​Onions are ready to harvest when about half the plants have tops that have fallen over. This is a sign that the onions are mature and need to be pulled out of the ground. Bulbs may sunburn without the foliage to protect them. The secret to onions keeping well is to allow the tops to dry completely before storage. Move onions to a shaded, well-ventilated area after harvest.

After tops are completely dry, store in a cool, dry location. Large-necked onions take more time to dry than small-necked onions such as Bermuda types. Avoid storage in plastic bags because the lack of air circulation will shorten storage life. Use an open, mesh bag instead. (Ward Upham)

​This is the time of year that onions grow and develop rapidly. Regular watering (if needed) and a light fertilization are helpful to maximize growth. Onions develop so that as much as 2/3 of the bulb remains out of the soil. There is normal and there is no need to cover the bulb with soil.
  
Some varieties of onions are nearing harvest time when the tops begin to fall over. Others may not be ready to harvest for about a month.  You may wish to break over the tops that haven’t fallen to encourage drying of the neck. Allow a few days to pass and then dig the onions to insure they don’t sunburn. Temporarily store them in a dry, well-ventilated area for a week or two before cutting the tops to insure the necks are completely dry. Remove the foliage (or braid the leaves) and store in a cool, dry location. (Ward Upham)

Onion types: Onions bulb in response to daylength and are classified as short-day, intermediate-day and long-day plants.  Onions classified as short-day are triggered to bulb earlier than intermediate-day plants and intermediate-day plants are triggered to bloom earlier than long-day varieties.  Intermediate-day onions are best adapted to Kansas conditions if you are looking for large onions. We can also grow short-day varieties but bulbs will be smaller than if they were grown further south because the plants are still small when they are triggered to bulb.
 
Varieties: If you wish to grow large onions, choose an intermediate type such as Candy, Red Candy Apple or Super Star.
 
Sets or plants:  Though onions can be grown from seed if started inside, we are too late to raise seed-grown plants this year. Therefore, we must grow them from sets or plants.  Sets are most often unnamed and will produce smaller onions. Therefore, don’t use sets but rather plants of one of the three varieties mentioned above or of another intermediate-day type.
 
Fertilizing: Onions have shallow root systems and need good, even moisture and adequate fertilizer to develop large bulbs. Fertilize according to soil test and work the fertilizer into the soil before planting.  If a soil test hasn’t been done, use a complete, balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet.  Actually, any fertilizer with the three numbers being similar will work; just follow the directions on the bag to determine how much to use.
 
Onions respond well to sidedressing (fertilizing a second time) about 3 weeks after the plants have started to grow. Use a fertilizer composed primarily of nitrogen such as nitrate of soda (16-0-0). This fertilizer may be applied at the rate of 2 pounds (about 4 cups) per 100 feet of row. High nitrogen lawn fertilizers such as a 27-3-3, 30-3-4, 29-5-4 or something similar are also good choices, but the rate should be 1 pound (2 cups) per 100 feet of row. Do not use lawn fertilizers that contain weed killers or weed preventers.
 
Planting: Space plants 4 inches apart to provide adequate room for bulb expansion.  Set plants 1 to 1.5 inches deep. Rows can be spaced 12 to 16 inches apart or whatever is convenient.
 
Care: Keep the planted weeded to reduce competition. Water once per week if no rain.  Onions should be ready for harvest around the first half of July.  (Ward Upham)

Great Plains Growers Conference
January 12, 13 & 14, 2017
St. Joseph, MO
For more information, go to  http://www.greatplainsgrowersconference.org

​
​Horticulture 2016 Indexed
 
All of the articles published in Horticulture 2016 are now indexed according to subject. Indexing by subject is a very time consuming undertaking. One of our Johnson County Extension Master Gardeners, Carole Brandt, has completed this task for us the last nine years. Many thanks to Carole in making these past articles much easier to find. You can access the list at  http://tinyurl.com/jb68hbv . (Ward Upham)

 It can be difficult to find specific onion varieties in sets or transplants, so growing from seed may be a preferred option. Onions are one of the first plants to be seeded for transplanting because this crop takes a significant amount of time (6 to 8 weeks) to reach transplant size and because they can be set out relatively early (late March in much of eastern and central Kansas). Therefore, we want to start onions in mid- to late-January. Onion seed should be placed ½ to 3/4 inch apart in a pot or flat filled with a seed starting mix.
 
Place the container in a warm (75 to 80 F) location until young seedlings emerge. Move to a cooler location (60 to 65 F) when the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall. Make sure they have plenty of light, using florescent lights if needed. Start fertilizing when the seedlings reach 2 to 3 inches tall using a soluble fertilizer with each or every other watering.
 
Onion seedlings tend to be spindly with the remains of the seed sticking to the end of a leaf for several weeks. Encourage stockiness by trimming the ends of the leaves when the plants reach 4 to 5 inches tall. Start hardening off the onions in early March by moving the plants to a protected outdoor location. You may have to move them inside temporarily to protect them from extreme cold snaps. (Ward Upham)

The extreme cold on December 18 and 19 have people concerned. The 18th (Sunday) was the coldest with a low temperature of -13 degrees in Manhattan. This would not be a concern if there had been consistently cold temperatures earlier. However, the previous Friday our low was 28 degrees. Fortunately, earlier in the week, temps were in the low teens.  I think that our trees had been hardened off enough they will be fine but I’m not sure.
 
Many of you remember the November 10, 2014 freeze when the temperature dropped from 69 degrees to 19 overnight.  Damage to trees was spotty and varied but very noticeable. Most trees showed no damage at all.  However, an apricot tree in my orchard lost a large branch while another apricot 20 feet away was fine.
 
Also, damage may not show up right away. We saw all of the following.
 
- Trees died over winter and didn’t leaf out in the spring.
 
- Trees leaved out and then either all the tree or a portion of the tree died seemingly overnight.
 
- Trees looked stressed and then either recovered or died either in 2015 or, in some cases, 2016.
 
- Trees lost bark but continued to bear leaves until the tree suddenly died. This often occurred late in 2015 or they survived until 2016 and then died.
 
So, what happened in 2014? I think this is all related to damage to the living tissue under the bark. The sharp drop in temperature killed at least a portion the phloem and the cambium. Remember the phloem carries food made in the leaves to all parts of the plants including the roots. The cambium produces new phloem as well as xylem. Xylem will be discussed later. Now that the phloem is dead and the cambium cannot produce new, living phloem, the roots don’t receive the food needed to survive and eventually starve to death.
 
Why didn’t these trees die immediately? First of all, a healthy root system has stored energy reserves that it can use to keep the tree alive. When those reserves are depleted, the tree dies very quickly. However, a tree also needs water. Since the living portion of the trunk was killed, wouldn’t this stop water flow? Actually, it would not. This is due to how a tree grows and, specifically, how xylem works. Xylem is the structure that carries water from the roots to the top portions of the plant. Even in perfectly healthy trees, most of the xylem is dead. This dead xylem forms hollow tubes that carry the vast majority of water and nutrients throughout the plant.

Though there are living xylem cells, the contents of those cells make them inefficient in moving water. Therefore, the functional portion of the xylem wasn’t hurt by the freeze because it was already dead. Since this xylem system still works, the tree can live for quite a period of time until the roots starve.
 
Does that mean a tree with cracking or lost bark will die? It all depends on how much of the living tissue under the bark was killed. If only a small portion was killed then the tree may recover. If the entire circumference was killed, it is done for and there isn’t anything you can do to save it.
 
Again, I think our trees were hardened off enough to escape damage but it is a “wait and see” situation.  (Ward Upham)

Paperwhites are a form of daffodil that do not require a chilling period in order to bloom. Therefore, they are very easy to force and bring in to bloom.  Following are the steps needed.
 
• Use a 3 to 4-inch decorative container that does not have drainage holes. It should be transparent enough
that you can see the water level in relation to the bulbs.
 
• Place 1 to 2 inches of washed gravel, marbles, glass beads or stones in the bottom of the container. We will call the
material chosen as “media” for the remainder of the article.
 
• Place the bulbs on the media so that they are near one another. Add enough media to hold them in place.
 
• Add enough water that the bottom of the bulb is sitting in water. Do not submerge the bulb. Maintain the water at this level.  It normally takes 4 to 8 weeks for the bulbs to bloom.
 
Unfortunately, paperwhites often become leggy and fall over. Growing in cooler temperatures (60 to 65 degrees) can help but there is another trick that can be useful and involves using a dilute solution of alcohol. No, this trick did not come from an unknown source on the Internet but Cornell University’s Flower Bulb Research Program. They suggest the following to obtain a plant that is 1/3 shorter than normal. Flower size and longevity are not affected.
 
• Grow the bulbs as described above until the shoot is green and about 1 to 2 inches above the top of the bulb.
 
• Pour off the water and replace it with a 4 to 6% alcohol solution.

• Use this solution instead of water for all future waterings.
 
There are two methods to add this solution. The first is to add the alcohol solution to what is already in the container. Add enough to bring it up to the proper level. The second will give shorter plants. In this second method, pour off all the old solution and replace it with the new each time additional solution is needed.
 
So, how do we make the alcohol solution? An easy way is to use rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol is usually 70% alcohol and should be mixed with 1 part alcohol with 10 or 11 parts water.
 
Do not use beer or wine as the sugars present can interfere with normal growth.
 
The researchers were not sure why this worked but suggested the alcohol made it more difficult for the plants to take up water. This water stress stunted growth but did not affect the flowers. (Ward Upham)

January is often a cold and dreary month for many gardeners. However, planning for and starting vegetables and flower transplants from seed can make this a much more interesting time of year.
 
Following are the steps needed to be successful in seed starting.
 
Purchase Recommended, Quality Seed: Start by taking a look at our recommended varieties at
http://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/L41.pdf . These plants have proven themselves across the state of Kansas and this is a good place to start when deciding what to plant. However, also talk to your neighbors, friends and garden center about what has worked well for them. Obtain your seeds from a reputable source including garden centers and seed catalogs. If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year.  Though most seed remains viable for about 3 years, germination decreases as seed ages. See the accompanying article on using old garden seed for more detailed information.
 
Determine the Date to Seed: There are two pieces of information that needs to be known in order to determine the date to seed transplants: the target date for transplanting outside and the number of weeks needed to grow the transplant. The target date for transplanting the cool-season crops such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and onions are the end of March to the beginning of April.
 
Warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers and most annual flowers are usually planted about May 10. There is a companion article in this newsletter listing common plants and the number of weeks needed to grow a transplant.  Northern Kansas may be a week or so later than
 
Sowing Seed: Do not use garden soil to germinate seed as it is too heavy and may contain disease organisms. Use a media made especially for seed germination.

Keep Seed Moist: Seed must be kept moist in order to germinate. Water often enough that the media never dries. Using a clear plastic wrap over the top of the container can reduce the amount of watering needed. Remove the wrap after the seedlings emerge.
 
Light: Most plants will germinate in either darkness or light but some require darkness (Centurea, Larkspur, Pansy, Portulaca, Phlox and Verbena) and others require light (Ageratum, Browallia, Begonia, Coleus, Geranium, Impatiens, Lettuce, Nicotiana, Petunia and Snapdragon).
 
All plants require adequate amounts of light once emergence occurs. South facing windows may not provide adequate amounts and so fluorescent fixtures are often used. Suspend the lights 2 to 4 inches above the top of the plants and leave the lights on for 16 hours each day.
 
Temperature: The temperature best for germination is often higher than what we may find in our homes especially since evaporating moisture can cool the germination media. Moving the container closer to the ceiling (top of a refrigerator) can help but a heating mat is best for consistent germination. A companion article lists common plants and their optimum germination temperature. After plants have germinated, they can be grown at a cooler temperature (65 to 70 degrees during the day and 55 to 60 degrees at night). This will help prevent tall, spindly transplants.
 
Plant Movement: Plants react to movement. Brushing over the plants with your hand stimulates them to become stockier and less leggy. Try 20 brushing strokes per day. However, brushing will not compensate for lack of light or over-crowding. Plants grown under inadequate light will be spindly regardless of any other treatment.
 
Hardening Transplants: Plants grown inside will often undergo transplant shock if not hardened off. Plants are hardened off by moving them outside and exposing them to sun and wind before transplanting occurs. Start about two weeks before transplanting and gradually expose the plants to outside conditions. Increase the number of hours and degree of exposure over the two-week period. (Ward Upham)

Seed stores best if kept in a cold, dark, dry location. We normally consider seed will remain viable for about 3 years under these conditions though there are exceptions. For example, members of the carrot family (carrots, parsnips and parsley) are short-lived and are usually good for only 1 to 2 years. If you are unsure of viability and have plenty of seed, there is an easy method of determining how good your seed is. Place 10 seeds on a paper towel moistened with warm water and cover with a second moistened towel. Roll up the towels and place inside a plastic bag with enough holes for air exchange but not so many that the towels dry quickly. Place the bag in a warm place such as the top of a refrigerator. Remoisten towels with warm water as needed. After the first week, check for germination. Remove sprouted seed and check again after another week. Add these numbers together to determine the percent germination. (Ward Upham)

July 26       K-State Bedding Plant Field Day, Olathe
 
July 30       K-State Research & Extension Center Horticulture Field Day, Olathe
http://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/horticulture-field-day.html
 
August 4   Kansas Turfgrass Field Day, Manhattan
https://turffieldday.eventbrite.com

Onions are ready to harvest when about half the plants have tops that have fallen over. This is a sign that the onions are mature and need to be pulled out of the ground. Bulbs may sunburn without the foliage to protect them. The secret to onions keeping well is to allow the tops to dry completely before storage. Move onions to a shaded, well-ventilated area after harvest.
 
After tops are completely dry, store in a cool, dry location. Large-necked onions take more time to dry than small-necked onions such as Bermuda types. Avoid storage in plastic bags because the lack of air circulation will shorten storage life. Use an open, mesh bag instead. (Ward Upham)

​If you have vegetables that are blooming but not setting fruit, you may have a problem with flower pollination. There are several possible reasons for this that usually vary by species. One condition that can affect several species at the same time is overfertilization. Too much nitrogen causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Overfertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers produced.  Tomatoes are very sensitive to this.  If you have nice, large plants but no fruit, check your fertilization.
 
Squash, cucumbers, watermelon, and muskmelon can have a couple of other problems. First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male. The production of both male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes. You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom. If you have both, have not overfertilized, and still have a problem, make sure you have pollinators. Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants. If you don't see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on only those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators.
 
Make sure you aren't killing the pollinators with overuse of insecticides.  Tomatoes are wind pollinated and therefore not dependent on pollinators. But they have another possible problem, which is temperature. Tomatoes normally won't set if the night temperature is below 50 due to sparse pollen production.  This, of course, is only a problem early in the season.  However, they also won't set when nighttime temperatures are above 75 degrees F and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees F with dry, hot winds. (Ward Upham)

If you have tomatoes with a sunken, brown leathery patch on the bottom of the fruit, you probably have blossom end rot. Though most common on tomatoes, blossom end rot can also affect squash, peppers and watermelons. Not a disease, this condition is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. It is often assumed that this means there is a corresponding lack of calcium in the soil. This is not necessarily the case, especially in Kansas. Most Kansas soils are derived from limestone, which is partially made up of calcium.  So, what causes blossom end rot?
​
Actually, there are a number of possible causes, especially on tomatoes. Let's look at some of them.
 
- Tomato tops often outgrow the root system during cooler spring weather. As long as it is cool, the root system can keep up. When it turns hot and dry, the plant has a problem, and water — with the calcium it carries — goes to the leaves and the fruit is bypassed. The plant responds with new root growth and the condition corrects itself after a couple of weeks.
 
- Heavy fertilization, especially with ammonium forms of nitrogen, can encourage this condition. Heavy fertilization encourages more top than root growth and the ammonium form of nitrogen competes with calcium for uptake.

- Anything that disturbs roots such as hoeing too deep can encourage blossom-end rot. Mulching helps because it keeps the soil surface cooler and therefore a better environment for root growth.
 
- Inconsistent watering can be a factor. Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Mulching can help by moderating moisture levels over time. You should also avoid damaging roots and watch fertilization. But there are some years you do everything right and the condition shows up due to the weather. In such cases, remember that blossom-end rot is a temporary condition, and plants should come out of it in a couple of weeks. You may want to pick off affected fruit to encourage new fruit formation.
 
Soils with adequate calcium will not benefit from adding additional calcium.  If your soil is deficient in this nutrient, add 1 pound gypsum per 100 square feet.  Gypsum is calcium sulfate and will not affect pH.  Though calcium raises pH, sulfate lowers it and the two cancel each other out.   Even if not needed, gypsum will not hurt anything.
 
We have also found that spraying plants with calcium doesn't work. The fruit's waxy surface doesn't allow absorption of the material and calcium does not move from the leaves to the fruit.
 
Last of all, there are years you can do everything right and still have blossom end rot.  As mentioned above, the condition should correct itself in a couple of weeks.  (Ward Upham)

Potatoes are ready to harvest when the vines are about half dead. Potatoes dug too early have tender skins and are easily bruised. Delaying digging will allow the soil to heat since it is no longer shaded by foliage. High soil temperatures can lead to sprouting potatoes. Allow potatoes to "set" by keeping them in a shady, dry location for a day or so. Move them to a cool, moist environment such as a cellar or cool basement for longer storage. (Ward Upham)

Normally, a healthy lawn can stay dormant for a good 5 weeks and still recover. After the five weeks are up, it is important to keep the crown hydrated because if the crown dies, the plant dies.
 
Apply about 1/4 inch of water every two weeks to hydrate the crown. This will be enough to hydrate the crown but not enough to encourage weed germination and growth.
 
The recommendations differ for a lawn that was overwatered or received so much rain this spring so that it produced a limited root system. Such a lawn may die unless allowed to slowly enter dormancy. This is done by shutting off the water gradually. For example, instead of watering several times a week, wait a week before irrigating. Then don’t water again for two weeks. Thereafter, water every two weeks as described above.
 
If you are wondering if the turf is still alive, pull up an individual plant and separate the leaves from the crown. The crown is the area between the leaves and the roots. If it is still hard and not papery and dry, the plant is still alive. When rains and cooler weather arrive, the turf should come out of dormancy. However, we will probably have to deal with weeds that germinate before the turfgrass grows enough to canopy over and provide enough shade to keep weed seeds from sprouting. (Ward Upham)

The exact time to harvest blackberries varies by cultivar, with thorny blackberries normally ripening earlier than thornless types. But there are some general guidelines to keep in mind when harvesting blackberries. Do not pick blackberries too early or berry size and flavor will be sacrificed.
 
Two major characteristics determining maturity for harvest are fruit color and ease of separation. Blackberries usually
develop a dull, black color with plump, juicy fruitlets as they ripen. The berries soften and produce the characteristic blackberry flavor. Full color often develops before the berries separate easily. Pick the berries by gently lifting with the thumb and fingers. The receptacle, or center part of the fruit, remains in the fruit when blackberries are harvested, unlike raspberries, which leave the receptacle on the bush. Take care not to crush the berries or expose them to the hot sun. When possible, avoid picking berries when they are wet. They'll probably need picking every second or third day. Cool the berries immediately after harvest to extend shelf life. Keep them refrigerated under high relative humidity and use within three to five days. (Ward Upham)

There are three situations we may run into regarding tree leaf loss this summer.  The tree may produce yellow leaves scattered throughout the canopy of the tree, all the leaves on a tree may turn yellow and drop or the leaves may turn brown but stick to the branches.
 
If falling leaves are well distributed throughout the tree and result in a general thinning of the leaves, the problem is not serious.  Trees will often set more leaves in the spring than they can support during the summer. Heat and drought stress will cause the tree to lose leaves that it cannot support with the available soil moisture.  Leaves that drop are most often yellow with no discernible disease spots. However, at times, we can have green leaves drop that appear perfectly healthy.  As long as the leaf drop results in a gradual thinning of the leaves, the tree should be fine if it is kept watered during dry periods.
 
In some cases we may see virtually all of the leaves drop.  Certain trees such as hackberry can drop all of the leaves and enter summer dormancy. We are a bit early for this to occur but may happen later in the summer if the dry, hot weather continues.  Trees that are summer dormant should have supple twigs and healthy buds. Usually, the effect on the health of the tree is very minor and the tree leafs out normally next spring.   As long as the tree has enough stored energy reserves to make it through to next spring, it will survive.  The twigs and buds tell the story.  If the buds die and the twigs become brittle, at least that part of the tree is dead.
 
The last case involves trees that have leaves that die and remain attached to the tree. This can happen seemingly overnight.  In such cases, the tree couldn’t keep up with moisture demands and died quickly.  This year, the cause may be due to excessive rains this spring damaging root systems.   As in the last case, the twigs and buds are the most important clue as to the health of the tree.  As long as the buds are alive and the twigs are supple, do not remove the tree, it still has life.
 
If you limited ability to water and need to prioritize, trees should come first because they are the most difficult and expensive to replace.  They also take the most time to reach an acceptable size.
 
Last week we had a couple of articles on watering trees.  You can find those articles at: http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/2016/June21_2016_25.pdf  (Ward Upham)
 
Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Great Plains Growers Conference
January 7, 8 & 9, 2016
St. Joseph, MO
The Great Plains Growers Conference (GPGC) is a combination of two great conferences:  Great Plains Vegetable Conference and Mid-America Fruit Conference.  The three-day conference features presentations by knowledgeable speakers from throughout the nation. The conference showcases educational information from all five states:  Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska, and South Dakota, along with vegetable specialists and growers from those states.
 
Some of the topics covered this year include: Greenhouse and hydroponic production; honey bees, scaling up worskhop, soil health & management, tree fruits, mushrooms, beginning organic, vegetable IPM, technology, equipment, irrigation, small fruit, advanced organic, cut flower, food safety/GAPS and market ready workshop.
 
The trade show consists of more than 50 exhibitors with the latest seeds, supplies, equipment, and grower information.  There will be ample opportunities to visit with other growers, exhibitors, and speakers.
 
For more information,  http://www.greatplainsgrowersconference.org
 
61st Annual Shade Tree Conference
January 13-15, 2016
Ramada Downtown, Topeka,KS
http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc4428.ashx
 
RetailWorks
February 4, 2016
Manhattan, KS
 
Horticulture 2015 Indexed
All of the articles published in Horticulture 2015 are now indexed according to subject. Indexing by subject is a very time consuming undertaking. One of our Johnson County Extension Master Gardeners, Carole Brandt, has completed this task for us the last eight years. Many thanks to Carole in making these past articles much easier to find. You can access the list at  http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc4424.ashx. (Ward Upham)

It can be difficult to find specific onion varieties in sets or transplants, so growing from seed may be a preferred option. Onions are one of the first plants to be seeded for transplanting because they take a significant amount of time (6 to 8 weeks) to reach transplant size and because they can be set out relatively early (late March in much of eastern and central Kansas). Therefore, we want to start onions in mid- to late-January. Onion seed should be placed ½ to 3/4 inch apart in a pot or flat filled with a seed starting mix. Place the container in a warm (75 to 80F) location until young seedlings emerge. Move to a cooler location (60 to 65 F) when the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall. Make sure they have plenty of light, using florescent lights if needed. Start fertilizing when the seedlings reach 2 to 3 inches tall using a soluble fertilizer with each or every other watering.
 
Onion seedlings tend to be spindly with the remains of the seed sticking to the end of a leaf for several weeks. Encourage stockiness by trimming the ends of the leaves when the plants reach 4 to 5 inches tall. Start hardening off the onions in early March by moving the plants to a protected outdoor location. You may have to move them inside temporarily to protect them from extreme cold snaps. (Ward Upham)

January is often a cold and dreary month for many gardeners. However, planning for and starting vegetables and flower transplants from seed can make this a much more interesting time of year. Following are the steps needed to be successful in seed starting.
 
Purchase Recommended, Quality Seed: Start by taking a look at our recommended varieties at http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=731  These plants have proven themselves across the state of Kansas and this is a good place to start when deciding what to plant. However, also talk to your neighbors, friends and garden center about what has worked well for them. Obtain your seeds from a reputable source including garden centers and seed catalogs. If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year.
 
Though most seed remains viable for about 3 years, germination decreases as seed ages. See the accompanying article on using old garden seed for more detailed information.
 
Determine the Date to Seed: There are two pieces of information that needs to be known in order to determine the date to seed transplants: the target date for transplanting outside and the number of weeks needed to grow the transplant. The target date for transplanting the cool-season crops such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and onions are the end of March to the beginning of April.
 
Warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers and most annual flowers are usually planted about May 10. There is a companion article in this newsletter listing common plants and the number of weeks needed to grow a transplant.
 
Sowing Seed: Do not use garden soil to germinate seed as it is too heavy and may contain disease organisms. Use a media made especially for seed germination.
 
Keep Seed Moist: Seed must be kept moist in order to germinate. Water often enough that the media never dries. Using a clear plastic wrap over the top of the container can reduce the amount of watering needed. Remove the wrap after the seedlings emerge.
 
Light: Most plants will germinate in either darkness or light but some require darkness (Centurea, Larkspur, Pansy, Portulaca, Phlox and Verbena) and others require light (Ageratum, Browallia, Begonia, Coleus, Geranium, Impatiens, Lettuce, Nicotiana, Petunia and Snapdragon).
 
All plants require adequate amounts of light once emergence occurs. South facing windows may not provide adequate amounts and so fluorescent fixtures are often used. Suspend the lights 2 to 4 inches above the top of the plants and leave the lights on for 16 hours each day.
 
Temperature: The temperature best for germination is often higher than what we may find in our homes especially since evaporating moisture can cool the germination media. Moving the container closer to the ceiling (top of a refrigerator) can help but a heating mat is best for consistent germination. A companion article lists common plants and their optimum germination temperature. After plants have germinated, they can be grown at a cooler temperature (65 to 70 degrees during the day and 55 to 60 degrees at night). This will help prevent tall, spindly transplants.
 
Plant Movement: Plants react to movement. Brushing over the plants with your hand stimulates them to become stockier and less leggy. Try 20 brushing strokes per day. However, brushing will not compensate for lack of light or over-crowding. Plants grown under inadequate light will be spindly regardless of any other treatment.
 
Hardening Transplants: Plants grown inside will often undergo transplant shock if not hardened off. Plants are hardened off by moving them outside and exposing them to sun and wind before transplanting occurs. Start about two weeks before transplanting and gradually expose the plants to outside conditions. Increase the number of hours and degree of exposure over the two-week period. (Ward Upham)
 
Using Old Garden Seed
Seed stores best if kept in a cold, dark, dry location. We normally consider seed will remain viable for about 3 years under these conditions though there are exceptions. For example, members of the carrot family (carrots, parsnips and parsley) are short-lived and are usually good for only 1 to 2 years. If you are unsure of viability and have plenty of seed, there is an easy method of determining how good your seed is. Place 10 seeds on a paper towel moistened with warm water and cover with a second moistened towel. Roll up the towels and place inside a plastic bag with enough holes for air exchange but not so many that the towels dry quickly. Place the bag in a warm place such as the top of a refrigerator. Remoisten towels with warm water as needed. After the first week, check for germination. Remove sprouted seed and check again after another week. Add these numbers together to determine the percent germination. (Ward Upham)

Paperwhites are a form of daffodil that do not require a chilling period in order to bloom. Therefore, they are very easy to force.  Following are the steps needed.
 
- Use a 3 to 4-inch decorative container that does not have drainage holes.  It should be transparent enough that you can see the water level in relation to the bulbs.
 
- Place 1 to 2 inches of washed gravel, marbles, glass beads or stones in the bottom of the container.  We will call the material chosen as “media” for the remainder of the article.
 
- Place the bulbs on the media so that they are near one another.  Add enough media to hold them in place.
 
- Add enough water that the bottom of the bulb is sitting in water.  Do not submerge the bulb. Maintain the water at this level.
 
It normally takes 4 to 8 weeks for the bulbs to bloom.
 
Unfortunately, paperwhites often become leggy and fall over.  Growing in cooler temperatures (60 to 65 degrees) can help but there is another trick that can be useful and involves using a dilute solution of alcohol.  No, this trick did not come from an unknown source on the Internet but Cornell University’s Flower Bulb Research Program.  They suggest the following to obtain a plant that is 1/3 shorter than normal.  Flower size and longevity are not affected.
 
- Grow the bulbs as described above until the shoot is green and about 1 to 2 inches above the top of the bulb.
 
- Pour off the water and replace it with a 4 to 6% alcohol solution.
 
- Use this solution instead of water for all future waterings.
 
There are two methods to add this solution.  The first is to add the alcohol solution to what is already in the container.  Add enough to bring it up to the proper level.  The second will give shorter plants.  In this second method, pour off all the old solution and replace it with the new each time additional solution is needed.
 
So, how do we make the alcohol solution?  An easy way is to use rubbing alcohol.  Rubbing alcohol is usually 70% alcohol and should be mixed with 1 part alcohol with 10 or 11 parts water.
 
Do not use beer or wine as the sugars present can interfere with normal growth.

The researchers were not sure why this worked but suggested the alcohol made it more difficult for the plants to take up water.  This water stress stunted growth but did not affect the flowers. (Ward Upham)

The following information was adapted from the North Carolina State Publication titled
“Starting Plants from Seeds,” HIL-8703

* Number of weeks before transplanting to seed.
** Temperature in degree F
 
Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate
 
To view Upcoming Events:  http://tinyurl.com/fswqe

K-State Bedding Plant Field Day
Tuesday, July 21, 2015
For more information, go to: http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc4321.ashx

K-State Research & Extension Center
Horticulture Field Day
See what grows best in KC!
Saturday, July 25
8:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
35230 West 135th St., Olathe
Tickets: $5.00 each (purchase at gate)
* Annual Flowers
* Cool Classes
* “Walk and Talk” with K-State experts
* Vegetable Trials                    

Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day
Thursday, August 6, 2015
For more information, go to:  Turf Field Day

The exact time to harvest blackberries varies by cultivar, with thorny blackberries normally ripening earlier than thornless types. But there are some general guidelines to keep in mind when harvesting blackberries. Do not pick blackberries too early or berry size and flavor will be sacrificed. Two major characteristics determining maturity for harvest are fruit color and ease of separation.

Blackberries usually develop a dull, black color with plump, juicy fruitlets as they ripen. The berries soften and produce the characteristic flavor. Full color often develops before the berries separate easily. Pick the berries by gently lifting with the thumb and fingers. The receptacle, or center part of the fruit, remains in the fruit when blackberries are harvested, unlike raspberries, which leave the receptacle on the bush. Take care not to crush the berries or expose them to the hot sun. When possible, avoid picking berries when they are wet. They'll probably need picking every second or third day. Cool the berries immediately after harvest to extend shelf life. Keep them refrigerated under high relative humidity and use within three to five days. (Ward Upham)

The wet weather we have seen in some areas has caused a great deal of brown rot on stone fruits such as peaches and plums.  Affected fruit develop a gray to brown, fuzzy growth on the fruit which may rot in as little as a day or two.  It is best to start treating fruit about a month before harvest but spraying is still helpful even if we are within that one month period.  Fruit that shows symptoms cannot be saved but should be destroyed to prevent further spread. 

Use Captan or myclobutanil (Immunox) for control.  Many fruit tree sprays contain Captan but check the label to be certain.  Apply Captan or Immunox every 7 to 14 days.  Both products can be applied up to the day of harvest.

Note that though Immunox is labeled for fruit but Immunox Plus is not.  (Ward Upham)

We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather.

There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum.

Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection. The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't get your seeding or overseeding rates too high.

Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (Bayer Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Remember that more often than not the turf will recover from brown patch. (Ward Upham)

Onions are ready to harvest when about half the plants have tops that have fallen over. This is a sign that the onions are mature and need to be pulled out of the ground. Bulbs may sunburn without the foliage to protect them. The secret to onions keeping well is to allow the tops to dry completely before storage. Move onions to a shaded, well-ventilated area after harvest.  

After tops are completely dry, store in a cool, dry location. Large-necked onions take more time to dry than small-necked onions such as Bermuda types. Avoid storage in plastic bags because the lack of air circulation will shorten storage life. Use an open, mesh bag instead. (Ward Upham)

It seems the official sweet corn inspector should be the raccoon as they seem to harvest the sweet corn the day before it is to be picked. The only effective control measure I have had success with for larger plantings is the electric fence. Here are some suggestions based on my experience. Other designs may very well work but this is what has worked in my garden.

– Two or more wires must be used. Place the first about 5 inches above the ground and the second 4 inches above the first (or 9 inches above ground). Raccoons must not be able to crawl under, go between or go over the wires without being shocked.

– Fence posts used for electric fences work well for this application (go figure), as do the insulators used to support the electric wire.

– It is much easier to use the woven electric wire with strands of wire embedded than to use a solid metal wire. The woven wire is easier to bend around corners and to roll up when done for the year.

– Though both the plug-in and battery operated fencers work, the battery operated types allow more versatility in where corn is grown. One set of batteries is usually sufficient for the season.  In my case, I pull the battery out of an old tractor that is not used often. It will also last the season if fully charged at the beginning. My fencer is probably on for a total of a month.

– Start the charger before the corn is close to being ripe. Once raccoons get a taste of the corn, they are more difficult to discourage.

– Control weeds near the wire. Weeds can intercept the voltage if they touch a wire and allow raccoons entry beyond the weed.

– Check the wire occasionally to make sure you have current. This can be done easily (but unpleasantly) by touching the wire. There are also tools that will measure the voltage available for sale. They are worth the money.  (Ward Upham)

Corn earworm tends to be a problem every year on sweet corn in Kansas. The earworm moth lays eggs on developing silks at night. When the egg hatches, the larva crawls down the silk and into the ear. Feeding starts at the tip of the ear and works down. Though several earworms may hatch and attack a single ear, only one is usually present at harvest due to the cannibalistic nature of the insect. Control is challenging as silks continue to grow over a period of time. This means that even if silks are treated, new silk will appear that hasn't been protected.  Applications every 2 to 3 days are needed for insecticides to be effective, especially in late June to early July when peak flight of these moths usually appear.

There is a three-week period from silking to harvest, but there is only a two-week period from when the silks appear to when they begin to dry. Since moths prefer juicy silks and shun those that have started to dry, insecticides are only needed the first two weeks of silking.

Homeowners can use cyfluthrin (Baythroid; Bayer Powerforce Multi-Insect Killer) or spinosad (SpinTor; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew; Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Leafminer Spray). Spinosad is an organic product. Commercial growers have additional choices including zeta-cypermethrin (Mustang Max), bifenthrin+zeta-cypermethrin (Hero), spinetoram (Radiant) and flubendiamide (Belt).

Though more time consuming, mineral or other light horticultural oils may also be used. The oil is placed inside the silk end of the ear with a medicine dropper (½ to 3/4 of a dropper) after the silks brown. This will coat the earworms already present and likely suffocate them, though some damage to the tip of the ear will likely have occurred. Applying the oil before the silk has browned may interfere with pollination, leading to incompletely filled ears. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
 
To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe

Onions are ready to harvest when about half the plants have tops that have fallen over. This is a sign that the onions are mature and need to be pulled out of the ground. Bulbs may sunburn without the foliage to protect them. The secret to onions keeping well is to allow the tops to dry completely before storage. Move onions to a shaded, well-ventilated area after harvest. After tops are completely dry, store in a cool, dry location. Large-necked onions take more time to dry than small-necked onions such as Bermuda types. Avoid storage in plastic bags because the lack of air circulation will shorten storage life.  Use an open, mesh bag instead. (Ward Upham)

Potatoes are ready to harvest when the vines are about half dead. Potatoes dug too early have tender skins and are easily bruised. Delaying digging will allow the soil to heat because it is no longer shaded by foliage. High soil temperatures can lead to sprouting potatoes. Allow potatoes to "set" by keeping them in a shady, dry location for a day or so. Move them to a cool, moist environment such as a cellar or cool basement for longer storage. (Ward Upham)

Tomato stems sometimes develop “warts” or “bumps” on the stems close to ground level.  Though this looks abnormal, the condition is natural and not harmful. 

These bumps can eventually give rise to roots (called adventitious roots) if conditions are favorable. This is actually the mechanism the plant uses to form roots when tall, leggy plants are planted in a trench. Some varieties tend to be more prone to this condition than others and stress such as that produced by waterlogged soils also makes a “warty” stem more likely. Growth regulator type herbicides such as 2,4-D can also induce this state. So if you see a warty stem, don’t be concerned. The bumps will not harm the plant in the least. (Ward Upham)

Corn earworm tends to be a problem every year on sweet corn in Kansas. The earworm moth lays eggs on developing silks at night. When the egg hatches, the larva crawls down the silk and into the ear. Feeding starts at the tip of the ear and works down. Though several earworms may hatch and attack a single ear, only one is usually present at harvest

Control is challenging as silks continue to grow over a period of time. This means that even if silks are treated, new silk will appear that hasn't been protected. Applications every 2 to 3 days are needed for insecticides to be effective, especially in late June to early July when peak flight of these moths usually appear.

There is a three-week period from silking to harvest, but there is only a two-week period from when the silks appear to when they begin to dry. Since moths prefer juicy silks and shun those that have started to dry, insecticides are only needed the first two weeks of silking.

Homeowners can use cyfluthrin (Baythroid; Bayer Powerforce Multi-Insect Killer) or spinosad (SpinTor; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew; Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Leafminer Spray).  Spinosad is an organic product. Commercial growers have additional choices including zeta-cypermethrin (Mustang Max), bifenthrin+zeta-cypermethrin (Hero), spinetoram (Radiant) and flubendiamide (Belt).

Though more time consuming, mineral or other light horticultural oils may also be used. The oil is placed inside the silk end of the ear with a medicine dropper (½ to 3/4 of a dropper) after the silks brown. This will coat the earworms already present and likely suffocate them, though some damage to the tip of the ear will likely have occurred. Applying the oil before the silk has browned may interfere with pollination, leading to incompletely filled ears. (Ward Upham)

If you plan on using a grub preventative on your lawn, the first half of July is a good target date for most products. Preventatives are normally used on areas that have had a history of grub problems. Traditional grub insecticides such as Dylox orcarbaryl (Sevin) are normally applied in late July after grubs are present or as a rescue treatment once damage is seen. Products that contain Merit (imidacloprid) are considered grub preventers. Actually, neither product prevents grubs, but rather they kill grubs when they are quite small, and long before they cause damage. Merit is safer to use around pets and humans than traditional grub killers. Merit can be found in Bayer's Season-Long Grub Control, Grub No-More, and Grub Free Zone.

Another grub preventer with the trade name GrubEx contains chlorantraniliprole. Though this product is very effective, it is less water soluble than imidacloprid. It should be applied earlier, preferably April or May, but applications through June should still be effective. Remember, all grub products should be watered in soon after application. (Ward Upham)

What a foundation is to a house, so a root system is to a plant.  Yet the root system is often overlooked even when it is easy to check as with potted plants.  So how do you check the root system of a potted plant?  The first step is to knock the plant out of the pot.

Place your hand over the top of the pot with the stem of the plant passing between two of your fingers.  Turn the pot upside down and tap the edge of the pot against the edge of a table, counter or other hard surface.  The plant should release and come out.

A healthy root system will typically have white roots or at least roots with white tips.  The roots should be visible along the outside of the rootball and should reach the bottom of the pot. Unhealthy roots will be blackened and may have a slimy appearance and foul smell.  Also, an unhealthy root system often does not reach the bottom of the pot.  By far the most common cause of an unhealthy root system is overwatering.

Water by touch, not by calendar. If the soil is dry an inch deep, it is time to water.  An alternative method is to water by weight, if practical.  Lift the pot after a good, deep watering to determine the weight of the well-watered plant.  Then use the “dry an inch deep” method to determine when it is time to water.  Check the weight of the plant at that time.  This will give you an idea of the difference between a well-watered plant and one that is ready for more water.  The time between waterings will vary tremendously between summer with its long days and active plant growth and winter with cooler days, shorter days and little to no growth.

Be sure to add enough so that some water flows out the bottom of the pot. This will help wash out excess salts that tend to accumulate within the potting soil. 

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

If you have vegetables that are blooming but not setting fruit, you may have a problem with flower pollination. There are several possible reasons for this that usually vary by species. One condition that can affect several species at the same time is overfertilization. Too much nitrogen causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Overfertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers produced.

Squash, cucumbers, watermelon, and muskmelon can have a couple of other problems. First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male. The production of both male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes. You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom. If you have both, have not over-fertilized, and still have a problem, make sure you have pollinators. Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants. If you don't see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on only those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators. Make sure you aren't killing them with overuse of insecticides.

Tomatoes are wind pollinated and therefore not dependent on pollinators. But they have another possible problem, which is temperature. Tomatoes normally won't set if the night temperature is below 50 due to sparse pollen production. They also won't set when nighttime temperatures are above 75 degrees F and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees F with dry, hot winds. (Ward Upham)

Next year's strawberry crop will be affected by what you do to this year's strawberry bed. The sooner after harvest the patch is cleaned up, fertilized and irrigated, if possible, the better the chance of getting a good crop next year. One of the main goals in renovation is to provide a high level of sunlight to plant leaves so they can manufacture the food the plant needs. If leaves have disease spots, remove all the leaves in the bed. Removing these diseased leaves and weeds will cause new, non-diseased leaves to develop and remove competition from weedy plants. Hedge shears or even a mower can be used. Be sure the mower blade is high enough to avoid the strawberry crowns.

It is also important to reduce the number of strawberry plants so they do not compete for light, moisture and nutrients. If you have a small bed, you can hoe out or pull some plants so they are spaced about 4 to 6 inches apart. On large beds, adjust a rototiller so you can till between the rows, and cut each row back to about 10 inches wide.

The next step is to fertilize the plants with about 3/4 to 1 pound (3 to 4 cups) of a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or an equivalent on each 25 feet of row. If a soil test shows adequate levels of phosphorus and potassium, use 3/4 pound (1.5 cups) of a 16-0-0 (nitrate of soda) fertilizer per 25 feet of row instead. If nitrate of soda is unavailable, use the lawn fertilizer that contains about 30% nitrogen such as a 30-0-3, 28-0-3 or something similar. Make sure the lawn fertilizer does not contain a weed killer or preventer. These fertilizers should be used at the rate of 3/4 cup per 25 feet of row.

The next step is to irrigate to wash the fertilizer into the soil and provide moisture for the rapid growth of the strawberry plants. When the soil is dry, apply about 1 inch of water. A garden sprinkler can do a good job applying the water.

Controlling weeds and watering throughout the summer are important so plants are vigorous when fruit buds begin to develop in September and October. (Ward Upham)

Looking to add a bit of whimsy to your garden this year? I was recently on the hunt for a tree with interesting features that are a bit Dr. Seuss-like. You know, weeping habit, curvy trunks, pom-pom ball pruning…the whole nine yards.  I thought I’d share my finds with you in case you’ve got a curious child in your life that would really enjoy a fun plant.
I’m always interested in the actual plants, of course, but I think it’s interesting and worth noting how they grow the way they grow. Most interesting cultivars or varieties of ornamental plants are discovered by unusual growth called  “sports,” originate from a “witch’s broom,” involve unique traits on a seedling, hybrid or plant breeding resulting in polyploidism (bigger flowers, bigger fruit, but often brings sterility and cross fertilization incompatibility). However those unique traits are found, they are generally cloned (vegetative cuttings) and grafted onto more stable roots.

Of course there are always unique ways of pruning plants into topiaries as well, but let’s get into the plants.

If you’re looking all for a weeping tree, there are lots of choices. For starters, the redbud is a great plant for our region. You can’t go wrong with dark pink flowers in the spring and large, glossy, heart-shaped leaves in the summer.   Add a weeping feature and you’re in business. Popular weeping cultivars of redbud (Cercis canadensis)( are ‘Lavender Twist’ and ‘Ruby Falls.’ The latter has red/purple leaves in the summer.

Other deciduous weeping trees include Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum ‘Ryussen’), Mimosa (Albizia julibrissin ‘Pendula’), River Birch (Betula nigra ‘Summer Cascade’), European Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus ‘Pendula’), and Baldcypress (Taxodium distichum ‘Cascade Falls’ or ‘Falling Water’) just to name a few. Evergreen weeping plants can range from our native Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana ‘Pendula’) to Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus  libani ‘Pendula’) and Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca Pendula’).

How about splendiferous plants with contorted stems and leaves? Corkscrew Willow (Salix matsudana ‘Tortuosa’) is a wonderful deciduous tree that fits the description. It’s just fascinating to look at all of the curly branches and stems. But this is a willow and it needs to be planted a good distance from your house and any water features. The roots of willow can be fairly invasive when looking for water sources.

In the shrub category, there is Harry Lauder’s Walkingstick (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’). This is a fantastic plant for winter interest. In the summer it can be difficult to notice the uniquely contorted stems when the leaves cover the plant, but it’s a great specimen to bring some Dr. Seuss to leafless days. In the annuals category, a great plant for container gardens is Soft Rush (Juncus effusus). With cultivars like ‘Curly Wurly’, ‘Spiralis’ and ‘Unicorn’ you can be assured that someone will ask you about it.

How about pom pom type growth? Allium bulbs are great for this effect. They send up a single stalk with a round inflorescence at the top in spring and summer. There are many types with features ranging from size of the inflorescence, height of the stalk and color (purple to white). Smaller annual plants like Gomphrena have pom pom type inflorescences that are smaller, but more prolific. Great for containers or flower beds!

These plants are mostly what I’d call “specimen” plants and may be more difficult to find in the nursery than others. You may have to special order or mail order some of them, but they’re available. Hunting for plants for your Dr. Seuss plant collection or garden might just be the fun endeavor you’ve been looking for lately. (Cheryl Boyer)

Chiggers are mites, not insects. And like all mites, the adults have eight legs.  However, the larva only has six legs.

Though the bright red female adult is tiny (about 1/20th of an inch) the larva is much smaller (about 1/150th of an inch). Only the larvae are parasitic and attack animals. The larva injects digestive juices into the skin, which causes a rapid swelling. In the center of the swelling is a "feeding tube" from which the chigger sucks out liquefied skin cells. Feeding usually continues for 2 to 4 days.

Protection from chiggers uses two approaches. The use of a repellent can discourage chiggers from attacking. The most effective repellents are Deet and permethrin. Both are applied to clothing. The second approach seeks to reduce chigger populations. Keeping the lawn mowed regularly can help, but large populations may require the use of an acaricide. Effective products include bifenthrin (Talstar, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster Bifenthrin, and Ortho Lawn Insect Killer Granules), cyfluthrin (Tempo 20, Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray) and carbaryl (Sevin). For more information, see the K- State Research and Extension publication titled, “Chiggers” at: http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/MF2107.PDF     (Ward Upham)

Several new publications have been released recently that should be helpful to gardeners.

Harlequin Bug (MF3135) - A destructive pest of vegetable crops, especially the cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.

Japanese Beetle (MF3151) -   Though this insect became established in Kansas in 1992, it remained confined to certain areas of the state for a number of years.  However, populations have been increasing and new areas are becoming infested.   Japanese beetle has a very wide host range (reportedly 300 to 400 plant species) including many vegetables, fruits and ornamentals.

Spotted Wing Drosophila (MF3158) - First detected in Kansas in 2013, this pest of fruit can attack a wide variety of small fruit including blackberries, blueberries, boysenberries, raspberries, strawberries, and grapes. Raspberries appear to be more susceptible than blackberries, blueberries, and strawberries.  Tree fruit such as apples, cherries, figs, nectarines, peaches, persimmons, and plums can also be attacked.

Tree and Shrub Problems in Kansas: Diseases, Insects, and Environmental Stresses (MF3132) - We have mentioned this one before but wanted to highlight it again as it is a very valuable resource.  This is a 92-page publication with 116 color images to help with identification. (Ward Upham)

These finger-shaped mushrooms live up to their name.  As they mature, they become extremely foul smelling.  The odor is reminiscent of rotting meat or, in some cases, of what a dog leaves behind after it has done its “business.”

Stinkhorn mushrooms live on dead organic matter such as is found in mulched areas (especially bark mulch), fields or in yards.  The finger-like fruiting body arises from a sac-like structure at the base.  A slimy spore mass eventually develops at the tip of the stalk.  It is the spore mass that causes the odor.  This spore mass also attracts flies which help spread the spores to new areas.

The question always comes up on how to prevent or control these mushrooms.  Since the main part of the fungus, the mycelium, is underground there isn’t anything you can do but remove the mushrooms as they appear.  Remember the mushroom is the fruiting body of the mushroom and it is the mycelium that must be controlled to prevent the mushrooms.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Cheryl Boyer, Nursery Crops Specialist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate