thicken up in the fall by tillering (forming new shoots at the base of existing plants) and, for bluegrass, spreading by underground stems called rhizomes. Consequently, September is the most important time to fertilize these grasses.

Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. The settings recommended on lawn fertilizer bags usually result in about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. We recommend a quick-release source of nitrogen at this time. Most fertilizers sold in garden centers and department stores contain either quick-release nitrogen or a mixture of quick- and slow-release. Usually only lawn fertilizers recommended for summer use contain slow-release nitrogen. Any of the others should be quick-release.

The second most important fertilization of cool-season grasses also occurs during the fall. A November fertilizer application will help the grass green up earlier next spring and provide the nutrients needed until summer. It also should be quick-release applied at the rate of 1-pound actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Common Smut on Sweet Corn

Smut (Ustilago maydis) is a fungal disease of corn that may infect leaves, stems, tassels or ears though infections on ears are the most obvious. Immature galls are white and spongy but become brown with dark powdery spores with maturity. Leaf galls remain small but those on the ears or stems can become rather large and will release large numbers of spores when they rupture. This disease is likely to be most severe on plants injured by hail, cultivation or insects and tends to be worse on soils that have had heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer or manure. Also anything that slows growth such as hot, dry weather or cool, wet weather when the plants are young can result in more infections.

Immature smut galls are considered an edible delicacy known as cuitlacoche in Mexico. They are a high value crop for some growers in the northeast U.S. who sell them to Mexican restaurants.

There is no chemical control for this disease. Crop rotation and a balanced fertilizer program can help minimize this disease. Remove and destroy galls from infected plants before they rupture. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Dividing Daylilies

Daylilies need to be divided every three to four years to maintain vigor. Though they may be divided in early spring before growth starts, it is more common to divide them at this time of year. Many gardeners cut back the tops to about half their original height to make plants easier to handle.

Daylilies have a very tough root system that can make them difficult to divide while in place. Dividing in place is practical if it hasn’t been long since the last division. In such cases, a spading fork can be used to peel fans from the existing clump. If the plants have been in place longer and are well grown together, it is more practical to divide them after the entire clump has been dug.

Use a spade to lift the entire clump out of the ground. Although it is possible to cut the clump apart with a sharp spade, you'll save more roots by using two spading forks back-to-back to divide the clump into sections. Each section should be about the size of a head of cauliflower. An easier method involves using a stream of water from a garden hose to wash the soil from the clump, and then rolling the clump back and forth until the individual divisions separate. Space divisions 24 to 30 inches apart, and set each at its original depth. The number of flowers will be reduced the first year after division but will return to normal until the plants need to be
divided again. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Likely Too Late to Spray for Bagworms

Bagworms can cause a great deal of damage during the last few weeks of feeding, and gardeners may be tempted to spray for them now. But late-August sprays are often totally ineffective because the insects have usually stopped feeding. Never spray in August unless the insects are actively feeding. Handpicking is still possible if there are not so many bags it becomes impractical. Understanding the life cycle of this moth will explain why spraying now is not recommended and help plan effective control measures.

In Kansas, bagworms normally finish feeding and close their bags during mid-August. After that, insecticides are ineffective because they cannot reach the pest.

Bagworms are unusual because they use an uncommon form of reproduction called paedogenesis in which the female larva reproduces. The female larva never pupates, but produces mature sexual organs during the last larval instar. She releases a sex hormone that attracts the male who does pupate and emerges as a flying moth. The male flies to the female's bag and mates with her while she remains in the bag. After mating, the female's body fills with eggs. She will eventually die inside the bag, and her body will become a dried, mummified egg case that will protect the eggs during the winter. Each female case normally contains 300 to 1,000 eggs. Egg hatch does not occur until the next spring, usually around the end of May in Kansas.

Insecticide sprays are more likely to be effective when the bagworms are small. Even Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel, Thuricide) can be effective on young bagworms. Another organic product, spinosad (Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew; Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray; Monterey Garden Insect Spray), is very effective against both young and more mature bagworms. Other commonly used pesticides include acephate, cyfluthrin, permethrin, malathion and Sevin.

During most years, spraying about June 15 will provide good control. Don't forget that insecticides are not the only means of control. Hand picking and destroying the bags is effective any time when the bags are large enough to be picked. (Ward Upham)

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

With all the concern about Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), many people may assume that any ash tree with problems is being attacked by EAB. However, EAB has only been confirmed in Douglas, Jefferson, Johnson, Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties. One of the other problems we see with ash is Mycosphaerella Leafspot. Though this disease looks serious, it is not.

Mycosphaerella leaf spot causes small, brown spots that enlarge to become blotches and may result in early leaf drop. Defoliation this late in the growing season will not hurt the health of the tree. Therefore, because this disease appears sporadically and tree health is not harmed, we do not recommend treatment. Furthermore, treatment would have to be preventative and applied before the disease had infected the leaves. Applying a fungicide now would have no effect. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Are Crabapples Safe to Eat?

Crabapples are safe to consume as long as you don’t eat too many of them. Actually, the only difference between crabapples and apples is the size of the fruit. By definition, crabapples have fruit that are 2 inches or less in diameter, and apples are more than 2 inches in diameter. By this definition, most of the apples grown from seed will be crabapples. The fruiting apples are grafted.

So, did people ever plant crabapples from seed? Of course they did. Just think of Johnny Appleseed. But those apples were normally used for jelly, applesauce, and cider and not for fresh eating.

There is one other caveat with using crabapples from a tree in the landscape. Make sure the tree hasn't been sprayed as an ornamental with a pesticide that isn't labeled for fruit tree apples. If it has, then the fruit should not be used. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 34

8/25/2015

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Video of the Week:
Overseeding Your Lawn

Turfgrass:
Power Raking and Core-Aeration

September is the optimum time to power rake or core-aerate tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass lawns. These grasses should be coming out of their summer doldrums and beginning to grow more vigorously. This is a good time to consider what we are trying to accomplish with these practices.

Power raking is primarily a thatch control operation. It can be excessively damaging to the turf if not done carefully. For lawns with one-half inch of thatch or less, I don’t recommend power raking but rather core aeration. For those who are unsure what thatch is, it is a springy layer of light-brown organic matter that resembles peat moss and is located above the soil but below the grass foliage. Power raking pulls up an incredible amount of material that then must be dealt with by composting or discarding.

Core-aeration is a much better practice for most lawns. By removing cores of soil, core-aeration relieves compaction, hastens thatch decomposition, and improves water, nutrient, and oxygen movement into the soil profile. This operation should be performed when the soil is just moist enough so that it crumbles easily when worked between the fingers. Enough passes should be made so that the holes are spaced about 2 to 3 inches apart. Ideally, the holes should penetrate 2.5 to 3 inches deep. The cores can be left on the lawn to decompose naturally (a process that usually takes two or three weeks, depending on soil-type), or they can be broken up with a power rake set just low enough to nick the cores, and then dragged with a section of chain-link fence or a steel doormat. The intermingling of soil and thatch is beneficial to the lawn. (Ward Upham)

Turf in Shade

We are often asked, “What’s the best shade grass for Kansas?” The answer is simple but requires explanation. Tall fescue is the best shade grass for Kansas. That does not mean that tall fescue is the best shade grass of all those grown. True fine leaf fescues such as sheep’s fescue, hard fescue, and creeping red fescue are actually better adapted to shade than tall fescue, but they have difficulty surviving Kansas summers. It might be better to say that tall fescue is the best shade grass adapted to Kansas conditions. Although tall fescue is our best shade grass, that does not mean that tall fescue is all that good in the shade. Large trees that produce deep shade will not allow tall fescue to survive over the long term. I say “over the long term” because fall-planted cool-season grasses will often do well under shade trees through the fall and spring when there is less leaf cover and growing conditions are better (cooler and moister) than in the summer. We often see people plant tall fescue in the shade each fall and then wonder what happens the following summer. The answer is stress from multiple fronts. Sunlight that passes through the leaves of trees has had most of the “good” light that drives photosynthesis stripped out. The grass struggles to make the food it needs for survival and growth. When this poor diet is combined with the additional stresses of drought and heat, tall fescue is unable to survive.

So, what should you do if you have too much shade for your turf? You have three choices. Reduce the shade by pruning up the lower branches of your trees so more early and late sun reaches the turf. This is not practical with many trees because it can destroy the desired shape. A second option is to plant a groundcover that is well-adapted to shady sites such as periwinkle or English ivy. Another solution would be to mulch the area under the tree. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Small Peaches

Late frosts that kill peach flowers are common in Kansas. Many areas will not have a full peach crop except for about one in every seven (or more) years. This year has been exceptional, with full fruit crops and excellent peach-growing weather in most areas. However, we have been receiving reports of trees with small peaches. Though small fruit could be due to poor weather (rare this year) or heavy fruit crops (common), there is a third possibility that is often overlooked. That possibility occurs when the top portion of the peach dies and the rootstock puts up new growth.

Peaches, like other fruit plants, must be vegetatively propagated. In other words, you cannot grow fruit from seed and expect the progeny to share the same characteristics as the parent. Therefore, good fruit trees have a top portion called the scion (the good fruiting part) and a bottom portion known as the rootstock. This combination is made by grafting or budding the scion onto the rootstock. Virtually everything above ground will be the scion and everything below ground will be the rootstock. The rootstock may keep the tree smaller, be more disease resistant than the scion, delay bloom or give some other good characteristic to the tree. However, the rootstock normally does not produce good, high quality fruit. Therefore, if the scion dies and the rootstock throws up new growth, the fruit produced will most likely be of poor quality.

How do you tell if the small fruit is due to a rootstock taking over? If the fruit produced is always poor quality, then suspect the rootstock problem. If this is the case, there is no remedy. The tree will not produce good quality fruit regardless of the care given. It would be best to remove and replace the tree. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

Peonies often look a little bedraggled by this time of year and gardeners may want to cut them back. That will not be a problem with this perennial. Peonies are essentially dormant by September 1, even though leaves may still be green. Cut leaves off close to the ground and compost or discard. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Spring Flowering Shrubs

August through September is the time period our spring flowering shrubs set flower buds. Therefore, watering, as needed, at this time can help with next spring’s bloom. Examples of spring flower shrubs include Forsythia, Flowering Quince, Almond, Beautybush, Deutzia, Pyracantha, Lilac, Mock Orange, Cotoneaster, Weigela, Viburnum and Witchhazel. (Ward Upham)

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

With all the concern about Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), many people may assume the trees are being attacked by EAB. However, EAB has only been confirmed in Johnson, Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties.

Mycosphaerella leaf spot causes small, brown spots that enlarge to become blotches and may result in early leaf drop. Though this disease looks serious, it is not. Defoliation this late in the growing season will not hurt the health of the tree. Therefore, because this disease appears sporadically and tree health is not harmed, we do not recommend treatment. Furthermore, treatment would have to be preventative and applied before the disease had infected the leaves. Applying a fungicide now would have no effect. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Fall Webworm

On a return trip to Manhattan Monday, I noted the presence of fall webworms along the roadway --- sometimes one or two in an occasional tree here and there, or (in this instance) numerous web masses. These did not develop “overnight.” Judging by their size, these colonies likely were initiated 4-5 weeks earlier. People may worry about the impact of feeding depredations, but it is minimal. A healthy tree will not be hurt. Probably a more verbally expressed concern is the unsightliness created by the webbing, as well “creepy” clumps of caterpillars within.

A common recommendation is to prune out webbed branches. One must consider the accessibility of web masses --- those beyond reach simply allowed to remain. Pruning might be doable if just a branch or two ---- but possibly unacceptable and disfiguring when trees are heavily infested with web masses.If within reach, consider an implement (of sorts) to “rake out”/remove webbing. And what implement could be more handy (yes, pun intended) than one’s own hand. There is no need to fear the dry webbing and/or dried fecal deposits and squirmy caterpillar within. As webbing is removed, also removed will be the objectionable dead/dry foliage and the fall webworms. Simply dispose of the gathered material. All that is left behind is the leafless (but still living) branch and its’ intact buds which will produce the ensuing year’s foliage. (Bob Bauernfeind)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Bob Bauernfeind, Extension Entomologist

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2014 Horticulture Newsletter, No. 35

9/2/2014

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Video of the Week:
Tips on Harvesting Pears

Turfgrass:
Little Barley in Lawns

Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid- to late-summer.

So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is the time to control it for next year. The best control for little barley is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding now can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. However, if you do not plan to overseed, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed.

The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is Surflan. It is also sold under the name of Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Surflan can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr), is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide now and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Asparagus and Rhubarb in the Autumn Season

Harvest is long past but now is the time asparagus and rhubarb plants build up needed reserves for the next year. Be sure to water during dry weather and keep plants weed free. Foliage should be left until all green is gone. It can then be removed or left for the winter to help collect snow. (Ward Upham)

Weird Squash

Occasionally we receive a call from someone who has a squash (or cucumber or melon) that just doesn’t look like what was supposedly planted. They often wish to know if that fruit had cross-pollinated with another vegetable close by.

In such cases, the gardener is assuming that cross-pollination will affect the fruit. Such is not the case. The characteristics of the fruit is determined by the mother plant and is not affected by cross-pollination. However, there will be a problem if seed is saved for the next year from a flower that was cross-pollinated. All bets are off on what you will get if that happens.

So, how do we end up with this weird vegetable? Though it could be that the gardener had forgotten exactly what he planted, more likely is that the seed he bought had been accidentally cross-pollinated before packaging. Another possibility is that it came from seed that came from fruit that had rotted in the garden the previous year. Regardless, don’t worry about planting different cultivars of squash or cucumbers or melons close to one another. Though cross-pollination sometimes occurs, the fruit will not be affected. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Storing Apples

You can enjoy apples from January to June – with the right conditions. Some apple cultivars can be stored for longer periods than others. Some cultivars will stay in firm, crisp condition for about 6 to 8 months with good storage conditions. The approximate length of time cultivars will keep well under refrigerated conditions are as follows:

        Wealthy: 60 days
        Paulared: 90 days
        Gala: 120 days
        Jonathan: 120 days
        Grimes Golden: 120 days
        Golden Delicious: 150 days
        Empire:150 days
        Delicious: 160 days
        Braeburn: 180 days
        Idared: 200 days
        Rome Beauty: 220 days
        Winesap: 220 days
        Fuji: 240 days
        Granny Smith: 240 days
        Arkansas Black: 240 days

The condition of the apples and how they are stored will strongly influence the storage period. Some guidelines to help assure good quality and maximum storage life of apples include:

        * Store only the best quality.
        * Pick as they are first maturing.
        * Avoid skin breaks, disease or insect damage, and bruises on individual fruit.
        * Store in a plastic bag to help retain moisture in the apples. The bag should have a few small holes for air exchange. The bags of apples may be stored in boxes to prevent bruising if they must be stacked or moved from time to time.
        * Refrigerate at about 35 degrees F. An extra refrigerator works well.
        * Sort about every 30 to 40 days to remove fruit that may be beginning to rot. (Ward Upham(-

Ornamentals:
Trees Coloring Early

We are seeing a number of trees, especially maples, that are showing fall colors early. Often it is not the whole tree but sections. As a rule, we consider early coloration as bad news as it often means the tree is under a great deal of stress. However, this year, many of the trees showing coloration look perfectly healthy. We think what has happened is the trees have come through a cooler than normal early summer and never hardened off to hot temperatures. Also, many areas are very dry including some that had heavy rains in June. Now that the weather has changed, the tree is simply entering dormancy early.

The tree has had plenty of time to store the energy reserves it needs to survive the winter. So, do we need to do anything? Yes, we do. Keep the soil moist as many trees have had root systems damaged from the last couple of years. We need to give that root system time to recover. This is especially important for areas that are still experiencing drought or have had so much rain earlier in the summer that soils were saturated for a period of time. Lack of oxygen from saturated soils is just as damaging to a root system as lack of water. (Ward Upham)

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

We are now seeing this disease in the Emporia and Manhattan areas. With all the concern about Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), many people may assume the trees are being attacked by EAB. However, EAB has only been confirmed in Johnson, Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties.

Mycosphaerella leaf spot causes small, brown spots that enlarge to become blotches and may result in early leaf drop. Though this disease looks serious, it is not. Defoliation this late in the growing season will not hurt the health of the tree. Therefore, because this disease appears sporadically and tree health is not harmed, we do not recommend treatment. Furthermore, treatment would have to be preventative and applied before the disease had infected the leaves. Applying a fungicide now would have no effect. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Emerald Ash Borer Found in Leavenworth County

Leavenworth County has been added to the Emerald Ash Borer quarantine already in place in Johnson and Wyandotte counties in Kansas. The following information is taken directly from the Kansas Department of Agriculture website at http://agriculture.ks.gov/divisions-programs/plant-protect-weed-control/emerald-ash-borer .

Leavenworth County EAB Find Background - On July 16, 2014, an adult EAB was caught on a girdled tree trap placed on K-5 southeast of Lansing by the Kansas Department of Agriculture (KDA) in cooperation with the Kansas Department of Transportation (KDOT) and the Kansas Forest Service (KFS). A second EAB was also caught on a second girdled trap tree at Kenneth W. Bernard Community Park by KDA in cooperation with the City of Lansing and the KFS. Regulatory officials with the USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service’s Plant Protection and Quarantine (USDA-APHIS-PPQ) confirmed the presence of EAB on July 17, 2014.

Immediately after confirmation by USDA, Kansas expanded an emergency intrastate quarantine, currently in place in Wyandotte and Johnson counties, to include Leavenworth County to prevent further spread of EAB in Kansas.

The quarantine applies to any corporation, company, society, association, partnership, governmental agency, and any individual or combination of individuals. It prohibits movement of regulated items from the quarantined area, except under specific conditions established in the

Permanent EAB Quarantine for Wyandotte and Johnson County
Temporary EAB Quarantine for Leavenworth County

Regulated items under quarantine include the following:
* The emerald ash borer, (Agrilus planipennis [Coleoptera: Buprestidae]), in any living stage of development;
* Firewood of all hardwood (non-coniferous) species;
* Nursery stock of the genus Fraxinus (Ash);
* Green lumber of the genus Fraxinus (Ash);
* Other material living, dead, cut, or fallen, including logs, stumps, roots, branches, and composted and uncomposted chips of the genus Fraxinus (Ash);

Any other article, product, or means of conveyance that an inspector determines presents a risk of spreading emerald ash borer and notifies the person in possession of the article, product, or means of conveyance that it is subject to the restrictions of the regulations.

If you suspect emerald ash borer on your property please call 785-862-2180 or e-mail your name, address, phone number and pictures of the suspect tree to ppwc@kda.ks.gov. For answers to common questions, check out our Kansas Emerald Ash Borer Frequently Asked Questions and Do I Have Emerald Ash Borer? (Ward Upham)

Fall Armyworms on Turf

The last time we had a significant outbreak of fall armyworm on turf was August, 2000. Armyworms are so-called because they invade fields or landscapes as large groups and can cause a lawn to turn brown seemingly overnight.

Young worms are ½ to 3/4 inch long. Mature ones are 1 ½ inches long. Body color may vary from green to almost black but light stripes will be visible along the length of the body. Look for a whitish inverted "Y" on the top of the black head. It normally takes 2 to 3 weeks to progress from egg to pupa. The adult is a moth.

Armyworm damage can resemble drought damage but close inspection of the turf will reveal the larvae. Look for active feeding during early morning or evening hours or on cloudy days. Larvae feed on foliage and the resulting dehydration causes to turf to quickly brown. Normally, armyworm damage does not kill established turf.

Carbaryl (Sevin), acephate (Orthene, Acephate), spinosad (Conserve; Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray) and other insecticides are effective caterpillar killers. Treat in late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. Do not mow for 3 days after treatment. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 34

Turfgrass:
Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

Vegetables:
Common Smut on Sweet Corn

Flowers:
Dividing Daylilies

Pests:
Likely Too Late to Spray for Bagworms

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Miscellaneous:
Are Crabapples Safe to Eat?

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 34

Video of the Week:
Overseeding Your Lawn

Turfgrass:
Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Turf in Shade

Fruit:
Small Peaches

Flowers:
Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:
Spring Flowering Shrubs

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Pests:
Fall Webworm

2014 Horticulture Newsletter, No. 35

Video of the Week:
Tips on Harvesting Pears

Turfgrass:
Little Barley in Lawns

Vegetables:
Asparagus and Rhubarb in the Autumn Season

Weird Squash

Fruit:
Storing Apples

Ornamentals:
Trees Coloring Early

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Pests:
Emerald Ash Borer Found in Leavenworth County

Fall Armyworms on Turf

Authors

Subscribe to the newsletter by entering your e-mail and clicking the link below

Archives

Categories

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 34

Turfgrass:Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

Vegetables:Common Smut on Sweet Corn

Flowers:Dividing Daylilies

Pests:Likely Too Late to Spray for Bagworms

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Miscellaneous:Are Crabapples Safe to Eat?

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 34

Video of the Week:Overseeding Your Lawn

Turfgrass:Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Turf in Shade

Fruit:Small Peaches

Flowers:Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:Spring Flowering Shrubs

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Pests:Fall Webworm

2014 Horticulture Newsletter, No. 35

Video of the Week: Tips on Harvesting Pears

Turfgrass:Little Barley in Lawns

Vegetables:Asparagus and Rhubarb in the Autumn Season

Weird Squash

Fruit:Storing Apples

Ornamentals:Trees Coloring Early

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Pests:Emerald Ash Borer Found in Leavenworth County

Fall Armyworms on Turf

Authors

Subscribe to the newsletter by entering your e-mail and clicking the link below

Archives

Categories

Turfgrass:
Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

Vegetables:
Common Smut on Sweet Corn

Flowers:
Dividing Daylilies

Pests:
Likely Too Late to Spray for Bagworms

Miscellaneous:
Are Crabapples Safe to Eat?

Video of the Week:
Overseeding Your Lawn

Turfgrass:
Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Fruit:
Small Peaches

Flowers:
Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:
Spring Flowering Shrubs

Pests:
Fall Webworm

Video of the Week:
Tips on Harvesting Pears

Turfgrass:
Little Barley in Lawns

Vegetables:
Asparagus and Rhubarb in the Autumn Season

Fruit:
Storing Apples

Ornamentals:
Trees Coloring Early

Pests:
Emerald Ash Borer Found in Leavenworth County