Video of the Week:
Poison Ivy
Turfgrass:
Little Barley in Lawns
Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that thrives in the cooler spring temperatures but dies out in the summer. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid- to late-summer.
At this point there is no control for little barley other than a glyphosate product such as Roundup. However, Roundup will kill whatever it hits and cannot be used in a lawn situation. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled for lawn situations is Surflan. Monterey Lawn and Garden also sell it under the name of Weed Impede. Surflan can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue grown in warm-season areas. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide in September. (Ward Upham)
At this point there is no control for little barley other than a glyphosate product such as Roundup. However, Roundup will kill whatever it hits and cannot be used in a lawn situation. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled for lawn situations is Surflan. Monterey Lawn and Garden also sell it under the name of Weed Impede. Surflan can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue grown in warm-season areas. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide in September. (Ward Upham)
Flowers:
Sidedressing Annual Flowers
Modern annual flowers have been bred to flower early and over a long period of time. They are not as easily thrown off flowering by high nitrogen levels as vegetables are. As a matter of fact, providing nitrogen through the growing season (sidedressing) can help maintain an effective flower display for warm-season flowers.
Apply a high nitrogen sidedressing four to six weeks after flowers have been set out. Additional fertilizations every three to four weeks can be helpful during a rainy summer, or if flower beds are irrigated. Common sources of nitrogen-only fertilizers include nitrate of soda, urea, and ammonium sulfate. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains primarily, but not exclusively, nitrogen. Use only one of the listed fertilizers and apply at the rate given below.
Apply a high nitrogen sidedressing four to six weeks after flowers have been set out. Additional fertilizations every three to four weeks can be helpful during a rainy summer, or if flower beds are irrigated. Common sources of nitrogen-only fertilizers include nitrate of soda, urea, and ammonium sulfate. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains primarily, but not exclusively, nitrogen. Use only one of the listed fertilizers and apply at the rate given below.
Nitrate of soda (16-0-0): Apply 1/3 pound (.75 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
Blood Meal (12-1.5-.6): Apply 7 ounces (7/8 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
Urea (46-0-0): Apply 2 ounces (1/4 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0): Apply 4 ounces (½ cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
If you cannot find the above materials, you can use a lawn fertilizer that is about 30 percent nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number in the set of three) and apply it at the rate of 3 ounces (3/8cup) per 100 square feet. Do not use a fertilizer that contains a weed killer or weed preventer. (Ward Upham)
Iris Leaf Scorch
The symptoms of iris leaf scorch are distinctive in that the leaves burn back from the tips and turn a tannish to brownish color. The center leaves of the fan are affected first. Leaf scorch differs from iris leaf spot in that the color is uniform rather than being concentrated in spots that eventually may coalesce. However, both conditions may be present at the same time.
Another distinctive symptom is the loss of roots on affected plants. Surprisingly, rhizomes are not affected. Though iris leaf scorch may occur at any time during the growing season, it is most common in early summer, and we are seeing a significant amount of it now. Fortunately, the disease does not seem to spread easily. Completely healthy plants are often right next to scorched ones.
So, what do we do about it? There was a study done a number of years ago that identified the causal organism as a mycoplasma and showed that subjecting rhizomes from scorched plants to 104 degrees F for 3 to 4 days cured the problem. However, I can’t locate a copy of the study, so I am hesitant to recommend it without reservation. Another recommendation I have seen is to give the rhizomes the “hot asphalt treatment.” This consists of digging the rhizomes and placing them on asphalt in the sun to let them cure for a week. Really, I’m not making this up. A third option suggested by a University of Nebraska publication is to lift affected plants and store them in a dry, cool place until replanting in early August. This is one of those situations where you must choose which option is the most appealing, and run with it. (Ward Upham)
Another distinctive symptom is the loss of roots on affected plants. Surprisingly, rhizomes are not affected. Though iris leaf scorch may occur at any time during the growing season, it is most common in early summer, and we are seeing a significant amount of it now. Fortunately, the disease does not seem to spread easily. Completely healthy plants are often right next to scorched ones.
So, what do we do about it? There was a study done a number of years ago that identified the causal organism as a mycoplasma and showed that subjecting rhizomes from scorched plants to 104 degrees F for 3 to 4 days cured the problem. However, I can’t locate a copy of the study, so I am hesitant to recommend it without reservation. Another recommendation I have seen is to give the rhizomes the “hot asphalt treatment.” This consists of digging the rhizomes and placing them on asphalt in the sun to let them cure for a week. Really, I’m not making this up. A third option suggested by a University of Nebraska publication is to lift affected plants and store them in a dry, cool place until replanting in early August. This is one of those situations where you must choose which option is the most appealing, and run with it. (Ward Upham)
Ornamentals:
How Healthy is My Tree?
One of the most important clues in determining the health of your trees is the amount of new growth that tree produces. A healthy tree should have a minimum of 4 to 6 inches of new growth each year. Check branches with the tips in the open and not shaded by the tree itself. Anything less than 4 inches on the majority of branches suggests the tree is under a great deal of stress.
So, how do you tell where the new growth stops? Look for a color change in the stem. New growth is often greener than that from the previous year. There is also often an area of what looks like compressed growth where growth transitions from one year to the next. Lastly, look at leaf attachment. Leaves are only produced on current seasons’ growth. Therefore, new growth stops where leaves are no longer attached directly to the twig but to side branches. However, pay attention as leaves may be appear to be attached directly to last year’s growth but are actually borne on short spurs. If you look closely, you can tell the difference.
All this clue tells you is whether a tree is under stress or not. It does not tell you what is causing poor growth. This year, the most common cause by far is environmental stress caused by the warm, dry winter of 2011-2012 and the drought and hot summer temperatures in 2011 and 2012. Also, this last winter was cold and very windy causing a great deal of winter damage.
Stress is cumulative. In other words, trees may not have completely recovered from stressful conditions that occurred several years ago. The accumulating stress may have damaged root systems. In some cases, root systems were damaged enough that those trees may struggle as we enter summer. Though the roots were able to keep up with moisture demands during the cooler spring weather, they may not be able to as temperatures rise. Such trees may suddenly collapse and die or slough off branches they can no longer support. If possible, water to a depth of 12 inches every couple of weeks we do not receive rain in order to avoid further stress. (Ward Upham)
So, how do you tell where the new growth stops? Look for a color change in the stem. New growth is often greener than that from the previous year. There is also often an area of what looks like compressed growth where growth transitions from one year to the next. Lastly, look at leaf attachment. Leaves are only produced on current seasons’ growth. Therefore, new growth stops where leaves are no longer attached directly to the twig but to side branches. However, pay attention as leaves may be appear to be attached directly to last year’s growth but are actually borne on short spurs. If you look closely, you can tell the difference.
All this clue tells you is whether a tree is under stress or not. It does not tell you what is causing poor growth. This year, the most common cause by far is environmental stress caused by the warm, dry winter of 2011-2012 and the drought and hot summer temperatures in 2011 and 2012. Also, this last winter was cold and very windy causing a great deal of winter damage.
Stress is cumulative. In other words, trees may not have completely recovered from stressful conditions that occurred several years ago. The accumulating stress may have damaged root systems. In some cases, root systems were damaged enough that those trees may struggle as we enter summer. Though the roots were able to keep up with moisture demands during the cooler spring weather, they may not be able to as temperatures rise. Such trees may suddenly collapse and die or slough off branches they can no longer support. If possible, water to a depth of 12 inches every couple of weeks we do not receive rain in order to avoid further stress. (Ward Upham)
Pests:
Carpenter Bees
Although carpenter bees look much like bumblebees, they are easy to identify if you know what to look for. Bumblebees have hairy abdomens that are usually yellow and black. Carpenter bees’ abdomens are shiny blue-black. Carpenter bees are solitary (do not form colonies) and are nonaggressive unless provoked. Only the female possesses a stinger. The male may act aggressive but is harmless.
Carpenter bees get their name from the ability of the female to bore into wood. Holes are about a half-inch in diameter and may be 6 inches deep. The female then builds six to eight cells off the main tunnel and lays an egg in each. Developing larvae feed off of "bee bread" (pollen and nectar) regurgitated by the female bee. Larvae become adults by late August and September, but do not emerge until the following spring.
Individual holes may not cause much damage, but cumulative effects of numbers of bees can weaken structures. Painting wood surfaces can make them less attractive to bees. Stains seem to have little effect. Insecticides, such as Sevin, can be used to treat openings. Sprays and dusts are both effective but sprays may only last for 1 to 2 weeks and require retreatment. Dusts are most easily applied with a puffer duster. It is best to treat near sundown when the bees have returned to their tunnel. (Ward Upham)
Carpenter bees get their name from the ability of the female to bore into wood. Holes are about a half-inch in diameter and may be 6 inches deep. The female then builds six to eight cells off the main tunnel and lays an egg in each. Developing larvae feed off of "bee bread" (pollen and nectar) regurgitated by the female bee. Larvae become adults by late August and September, but do not emerge until the following spring.
Individual holes may not cause much damage, but cumulative effects of numbers of bees can weaken structures. Painting wood surfaces can make them less attractive to bees. Stains seem to have little effect. Insecticides, such as Sevin, can be used to treat openings. Sprays and dusts are both effective but sprays may only last for 1 to 2 weeks and require retreatment. Dusts are most easily applied with a puffer duster. It is best to treat near sundown when the bees have returned to their tunnel. (Ward Upham)
Bristly Rose Slug
This insect has been skeletonizing rose leaves in the Kansas City area. This is not a caterpillar but is the larva of a sawfly. Close examination of this small (½ inch) larva will reveal very fine, hair-like spines in clusters.
Young larvae will remove the green layer of a leaf leaving behind a clear material. As the larvae mature, they make holes in the leaf and eventually may consume all of the leaf but the major veins.
Since these insects are not caterpillars (larvae of moths or butterflies), BT, found in Dipel and Thuricide will not be an effective treatment. However, a strong jet of water will dislodge the slugs and make it difficult for them to return to the plant. Other effective treatments include insecticidal soap, horticultural oils, spinosad (Fertilome Borer Bagworm, Leafminer and TentCaterpillar Spray or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew) and permethrin (various trade names). (Ward Upham)
Young larvae will remove the green layer of a leaf leaving behind a clear material. As the larvae mature, they make holes in the leaf and eventually may consume all of the leaf but the major veins.
Since these insects are not caterpillars (larvae of moths or butterflies), BT, found in Dipel and Thuricide will not be an effective treatment. However, a strong jet of water will dislodge the slugs and make it difficult for them to return to the plant. Other effective treatments include insecticidal soap, horticultural oils, spinosad (Fertilome Borer Bagworm, Leafminer and TentCaterpillar Spray or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew) and permethrin (various trade names). (Ward Upham)
Oak Vein Galls
We are seeing a high number of oak galls this year, especially vein pocket gall on pin oak leaves.Vein pocket gall causes abnormal swelling of the leaf near the veins. Actually, there are hundreds of different types of galls, each of which is caused by a specific insect. Insects that can cause different galls on oaks include tiny, non-stinging wasps and flies which cause abnormal growths to develop on the leaves, twigs or branches of oak trees. There are even some mites that can cause galls. These galls can include growths that are round, spiny, flattened, elongated or star-shaped. Galls form in response to a chemical that the insect or mite injects into the plant tissue. Eggs laid by a mature female hatch into legless grubs around which the gall forms. The larvae feed, develop, and pupate inside these galls. The adults may emerge either the same season or may overwinter inside the gall depending on the life history of that specific insect.
Generally, these gall insects do not cause significant damage to their hosts, though some of the leaf galls can cause enough deformity to make a tree unsightly. Also, severe infestations of twig galls can cause twig dieback or, rarely, tree death. However, just because a twig is covered with galls does not mean it is dead. I have seen twigs that looked like a solid mass of galls leaf out in the spring.
Insecticide sprays applied when galls are noticed are ineffective because damage has already occurred. Also, larvae are unaffected because of the protection afforded by the gall. Insecticide sprays can kill emerging adult wasps and flies, but long emergence periods and short residuals of most contact insecticides make this impractical. Stem and twig galls can be pruned if this is deemed to be practical and necessary. Fortunately, natural predators and parasites usually bring these insects under control given a year or two. Therefore, the best option is usually to do nothing. (Ward Upham)
Generally, these gall insects do not cause significant damage to their hosts, though some of the leaf galls can cause enough deformity to make a tree unsightly. Also, severe infestations of twig galls can cause twig dieback or, rarely, tree death. However, just because a twig is covered with galls does not mean it is dead. I have seen twigs that looked like a solid mass of galls leaf out in the spring.
Insecticide sprays applied when galls are noticed are ineffective because damage has already occurred. Also, larvae are unaffected because of the protection afforded by the gall. Insecticide sprays can kill emerging adult wasps and flies, but long emergence periods and short residuals of most contact insecticides make this impractical. Stem and twig galls can be pruned if this is deemed to be practical and necessary. Fortunately, natural predators and parasites usually bring these insects under control given a year or two. Therefore, the best option is usually to do nothing. (Ward Upham)
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