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Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 35

9/1/2015

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Video of the Week:
Tips on Harvesting Pears

Flowers:
Dividing Peonies

Poeny Coral Charm
Peonies are a favorite perennial of gardeners because of their beauty and low maintenance. In Kansas, peonies provide a beautiful display of flowers each spring before Memorial Day. Though peonies can be left in place indefinitely, many gardeners wish to increase their plantings and use a process known as division to accomplish this. Keep in mind, however, that peonies often take about three years to return to full bloom and size after division.

Fall is the traditional time to divide these plants. The first step in division is to remove the foliage. Peonies are essentially dormant by September 1 even though the foliage is still green. Then dig out the entire plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as possible so that the pink buds or "eyes" are visible. Peony roots are tough, and a sharp knife is needed to cut the roots into separate pieces. Make sure each division has three to four buds. Make sure the location chosen for planting receives at least a half-day of full sun. However, the more sun, the better. Space the plants so that there is at least 2 feet between dwarf types and 4 feet between the standard types.

Follow the same rules for planting these divisions as you do for new plants. Make sure the pink buds are about 1 inch below the soil surface. If they are set more than 2 inches deep, flowering may be delayed or completely prevented. As you set the plants, firm soil often as it is added around the plant. If the soil is not firmed, it can settle and pull the plant down with it. Water in well after planting and water as necessary through the fall and winter to keep the soil moist. It is often a good idea to add mulch to the new planting to protect it from heaving. The alternate
freezing and thawing that commonly occurs during Kansas winters can "heave" weakly rooted plants out of the ground. Add a mulch of straw, leaves, compost or other material after the soil freezes. Remember, it is not the cold that harms these plants but the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Asparagus and Rhubarb in the Autumn Season

Asparagus in autumn
Harvest is long past, but now is the time asparagus and rhubarb plants build up needed reserves for the next year. Be sure to water during dry weather and keep plants weed free. Foliage should be left until all green is gone. It can then be removed or left for the winter to help collect snow. (Ward Upham)

Weird Squash

weird squash
Occasionally we receive a call from someone who has a squash (or cucumber or melon) that just doesn’t look like what was supposedly planted. They often wish to know if that fruit had cross-pollinated with another vegetable close by. 

In such cases, the gardener is assuming that cross-pollination will affect the fruit. Such is not the case. The characteristics of the fruit are determined by the mother plant and are not affected by cross-pollination. However, there will be a problem if seed is saved for the next year from a flower that was cross-pollinated. All bets are off on what you will get if that happens.

So, how do we end up with this weird vegetable? Though it could be that the gardener had forgotten exactly what he planted, more likely is that the seed he bought had been accidentally cross-pollinated before packaging. Another possibility is that the plant came from seed produced by fruit that had rotted in the garden the previous year. Regardless, don’t worry about planting different cultivars of squash or cucumbers or melons close to one another. Though cross-pollination sometimes occurs, the fruit will not be affected. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Storing Apples

apples
You can enjoy apples from January to June – with the right conditions. Some apple cultivars can be stored for longer periods than others. Some cultivars will stay in firm, crisp condition for about 6 to 8 months with good storage conditions. The approximate length of time cultivars will keep well under refrigerated conditions are as follows:

        Wealthy: 60 days
        Paulared: 90 days
        Gala: 120 days
        Jonathan: 120 days
        Grimes Golden: 120 days          
        Golden Delicious: 150 days
        Empire:150 days
        Delicious: 160 days
        Braeburn: 180 days
        Idared: 200 days
        Rome Beauty: 220 days
        Winesap: 220 days
        Fuji: 240 days
        Granny Smith: 240 days
        Arkansas Black: 240 days

The condition of the apples and how they are stored will strongly influence the storage period.

Some guidelines to help assure good quality and maximum storage life of apples include:

        * Store only the best quality.
        * Pick as they are first maturing.
        * Avoid skin breaks, disease or insect damage, and bruises on individual fruit
        * Store in a plastic bag to help retain moisture in the apples. The bag should have a few small holes for air exchange. The bags of apples may be stored in boxes to prevent bruising if they must be stacked or moved from time to time.
        * Refrigerate at about 35 degrees F. An extra refrigerator works well.
         *Sort about every 30 to 40 days to remove fruit that may be beginning to rot. (Ward Upham)

Turfgrass:
Little Barley in Lawns

Little Barley
Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid- to late-summer.

So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is the time to control it for next year. The best control for little barley is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding now can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. 

However, if you do not plan to overseed, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed.  The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is Surflan. It is also sold under the name of Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Surflan can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr), is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide now and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Organic Sources of Nitrogen Fertilizer

garden soil
Most of the soil tests we receive for vegetable gardens are high in phosphorus and potassium leaving nitrogen as the nutrient needed most.  However, many of our organic fertilizers contain similar amounts of all three nutrients. So, what can we use that provides more nitrogen then phosphorus and potassium? Following is a short list of such fertilizers.

Product                          Analysis       Pounds /100 sq. ft.                        Notes
Blood Meal                                12-0-0                          5 - 10                               Can burn plants if overapplied.

Cottonseed Meal                   6-0.4-1.5                          10                              May have pesticide carryover unless labeled as  pesticide- free.
                                                                       
Soybean Meal                               7-2-1                             8

Feed stores will often sell these products. Colorado State University has an excellent publication on organic fertilizers at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/Gardennotes/234.html. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe          
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2014 Horticulture Newsletter, No. 35

9/2/2014

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Video of the Week:
Tips on Harvesting Pears

Turfgrass:
Little Barley in Lawns

Little Barley
Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid- to late-summer.

So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is the time to control it for next year.  The best control for little barley is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding now can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. However, if you do not plan to overseed, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed.

The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is Surflan. It is also sold under the name of Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Surflan can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr), is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide now and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Asparagus and Rhubarb in the Autumn Season

Asparagus in late summer
Harvest is long past but now is the time asparagus and rhubarb plants build up needed reserves for the next year. Be sure to water during dry weather and keep plants weed free. Foliage should be left until all green is gone. It can then be removed or left for the winter to help collect snow. (Ward Upham)

Weird Squash

weird squash
Occasionally we receive a call from someone who has a squash (or cucumber or melon) that just doesn’t look like what was supposedly planted.   They often wish to know if that fruit had cross-pollinated with another vegetable close by.          

In such cases, the gardener is assuming that cross-pollination will affect the fruit.  Such is not the case.  The characteristics of the fruit is determined by the mother plant and is not affected by cross-pollination.  However, there will be a problem if seed is saved for the next year from a flower that was cross-pollinated.  All bets are off on what you will get if that happens.

So, how do we end up with this weird vegetable?  Though it could be that the gardener had forgotten exactly what he planted, more likely is that the seed he bought had been accidentally cross-pollinated before packaging.  Another possibility is that it came from seed that came from fruit that had rotted in the garden the previous year.  Regardless, don’t worry about planting different cultivars of squash or cucumbers or melons close to one another.  Though cross-pollination sometimes occurs, the fruit will not be affected.  (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Storing Apples

Apples
You can enjoy apples from January to June – with the right conditions. Some apple cultivars can be stored for longer periods than others. Some cultivars will stay in firm, crisp condition for about 6 to 8 months with good storage conditions. The approximate length of time cultivars will keep well under refrigerated conditions are as follows:

        Wealthy: 60 days
        Paulared: 90 days
        Gala: 120 days
        Jonathan: 120 days
        Grimes Golden: 120 days
        Golden Delicious: 150 days
        Empire:150 days
        Delicious: 160 days
        Braeburn: 180 days
        Idared: 200 days
        Rome Beauty: 220 days
        Winesap: 220 days
        Fuji: 240 days
        Granny Smith: 240 days
        Arkansas Black: 240 days

The condition of the apples and how they are stored will strongly influence the storage period.  Some guidelines to help assure good quality and maximum storage life of apples include:

        * Store only the best quality.
        * Pick as they are first maturing.
        * Avoid skin breaks, disease or insect damage, and bruises on individual fruit.
        * Store in a plastic bag to help retain moisture in the apples. The bag should have a few small holes for air exchange. The bags of apples may be stored in boxes to prevent bruising if they must be stacked or moved from time to time.
        * Refrigerate at about 35 degrees F. An extra refrigerator works well.
        * Sort about every 30 to 40 days to remove fruit that may be beginning to rot. (Ward Upham(-

Ornamentals:
Trees Coloring Early

tree showing fall colors
We are seeing a number of trees, especially maples, that are showing fall colors early. Often it is not the whole tree but sections. As a rule, we consider early coloration as bad news as it often means the tree is under a great deal of stress. However, this year, many of the trees showing coloration look perfectly healthy. We think what has happened is the trees have come through a cooler than normal early summer and never hardened off to hot temperatures. Also, many areas are very dry including some that had heavy rains in June. Now that the weather has changed, the tree is simply entering dormancy early.

The tree has had plenty of time to store the energy reserves it needs to survive the winter. So, do we need to do anything? Yes, we do. Keep the soil moist as many trees have had root systems damaged from the last couple of years. We need to give that root system time to recover. This is especially important for areas that are still experiencing drought or have had so much rain earlier in the summer that soils were saturated for a period of time. Lack of oxygen from saturated soils is just as damaging to a root system as lack of water. (Ward Upham)

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Mycosphaerella leaf spot
We are now seeing this disease in the Emporia and Manhattan areas.  With all the concern about Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), many people may assume the trees are being attacked by EAB.  However, EAB has only been confirmed in Johnson, Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties.

Mycosphaerella leaf spot causes small, brown spots that enlarge to become blotches and may result in early leaf drop. Though this disease looks serious, it is not. Defoliation this late in the growing season will not hurt the health of the tree. Therefore, because this disease appears sporadically and tree health is not harmed, we do not recommend treatment. Furthermore, treatment would have to be preventative and applied before the disease had infected the leaves. Applying a fungicide now would have no effect. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Emerald Ash Borer Found in Leavenworth County

Emerald Ash Borer
Leavenworth County has been added to the Emerald Ash Borer quarantine already in place in Johnson and Wyandotte counties in Kansas.  The following information is taken directly from the Kansas Department of Agriculture website at http://agriculture.ks.gov/divisions-programs/plant-protect-weed-control/emerald-ash-borer .

Leavenworth County EAB Find Background - On July 16, 2014, an adult EAB was caught on a girdled tree trap placed on K-5 southeast of Lansing by the Kansas Department of Agriculture (KDA) in cooperation with the Kansas Department of Transportation (KDOT) and the Kansas Forest Service (KFS).  A second EAB was also caught on a second girdled trap tree at Kenneth W. Bernard Community Park by KDA in cooperation with the City of Lansing and the KFS. Regulatory officials with the USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service’s Plant Protection and Quarantine (USDA-APHIS-PPQ) confirmed the presence of EAB on July 17, 2014.

Immediately after confirmation by USDA, Kansas expanded an emergency intrastate quarantine, currently in place in Wyandotte and Johnson counties, to include Leavenworth County to prevent further spread of EAB in Kansas.

The quarantine applies to any corporation, company, society, association, partnership, governmental agency, and any individual or combination of individuals. It prohibits movement of regulated items from the quarantined area, except under specific conditions established in the

        Permanent EAB Quarantine for Wyandotte and Johnson County
        Temporary EAB Quarantine for Leavenworth County

Regulated items under quarantine include the following:
* The emerald ash borer, (Agrilus planipennis [Coleoptera: Buprestidae]), in any living stage of development;
* Firewood of all hardwood (non-coniferous) species;
* Nursery stock of the genus Fraxinus (Ash);
* Green lumber of the genus Fraxinus (Ash);
* Other material living, dead, cut, or fallen, including logs, stumps, roots, branches, and composted and uncomposted chips of the genus Fraxinus (Ash);

Any other article, product, or means of conveyance that an inspector determines presents a risk of spreading emerald ash borer and notifies the person in possession of the article, product, or means of conveyance that it is subject to the restrictions of the regulations.

If you suspect emerald ash borer on your property please call 785-862-2180 or e-mail your name, address, phone number and pictures of the suspect tree to ppwc@kda.ks.gov.  For answers to common questions, check out our Kansas Emerald Ash Borer Frequently Asked Questions and Do I Have Emerald Ash Borer?  (Ward Upham)

Fall Armyworms on Turf

Fall armyworm
The last time we had a significant outbreak of fall armyworm on turf was August, 2000. Armyworms are so-called because they invade fields or landscapes as large groups and can cause a lawn to turn brown seemingly overnight.

Young worms are ½ to 3/4 inch long. Mature ones are 1 ½ inches long. Body color may vary from green to almost black but light stripes will be visible along the length of the body. Look for a whitish inverted "Y" on the top of the black head. It normally takes 2 to 3 weeks to progress from egg to pupa. The adult is a moth.

Armyworm damage can resemble drought damage but close inspection of the turf will reveal the larvae. Look for active feeding during early morning or evening hours or on cloudy days. Larvae feed on foliage and the resulting dehydration causes to turf to quickly brown. Normally, armyworm damage does not kill established turf.

Carbaryl (Sevin), acephate (Orthene, Acephate), spinosad (Conserve; Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray) and other insecticides are effective caterpillar killers. Treat in late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. Do not mow for 3 days after treatment. (Ward Upham)

Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate


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Horticulture Newsletter 2014 No. 27

7/8/2014

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Video of the Week:
Common Tomato Problems, Part 2

Turfgrass:
Bermudagrass Control

Picture
Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing  season. But many people dislike both these characteristics. Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive. Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the rest of the lawn is green. And it is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun. So how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. You will need to reseed treated areas.  In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.

Spray about the middle of this month (or when the bermuda is growing well) and again about a month later if there is any green left in the bermudagrass. Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two more weeks and reseed. It may also be helpful to scalp (mow as low as possible and remove clippings) the lawn two weeks after the first application so that dead grass does not prevent the glyphosate from reaching the recovering bermuda. (Ward Upham)

Slime Molds

Picture
Slime molds are primitive organisms that are common on turf and mulch. Slime molds are not fungi and are no longer classified as such. They belong to the Kingdom Protista rather than Kingdom Fungi. On turf, you might often see large numbers of small gray, white or purple fruiting structures, called sporangia on leaf blades during cool and humid weather throughout spring, summer, and fall. Affected areas are often several inches to 1 foot in diameter. During wet weather, the fruiting structures may appear slimy. As the structures dry out in hot weather, they become ash gray and break up easily when touched.

Homeowners often are concerned that this is a disease organism that will kill the grass, but slime mold feeds on bacteria, other fungi, and dead organic matter. It simply uses the turf as a structure on which to grow. However, slime mold can damage turf by completely covering leaf blades and interfering with photosynthesis. Chemical control of slime molds is not necessary. Use a broom or a heavy spray of water to dislodge the mold.

Slime molds on mulch often attract attention because of their bright colors and disgusting appearance. Common names are often quite descriptive. For example, the "dog vomit" slime mold is a bright, whitish color that resembles its namesake. It eventually turns brown and then into a hard, white mass. There is also the "scrambled egg" slime mold, "the yellow blob" slime mold and the "regurgitated cat breakfast" slime mold. Slime molds do not hurt anything, but most people do not find them attractive and want to get rid of them. Simply use a shovel to discard the offensive organism and then stir up the mulch for aeration. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Hornworms on Tomatoes

Picture
Hornworms are the largest larval insect commonly seen in the garden. Though usually seen on tomato, they can also attack eggplant, pepper, and potato. The larval stage of this insect is a 3 ½- to 4-inch long pale green caterpillar with five pair of prolegs and a horn on the last segment. The two most common hornworms are the tobacco hornworm (seven diagonal white stripes and, most commonly, a red horn) and the tomato hornworm (v-shaped markings with a horn that is often blue or black). The adult of the tobacco hornworm is the Carolina sphinx moth.  The five-spotted hawk moth is the adult of the tomato hornworm. Both moths are stout-bodied, grayish-colored insects with a wing spread of 4 to 5 inches.

The larva is the damaging stage and feeds on the leaves and stems of the tomato plant, leaving behind dark green or black droppings. Though initially quite small with a body about the same size as its horn, these insects pass through four or five larval stages to reach full size in about a month. The coloration of this larva causes it to blend in with its surroundings and is often difficult to see despite its large size. It eventually will burrow into the soil to pupate. There are two generations a year. This insect is parasitized by a number of insects. One of the most common is a small braconid wasp. Larva that hatch from wasp eggs laid on the hornworm feed on the inside of the hornworm until the wasp is ready to pupate. The cocoons appear as white projections protruding from the hornworm's body. If such projections are seen, leave the infected hornworms in the garden. The wasps will kill the hornworms when they emerge from the cocoons and will seek out other hornworms to parasitize.

Handpicking is an effective control in small gardens. Bt (Dipel, Thuricide), spinosad  (Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar Spray; Colorado Potato  Beetle Beater Conc; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew, Monterey Garden Insect Spray), cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray) and other insecticides may also be used to control hornworms.  (Ward Upham)

Weird Squash, Cucumbers, or Melons

Picture
Occasionally we receive a call from someone who has a squash (or cucumber or melon) that just doesn’t look like what was supposedly planted.

They often wish to know if that fruit had cross-pollinated with another vegetable close by.  In such cases, the gardener is assuming that cross-pollination will affect the fruit.  Such is not the case.  The characteristics of the fruit is determined by the mother plant and is not affected by cross-pollination.  However, there will be a problem if seed is saved for the next year from a flower that was cross-pollinated.  All bets are off on what you will get if that happens.

So how do we end up with this weird fruit?  Though it could be that the gardener had forgotten exactly what he planted, more likely is that the seed he planted had been cross-pollinated before packaging.   Another possibility is that it came from seed that came from fruit that had rotted in the garden the previous year.  Regardless, don’t worry about planting different cultivars of squash or cucumbers or melons close to one another.  Though cross-pollination may occur, the fruit will not be affected.  (Ward Upham)

Raccoons and Sweet Corn

Picture
It seems the official sweet corn inspector should be the raccoon as they seem to harvest the sweet corn the day before it is to be picked. The only effective control measure I have had success with is the electric fence. Here are some suggestions based on my experience. Other designs may very well work but this is what has worked in my garden.

– Two or more wires must be used. Place the first about 5 inches above the ground and the second 4 inches above the first (or 9 inches above ground). Raccoons must not be able to crawl under, go between or go over the wires without being shocked.

– Fence posts used for electric fences work well for this application (go figure), as do the insulators used to support the electric wire.

– It is much easier to use the woven electric wire with strands of wire embedded than to use a solid metal wire. The woven wire is easier to bend around corners and to roll up when done for the year.

– Though both the plug-in and battery operated fencers work, the battery operated types allow more versatility in where corn is grown. One set of batteries is usually sufficient for the season. In my case, I pull the battery out of an old tractor that is not used often. It will also last the season if fully charged at the beginning. My fencer is probably on for a total of a month.

– Start the charger before the corn is close to being ripe. Once raccoons get a taste of the corn, they are more difficult to discourage.

– Control weeds near the wire. Weeds can intercept the voltage if they touch a wire and allow raccoons entry beyond the weed.

– Check the wire occasionally to make sure you have current. This can be done easily (but unpleasantly) by touching the wire. There are also tools that will measure the voltage available for sale. They are worth the money. (Ward Upham)

Fall Gardening: Cole Crops

Picture
Probably the last thing most gardeners are thinking of now is planting vegetables. However, for those hardy few, now is the time to start the cole crops such as cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. These members of the cabbage family can be either seeded directly in the garden or started in pots for transplanting about mid-August.

Plant slightly deeper than you would in the spring so the seed stays cooler and the soil around the seed stays moist longer. Plant more thickly and thin later.  The plants may need to be protected from rabbits through the use of fencing.

Use light amounts of fertilizer before planting. For example, apply 1/4 cup of a low-analysis fertilizer (6-7-7) per 10 feet of row. Sidedress two weeks after transplanting or four weeks after sowing seed by applying 2 tablespoons of a 16-0-0 or 1 tablespoon of a 27-3-3, 30-3-4 fertilizer, or something similar per plant.

Watering must occur more frequently because seed should not be allowed to dry out. Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge.  Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of peat moss, vermiculite or compost directly over the row after seeding. Even better, use a soaker hose right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the ground.

Plants should be ready for harvest in late September to early October, with broccoli side shoots developing well into November, weather permitting. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
When to Pick Blackberries

Picture
The exact time to harvest blackberries varies by cultivar, with thorny blackberries normally ripening earlier than thornless types. But there are some general guidelines to keep in mind when harvesting blackberries. Do not pick blackberries too early or berry size and flavor will be sacrificed.          

Two major characteristics determining maturity for harvest are fruit color and ease of separation. Blackberries usually develop a dull, black color with plump, juicy fruitlets as they ripen. The berries soften and produce the characteristic flavor. Full color often develops before the berries separate easily. Pick the berries by gently lifting the berry with the thumb and fingers. The receptacle, or center part of the fruit, remains in the fruit when blackberries are harvested, unlike raspberries, which leave the receptacle on the bush. Take care not to crush the berries or expose them to the hot sun. When possible, avoid picking berries when they are wet. They'll probably need picking every second or third day. Cool the berries immediately after harvest to extend shelf life. Keep them refrigerated under high relative humidity and use within three to five days. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
White-lined Sphinx Caterpillar

Picture
The caterpillar of this species is a hornworm reminiscent of the tomato and tobacco hornworms.  Like other hornworms, this larva has a horn on the tail-end.  However, this is a thinner hornworm and prefers plants such as evening primrose, portulaca, pigweed and purslane.  Beneficial plants such as apple, elm, grapes and some garden vegetables are also fed on at times.   

The caterpillar is highly variable in coloration but are often green with black stripes and yellow and orange markings.  High populations can result in larvae that are very dark to almost black.  Though the horn on the back end of the larva may look dangerous, it is not.  It will neither sting or penetrate the skin.  Sphinx moths received their name from the habit of some of the caterpillar raising its head and striking a sphinx-like pose when at rest.

Control of this insect is rarely called for as it most commonly feeds on weeds.  However, if control is warranted due to feeding on desirable plants, follow the recommendations given in the accompanying article on tomato hornworms.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

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