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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 38

9/20/2016

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Video of the Week:
Protecting Fruit Trees from Deer

Flowers:
Time to Plant Spring-flowering Bulbs

Picture
Late September through October is an excellent time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as crocus, tulips, and daffodils. These plants need to develop roots in the fall and must meet a chilling requirement over the winter in order to bloom in the spring.
 
Choose a planting site that has full sun to partial shade. The ideal soil would be a sandy loam, but even poor soils can be used if organic material such as peat moss, compost, or aged bark is mixed in. For example, a heavy clay can be amended by mixing in one-third to one-half organic material. Soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0.
 
Bulbs need good aeration as well as good drainage for proper development. It is best if the bulbs are given 12 inches of prepared soil. If one-third organic material were added, this would require mixing 4 inches of organic material with 8 inches of soil. Incorporate about 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as a 5-10-5 per 100 square feet during preparation or fertilize according to soil test.
 
Planting depths vary depending on the size of the bulbs. For example, tulips and hyacinths are set about 6 inches deep, and daffodils are put 6 to 8 inches deep. Smaller bulbs are planted shallower. As a rule of thumb, bulbs are planted two to three times as deep as their width. Planting depth is the distance from the bottom of the bulb to the top of the soil. Large bulbs are normally spaced 4 to 6 inches apart, and small bulbs about 1 to 2 inches. Planting in clumps or irregular masses produces a better display than planting singly.
 
After placing the bulbs at the proper depth, replace half the soil and add water. This will settle the soil around the bulbs and provide good bulb/soil contact. Add the remaining soil and water again. Although there will be no top growth in the fall, the roots are developing, so soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy. Mulch can be added after the soil has frozen to prevent small bulbs from being heaved out of the soil by alternate freezing and thawing. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Rotation of Vegetable Crops

Picture
Rotating vegetable crops is a standard way of helping prevent disease from being carried over from one year to the next. Rotation means that crops are moved to different areas of the garden each year. Planting the same crop, or a related crop, in the same area each year can lead to a build-up of disease. Also, different crops vary in the depth and density of the root system as well as extract different levels of nutrients. As a rule, cool-season crops such as cabbage, peas, lettuce and onions have relatively sparse, shallow root systems and warm-season crops such as tomatoes, peppers and melons have deeper, better developed root systems. Therefore, it can be helpful to rotate warm-season and cool-season crops.
 
As mentioned earlier, it is also a good idea to avoid planting closely related crops in the same area as diseases may be shared among them. For example, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and eggplant are closely related. Also, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and brussels sprouts share many characteristics in common. Therefore, do not plant cabbage where broccoli was the previous year or tomatoes where the peppers were.
 
So, why is this important to bring this up in the fall?  Now is the time to make a sketch of your garden so that the layout is not forgotten when it is time to plant next year. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Planting Trees in the Fall

Picture
The fall season can be an excellent time to plant trees. During the spring, soils are cold and may be so wet that low oxygen levels inhibit root growth. The warm and moist soils associated with fall encourage root growth. Fall root growth means the tree becomes established well before a spring-planted tree and is better able to withstand summer stresses. However, certain trees do not produce significant root growth during the fall and are better planted in the spring. These include beech, birch, redbud, magnolia, tulip poplar, willow oak, scarlet oak, black oak, willows, and dogwood.
 
Fall-planted trees require some special care. Remember, that roots are actively growing even though the top is dormant. Make sure the soil stays moist but not soggy. This may require watering not only in the fall but also during the winter months if we experience warm spells that dry the soil. Mulch also is helpful because it minimizes moisture loss and slows the cooling of the soil so root growth continues as long as possible. Evergreens should be moved earlier in the fall than deciduous plants. They need at least six weeks before the ground freezes for the roots to become established. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Adding Organic Materials Directly to the Garden

Picture
If the summer weather has brought an early end to your garden, consider adding organic materials directly to the soil rather than composting. Materials such as residue from lawn renovation, rotted hay, or rotted silage can be added and then tilled in. Coarser materials such as tree leaves or garden residue should be shredded. A lawn mower with a bagging attachment can be used to shred this material and collect it in one operation.
 
Organic materials can be spread to a depth of about 3 inches and tilled in. Be sure the soil is not too wet before tilling. During warm weather, the material will decompose quickly and the process can be repeated every two weeks. Later in the fall, it may take longer. This process can be repeated from now until late November to early December.
 
Remember that organic matter helps almost any soil. It improves clay soil by improving tilth, aeration and how quickly the soil takes up water. In sandy soils, it acts as a sponge by holding water and nutrients. (Ward Upham)

Moving Houseplants Inside for the Winter

Picture
Many people with houseplants move some of them outside for the summer to give them better growing conditions and help them recover from the stress of an indoor environment. But as fall approaches and night temperatures approach 50 F, it is time to think about bringing plants inside for the winter. Plants that have spent the summer outside should be inspected for insects and disease before bringing them inside. A sharp spray from a garden hose can remove insects or mites from houseplant foliage. Insects in the potting soil can be forced out by soaking the pot in a tub of lukewarm water for about 15 minutes.
 
Houseplants that have been kept outdoors are accustomed to receiving much more sunlight than they do indoors. So how do we help houseplants acclimatize to the lower light levels inside? Houseplants brought in from outside should be started out in an area of the home that receives plenty of light, and then gradually moved to their permanent, darker location. This process should take four to eight weeks depending on the degree of difference in light levels between the initial and final location of the plant.
 
Understanding plant processes allows us to anticipate potential problems. Acclimatization gives houseplants a greater chance of retaining leaves and avoiding the stress of completely replacing them. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Itch Mites are Back

Picture
Last year was a bad year for itch mites. It looks like 2016 may be bad as well.  These arthropods are responsible for painful bites that result in itching on people. The mites are barely visible to the naked eye but their bite results in a noticeable raised red area with a centralized blister. It normally takes 10 to 16 hours for itching to start after exposure. Unlike chigger bites which are usually restricted to areas where clothing is tight such as belts, underwear or socks, oak leaf itch mite bites appear where clothing is loose such as at the neck, shoulder and chest.
 
Oak leaf itch mites feed on insect larvae living within straw, seeds and plant galls.  In recent outbreaks, itch mites have been feeding on midge larvae which cause gall formation on the margins of certain oak leaves.  Pin oaks are most likely affected but red oaks and black oaks can also act as a host for the midges. The female mite is able to enter the gall through small openings and paralyze the midge larvae with a neurotoxin.  The midge then acts as a food source for the mite allowing her to develop about 200 offspring. It takes about a week for the new mites to emerge. Only about 5 to 10 percent of the progeny are males. The males do not feed but mate and then die.  Females seek new hosts on the existing tree but can be carried by winds for hundred of yards. Mite populations appear in late July and continue through the summer and into the fall.
 
No effective control has been found. Deet-based repellents have not given consistent results. Tree sprays are ineffective as the mites are protected by the galls.  Oak trees known to be infested with mites should be avoided. If work must be done near oak trees with marginal leaf gall, bathing and changing and washing clothing is recommended. This article was adapted from our publication MF2806, “Oak Leaf Itch Mite.” (Ward Upham)
 
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 19

5/10/2016

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Video of the Week:
Cantaloupe: Varieties for Small Spaces

Upcoming Events:
Garden Tour in Kansas City Area

The Johnson County Extension Master Gardeners Public Garden Tour will be held May 20 and 21. Six private gardens will be open to the public. Each garden is unique and has something of interest for gardeners. For more information visit www.johnson.k-state.edu for more information

Vegetables:
'Staggering' Sweet Corn Planting

sweet corn planting
Sweet corn is one of those crops that is only "good" for a few days. If you want longer periods of production, consider staggering the planting. In other words, plant a small block, wait a period of time, and then plant the next block. Though it is tempting to follow a calendar schedule, such as planting a small block every week, it is better to use crop development as a trigger. If you plant on a calendar schedule, you may have noticed that later plantings often catch up with earlier ones. Instead, plant the next block of sweet corn when the previous one is one-half to one inch tall. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Thinning Excess Fruit

apples on tree
Some areas of Kansas have avoided late freezes resulting in a heavy fruit crop this year. At first glance, this might seem to be a good thing. But too many fruit can cause problems that should be alleviated with thinning. For example, a heavy fruit crop can interfere with fruit bud development this summer. This can result in a small to no crop next year. This problem most often appears with apples. Thus, thinning helps ensure that good crops are produced each year.

The second benefit of thinning is to promote larger fruit on this year’s crop. Fruit trees are limited in how many fruit they can mature. Too many fruit and fruit size goes down.

A third problem often caused by too many fruit is limb damage. Sometimes the weight of a maturing fruit crop can literally break branches. Thinning will help limit weight and preserve branches.

So how much thinning should we do? Thinning recommendations vary with the type of tree.

Guidelines for fruit spacing are as follows:
Apples and pears: 4 to 6 inches apart;
Peaches: 6 to 8 inches apart;
Plums and prunes: 4 to 5 inches apart;
Apricots: 2 to 4 inches between fruit.

​These are averages and so you may have several fruit clustered closer than this distance. As long as the average on the branch is close to the recommended spacing, the fruit should size well. Cherries are not thinned and can produce a full fruit load. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Cabbage Worms

cabbage worm
This is the time of year we normally start seeing damage from cabbage worms. The imported cabbage worm is usually the first cabbage worm species to appear and is a fuzzy, elongated green worm. Larvae come from eggs laid by the white butterfly often seen flitting around the plants.

Early control is essential to reduce injury. BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) and spinosad (Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew) are effective organic products that are labeled for this pest. BT can be found in Dipel, Thuricide and other similar materials. Direct sunlight deactivates BT quickly so it is helpful to spray late in the day or on a cloudy day.

​Conventional insecticides such as carbaryl (Sevin), malathion and methoxychlor are also effective but will kill natural enemies of these pests. Be sure to hit the underside of leaves where insects feed. Note that hitting the underside of leaves is easier when using a dust applied with a duster than when using a liquid spray. (Ward Upham)

Bristly Rose Slug

bristly rose slug
This insect has been skeletonizing rose leaves in the Kansas City area. This is not a caterpillar but is the larva of a sawfly. Close examination of this small (½ inch) larva will reveal very fine, hairlike spines in clusters.

Young larvae will remove the green layer of a leaf leaving behind a clear material. As the larvae mature, they make holes in the leaf and eventually may consume all of the leaf but the major veins.

​Since these insects are not caterpillars (larvae of moths or butterflies), BT, found in Dipel and Thuricide will not be an effective treatment. However, a strong jet of water will dislodge the slugs and make it difficult for them to return to the plant. Other effective treatments include insecticidal soap, horticultural oils, spinosad (Fertilome Borer Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew) and permethrin (various trade names). (Ward Upham)

Ladybird Beetles

ladybird beetle larvae
​Both the adults and the larvae of the ladybird beetle are beneficial and do not feed on plants but rather on other insects including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, scale insects and the eggs of various other insects. So if you see these insects, do not spray. The larval form looks like a very small alligator-shaped insect. Larvae are covered with spines, about 3/8-inch long, and black with orange markings. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Vein Pocket Galls on Oak

vein pocket gall on oak leaf
marginal pocket gall on oak leaf
Like last year, we are seeing a high number of oak galls this year, especially vein pocket gall on pin oak leaves. Vein pocket gall causes abnormal swelling of the leaf near the veins.

We also saw an outbreak of oak leaf itch mites last year. This mite feeds on the larvae of the midge fly that actually causes certain types of oak leaf galls. Though the marginal leaf gall is more commonly associated with oak leaf itch mite, the mite can also feed on the larvae in vein pocket galls. However, a large number of vein pocket galls do not necessarily mean we will have an outbreak of oak leaf itch mite like we had last year. This will be a “wait and see” situation.

Actually, there are hundreds of different types of galls, each of which is caused by a specific insect or mite. Insects that can cause different galls on oaks include tiny, nonstinging wasps and flies which cause abnormal growths to develop on the leaves, twigs or branches of oak trees. The galls caused by mites can include growths that are round, spiny, flattened, elongated or star-shaped.

Galls form in response to a chemical that the insect or mite injects into the plant tissue. Eggs laid by a mature female hatch into legless grubs around which the gall forms. The larvae feed, develop, and pupate inside these galls. The adults may emerge either the same season or may overwinter inside the gall depending on the life history of that specific insect.

Generally, these gall insects do not cause significant damage to their hosts, though some of the leaf galls can cause enough deformity to make a tree unsightly. Also, severe infestations of twig galls can cause twig dieback or, rarely, tree death. However, just because a twig is covered with galls does not mean it is dead. I have seen twigs that looked like a solid mass of galls leaf out in the spring.

Insecticide sprays applied when galls are noticed are ineffective because damage has already occurred. Also, larvae are unaffected because of the protection afforded by the gall. Insecticide sprays can kill emerging adult wasps and flies, but long emergence periods and short residuals of most contact insecticides make this impractical. Stem and twig galls can be pruned if this is deemed to be practical and necessary. Fortunately, natural predators and parasites usually bring these insects under control given a year or two. Therefore, the best option is usually to do nothing.

​What about the itch mites? More bad news. We have found nothing can effectively kill or repel these mites. The only means of defense is to avoid contact. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Moving Houseplants Outside for the Summer

houseplant outside
It is often helpful to set many houseplants outside for the summer so they can recover from the low light levels endured during the winter months. As soon as night temperatures stay consistently above 55 degrees F, houseplants can be moved to their summer home. Choose a spot that has dappled shade, is protected from the wind and is close to water. A porch or a spot that receives shade from trees or buildings will work well. Putting houseplants in full sun will cause the leaves to photooxidize or sunburn because the leaves have become adapted to low light levels inside the house. Where possible, sink the pots into the ground to help moderate root temperatures and reduce watering frequency.

​If you have a number of plants, dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep (or deeper if you have larger pots) and long enough to accommodate all of your plants without crowding. Place peat moss under and around the pots. Peat moss holds water, helps keep the pots cool and reduces evaporation from clay pots. About every two weeks, rotate the pots a quarter turn to break off any roots that have penetrated the peat moss surrounding the pot and to equalize the light received on all sides of the pot. Water as needed. If the potting soil is dry a half-inch deep in the pot, it is time to water. (Ward Upham)

Rabbits in the Garden

rabbit
Rabbits in gardens are a perennial problem because of the wide variety of plants they can feed on. This time of year, they gravitate to young vegetables and flowers. But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers, and some peppers. The question is how do you protect other, more susceptible plants? Fencing provides a quick and effective control method. The fence does not need to be tall; 2 feet is sufficient for cottontails. But the mesh must be sufficiently fine (1 inch or less) so young rabbits will not be able to go through it. Support for the fence can be supplied by a number of products, but electric fence posts work well.

Often fencing is not an acceptable choice because it affects the attractiveness of the garden. Other ways to control rabbits including repellents, trapping and shooting. Repellents are often suggested for control but often do not last long and require frequent reapplication. Also, many are poisonous and cannot be used on plants or plant parts destined for human consumption. Live traps can be used to collect and move the rabbits to a rural area several miles from where they were trapped. A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together with a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.

Another possibility is to use a motion-activated sprinkler. These are attached to a garden hose and release a short burst of water when motion is detected. Contech, Orbit and Havahart are suppliers and each is advertised as protecting up to at least 1,000 square feet. Shooting is another possibility when it is safe and legal to do so. (Ward Upham)
​
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter, No. 39

9/29/2014

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Video of the Week:
Storing and Preserving Peppers

Fruit:
Fruit Planting Preparation

tarp over garden plot
If you plan to develop or add to your fruit garden next year, now is a good time to begin preparing the planting site. Grass areas should be tilled so grass does not compete with the fruit plants for soil moisture and nutrients. Have the soil analyzed for plant nutrients. Your local K-State Research and Extension agents have information to guide you in taking the soil sample. From that sample, the agent can provide recommendations on what and how much fertilizer to add to correct nutrient deficiencies. Organic materials such as compost, grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw or dried manure, can be tilled into the soil to help improve its condition. Time and weather conditions generally are more suitable in the fall than in the late winter and spring for preparing soil. If fruit plants can be set by early April, they will have developed a stronger root system to support plant growth than they would if planted later.

If there are only a few plants to be planted, consider tarping each planting area to guard against a wet spring, delaying planting after plants are shipped and received.  (Ward Upham)


Flowers:
Fertilize Spring-flowering Bulbs

tulips
October is the month that existing beds of spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips are fertilized. If bulbs have been fertilized in the past, there is often plenty of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. It is best to use a soil test to be certain. If the soil needs phosphorus and potassium, use a complete fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, 9-9-6, etc.) at the rate of 2.5 lbs. per 100 square feet. This would equal 1 rounded teaspoon per square foot. If phosphorus and
potassium are not needed, blood meal makes an excellent fertilizer. It should be applied at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet or 1 teaspoon per square foot. Turf fertilizers such as a 27-3-3 or 30-3-3 can be used, but cut the rate by a third.   (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Questions on Ornamental Grass

ornamental grasses in the fall
We are starting to receive questions on whether it is best to cut back ornamental grasses in the fall or spring. As a rule, ornamental grasses should not be cut back while green because they need time to move the energy found in the foliage into the roots. Even when browned by cold weather, most gardeners will leave the foliage until spring because of the interest it adds to winter landscapes. Early March is the preferred time to cut back these plants. However, dry foliage is extremely flammable and should be removed in the fall from areas where it is a fire hazard.

Another question we often receive is whether we can divide ornamental grasses in the fall. Spring is the preferred time because divisions done in the fall may not root well enough to survive the winter. (Ward Upham)


Pests:
Itch Mites

pin oak marginal leaf galls
A recent telephone conversation sparks this inclusion in this week’s newsletter. The caller related an uncomfortable situation that was diagnosed as chiggers. Apparently, he was familiar with chiggers and related that his current situation “seemed different.” He then went on to describe his red welts as having tiny, centralized blisters. It had been several years ago, but I recalled something like that from the past. I asked whether he had been around pin oak trees. “Yes, 3 large pin oaks on my property.”        

While I lay no claim to having expertise in medical matters associated with arthropods, I am offering this heads up: it is possible that there will be a rash (pun intended) of reports regarding red welts with a centralized blister.

While people often receive a pleasurable soothing, satisfying relief by itching (for instance a mosquito bite), in this instance, itching is painful.

The causative agent is the oak leaf itch mite (OLIM), Pyemotes herfsi. Refer to Extension Publication MF 2806, Oak leaf itch mite. It details a very interesting relationship between female OLIMs which parasitize the larvae of a midge fly responsible for causing marginal galls on oak leaves.

[Point of interest: the recent caller did not find marginal galls on the leaves, but rather pocket galls along the main veins on the underside of leaves. These vein pocket galls are caused by another type of midge.  It is conceivable that the OLIM parasitized the larvae of these closely-related midge species. It has been suggested that OLIM (perhaps out of necessity) are opportunistic, having been found parasitizing/feeding on the eggs of periodical cicadas.]

When the female OLIMs leave the marginal galls, anybody under the oak tree becomes a prime target. Or, because they are very small and light in weight, the OLIMs are easily carried (by air currents) to more distant places bringing them into people contact. Lastly, people have reported reactions after raking leaves.

Bites are not felt. Rather, itching reportedly begins 10-16 hours after exposure. Also, there apparently are different degrees of sensitivity (between individuals) ranging from no reaction to severe. Consult Extension Publication MF 2806, Oak leaf itch mite for relief remedies from oak leaf itch mite bites.  (Bob Bauernfeind)


Miscellaneous:
Fall a Good Time for Soil Testing

soil testing tools
Though we often think of soil testing as a spring chore, fall can actually be a better time. Soil-testing laboratories are often very busy during the spring resulting in a longer turnaround from submission to recommendations. Also, soils in the spring are often waterlogged, making taking samples difficult. If your soil test suggests more organic matter, fall is a much better season because materials are more available than in the spring, and fresher materials can be used without harming young tender spring-planted plants.

Begin by taking a representative sample from several locations in the garden or lawn. Each sample should contain soil from the surface to about 6 to 8 inches deep. This is most easily done with a soil sampler. Many K-State Research and Extension offices have such samplers available for checkout. If you don’t have a sampler, use a shovel to dig straight down into the soil. Then shave a small layer off the back of the hole for your sample. Mix the samples together in a clean plastic container and select about 1 to 1.5 cups of soil. This can be placed in a plastic container such as a resealable plastic bag.

Take the soil to your county extension office to have tests done for a small charge at the K-State soil-testing laboratory. A soil test determines fertility problems, not other conditions that may exist such as poor drainage, poor soil structure, soil borne diseases or insects, chemical contaminants or damage, or shade with root competition from other plants. All of these conditions may reduce plant performance but cannot be evaluated by a soil test. (Ward Upham)


Call "Kansas One Call" Before Digging

digging
Most people don’t know what is buried under their property.  Always call Kansas One Call before planting or setting fence. You may reach them at 811. Actually, people should never dig deeply enough by hand to hit a gas line while planting a tree unless a large tree spade is used.  When hand digging, make the hole just deep enough so that the tree sits slightly above nursery level. To determine the depth of the hole, measure the distance from the root flare (point where trunk and roots meet) to the bottom of the root ball. If the flare isn't visible (very common), remove enough soil or media so that it is.

The width of the planting hole is also very important. It should be two to three times the width of the root ball. Loosening the soil outside the hole so it is five times the diameter of the root ball will allow the tree to spread its roots faster. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Bob Bauernfeind, Entomologist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

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    Little Barley
    Marcescence
    Maximizing Garden Space
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    Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot
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    New Gardener Resources
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    Onions
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    Organic Matter
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    Ornamental Grass
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    Perennial Garden Clean Up
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    Pesticide Effectiveness
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    Planting Calendar
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    Poor Drainage
    Potatoes
    Powdery Mildew
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    Power Raking
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    Starting Seed
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    Storing Power Equipment
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    Stratification
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    Succession Planting Of Vegetables
    Sunflowers
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    Survey
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    Vinegar As Herbicide
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    Water Damage
    Watering
    Watermelon
    Water Teepees
    Weeds In Flower Beds
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    Weird Squash
    White Grubs
    Whitelined-sphinx-caterpillar
    Wildflower Establishment
    Wildflower-establishment
    Wildlife
    Wild Violet Control
    Wind Chill
    Winter Damage
    Winterizing Water Lines
    Winter Mulching Vegetables
    Winter Squash
    Wood Chips
    Worms From Oaks
    Yellowjackets
    Yellow Nutsedge

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