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Video of the Week: Selecting the Best Transplant

5/2/2017

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 13

3/29/2016

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Video of the Week:
​Self-watering Planter Saves Time

Turfgrass:
Proper Timing for Crabgrass Preventers

crabgrass
Crabgrass preventers are another name for preemergence herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants. Many people have a somewhat foggy idea of how they work. They do not keep the seed from germinating but kill the young germinating plant.
 
Crabgrass preventers are just that – preventers. With few exceptions they have no effect on existing crabgrass plants, so they must be applied before germination. Additionally, preventers do not last forever once applied to the soil.
 
Microorganisms and natural processes begin to gradually break them down soon after they are applied. If some products are applied too early, they may have lost much of their strength by the time they are needed. Most crabgrass preventers are fairly ineffective after about 60 days, but there is considerable variation among products. (Dimension and Barricade last longer. See below.)
 
For most of Kansas, crabgrass typically begins to germinate around May 1 or a little later. April 15 is normally a good target date for applying preventer because it gives active ingredients time to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. However, this year, we may want to go a week or two early.  However, for southeast Kansas, this week would be more appropriate, and for northwest Kansas, mid-April would be best.
 
This year, it may be bet to base timing on the bloom of ornamental plants. The Eastern Redbud tree is a good choice for this purpose. When the trees in your area approach full bloom, apply crabgrass preventer. A follow-up application will be needed about 8 weeks later unless you are using Dimension or Barricade. Products that do require a follow-up application include pendimethalin (Scotts Halts) and Team (Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control).
 
Dimension and Barricade are the only two products that give season-long control of crabgrass from a single application. In fact, they can be applied much earlier than April 15 and still have sufficient residual strength to last the season. Barricade can even be applied in the fall for crabgrass control the next season.
 
Dimension can be applied as early as March 1. Because of the added flexibility in timing, these products are favorites of lawn care companies who have many customers to service in the spring. Though Dimension is usually not applied as early as Barricade, it is the herbicide of choice if it must be applied later than recommended. It is the exception to the rule that preemergence herbicides do not kill existing weeds. Dimension can kill crabgrass as long as it is young (two- to three-leaf stage). Dimension is also the best choice if treating a lawn that was planted late last fall. Normally a preemergence herbicide is not recommended unless the lawn has been mowed two to four times. But Dimension is kind to young tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass seedlings and some formulations can be applied as early as two weeks after the first sign of germination. However, read the label of the specific product you wish to use to ensure that this use is allowed. Lawns established in the fall can be safely treated with Dimension the following spring even if they have not been mowed.
 
Note that products containing Dimension and Barricade may use the common name rather than the trade name. The common chemical name for Dimension is dithiopyr and for Barricade is prodiamine. Remember, when using any pesticide, read the label and follow instructions carefully.
 
We recommend crabgrass preventers be applied before fertilizer so that the grass isn’t encouraged to put on too much growth too early. However, it may be difficult to find products that contain preemergents without fertilizer. Those that don’t contain fertilizer are listed below. I didn’t find any products containing Barricade that did not also have a fertilizer. If anyone knows of other products that should be listed, let us know and we will publish them in a later newsletter.
 
Pendimethalin
- Scotts Halts
 
Team (Benefin + Trifluralin)
- Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control
 
Dimension
- Hi-Yield Turf & Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper
- Bonide Crabgrass & Weed Preventer
- Green Light Crabgrass Preventer
​(Ward Upham)

How Low Should You Go

lawn mower
We often are asked whether it is good to mow lower in the spring. The answer is yes and no. It doesn’t hurt to mow lower than normal the first mowing or two. As a matter of fact, it can actually speed green-up by removing old, dead grass and allowing the soil to warm up more quickly.  But the mowing height should be raised to normal after the first or second cutting to discourage crabgrass and encourage deep rooting.
 
Crabgrass seed must have light to germinate, and a high mowing height will help shade the soil. Also, root depth and mowing height are related on upright growing grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass — the higher the height of cut, the deeper the root system. A deeper root system means a more drought-resistant turf.
 
So, how low should you go on the first cutting? On tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, you can mow as low as 1 to 1½ inches. Be careful you don't go so low that you scalp the turf.   After that, raise the mowing height for Kentucky bluegrass to 2 to 3 inches but 3 to 3½ inches for tall fescue. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Starting Tomatoes Early

Tomatoes with water teepees
If you would like to have your tomato plants produce earlier in the year, there are certain things to keep in mind. Most people who try to get a jump on the season set their tomatoes out early and hope they do well. However, that is often not a good plan, as tomatoes have to have certain requirements before they will grow well. Those requirements are an acceptable soil temperature for root growth and an acceptable air temperature for both plant growth and fruit set.
 
Root Growth: Tomatoes need a soil temperature of at least 55 degrees to do well. Plastic mulch is  most commonly used to warm the soil. Several days may be needed to raise the soil temperature. Check the soil temperature 2.5 inches deep in the soil at about 11:00 a.m. If that is not possible, check the temperature before leaving for work and again when your return and use the average of the two. You may wish to lay a drip irrigation line before installing the plastic to make watering more convenient. See accompanying article on laying plastic mulch.
 
Air Temperature: Plants must be protected from frost. Hot caps or water teepees are placed over the young plants to provide protection as well as a higher average temperature to encourage growth. Eventually the plants will outgrow the cover and start to develop flowers. But if the temperature goes below 55 degrees at night, tomato flowers may not set. The plant is not hurt, but the blossom will not set fruit, or, if it does set fruit, the fruit is often misshapen.
 
How early can you transplant? Start with a date about 2 weeks earlier than normal. (Ward Upham)

Laying Plastic Mulch

plastic mulch
Plastic mulch is sometimes used to start vegetables such as tomatoes and melons earlier than normal. Commercial growers use a machine to lay the mulch, but home gardeners must do this by hand. Following are some tips on how this is done.
 
1. Fertilize according to soil test. You won't be able to add fertilizer after the plastic is down.
 
2. Work the soil so that the bed can be easily shaped.
 
3. Use a garden hoe to form a trench along all edges of the plastic. The soil should be pulled to the outside of the bed. The trench should be formed six inches in from the edge of the plastic and extend along both sides and both ends. The trench should be deep and wide enough to bury six inches of plastic.
 
4. Lay trickle irrigation tube down the center of the bed. This isn't absolutely necessary but it makes it much easier to water. Overhead watering will hit the plastic and roll off.
 
5. Lay the plastic down and cover the edges with soil. You may need to slit the edge of the plastic where the trickle irrigation tube enters the end of the bed.
 
6. Plant when the soil temperature reaches the correct temperature for the crop (55 degrees for tomatoes and 60 degrees for melons) at a 2.5-inch depth. Check the temperature at about 11:00 a.m. to get a good average temperature. Check for several days in a row to ensure the temperature is stable. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Transplant Solutions and Sidedressings

fertilizing vegetable transplants
Transplant solutions are mild fertilizer solutions that are applied to newly transplanted vegetables and flowers. Transplant solutions are also called starter solutions or root stimulators. Early-season plants not given a transplant solution often develop a purplish tinge to the leaves caused by a phosphorus deficiency. Surprisingly, the soil may have plenty of phosphorus but plants often have difficulty taking up nutrients in cool soils. The starter solution places soluble nutrients near the roots so the plants get off to a good, strong start.
 
Transplant solutions (root stimulators) are available for sale but it is also possible to make your own transplant solution from a fertilizer that contains more phosphorus than nitrogen or potassium such as a 5-10-5, 10-20-10 or 11-15-11. Mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of one of the above fertilizers in a gallon of water several hours before use. The fertilizer won't completely dissolve but enough will go into solution to get plants off to a good start. Use about 1 cup of transplant
solution for each transplant.
 
Sidedressing is a fertilization done after the plants are established. A fertilizer containing primarily nitrogen is used to keep plants growing and productive. Nitrate of soda (16-0-0) is often used at the rate of 2 pounds fertilizer per 100 feet of row. More commonly available lawn fertilizers such as a 30-3-3, 29-5-4 or something similar can also be used but cut the rate in half.
 
Be sure any lawn fertilizer used does not contain weed preventers or weed killers. Note that most fertilizers weigh about 1 pound per pint of product.  We have a sidedressing sheet available that lists crops, rate of fertilizer application and timing of application(s) for many common vegetables as well as annual flowers. The sheet can be viewed at  http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc1991.ashx   (Ward Upham)

Organic Sources of Nitrogen Fertilizer

Picture
Most of the soil tests we receive for vegetable gardens are high in phosphorus and potassium, leaving nitrogen as the nutrient needed most. However, many of our organic fertilizers contain similar amounts of all three nutrients. So, what can we use that provides more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium? Following is a short list of such fertilizers.
 
 

​
Product                               Analysis                   Pounds/ 100 sq ft                       Notes
Blood Meal                                      12-0-0                                              5 - 10                          Can burn plants if overapplied
Cottonseed Meal                         6-0.4-1.5                                            10                               May have pesticide carryover
Soybean Meal                                  7-2-1                                                  8
 
Feed stores will often sell these products. Colorado State University has an excellent publication on organic fertilizers at  http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/Gardennotes/234.html  (Ward Upham)

​Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 4

1/26/2016

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Video of the Week:
Easy Care Plants

Upcoming Events:

Picture
RetailWorks
February 4, 2016
Manhattan, KS
 
Grow Your Garden Center Business in 2016!
We hope you'll join us for this companion conference to the biennial NurseryWorks conference--RetailWorks on Thursday, February 4, 2016 in Manhattan. While NurseryWorks focuses on providing resources for wholesale nursery crop growers, RetailWorks is designed with the independent garden center's needs in mind. We continue to bring in outstanding national and local speakers on a variety of topics. You'll find great content and networking at RetailWorks 2016--get it on your calendar and register today!  For more information, go to:
http://retailworks.weebly.com/ or register online at https://2016retailworks.eventbrite.com

Fruit:
Late Blooming and Frost Resistant Peach Trees

Peach blossom
Late spring frosts often eliminate potential peach crops in Kansas.  Since hardiness of fruit buds drops dramatically as flower buds open, even a delay in bloom time of a few days can dramatically affect the size of fruit crop.  A study done in southwestern Idaho investigated the average bloom times of a number of peach cultivars from 2003 - 2007.
 
Cultivar                    Date of full bloom
‘Snow Giant’                April 5
‘Jupiter’                        April 7
‘Yukon King’                April 7
‘Burpeach Six’             April 7
‘Fairtime’                      April 7
‘Coral Star’                   April 7
‘July Sun’                     April 7
‘Zee Lady’                    April 7
‘May Sun’                    April 8
‘Crimson Lady’           April 8
‘Summer Flame’         April 8
‘Elegant Lady’             April 8
‘Sugar Giant’               April 8
‘July Flame’                 April 8
‘Sweet Dream’             April 8
‘August Flame’            April 8
‘September Snow’       April 8
‘Snow King’                  April 8
‘Star Fire’                      April 8
‘Saturn’                         April 8
‘August Lady’              April 9
‘Ryan Sun’                    April 9
‘Brenda Sun’                April 9
‘All Star’                       April 9
‘Autumn Red’              April 9
‘O’Henry’                     April 9
‘Opal Moncav’             April 9
‘Rich Lady’                   April 9
‘Vista’                            April 9
‘Glow Star’                   April 9
‘Summer Lady’           April 10
‘Red Star’                     April 11
‘Fancy Lady’                April 12
‘Sierra Gem’                April 12
 
'Intrepid,' though not included in the above study, is a cultivar not only known for its late bloom time but also its frost-resistant blooms.  A study done in North Carolina noted that exposure to 6 consecutive subfreezing nights at 50% bloom did not eliminate the fruit crop.  All flower buds on all check cultivars were killed. (WU)

Cloning Apple Trees

Apple tree graft
We occasionally receive calls from gardeners who want to know how to treat an apple seed so it will germinate. Usually, the gardener is trying to reproduce an old apple tree that was special for some reason (good quality fruit, planted by grandparents, etc.).  Unfortunately, apples grown from seed will not be like the parent. About 1 in every 80,000 apple trees grown from seed will be as good as the apples we are used to eating. Apple trees grown from seed usually have small and inferior quality fruit.
 
If you want a tree exactly like the parent, you must propagate that tree vegetatively. In the case of apples, this usually means grafting. Apple trees are actually quite easy to graft, even for novices. Don't be afraid to try even if you haven't grafted before. The step that needs to be done at this time of year is the choosing and cutting of scion wood or small branches that will be grafted on top of a rootstock.
 
See the accompanying article in this newsletter on how this is done. However, if you don’t have an existing tree to graft onto, you will need to plant a rootstock this year for grafting onto next. Fruit trees are normally grafted (or budded) onto specially selected rootstocks. These rootstocks usually reduce tree size. For example, a tree that normally would reach 25 feet tall will only reach 10 feet if it is grown on a certain rootstock. Dwarfing rootstocks also allow apples to bear fruit a year or more earlier.
 
A tree on its own roots normally takes 5 to 7 years before it will bear. Semi-dwarf trees bear in 4 to 5 years, and dwarf trees bear in 3 to 4 years. Unfortunately, not all dwarfing rootstocks are well adapted to Kansas. Semi-dwarf trees usually are a better choice for us. Note that rootstock reduces tree size, not fruit size. Therefore, a Golden Delicious tree that only reaches 8 feet tall due to a dwarfing rootstock, will bear the same size fruit as a Golden Delicious tree that is 25 feet tall.
 
Most nurseries only sell trees that are already grafted. A company that does sell rootstocks is Raintree Nursery, Morton, WA, (360) 496-6400, http://www.raintreenursery.com/Rootstocks/ Another is Cummins Nursery, 865- 233-3539, http://www.cumminsnursery.com/rootstocks.htm though there is a minimum shipping and handling fee of $20.
 
It is also possible to buy a tree from a local nursery and graft your clone into it. This will give you one tree that produces two different apples. One disadvantage of this method is that it is possible to prune off the special clone by mistake in later years.

This information does not include the details of grafting or budding or subsequent care.  The Missouri Extension Service has an excellent publication on grafting at http://extension.missouri.edu/explorepdf/agguides/hort/g06971.pdf   as well as a second publication on budding at http://extension.missouri.edu/explorepdf/agguides/hort/g06972.pdf . Be sure to practice your cuts on wood you prune off in March. After you do about 100 cuts, you will start to get the hang of it. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Using a Planting Calendar

Seed starting
If you start vegetable plants indoors, it is often helpful to list seeding dates on a calendar so that plants are ready for transplanting at the proper time. To do this, choose your transplant date and count back the number of weeks necessary to grow your own transplants. For example, cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower are usually transplanted in late March to early April. It takes 8 weeks from seeding to transplant size.
 
Plants should be seeded in early February. Information on how many weeks it takes to grow transplants is available in our January 6 newsletter at  http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc4036.ashx
 
Below are examples of some common vegetables grown for transplants and a recommended date for seeding. Dates are Saturdays as this is when many homeowners have the most free time. The dates are not set in stone, and a week earlier or later will not ruin the plants. Also, you may want to seed a week or two earlier if you are in southern Kansas and possibly a week later if you are in northern Kansas. Keep notes on how well the transplants did so you can tweak the
planting schedule. Your conditions may result in plants that need a bit more or a bit less time. (Ward Upham)
 
Crop                                                      Seeding Date        Transplant Date
Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower        February 6            April 2
Lettuce (if your grow transplants) February 6            April 2
Peppers                                                March 19               May 14
Tomatoes                                             March 26              May 7

Flowers:
Miniature Roses

Miniature Rose
Miniature roses are dwarf versions of roses including the classic hybrid teas. Though they are much smaller (12 to
15 inches tall or less), they are surprisingly tough and can be planted outside where they will survive our Kansas winters if mulched. However, many gardeners like to grow the miniatures indoors where they can enjoy them during the drab winter months.

Miniature roses grown as houseplants have specific requirements. For long lasting flowers, air should be moist with a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent preferred though 40 percent is adequate. Placing the pots on a tray that holds moist pebbles will help provide the humidity needed.
 
Like most plants, roses need a lot of light in order to flower. Though miniature roses will survive in a south window, many people will supplement available light with fluorescent lamps. Timers can be used to automatically turn the lights on and off. Providing 14 hours of light per day will be plenty for roses to grow and flower. Lights are normally spaced 3 to 4 inches above the tops of the plants.
 
Probably the most serious pest of these plants indoors is spider mites. These mites are very small but can devastate miniature roses. They like dry, warm conditions. Maintaining adequate relative humidity levels and washing the plants once a week in tepid water will help prevent problems. If mites do develop, try using an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (2 percent rate) for control. The horticultural oil will probably be more effective than the soap. Be sure to spray or wash the entire plant including the underside of the leaves so that all mites are contacted.
 
Miniature roses can be placed outdoors during the summer to take advantage of higher light levels. Do not place the plant in full sun immediately but gradually grant more light over a period of several weeks. Pots sunk in the ground will not need to be watered as often as those exposed. Turn the pot 180 degrees every couple of weeks to break off any roots that escape the pot and move into the underlying soil.
 
Miniature roses are not the easiest plants to grow as houseplants but can be well worth the effort required. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Plants Recommended for Kansas

Petunia
If you have had trouble finding a listing of plants recommended for Kansas, visit our web page devoted to this topic. We have links to a wide variety of plants including annual flowers, perennial flowers (including breakouts for iris and daylilies), fruit, vegetables, turfgrass, low-maintenance roses and tree recommendations that are broken out by areas of the state. We also list recommended low water use plants. You can find this page at http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/p.aspx?tabid=731
 
We also have images of hundreds of the following:
 
Varieties of iris and daylilies found in the University Gardens Collection Gardens at http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/ksugardens/p.aspx?tabid=38
 
Annual flowers recommended for Kansas at  http://www.prairiestarflowers.com/Prairie_Star_nav.html
 
Perennial flowers at  http://www.prairiestarflowers.com/Prairie_Bloom_nav.html   (Ward
Upham)
 
Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 18

5/5/2015

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Video of the Week:
Hydrangea: Macrophylla

Fruit:
Peaches and Apricots

Peaches
Many parts of Kansas will have a peach and apricot crop that wasn’t badly hurt by late frosts. To take advantage of this good fortune certain things should be done as the fruit matures to ensure a good harvest.

Control insects and diseases: Though it is too late to control peach leaf curl (see http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc3168.ashx), it is possible to control scab and brown rot. Insects of concern are plum curculio, oriental fruit moth, plant bugs, and stink bugs. Use Captan or Immunox to control the diseases, and malathion to control the insects. Spray every 10 to 14 days. Pay attention to the waiting period between the last spray and harvest. See the publication, “Fruit Pest Control for Home Gardens” at http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/c592.pdf for details including organic controls.

Thin peaches: Thin peaches to 1 every 6 to 8 inches to maximize fruit size and to decrease the load on the branches. As a general rule, we need about 40 leaves per peach for maximum quality. Peaches are borne in clusters, so calculate how many a branch can support by dividing the length of the branch in inches by 7. As long as there is an average of 7 inches of branch length per peach, it doesn’t matter whether the peaches are in clusters or not.

Water Trees as Needed: The most critical time for adequate water is during the pit hardening stage which usually lasts between 2 to 4 weeks. Cut open a few peaches to determine when the pit starts to harden or become woody. Irregular watering during this period can lead to split peaches.

Prop up branches if needed: Prop up branches if the fruit load is so heavy the tree may break apart. Use boards with a “V” cut in one end to support the branch. Prune the branch back to a smaller side branch next spring (March). (Ward Upham)

Fruit Sprays and Spray Water pH

apple
Two of the common pesticides used in fruit tree sprays are malathion (for insects) and captan (for diseases). Unfortunately, both of these products are subject to alkaline hydrolysis. This is a process whereby certain
pesticides will break down when mixed with high pH water. So let’s say you mix up your spray mixture by adding malathion and captan to 5 gallons of water. If that water has a pH of 7, the captan will break down so that
only half of it will still be present in 8 hours. However, if the water you use has a pH of 10, half the captan will break down in 2 minutes. Malathion isn’t nearly as sensitive but still will break down under high pH conditions
though it is stable at a pH between 5 and 7. Note that alkaline hydrolysis does not affect all pesticides. Captan is the exception, not the rule. For a listing of common pesticides and their susceptibility to alkaline hydrolysis, see
http://ecommons.library.cornell.edu/bitstream/1813/5149/1/FLS-118.pdf

So how do you bring down the pH of your spray water if it is high? Commercial people use buffering agents but that may be difficult for homeowners to find. Food grade citric acid can help. If you have a pH of 8.0, add 2 ounces of this citric acid per 100 gallons of water (1 and 1/4 teaspoons per 10 gallons) to bring the pH down to about 5.5. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Protecting New Vegetable Transplants from the Wind

tomato transplant protection
New transplants, even those hardened off in a cold frame, may need protection from strong winds when set out. Wooden shingles placed to block the wind used to be the standard recommendation but are now difficult to find. Try a plastic milk jug or a 2-liter soda bottle with both the bottom and top cut off. Push the jug or bottle into the soil
far enough so it won’t blow away. In windy conditions, it may need to be stabilized with a wooden dowel or metal rod. (Ward Upham)

Rabbits in the Garden

rabbit fencing
Rabbits in gardens are a perennial problem because of the wide variety of plants they can feed on. This time of year, they gravitate to young vegetables and flowers. But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers, and some peppers. The question is how do you protect other, more susceptible plants? Fencing provides a quick and effective control method. The fence does not need to be tall; 2 feet is sufficient for cottontails. But the mesh must be sufficiently fine (1 inch or less) so young rabbits will not be able to go through it. Support for the fence can be supplied by a number of products, but electric fence posts work well.

Often fencing is not an acceptable choice because it affects the attractiveness of the garden. Other ways to control rabbits including repellents, trapping and shooting. Repellents are often suggested for control but often do not last long and require frequent reapplication. Also, many are poisonous and cannot be used on plants or plant parts destined for human consumption. Live traps can be used to collect and move the rabbits to a rural area several miles from where they were trapped. A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap including a
tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together with a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.

Another possibility is to use a motion-activated sprinkler. These are attached to a garden hose and release a short burst of water when motion is detected. Contech, Orbit and Havahart are suppliers and each is advertised as protecting up to at least 1,000 square feet. Shooting is another possibility when it is safe and legal to do so. (Ward Upham)

Family Heritage Gardening

Iris
Thank you all for allowing me to be on hiatus for the last 6 months or so. I’ve been busy doing a little cultivating and growing of my own. On October 6, 2014 my husband, Russell, our son Henry, and I welcomed a new Boyer into our lives. Naming our little girl has been a joy-filled journey. It’s also been one of significant meaning for both
sides of our family as well as a nod to the passion I share with you monthly. Would you like to hear about our amble down the garden path of naming our child?

Everyone, by all accounts, loved my husband’s grandmother. He has fond memories of spending time with her as a young child before she lost her battle with lung cancer in 1990. She had a passion for gardening, which she loved to share with her family. In particular, she had an expansive iris collection, one that her children continue in her honor at their own homes. They made sure to collect rhizomes from her favorite varieties before the homestead was sold many years ago. She was also known for planting a tree for each of her grandchildren so that as they grew, their tree grew as well. My husband says that she and I would have gotten along famously and that if he ever had a little girl, she would share his grandmother’s name: Lola.

Our baby’s middle name is in honor of my grandfather. Yes, I said grandfather. It’s a good story, too. The 7th of 9 children, Grandpa was born on a cold February day in 1927 near Minco, Oklahoma. This was the eve of the Great Depression, a time when funds were often few and far between for many Americans. It was no different for the Kuhlman family, so when the time came for grandpa to be born, a midwife came to assist. My grandfather’s parents, humble German immigrants, couldn’t afford to pay this wonderful woman. A family friend and neighbor, the midwife was full of grace and kindness. Her response to their inability to pay her $3 delivery fee was “That’s okay. Just name the baby after me.” They promised to do so and when the baby came out a boy, they honored their commitment. His name is John Rose Kuhlman.

All three of these people have left legacies worthy of honor. Lola was a caretaker and an all around loving person. John is a man of strong faith whose calling card is a nod to his horticultural moniker. And Rose’s generosity is the stuff, well, legends are made of. I guarantee there were a lot of babies born near Minco with her name—we didn’t think her story should go quietly into the night. We chose to honor their lives and memories in the naming of our daughter.

Meet Lola Rose Boyer. She has quite the heritage surrounding her name. I plan to share my passion for gardening with her and hope that she finds as much delight in it as I do and her namesakes before me.

Have you gardened in honor of a family member? If, like Lola, you would like to have a collection of plants from the same genus who share cultivar names with your loved ones, consider iris, daylily, rose, daffodil, hibiscus, or mum. In fact, a search at http://allthingsplants.com for “Lola” revealed Iris ‘Lola’s Delight’ and Echeveria ‘Lola’ (a succulent sedum variety). A search for my own name revealed several cultivars of iris, daylily, mum and dahlia. If I remember correctly, the mums I bought two years ago were ‘Spicy Cheryl’. Heh heh. Food for thought anyway. I think it will be fun to hunt for cultivars containing “Lola” (and other family member names) as I shop for plants in the coming years.

How have you celebrated a loved one with gardening? Have you planted their favorite plants? Regularly chosen their favorite color? Looked for plants that share their name in the cultivar? Planted a tree for them? Whichever way you choose to honor your loved ones, do it with joy and please, share their legacy with others. (Cheryl Boyer)

Pests:
Sawfly Larvae on Ash

ash sawfly larvae
We had a report last week from one of our entomologists, Bob Bauernfeind, that a number of ash trees have ash sawfly larvae feeding on the leaves. We are now getting numerous reports from around the state of noticeable damage so be on the lookout. These sawfly larvae are a light green color with a broad, whitish stripe on the top side.
In the middle of the whitish stripe there appears to be a darker green stripe that is actually the digestive tract of the insect. Though sawfly larvae resemble caterpillars, they have at least six pairs of "stublike" prolegs behind the three pairs of true legs on their abdomen. (Caterpillars never have more than five pairs of prolegs.)

There are usually no detrimental effects to the health of the tree if nature is allowed to run its course. Even if all the leaves are eaten, it is early enough in the growing season for trees to put out a complete new set of leaves and still has enough time to make all the food reserves needed to survive the coming winter. However, if control is desired, a number of insecticides can be used for control including cyfluthrin (Bayer Lawn and Garden Multi-Insect Killer), malathion, esfenvalerate (Monterey Bug Buster II) and Sevin. An effective organic product is spinosad (Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew; Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray). Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are also effective because of the soft skin of sawfly larvae. (Ward Upham)

Elm Pocket Gall

Elm pocket gall
The Elm Pocket Gall is produced by small mites that belong to the genus Eriophyes. The green to reddish, elongated galls are produced on the upper surface of American elm leaves. Gall growth is perpindicular to the surface of the elm leaf.

Mites overwinter in bark crevices of the host as fertilized females. In the spring, females stimulate gall growth by injecting saliva into new elm leaves and mites move into galls through open pores on the underside of the leaf. Several generations are completed during the summer. The last generation of the year is produced when the leaf tissue hardens in the fall. Galls cause little damage to the host plant so control is rarely warranted. (Ward Upham)

Aphids

aphids
Aphids are small insects, about an eighth of an inch long. They are soft-bodied, pear-shaped and of many colors, such as green, black, gray, yellow or red. Some are winged during certain times of the year. Aphids feed by sucking sap from buds, leaves, twigs and developing fruit. Most of that sap is passed through their body and ejected through
two small “pipes” known as cornicles that project from the rear of their bodies. This ejected, sticky material is called honeydew. This honeydew often becomes black with sooty mold fungus. Automobiles parked under trees with large aphid populations will often be spotted with honeydew. Though the finish will not be harmed by the honeydew, it is a hassle to clean off.

Aphids usually are controlled effectively by nature. Adverse weather conditions such as beating rains and low temperatures, as well as fungus diseases, insect predators and parasites, keep the aphids in check. Aphid enemies include lady beetles, syrphid fly larvae, aphis lions and small wasp parasites known as braconids.

Most insecticide applications destroy beneficial insects as well as pests and leave trees or shrubs unprotected if pest resurgence occurs. Because beneficial insects play an important role in natural aphid control, try washing aphids away with a forceful stream of water (if practical) before using insecticide sprays.

If control measures are warranted, use insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, malathion, cyfluthrin or permethrin. Reapplication may be needed. Imidacloprid (Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control, 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect Control, Max Tree and Shrub Insect Control, Bonide Systemic Granules IC, Bayer Tree and Shrub Insect Control) is a systemic insecticide that can be used to prevent aphid populations from building but must by applied early to allow time for the pesticide to move to the new growth. This time period may vary from one week to three months
depending on the size of the plant with very large trees taking the most time. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Blackspot of Roses

Blackspot of roses
A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungus disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop.

The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (>85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F) and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water.

Cultural practices are the first line of defense.
1. Don't plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. For a list of blackspot resistant varieties, go to: http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/weeklypics/3-22-04.html
2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works well with roses.
3. Plant roses in sun in areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet.
4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum.

If needed, protect foliage with a regular spray program (10- to 14-day schedule) ) of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs), myclobutanil (Immunox, Immunox Plus), triticonazole (Ortho Rose & Flower Disease Control) and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Fungicide, Garden Disease Control, others). (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Cheryl Boyer, Nursery Specialist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

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