K-State Research and Extension Horticulture Newsletter
  • Newsletters
  • About
  • Contact
  • Pest of the Week

Storing Tender Bulbs for the Winter

10/17/2017

0 Comments

 
0 Comments

Winter Storage of Summer Bulbs

10/11/2017

0 Comments

 
Picture
As winter approaches, we need to start thinking about storage of the bulbs that will not survive Kansas winters. The bulbs of gladiolus, caladium, dahlia, tuberous begonia, calla lily, and canna lily need to be dug and stored so they can be planted next year. Actually, the storage organ of the above plants is not a true bulb. Canna and calla lilies are rhizomes, caladium, and tuberous begonias are tubers, gladiolus is a corm, and dahlia is a tuberous rooted plant.

All of these plants should be dug after frost has at least partially browned the foliage. Then, allow them to dry for about a week in a shady, well-ventilated site such as a garage or tool shed.  Freezing temperatures should be avoided.  Remove any excess soil and pack them in peat moss, vermiculite, or perlite. Make sure the bulbs don’t touch so that if one decays, the rot doesn’t spread. Dusting them with fungicide before storage will help prevent them from rotting.
​
Caladium should be stored between 50 and 60 degrees F. The other bulbs mentioned should be stored as near 40 degrees F as possible. Finding a good spot to store the bulbs may be difficult. Some people place them against a basement wall farthest from the furnace and insulate them so the wall keeps them cool. (Ward Upham)

0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 42

10/18/2016

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
Storing Tender Bulbs for the Winter

Upcoming Events:

Picture
Picture
Kansas Turfgrass Conference in conjunction with KNLA  December 6,7 & 8, 2016
 
Mark the date to attend the Kansas Turfgrass Conference in conjunction with KNLA on December 6, 7 & 8 in Topeka.
     
The conference is an excellent way to learn about turf, nursery and landscape management, visit with old friends, network with new ones, and see all the latest equipment and supplies from local and national vendors.
     
The conference has been approved for Commercial pesticide recertification hours:
1 Core hour       3A - 8 hrs           3B - 9 hrs
     
International Society of Arboriculture CEUS and GCSAA education points will also be available by attending the conference.
     
Download a copy of the program, get exhibitor information, or register online
      http://2016ktf.eventbrite.com

Turfgrass:
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October - Early November

Picture
​Late October to early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October. These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba. Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots in the fall.
     
Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up. Choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow or stop this process.
     
Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above, plus carfentrazone. It will give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures approach 50 degrees. (Ward Upham)

Why Late Lawn Seedings Often Fail

Picture
​We normally recommend that Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue be seeded in September but no later than October 15. Though plantings later than October 15 can be successful, the odds of success diminish as time passes.
     
The problem with late plantings is not that the seed will not come up or that young grass plants are sensitive too cold. Most often, the problem is with rooting. Unless the young grass plants have a fairly extensive root system, the freezing and thawing that takes place during winter heaves plants out of the ground, and they dry out and die.
     
Regardless of when planted, be sure the new lawn is kept watered through the fall. More mature lawns will need less frequent watering but all should go into the winter with moist soil. (Ward Upham)

Tucking Your Lawnmower in for the Winter

Picture
If you are done mowing for the year, be sure to service your mower before putting it away. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals, which usually corrode during the season.  A wire-bristle brush is a good tool for doing this. The battery can then be removed or connected to a battery monitor that will keep it charged over winter. If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected location for the winter (a cool basement works best). Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring.
     
Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:
      * Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
      * Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
      * Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
     * If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
      * Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
      * Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
      * Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.
     
​Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Hardiness of Cool-Season Vegetables

Picture
​Cool-season vegetables vary in cold tolerance, with some able to take colder temperatures than others. Semi-hardy crops can take a light frost but are damaged by temperatures in the mid- to upper-20s. Examples include beets, Chinese cabbage, collards, Irish potatoes, Bibb lettuce, mustard, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, and leaf lettuce. Covering these plants when cold weather threatens can help extend the harvest season.
     
Plants termed “hardy” can take lower temperatures but are damaged when the temperature drops to the low 20s. These include cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, and kale.
     
Certain root crops can essentially be stored outside even after the leaves have been damaged or killed by frost. Beets, carrots, potatoes and turnips can be mulched and harvested as needed until the soil starts to freeze in late November to December.
     
Growing vegetables in Kansas can be a challenge, but we have an extremely long gardening season. We can harvest from early April (asparagus) to early December. Winter is a good time to plan and prepare for next year’s crops. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals
"Apples" on an Ornamental Shrub

Picture
We have had a number of reports of misshapen or fuzzy “apples” developing on a thorny shrub in the landscape. This is most likely flowering quince. Flowering quince is grown for its attractive blooms in the spring. Normally fruit does not develop because frosts prevent fruit formation and plants fruit poorly without cross-pollination. Quince fruit are quite hard but are sometimes mixed with other fruit to make jellies and preserves.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 42

10/20/2015

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
Storing Tender Bulbs for Winter

Turfgrass:
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October - Early November

Henbit and Chickweed
Late October to early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October. These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba. Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots in the fall. Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up.
       
Choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow or stop this process.
       
Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above, plus carfentrazone. It will give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures approach 50 degrees. (Ward Upham)

Tree Leaves and Turf

Leaves on turfgrass
It's that time of year again. Leaves are rapidly falling from deciduous trees so it's a good time to stop and think about options for handling the litter. Although a scattering of leaves won’t harm the lawn, excessive cover prevents sunlight from reaching turfgrass plants.
       
Turf left in this state for an extended period will be unable to make the carbohydrates needed to carry it through the winter.
       
There are options for dealing with the fallen leaves other than bagging them up and putting them out for the trash collector. Composting is a great way to handle the refuse. Compost can then be used in the vegetable garden and flowerbeds. If you do not compost, you can mow leaves with a mulching mower and let shredded leaves filter into the turf canopy. (A side-discharge mower also will work, but it won't shred the leaves as thoroughly.) This method will be most effective if you do it often enough that leaf litter doesn’t become too thick. Mow while you can still see grass peeking through the leaves.
       
You may wonder whether this practice will be detrimental to the lawn in the long run. Research at Michigan State University in which they used a mulching mower to shred up to about one pound of leaves per square yard of lawn (one pound is equal to approximately 6 inches of leaves piled on the grass) for five consecutive years, found no long-term effects of the shredded leaves on turf quality, thatch thickness, organic content of the thatch, or soil test results (pH, nutrients, etc.). If you mow leaves and have a cool-season lawn, it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall (things you should be doing anyway). If you have a warm-season lawn, you can still use this technique but wait to fertilize and core-aerate until next late May or early June. (Ward Upham)

Tucking Your Lawnmower in for the Winter

Lawnmower
If you are done mowing for the year, be sure to service your mower before putting it away. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals, which usually corrode during the season. A wire-bristle brush is a good tool for doing this. The battery can then be removed or connected to a battery monitor that will keep it charged over winter. If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected location for the winter (a cool basement works best). 

Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring. Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:
        * Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
        * Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
        * Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
        * If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
        * Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
        * Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
        * Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.
       
​Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Hardiness of Cool-Season Vegetables

Cool-season vegetable
Cool-season vegetables vary in cold tolerance, with some able to take colder temperatures than others. Semi-hardy crops can take a light frost but are damaged by temperatures in the mid- to upper-20s. Examples include beets, Chinese cabbage, collards, Irish potatoes, Bibb lettuce, mustard, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, and leaf lettuce. Covering these plants when cold weather threatens can help extend the harvest season. Plants termed “hardy” can take lower temperatures but are damaged when the temperature drops to the low 20s. These include cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, and kale.
       
Certain root crops can essentially be stored outside even after the leaves have been damaged or killed by frost. Beets, carrots, potatoes and turnips can be mulched and harvested as needed until the soil starts to freeze in late November to December.  
       
Growing vegetables in Kansas can be a challenge, but we have an extremely long gardening season. We can harvest from early April (asparagus) to early December. Winter is a good time to plan and prepare for next year’s crops. (Ward Upham)

Winter Mulching of Vegetables

Parsnips
We can extend the harvest season of some root crops such as beets, carrots, parsnips, and turnips by mulching to slow down soil freezing. Mulching allows harvest to continue much later than usual (usually mid- to late-December) when even mulched areas freeze hard.
       
Rhubarb is a shallow-rooted perennial crop that can also benefit from mulching to help stabilize soil temperatures. Plants that are not mulched may be heaved out of the ground by alternate freezing and thawing through the winter. Mulching moderates these temperature shifts and helps protect the plant. Mulch should be removed by mid-March so soil warming can encourage early emergence. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Natural Needle Drop on Conifers

Natural needle drop on pines
​We are starting to see very noticeable natural needle drop on some evergreens such as pines and spruce. This is a process where 2- to 4-year-old interior needles turn yellow, then brown, and eventually drop off. Those who aren't familiar with this process often are concerned about the health of the tree. This is a natural phenomenon that occurs every year and does not hurt the tree.
     
However, some years it is much more noticeable than others. Be sure to check that only the older needles are affected --the needles on the tips of the branches should look fine--and that there is no spotting or banding on the needles that are turning yellow. If spotting or banding is noted, take a sample to your local county extension office for diagnosis. (Ward Upham)

My Oaks are Raining Worms

Pin oak leaf
Areas near Wichita, Kansas is receiving calls regarding tiny, white worms falling from pin oak trees. These worms are actually the larvae of the oak vein gall midge. A midge is a very small fly and therefore the larvae are maggots. 
     
The larvae came from the vein galls that are on the pin oak leaves. Newly hatched larvae feed on the veins of young leaves in the spring and cause a swelling and flattening of the veins. These maggots are now dropping to the ground in order to pupate. Adults emerge early the next spring to start the cycle all over again. The midges apparently cause no damage. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Why No Black Walnuts This Year?

Black Walnuts
Many areas of Kansas have noticed a lack of black walnut nuts this year.  This can be traced back to the sharp drop in temperature last fall in which we had a high of 69 degrees on November 10, 2014 followed by a low of 19 the next morning.  Unfortunately, our walnut trees had not hardened off sufficiently by November 10 to protect the flower buds. 
     
Black walnut flower buds are formed during the summer of the year before they bear.  Therefore, what should have been this year’s nut crop set flower buds during the summer of 2014.  When the temperature dropped so quickly in November, the flower buds were damaged resulting in no nuts this year.  However, areas of Kansas that have seen plentiful rains, should have a good walnut crop next year unless we have another sharp drop in temperature before the trees have hardened off.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
  
To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe

0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No.41

10/13/2015

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
Planting Bulbs for Spring Color

Upcoming Events:

​Kansas Turfgrass Conference in conjunction with Kansas Nursery & Landscape Association
December 1, 2 & 3, 2015
Kansas Expocentre, Topeka
For more information, go to  http://www.kansasturfgrassfoundation.com/
 
Great Plains Growers Conference
January 7, 8 & 9, 2016
St. Joseph, MO
 
RetailWorks
February 4, 2016                                                                                            
Manhattan, KS

Turfgrass:
Why Late Lawn Seedings Often Fail

grass seedlings
We normally recommend that Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue be seeded in September but no later than October 15. Though plantings later than October 15 can be successful, the odds of success diminish as time passes.
 
The problem with late plantings is not that the seed will not come up or that young grass plants are sensitive to cold. Most often, the problem is with rooting. Unless the young grass plants have a fairly extensive root system, the freezing and thawing that takes place during winter heaves plants out of the ground, and they dry out and die.
 
Regardless of when planted, be sure the new lawn is kept watered through the fall. More mature lawns will need less frequent watering but all should go into the winter with moist soil. (Ward Upham)        

Flowers:
Winter Storage of Summer Bulbs

frost damaged canna
As winter approaches, we need to start thinking about storage of the bulbs that will not survive Kansas winters. The bulbs of gladiolus, caladium, dahlia, tuberous begonia, calla lily, and canna lily need to be dug and stored so they can be planted next year. Actually, the storage organ of the above plants is not a true bulb. Canna and calla lilies are rhizomes, caladium, and tuberous begonias are tubers, gladiolus is a corm, and dahlia is a tuberous rooted plant.
 
All of these plants should be dug after frost has browned the foliage. Then, allow them to dry for about a week in a shady, well-ventilated site such as a garage or tool shed. Remove any excess soil and pack them in peat moss, vermiculite, or perlite. Make sure the bulbs don’t touch so that if one decays, the rot doesn’t spread. Dusting them with fungicide before storage will help prevent them from rotting.
 
Caladium should be stored between 50 and 60 degrees F. The other bulbs mentioned should be stored near 40 degrees F. Finding a good spot to store the bulbs may be difficult. Some people place them against a basement wall farthest from the furnace and insulate them so the wall keeps them cool. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Nurseries and Garden Centers Marketing Initiatives Survey

We ran this announcement a couple of weeks ago but would like to give everyone another chance to participate.  Note the deadline is October 15, just a couple of days away.
 
Ever wonder if all the time you have spent on marketing initiatives is worth your time? Here’s an opportunity for you to get some answers about marketing efforts by participating in a research project with investigators at Kansas State University. Questions in the survey will focus on marketing practices, their effectiveness, and their economic impact. Results of the survey (available to participants who submit their email address) will benefit nurseries and garden
centers across the country by learning how to reach customers more effectively.

​We invite you to participate in the survey. In addition to helping our industry, there are personal incentives (two chances to win a $50 Amazon.com gift certificate)! Click on the link below ]or copy and paste the URL above into your internet browser[ to get started (works on mobile devices as well). https://kstate.qualtrics.com/SE/?SID=SV_7PXxQRJ56RxLIUt&source=002  (Cheryl Boyer) 

Fall is a Good Time for Soil Testing

soil probe
Though we often think of soil testing as a spring chore, fall can actually be a better time. Soil-testing laboratories are often very busy during the spring resulting in a longer turnaround from submission to recommendations. Also, soils in the spring are often waterlogged, making taking samples difficult. If your soil test suggests more organic matter, fall is a much better season because materials are more available than in the spring, and fresher materials can be used without harming young tender spring-planted plants.
 
Begin by taking a representative sample from several locations in the garden or lawn. Each sample should contain soil from the surface to about 6 to 8 inches deep. This is most easily done with a soil sampler. Many K-State Research and Extension offices have such samplers available for checkout. If you don’t have a sampler, use a shovel to dig straight down into the soil. Then shave a small layer off the back of the hole for your sample. Mix the samples together in a clean plastic container and select about 1 to 1.5 cups of soil. This can be placed in a plastic container such as a resealable plastic bag.
 
Take the soil to your county extension office to have tests done for a small charge at the K-State soil-testing laboratory. A soil test determines fertility problems, not other conditions that may exist such as poor drainage, poor soil structure, soil borne diseases or insects, chemical contaminants or damage, or shade with root competition from other plants. All of these conditions may reduce plant performance but cannot be evaluated by a soil test. (Ward Upham)

Work Garden Soil in the Fall

fall soil preparation
Fall is the preferred time to prepare garden soil for next spring’s vegetable garden. Spring is often wet making it difficult to work soil without forming clods that remain the rest of the season. Fall usually is drier allowing more time to work the soil when it is at the correct soil moisture content. Even if you work soil wet in the fall and form clods, the freezing and thawing that takes place in the winter will break them down, leaving a mellow soil the following spring.
 
Insects often hide in garden debris. If that debris is worked into the soil, insects will be less likely to survive the winter. Diseases are also less likely to overwinter if old plants are worked under. Also, garden debris will increase the organic matter content of the soil. Working the debris into the soil is easier if you mow the old vegetable plants several times to reduce the size of the debris.
 
Fall is also an excellent time to add organic matter. Not only are organic materials usually more available in the fall (leaves, rotten hay or silage, grass clippings) but fresher materials can be added in the fall than in the spring because there is more time for them to break down before planting. As a general rule, add 2 inches of organic material to the surface of the soil and till it in. Be careful not to over till. You should end up with particles the size of grape nuts or larger. If you work garden soil into the consistency of flour, you have destroyed the soil structure. (Ward Upham)

Amending Soils with Sand

concrete mixer
Sand is sometimes suggested as an amendment material for clay soils. However, there is good reason to be cautious about using sand. In order for sand to be effective in breaking up a clay soil, sand grains must touch one another so there are pore spaces between grains that can hold air and/or water. If the grains do not touch, the clay fills in all the voids between the sand particles leaving no room for pores.
 
This is the same principle used to make concrete and the result is somewhat the same. You end up making a bad situation worse. So how much sand does it take for it to be effective? Normally, we consider about 80 percent sand to be sufficient. In most cases this makes the use of sand impractical. The addition of organic matter is a much better choice. (Ward Upham)
 
Contributors: Cheryl Boyer, Nursery Specialist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe

0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 42

10/21/2014

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
Storing Tender Bulbs for the Winter

Turfgrass:
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October - Early November

broadleaf weeds henbit and chickweed
Late October to early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October. These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba. Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots. Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up.

Choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow or stop this process. Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above, plus carfentrazone. It will
give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures approach 50 degrees. (Ward Upham)

Tree Leaves and Turf

leaves on turf
It's that time of year again. Leaves are rapidly falling from deciduous trees so it's a good time to stop and think about options for handling the litter. Although a scattering of leaves won’t harm the lawn, excessive cover prevents sunlight from reaching turfgrass plants.

Turf left in this state for an extended period will be unable to make the carbohydrates needed to carry it through the winter.

There are options for dealing with the fallen leaves other than bagging them up and putting them out for the trash collector. Composting is a great way to handle the refuse. Compost can then be used in the vegetable garden and flowerbeds. If you do not compost, you can mow leaves with a mulching mower and let shredded leaves filter into the turf canopy. (A side-discharge mower also will work, but it won't shred the leaves as thoroughly.) This method will be most effective if you do it often enough that leaf litter doesn’t become too thick. Mow while you can still see grass peeking through the leaves.

You may wonder whether this practice will be detrimental to the lawn in the long run. Research at Michigan State University in which they used a mulching mower to shred up to about one pound of leaves per square yard
of lawn (one pound is equal to approximately 6 inches of leaves piled on the grass) for five consecutive years, found no long-term effects of the shredded leaves on turf quality, thatch thickness, organic content of the thatch, or soil test results (pH, nutrients, etc.). If you mow leaves and have a cool-season lawn, it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall (things you should be doing anyway). If you have a warm-season lawn, you can still use this technique but wait to fertilize and core-aerate until next late
May or early June. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Hardiness of Cool-Season Vegetables

spinach
Cool-season vegetables vary in cold tolerance, with some able to take colder temperatures than others.
Semi-hardy crops can take a light frost but are damaged by temperatures in the mid- to upper-20s. Examples include beets, Chinese cabbage, collards, Irish potatoes, Bibb lettuce, mustard, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, and leaf lettuce. Covering these plants when cold weather threatens can help extend the harvest season.

Plants termed “hardy” can take lower temperatures but are damaged when the temperature drops to the low 20s. These include cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, and kale.

Certain root crops can essentially be stored outside even after the leaves have been damaged or killed by frost. Beets, carrots, potatoes and turnips can be mulched and harvested as needed until the soil starts to freeze in late November to December.Growing vegetables in Kansas can be a challenge, but we have an extremely long gardening season. We can harvest from early April (asparagus) to early December. Winter is a good time to plan and prepare for next year’s crops. (Ward Upham)

Winter Mulching of Vegetables

parsnips
We can extend the harvest season of some root crops such as beets, carrots, parsnips, and turnips by mulching to slow down soil freezing. Mulching allows harvest to continue much later than usual (usually mid- to late-December) when even mulched areas freeze hard.

Rhubarb is a shallow-rooted perennial crop that can also benefit from mulching to help stabilize soil temperatures. Plants that are not mulched may be heaved out of the ground by alternate freezing and thawing through the winter. Mulching moderates these temperature shifts and helps protect the plant. Mulch should be removed by mid-March so soil warming can encourage early emergence. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
What is the "Wild" Shrub with the Bright Red Berries

honeysuckle red berries
People in the eastern half of the state have been reporting shrubs with bright red berries growing wild. The berries are clustered around the stem and the leaves are still a bright green color. These are likely one of two species of bush honeysuckle, Amur or Tatarian. Each species can reach 6 to 20 feet tall.

This landscape shrub has become a serious understory invasive throughout the Midwest from eastern Kansas to Ohio. Many states have it on their noxious weeds list. All of our native honeysuckles are vines, similar to the vining Japanese honeysuckle. Amur and Tatarian honeysuckles are very noticeable in the spring as they put out leaves much earlier than most other trees and shrubs. Leaves also stay green much later into the fall. This long growing season gives it a competitive advantage over other native species, and the vigorous growth can take over a woodland understory, reducing the number of native woodland wildflowers and other shrubs. If you want to promote native species on your property, then controlling bush honeysuckles is needed. Honeysuckle seedlings can be readily hand pulled when the soil is damp. Chemical control is needed for larger infestations, as cutting alone results in vigorous resprouting. Foliar applications of glyphosate (i.e., Roundup) in late summer and fall works well as does applications of Crossbow (2,4-D + triclopyr). Treating cut stumps with Tordon RTU (picloram), or concentrated (20% - 50%) glyphosate is also quite effective. Several studies have shown basal spraying with triclopyr (Garlon) not to be effective, while basal applications with 2,4-D or picloram products work well, using an oil carrier to penetrate the bark. Please follow all label instructions when using pesticides. (Charlie Barden and Ward Upham)

My Oaks are Raining Worms

oak leaf marginal gall
Areas near Wichita, Kansas are receiving calls regarding tiny, white worms falling from pin oak trees. These worms are actually the larvae of the oak vein gall midge. A midge is a very small fly and therefore the larvae are maggots.
The larvae came from the vein galls that are on the pin oak leaves. Newly hatched larvae feed on the veins of
young leaves in the spring and cause a swelling and flattening of the veins. These maggots are now
dropping to the ground in order to pupate. Adults emerge early the next spring to start the cycle all over again. The midges apparently cause no damage. (Ward Upham)

Drip Irrigation for Community Gardens Publication Available

drip irrigation
A new publication that covers using drip irrigation for community gardens is now available. The publications covers low-pressure and high-pressure drip systems, water source and filtration, installation and monitoring soil moisture. You can find it at: http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/MF3124.pdf



Contributors: Charles Barden, Extension Forester; Ward Upham, Extension Associate
0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 41

10/14/2014

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
How to Stake a Tree

Upcoming Events:
Kansas Turfgrass Conference

The 64th Annual Kansas Turfgrass Conference will be held December 2, 3 & 4 at the Kansas Expocentre in Topeka. The conference is an excellent way to learn about turf and landscape management, visit with old friends, network with new ones, and see all the latest and greatest equipment and supplies from local and national vendors.

The conference has been approved for Commercial pesticide recertification hours:
    1 Core hour
    3A - 7 hours
    3B - 10 hours

International Society of Arboriculture CEUS and GCSAA education points will also be available by attending the conference.

For a copy of the program and to register online, go to https://turfconference.eventbrite.com

Turfgrass:
Why Late Lawn Seedings Often Fail

grass seedlings
We normally recommend that Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue be seeded in September but no later than October 15. Though plantings later than October 15 can be successful, the odds of success diminish as time passes.

The problem with late plantings is not that the seed will not come up or that young grass plants are sensitive to cold. Most often, the problem is with rooting. Unless the young grass plants have a fairly extensive root system, the freezing and thawing that takes place during winter heaves plants out of the ground, and they dry out and die.

Regardless of when planted, be sure the new lawn is kept watered through the fall. More mature lawns will need less frequent watering but all should go into the winter with moist soil. (Ward Upham)

Frost on Lawns

frost on lawns
If you have ever walked across a frosted lawn that isn't dormant, you may have noticed your footprints showing up later in the day. Though this is unsightly, it does not kill the turf. Grass blades are damaged but the crown is not. Actively growing turf will often recover after two to four mowings. Damage that occurs this late in the fall will continue to show damage until it is masked by the rest of the lawn turning brown due to cold weather. It is believed that the damage is caused by ice crystals killing plant cells when they are forced into the leaf by the weight of a wheel or foot. Remember to avoid damage by staying off of frosted turf. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Winter Storage of Summer Bulbs

frost damaged canna plants
As winter approaches, we need to start thinking about storage of the bulbs that will not survive Kansas winters. The bulbs of gladiolus, caladium, dahlia, tuberous begonia, calla lily, and canna lily need to be dug and stored so they can be planted next year. Actually, the storage organ of the above plants is not a true bulb. Canna and calla lilies are rhizomes, caladium and tuberous begonias are tubers, gladiolus is a corm, and dahlia is a tuberous rooted plant. All of these plants should be dug after frost has browned the foliage. Then, allow them to dry for about a week in a shady, well-ventilated site such as a garage or tool shed. Remove any excess soil and pack them in peat moss, vermiculite, or perlite. Make sure the bulbs don't touch so that if one decays, the rot doesn't spread. Dusting them with a fungicide before storage will help prevent them from rotting.

Caladium should be stored between 50 and 60 degrees F. The other bulbs mentioned should be stored near 40 degrees F. Finding a good spot to store the bulbs may be difficult. Some people place them against a basement wall farthest from the furnace and insulate them so the wall keeps them cool (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Amending Soils with Sand

small concrete mixer
Sand is sometimes suggested as an amendment material for clay soils. However, there is good reason to be cautious about using sand. In order for sand to be effective in breaking up a clay soil, sand grains must touch one another so there are pore spaces between grains that can hold air and/or water. If the grains do not touch, the clay fills in all the voids between the sand particles, leaving no room for pores.

This is the same principle used to make concrete and the result is somewhat the same. You end up making a bad situation worse. So how much sand does it take for it to be effective? Normally, we consider about 80 percent sand to be sufficient. In most cases this makes the use of sand impractical. The addition of organic matter is a much better choice. (Ward Upham)

Work Garden Soils in the Fall

tilling soil
Fall is the preferred time to prepare garden soil for next spring's vegetable garden. Spring is often wet, making it difficult to work soil without forming clods that remain the rest of the season. Fall usually is drier, allowing more time to work the soil when it is at the correct soil moisture content. Even if you work soil wet in the fall and form clods, the freezing and thawing that takes place in the winter will break them down, leaving a mellow soil the following spring.

Insects often hide in garden debris. If that debris is worked into the soil, insects will be less likely to survive the winter. Diseases are also less likely to overwinter if old plants are worked under. Also, garden debris will increase the organic matter content of the soil. Working the debris into the soil is easier if you mow the old vegetable plants several times to reduce the size of the debris.

Fall is an excellent time to add organic matter. Not only are organic materials usually more available in the fall (leaves, rotten hay or silage, grass clippings) but fresher materials can be added int he fall than in the spring because there is more time for them to break down before planting. As a general rule, add 2 inches of organic material to the surface of the soil and till it in. Be careful not to over till. You should end up with particles the size of grape nuts or larger. If you work garden soil into the consistency of flour, you have destroyed the soil structure. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

    RSS Feed

      Subscribe to the newsletter by entering your e-mail and clicking the link below

    Subscribe

    Archives

    March 2023
    February 2023
    January 2023
    December 2022
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    August 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    December 2021
    November 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014

    Categories

    All
    All America Selections
    All-America Selections
    Amaryllis
    Anthracnose
    Ants
    Aphids
    Apples
    Apricots
    Army-cutworm-moths
    Ash-borer
    Ashes-in-the-garden
    Asparagus
    Bacterial-wilt
    Bagworms
    Bark-shedding
    Beans
    Bermudagrass
    Bird-feeding
    Bitter-cucumber
    Blackberries
    Blackspot
    Black-walnuts
    Blister Beetles
    Blossom End Rot
    Blossom-End Rot
    Blueberries
    Botryosphaeria
    Breaking-dormancy-early
    Breaking-dormancy-early
    Bristly Rose Slug
    Broccoli
    Brownheaded-ash-sawfly
    Brown-patch-on-fescue
    Brown-rot-of-fruit
    Budworms
    Buffalograss
    Bulbs
    Bulb Storage
    Butterflies
    Butterfly Gardening
    Cabbage
    Cabbage Worms
    Caddo Sugar Maples
    Calcareous
    Cantaloupe
    Carpenter Bees
    Cauliflower
    Cedar Apple Rust
    Cherry Leaf Spot
    Chickweed
    Chiggers
    Christmas Cacti
    Christmas Trees
    Cicada
    Cicada Killer Wasps
    Codling Moth Control
    Cold Frames
    Cole Crops
    Colorado Potato Beetle
    Columnar Trees
    Compost
    Conservation Trees
    Container Gardening
    Controlling Volunteer Trees
    Cool Season Vegetables
    Cool-Season Vegetables
    Core Aeration
    Corn Earworm
    Corn Gluten Meal
    Crabapples
    Crabgrass Control
    Crickets
    Crop Rotation
    Cucumber
    Cucumber Beetles
    Daylilies
    Deadheading Flowers
    Dormant-seeding-turfgrass
    Dothistroma Needle Blight
    Drip-irrigation
    Dr-seuss-gardening
    Dutch-elm-disease
    Early Blight
    Eggplant
    Elm Flea Weevil
    Elm Leaf Beetle
    Elm Pocket Gall
    Emerald Ash Borer
    Euonymus Scale
    European Pine Sawfly
    Excessive Rain
    Fall Armyworms
    Fall Colors
    Fall Gardening
    Fall Lawn Seeding
    Fall-webworm
    Family-heritage-gardening
    Fertilizing-cole-crops
    Fertilizing-flowers
    Fertilizing Lawns
    Field-bindweed
    Field Dodder
    Firewood
    Flatid Planthoppers
    Flooding
    Floral Arrangement Care
    Flourescent Lights
    Flowerbed Design
    Flowering
    Frost On Lawns
    Fruit
    Fruit Baskets
    Fruit Damage From Cold
    Fruit Trees
    Fungus Gnats
    Galls
    Garden Hoses
    Gardening Calendar
    Garden Seed
    Garden Spiders
    Garden Tool Care
    Garlic
    Goldenrod Soldier Beetle
    Grapes
    Grasshoppers
    Grass Seed
    Green June Beetles
    Growing Cuttings Inside
    Grubs
    Hackberry Caterpillar Butterflies
    Hackberry Psyllids
    Hardiness
    Harlequin Bug
    Harvesting
    Help For New Gardeners
    Henbit
    Herbicide Damage
    High PH Soils
    Holly
    Hollyhock
    Honeysuckle
    Hornworms
    Horseradish
    Houseplants
    Hydrangea
    Ice Melters
    Invasive Plants
    Iris
    Iron Chlorosis
    Irrigation
    Itch Mites
    Japanese Beetles
    Junipers
    Kansas Garden Guide
    Kentucky Bluegrass
    Knotweed
    Lacebugs
    Ladybird Beetles
    Landscape Design
    Lawn
    Lawn Calendar For Cool Season Grass
    Lawn Calendar For Cool-Season Grass
    Lawn Calendar For Warm Season Grass
    Lawnmower Care
    Lawn Seeding
    Leaf Scorch
    Leaves
    Lettuce
    Lilac
    Lilac Borers
    Little Barley
    Marcescence
    Maximizing Garden Space
    Melons
    Millipedes
    Mimosa Webworm
    Mole Control
    Mouse Damage
    Mowing
    Mulch
    Mums
    Mushrooms
    Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot
    Nantucket Pine Tip Moth
    Native Prairie Flowers
    Needle Drop On Conifers
    New Gardener Resources
    Nightcrawlers
    Nuts
    Oak
    Oak Leaf Itch Mite
    Onions
    Orchids
    Organic Matter
    Organic Sources Of Nitrogen
    Ornamental Grass
    Overseeding Lawns
    Overwintering Geraniums
    Paperwhite Bulbs
    Pawpaw Trees
    Peaches
    Pears
    Peas
    Peonies
    Peony
    Peppers
    Perennial Garden Clean Up
    Perennial Garden Clean-up
    Pesticide Effectiveness
    Pine Wilt
    Planting Calendar
    Plastic Mulch
    Plum
    Poinsettia
    Poison Ivy
    Poisonous Plants
    Pokeweed
    Poor Drainage
    Potatoes
    Powdery Mildew
    Powdery Mildew On Lawn
    Power Raking
    Propagating-woody-plants
    Prop Up Fruit Limbs
    Pruning
    Publications
    Quince
    Rabbits
    Raccoons
    Rain-barrels
    Raspberries
    Recommended-plants-for-ks
    Rhubarb
    Roasting Pumpkin Seeds
    Roots
    Rose
    Rose Rosette
    Roundup For Lawns
    Salad Garden
    Sawfly Larvae
    Scale
    Scale Insects
    Screen Trees
    Sedum
    Seed Germination
    Seed Germination
    Seed Tape
    Septoria Leaf Spot
    Shrub Pruning
    Shrubs
    Sidedressing
    Slime Molds
    Slugs
    Smut
    Soil
    Soil Preparation
    Soil Temperature
    Spider Mites
    Spiders
    Spirea Aphid
    Spittlebugs
    Spray Water PH
    Spreaders
    Spring Bulbs
    Spring Flowering Shrubs
    Squash
    Squash Bugs
    Squash Vine Borer
    Squirrel Damage
    Starting Seed
    Stink Bugs
    Storing Power Equipment
    Storm Damage
    Stratification
    Straw-bale-gardening
    Strawberries
    Succession Planting Of Vegetables
    Sunflowers
    Sunscald
    Survey
    Sweet Corn
    Sweet Potatoes
    Tall Fescue
    Tan/White Drupelets
    Termites
    Thatch Control
    Ticks
    Tomatoes
    Transplant Fertilization
    Tree Health
    Tree Leaves And Turf
    Tree Planting
    Trees
    Tubakia
    Tubakia-leaf-spot
    Turf-in-shade
    Twig-girdlers
    Vegetable-flowersfruit
    Vegetables
    Vegetable Seed
    Vegetable Transplants
    Velvet Ants
    Vinegar As Herbicide
    Walnut Caterpillars
    Warm Fall
    Water Damage
    Watering
    Watermelon
    Water Teepees
    Weeds In Flower Beds
    Weeds In Turf
    Weird Squash
    White Grubs
    Whitelined-sphinx-caterpillar
    Wildflower Establishment
    Wildflower-establishment
    Wildlife
    Wild Violet Control
    Wind Chill
    Winter Damage
    Winterizing Water Lines
    Winter Mulching Vegetables
    Winter Squash
    Wood Chips
    Worms From Oaks
    Yellowjackets
    Yellow Nutsedge

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.