July 26            K-State Bedding Plant Field Day, Olathe  http://www.eventbrite.com/e/k-state-flower-field-day-tickets-26105824223
 
July 30            K-State Research & Extension Center Horticulture Field Day, Olathe http://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/horticulture-field-day.html
 
August 4         Kansas Turfgrass Field Day, Manhattan https://turffieldday.eventbrite.com

Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing season. But many people dislike both these characteristics. Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive.
 
Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the tall fescue portion of the lawn is green. Bermuda is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun.
 
So, how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Therefore, you will need to reseed treated areas. In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.
 
Spray about the middle of July (or when the bermuda is growing well). Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two weeks and scalp the lawn (mow as low as possible and remove clippings.) This will prevent dead grass from covering any bermuda that starts to recover. Wait another two weeks and spray again with glyphosate if there is any green. Wait two more weeks and reseed. (Ward Upham)

Heavy fruit loads this season may cause limbs to break if they are not given extra support. As fruits increase in size, the additional weight on individual branches may be substantial. One-inch thick boards can be used to prop up limbs.
 
Here's how. Cut a "V" on the top edge of the board on which the limb will rest so that it doesn't slip off. Long limbs that are heavily loaded with fruit may need a prop in the center and another to support the outer part of the limb. A plastic belt-like material that is about 2 inches wide may also be used. This can be tied to a heavily loaded limb, then to a large diameter limb above for support. Where a large limb is used for support, it is good to have it supporting limbs on opposite sides so the weight is balanced.
 
Another solution is to wrap a tape or belt material around the tree in a spiral to prevent limbs from bending until they break. Heavy twine may be used, but it should be removed when the fruit is picked or soon after so it does not cut into the bark on the limb.
 
Check trees regularly, up to two times a week during the last month the fruit are maturing. You will find additional limbs that need support. Tending to the heavily loaded tree limbs will reduce the number of broken limbs and help keep a balance of the fruiting wood in your tree. Next year, prune long, weak branches back to a side branch to help prevent this problem. (Ward Upham)

The extreme heat and drought can cause some rarely seen phenomenon. Dennis Patton, our Horticulture Agent in Johnson County has had several reports of apparently sound branches breaking out of what appeared to be a healthy trees (primarily oaks) recently. There was an article written by Richard Harris, the author of a standard Arboriculture text that describes this phenomenon. His observations are summarized below.
 
This type of damage has been reported on both landscape and forest trees. The landscape trees were found in irrigated and unirrigated situations.
 
These limbs can be huge; up to 3 feet in diameter. Most often the break occurs 3 to 12 feet from where the branch attaches though at times the branch may break at the attachment. Though breaks do occur in decayed wood, often the broken branch shows no sign of weakness or decay.

No firm explanation of a cause has been established though buildup of pressure within the branch has been noted.  In some cases, the branch seems to explode and then drop. The reason for this pressure buildup is unclear though several ideas have been put forth.
 
Certain species are more susceptible to this condition including oaks, poplars, cottonwood, willows, ash, sycamore and Japanese Pagodatree. You will find more detail in Richard Harris’ article at  http://artistictreeworks.com/harris.html
 
Be cautious around these trees during hot, calm weather. Hopefully, the cooler weather we had last week will reduce the changes of this happening. (Ward Upham)

Hornworms are the largest larval insect commonly seen in the garden. Though usually seen on tomato, they can also attack eggplant, pepper, and potato.
 
The larval stage of this insect is a 3 ½- to 4-inch long pale green caterpillar with five pair of prolegs and a horn on the last segment. The two most common hornworms are the tobacco hornworm (seven diagonal white stripes and, most commonly, a red horn) and the tomato hornworm (v-shaped markings with a horn that is often blue or black).
 
The adult of the tobacco hornworm is the Carolina sphinx moth. The five-spotted hawk moth is the adult of the tomato hornworm. Both moths are stout-bodied, grayish-colored insects with a wing spread of 4 to 5 inches.
 
The larva is the damaging stage and feeds on the leaves and stems of the tomato plant, leaving behind dark green or black droppings. Though initially quite small with a body about the same size as its horn, these insects pass through four or five larval stages to reach full size in about a month. The coloration of this larva causes it to blend in with its surroundings and is often difficult to see despite its large size. It eventually will burrow into the soil to pupate. There are two generations a year.
 
This insect is parasitized by a number of insects. One of the most common is a small braconid wasp. Larva that hatch from wasp eggs laid on the hornworm feed on the inside of the hornworm until the wasp is ready to pupate. The cocoons appear as white projections protruding from the hornworm's body. If such projections are seen, leave the infected hornworms in the garden. The wasps will kill the hornworms when they emerge from the cocoons and will seek out other hornworms to parasitize.
 
Handpicking is an effective control in small gardens. Bt (Dipel, Thuricide), spinosad (Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar Spray; Colorado Potato Beetle Beater Conc; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew, Monterey Garden Insect Spray), cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray) and other insecticides may also be used to control hornworms. (Ward Upham)

If you notice leaves disappearing from walnut trees, it may be walnut caterpillars. Walnut caterpillars attack primarily black walnut, pecan, and several species of hickory trees, but may also attack birch, oak, willow, honey locust, and apple trees.
 
Walnut caterpillars overwinter as pupae underground beneath host trees. In late spring, moths emerge and deposit egg clusters on lower leaves. By the end of June, newly emerged and gregarious larvae skeletonize leaves. Larger hairy, brick-red larvae consume greater amounts of leaf tissue, and nearly matured gray larvae devour entire leaves, including petioles.
 
As mentioned earlier, walnut caterpillars are gregarious. In other words, they feed in groups. A single tree may contain several groups.  When disturbed, larvae arch their bodies in what looks like a defensive move. Larvae crowd together on the lower parts of trees to molt and leave an ugly patch of hairy skins. Mature larvae, 2 inches long, descend or drop to the ground where they enter the soil to pupate. A second generation occurs soon, creating the overwintering pupae.
 
Removing leaves with egg masses is an effective way to control walnut caterpillars. This may be impractical with large trees or when too many infested leaves are present. Bands of Tree Tanglefoot pest barrier may be used to snare larvae as they migrate to main branches or the trunk to molt. Insecticides such as spinosad (Conserve; Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray) permethrin (numerous trade names) malathion or cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) may provide the most practical means of control. (Ward Upham)

There was a study done in 2005 by Ohio State University that compared the effectiveness of various biorational and natural products to more traditional pesticides. Squash bug was one of the insects that was a target organism. What was interesting is that certain products were more effective at different life stages. The researchers compared the effectiveness of products on young nymphs, old nymphs and adults. Following are the results for squash bug:
 
 
 
Life Stage            Most Effective          Moderately Effective                   Least Effective

Young Nymphs        Spinosad                               Carbaryl                                                           Garlic
                                                                                          Pyrethrins                                                       Neem Oil
                                                                                          Permethrin

Old Nymphs              Spinosad                            Permethrin                                                       Pyrethrins
                                                                                                                                                                      Carbaryl

Adults                         Cyhalothrin                        Esfenvalerate                                                  Spinosad
                                      Cyfluthrin                                                                                                         Permethrin
                                      Pyrethrins                                                                                                          Carbaryl
 
Carbaryl - Sevin
Cyfluthrin - Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray
Esfenvalerate - Monterey Bug Buster II
Cyhalothrin - Bonide Beetle Killer; Spectracide Triazicide
Permethrin - Bonide Eight Garden Dust; Bayer Complete Insect Dust; Hi-Yield Garden, Pet & Livestock Dust
Pyrethrins - Monterey Bug Buster-O; Fertilome Quik-Kill Home, Garden & Pet Spray
Spinosad - Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar Spray; Bonide Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew; Bonide Colorado Potato Beetle Beater
 
To see the complete study, go to http://entomology.osu.edu/welty/pdf/VegIPMReport2005.pdf (Ward Upham)
 
Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing season. But many people dislike both these characteristics. Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive. Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the tall fescue portion of the lawn is green. Bermuda is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun.

So, how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Therefore, you will need to reseed treated areas. In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.

Spray about the middle of June (or when the bermuda is growing well). Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two weeks and scalp the lawn (mow as low as possible and remove clippings). This will prevent dead grass from covering any bermuda that starts to recover. Wait another two weeks and spray again with glyphosate if there is any green. Wait two more weeks and reseed. (Ward Upham)

Heavy fruit loads this season may cause limbs to break if they are not given extra support. As fruits increase in size, the additional weight on individual branches may be substantial. One-inch thick boards can be used to prop up limbs.

Here's how.  Cut a "V" on the top edge of the board on which the limb will rest so that it doesn't slip off. Long limbs that are heavily loaded with fruit may need a prop in the center and another to support the outer part of the limb. A plastic belt-like material that is about 2 inches wide may also be used. This can be tied to a heavily loaded limb, then to a large diameter limb above for support. Where a large limb is used for support, it is good to have it supporting limbs on opposite sides so the weight is balanced. Another solution is to wrap a tape or belt material around the tree in a spiral to prevent limbs from bending until they break. Heavy twine may be used, but it should be removed when the fruit is picked or soon after so it does not cut into the bark on the limb.

Check trees regularly, up to two times a week during the last month the fruit are maturing. You will find additional limbs that need support. Tending to the heavily loaded tree limbs will reduce the number of broken limbs and help keep a balance of the fruiting wood in your tree. Next year, prune long, weak branches back to a side branch to help prevent this problem. (Ward Upham)

Blackberry and raspberry fruit will often develop white or tan drupelets on the berry. Though we are not completely sure of the cause, two commonly given reasons are stinkbug damage and sunscald.  Damage has been attributed to stinkbugs if the pattern of off color (not white) drupelets is random. Stinkbug damage is caused by the insect feeding on the blackberry receptacle and injuring drupelets on either side. Sunscald damage will be on the side of the fruit exposed to the sun and has several drupelets in a small area being affected.

Neither condition affects the eating quality of the fruit unless the stink bug releases the “stink” with which it is associated rendering the fruit inedible. By the time damage is seen, it is too late for control. (Ward Upham)

Potatoes are ready to harvest when the vines are about half dead. Potatoes dug too early have tender skins and are easily bruised. Delaying digging will allow the soil to heat because it is no longer shaded by foliage. High soil temperatures can lead to sprouting potatoes. Allow potatoes to "set" by keeping them in a shady, dry location for a day or so. Move them to a cool, moist environment such as a cellar or cool basement for longer storage. (Ward Upham)

Japanese beetles have become a firmly established pest species in portions of Kansas. Potential damage is twofold. Most commonly, Japanese beetles indiscriminately feed on nearly 300 plant species including fruits, vegetables, agronomic and forage crops, ornamentals, trees and shrubs. Often times, host plants are literally covered with the gregarious beetles which rapidly consume any and all foliage and floral plant tissue. A second type of damage is associated with the “white grub” larval stage as a potential turf pest.

While some individuals prefer to calculate/record accumulated Growing Day Degrees 50 as a method to predict the initial yearly appearance of Japanese beetles, one can more easily set out traps baited with the JB pheromone and floral lure. The bonus is that this also tells an individual that JB actually are “in-the-neighborhood” as evidenced by their being captured.

First 2015 reports of JB captures: Desoto June 9; Manhattan June 15; Topeka June 16. Look for their numbers to rapidly increase. People concerned with JB feeding on landscape plants need to be vigilant in inspecting plants for the presence of JB. If present and if in damaging numbers, corrective actions should be undertaken.

Refer to K-State Research and Extension Publication MF3151 – Japanese Beetle (Bob Bauernfeind)

If you notice leaves disappearing from walnut trees, it may be walnut caterpillars. Walnut caterpillars attack primarily black walnut, pecan, and several species of hickory trees, but may also attack birch, oak, willow, honey locust, and apple trees.      

Walnut caterpillars overwinter as pupae underground beneath host trees. In late spring, moths emerge and deposit egg clusters on lower leaves. By the end of June, newly emerged and gregarious larvae skeletonize leaves. Larger hairy, brick-red larvae consume greater amounts of leaf tissue, and nearly matured gray larvae devour entire leaves, including petioles.

As mentioned earlier, walnut caterpillars are gregarious. In other words, they feed in groups. A single tree may contain several groups.       

When disturbed, larvae arch their bodies in what looks like a defensive move. Larvae crowd together on the lower parts of trees to molt and leave an ugly patch of hairy skins. Mature larvae, 2 inches long, descend or drop to the ground where they enter the soil to pupate. A second generation occurs soon, creating the overwintering pupae.

Removing leaves with egg masses is an effective way to control walnut caterpillars. This may be impractical with large trees or when too many infested leaves are present. Bands of Tree Tanglefoot pest barrier may be used to snare larvae as they migrate to main branches or the trunk to molt. Insecticides such as spinosad (Conserve; Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray) permethrin (numerous trade names) malathion or cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) may provide the most practical means of control. (Ward Upham)

The two-lined spittlebug derives its name from the white, frothy" spittle" the nymphs produce. Adults are large, black leafhoppers about 1/3-inch long with two red stripes that go crosswise across the back. The eyes and abdomen are bright red. Though the nymphs resemble the adults, they are smaller and wingless. Color varies from yellow to white to orange but the eyes are always red.

Spittlebug nymphs suck plant juices like aphids, but they remove so much water and carbohydrates that excess fluid is produced. They cover themselves with this fluid and then produce the spittle by bubbling air from the tip of the abdomen into the liquid. The spittle mass helps protect the nymphs from drying and predators.

Spittlebugs normally do not achieve high enough populations to cause damage. If they do, forcefully hosing the plants several times should achieve the level of control needed. (Ward Upham)

There have been many concerned calls to state specialists and county agents this spring and summer about cupped and curled leaves on landscape trees and what is causing it. Also homeowners want to know if the tree will die from the damage or grow out of it. While there are some insects that can cause these symptoms (margin or vein pocket gall on pin oaks, or high aphid populations on young leaves), the most common cause is herbicide drift, or volatilization. The usual culprit is a phenoxy-type herbicide, of which 2,4-D is the most commonly used. Drift is caused when tiny spray droplets are carried by wind to off-site and off-target plants. This type of damage commonly occurs when an agricultural field is close to a residential landscape, and drift reduction methods are not followed, like accounting for the wind, and using uniform droplet or large droplet nozzles, and lower pressures.

Volatilization is a different problem altogether, and almost impossible to trace back to a source. Some herbicides, particularly the ester formulations of 2,4-D and related chemicals are prone to vaporize, and move off site. The conditions that promote volatilization (high humidity, low wind speeds) are different than conditions that promote drift (high wind speeds). Sometime the damage is caused by the homeowner themselves, spraying for weeds in their lawn.

The various oak species are quite sensitive to herbicide exposure, especially when the new leaves are just expanding.  It is the time-sensitive nature of exposure that will lead to normal leaves being found on the same twig as badly distorted leaves. Redbud is another tree species that is very sensitive to herbicides. However, the presence of twisted and cupped leaves on your tree does not mean that tree will die. If most of the leaves remain green, and if new leaves emerge without symptoms, the exposure was not severe enough to do any real harm. This is a recurring problem, due to agriculture being the dominant land use in Kansas, but fortunately the damage, although striking visually, is usually just superficial, and the tree will grow out of it just fine.  (Charlie Barden)

Contributors: Charlie Barden, Extension Forester, Bob Bauernfeind, Entomologist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate them and increase flowering.

Iris may be divided from late July through August,but late July through early August is ideal. Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength.

Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting.

Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer,such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show phosphorus levels that are quite high. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than second(phosphorus). (Ward Upham)

Though we normally see this condition most commonly on tomatoes as evidenced by a sunken,brown, leathery patch on the bottom of the fruit,this year we are also seeing it on summer squash. Not a disease, this condition is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. It is often assumed that this means there is a corresponding lack of calcium in the soil. This is not necessarily the case, especially in Kansas. Most Kansas soils have sufficient levels of calcium. So what causes blossom-end rot? Actually, there are a number of possible causes. Let's look at some of them.

- This year, inconsistent amounts of water may be a factor for our squash. This can be due to watering practices or may be due to heavy rains followed by dry periods. Try to keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Mulching can help by moderating moisture levels over time.

- Vegetable tops will sometimes outgrow the root system during cooler spring weather. This is especially true of tomatoes. As long as it is cool, the root system can keep up. When it turns hot and dry, the plant has a problem, and water —with the calcium it carries — goes to the leaves and the fruit is bypassed. The plant responds with new root growth and the condition corrects itself after a couple of weeks.

- Heavy fertilization, especially with ammonium forms of nitrogen, can encourage this condition. Heavy fertilization encourages more top than root growth and the ammonium form of nitrogen competes with calcium for uptake.

- Anything that disturbs roots such as hoeing too deeply can encourage blossom-end rot. Mulching helps because it keeps the soil surface cooler and therefore a better environment for root growth.

There are some years you do everything right and the condition still shows up due to the weather. In such cases, remember that blossom-end rot is a temporary condition, and plants should come out of it in a couple of weeks. You may want to pick off affected fruit to encourage new fruit formation.

Soils with adequate calcium will not benefit from adding additional calcium. If your soil is deficient in this nutrient, add 1 pound gypsum per 100 square feet. Gypsum is calcium sulfate and will not affect pH. Though calcium raises pH, sulfate lowers it and the two cancel each other out. Even if not needed, gypsum will not hurt anything.

We have also found that spraying plants with calcium doesn't work. The fruit's waxy surface doesn't allow absorption of the material and calcium does not move from the leaves to the fruit. (Ward Upham)

Trees naturally shed bark as they grow. The amount of bark shed varies significantly from one year to the next and is usually not noticeable. But some trees, such as sycamore, London Planetree and silver maple, shed bark in large patches or strips. During a year with heavy shedding homeowners may become concerned that the tree is sick or dying. Such usually is not the case. Sycamore and London Planetree normally show a bright green color on the branches when the bark first falls off but soon return to normal. Maple reveals an orange color after shedding but it, too, soon returns to normal. Eastern redbud tends to shed bark on older trees revealing an orangish-brown inner bark. There is nothing wrong with the tree as long as the shedding bark simply reveals underlying bark rather than bare wood. (Ward Upham)

If you notice leaves disappearing from walnut trees, it may be walnut caterpillars. Walnut caterpillars attack primarily black walnut, pecan, and several species of hickory trees, but may also attack birch, oak, willow, honey locust, and apple trees.

Walnut caterpillars overwinter as pupae underground beneath host trees. In late spring, moths emerge and deposit egg clusters on lower leaves. By the end of June, newly emerged and gregarious larvae skeletonize leaves. Larger hairy,brick-red larvae consume greater amounts of leaf tissue, and nearly matured gray larvae devour entire leaves, including petioles.

As mentioned earlier, walnut caterpillars are gregarious. In other words, they feed in groups. A single tree may contain several groups. When disturbed, larvae arch their bodies in what looks like a defensive move. Larvae crowd together on the lower parts of trees to molt and leave an ugly patch of hairy skins. Mature larvae, 2 inches long, descend or drop to the ground where they enter the soil to pupate. A second generation occurs soon, creating the overwintering pupae.

Removing leaves with egg masses is an effective way to control walnut caterpillars. This may be impractical with large trees or when too many infested leaves are present. Bands of Tree Tanglefoot pest barrier may be used to snare larvae as they migrate to main branches or the trunk to molt. Insecticides such as spinosad (Conserve; Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray) permethrin (numerous trade names) malathionor cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) may provide the most practical means of control. (Ward Upham)

These small, hopping insects are causing concern among gardeners because they are so noticeable.What people often see first is not the insect but the filaments of white, wool-like wax they leave behind. Nymphs are also coated with this white, powdery wax but adults of the species I've observed (citrus planthopper?) are more of a grayish color with a darker rear end. Only the adults have wings that are held over the body like a pup tent. Nymphs are more flattened and may not appear to be insects at first because of the waxy coating.

Plant injury due to these insects is usually minor. Feeding by large populations may cause death of seedlings or wilting of small twigs of larger plants. Control is usually not recommended because natural enemies often keep flatid planthoppers in check. If control is warranted, a strong stream of water from a hose should knock them off or a number of insecticides may be used including malathion, permethrin, cyfluthrin, and bifenthrin. For a detailed description, check out the University of Georgia Bugwood page.(Ward Upham)

There was a study done in 2005 by Ohio State University that compared the effectiveness of various biorational and natural products to more traditional pesticides. Squash bug was one of the insects that was a target organism. What was interesting is that certain products were more effective at different life stages. The researchers compared the effectiveness of products on young nymphs, old nymphs and adults. Following are the results for squash bug:

To see the complete study, go to http://entomology.osu.edu/welty/pdf/VegIPMReport2005.pdf  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate