K-State Bedding Plant Field Day
Tuesday, July 21, 2015
For more information, go to: http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc4321.ashx

K-State Research & Extension Center
Horticulture Field Day
See what grows best in KC!
Saturday, July 25
8:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
35230 West 135th St., Olathe
Tickets: $5.00 each (purchase at gate)
* Annual Flowers
* Cool Classes
* “Walk and Talk” with K-State experts
* Vegetable Trials                    

Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day
Thursday, August 6, 2015
For more information, go to:  Turf Field Day

The exact time to harvest blackberries varies by cultivar, with thorny blackberries normally ripening earlier than thornless types. But there are some general guidelines to keep in mind when harvesting blackberries. Do not pick blackberries too early or berry size and flavor will be sacrificed. Two major characteristics determining maturity for harvest are fruit color and ease of separation.

Blackberries usually develop a dull, black color with plump, juicy fruitlets as they ripen. The berries soften and produce the characteristic flavor. Full color often develops before the berries separate easily. Pick the berries by gently lifting with the thumb and fingers. The receptacle, or center part of the fruit, remains in the fruit when blackberries are harvested, unlike raspberries, which leave the receptacle on the bush. Take care not to crush the berries or expose them to the hot sun. When possible, avoid picking berries when they are wet. They'll probably need picking every second or third day. Cool the berries immediately after harvest to extend shelf life. Keep them refrigerated under high relative humidity and use within three to five days. (Ward Upham)

The wet weather we have seen in some areas has caused a great deal of brown rot on stone fruits such as peaches and plums.  Affected fruit develop a gray to brown, fuzzy growth on the fruit which may rot in as little as a day or two.  It is best to start treating fruit about a month before harvest but spraying is still helpful even if we are within that one month period.  Fruit that shows symptoms cannot be saved but should be destroyed to prevent further spread. 

Use Captan or myclobutanil (Immunox) for control.  Many fruit tree sprays contain Captan but check the label to be certain.  Apply Captan or Immunox every 7 to 14 days.  Both products can be applied up to the day of harvest.

Note that though Immunox is labeled for fruit but Immunox Plus is not.  (Ward Upham)

We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather.

There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum.

Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection. The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't get your seeding or overseeding rates too high.

Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (Bayer Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Remember that more often than not the turf will recover from brown patch. (Ward Upham)

Onions are ready to harvest when about half the plants have tops that have fallen over. This is a sign that the onions are mature and need to be pulled out of the ground. Bulbs may sunburn without the foliage to protect them. The secret to onions keeping well is to allow the tops to dry completely before storage. Move onions to a shaded, well-ventilated area after harvest.  

After tops are completely dry, store in a cool, dry location. Large-necked onions take more time to dry than small-necked onions such as Bermuda types. Avoid storage in plastic bags because the lack of air circulation will shorten storage life. Use an open, mesh bag instead. (Ward Upham)

It seems the official sweet corn inspector should be the raccoon as they seem to harvest the sweet corn the day before it is to be picked. The only effective control measure I have had success with for larger plantings is the electric fence. Here are some suggestions based on my experience. Other designs may very well work but this is what has worked in my garden.

– Two or more wires must be used. Place the first about 5 inches above the ground and the second 4 inches above the first (or 9 inches above ground). Raccoons must not be able to crawl under, go between or go over the wires without being shocked.

– Fence posts used for electric fences work well for this application (go figure), as do the insulators used to support the electric wire.

– It is much easier to use the woven electric wire with strands of wire embedded than to use a solid metal wire. The woven wire is easier to bend around corners and to roll up when done for the year.

– Though both the plug-in and battery operated fencers work, the battery operated types allow more versatility in where corn is grown. One set of batteries is usually sufficient for the season.  In my case, I pull the battery out of an old tractor that is not used often. It will also last the season if fully charged at the beginning. My fencer is probably on for a total of a month.

– Start the charger before the corn is close to being ripe. Once raccoons get a taste of the corn, they are more difficult to discourage.

– Control weeds near the wire. Weeds can intercept the voltage if they touch a wire and allow raccoons entry beyond the weed.

– Check the wire occasionally to make sure you have current. This can be done easily (but unpleasantly) by touching the wire. There are also tools that will measure the voltage available for sale. They are worth the money.  (Ward Upham)

Corn earworm tends to be a problem every year on sweet corn in Kansas. The earworm moth lays eggs on developing silks at night. When the egg hatches, the larva crawls down the silk and into the ear. Feeding starts at the tip of the ear and works down. Though several earworms may hatch and attack a single ear, only one is usually present at harvest due to the cannibalistic nature of the insect. Control is challenging as silks continue to grow over a period of time. This means that even if silks are treated, new silk will appear that hasn't been protected.  Applications every 2 to 3 days are needed for insecticides to be effective, especially in late June to early July when peak flight of these moths usually appear.

There is a three-week period from silking to harvest, but there is only a two-week period from when the silks appear to when they begin to dry. Since moths prefer juicy silks and shun those that have started to dry, insecticides are only needed the first two weeks of silking.

Homeowners can use cyfluthrin (Baythroid; Bayer Powerforce Multi-Insect Killer) or spinosad (SpinTor; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew; Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Leafminer Spray). Spinosad is an organic product. Commercial growers have additional choices including zeta-cypermethrin (Mustang Max), bifenthrin+zeta-cypermethrin (Hero), spinetoram (Radiant) and flubendiamide (Belt).

Though more time consuming, mineral or other light horticultural oils may also be used. The oil is placed inside the silk end of the ear with a medicine dropper (½ to 3/4 of a dropper) after the silks brown. This will coat the earworms already present and likely suffocate them, though some damage to the tip of the ear will likely have occurred. Applying the oil before the silk has browned may interfere with pollination, leading to incompletely filled ears. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
 
To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe

K-State Bedding Plant Field Day
Tuesday, July 21, 2015
For more information, go to: http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc4321.ashx

Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day
Thursday, August 6, 2015
For more information, go to:  Turf Field Day

If you plan on using a grub preventative on your lawn, the first half of July is a good target date for most products. Preventatives are normally used on areas that have had a history of grub problems. Traditional grub insecticides such as Dylox or carbaryl (Sevin) are normally applied in late July after grubs are present or as a rescue treatment once damage is seen. Products that contain Merit (imidacloprid) are considered grub preventers.  Actually, these products do not prevent grubs, but rather kill grubs when they are quite small, and long before they cause damage. Merit is safer to use around pets and humans than traditional grub killers. Merit can be found in Bayer's Season-Long Grub Control, Grub No-More and Grub Free Zone.

Another grub preventer with the trade name GrubEx contains chlorantraniliprole. Though this product is very effective, it is less water soluble than imidacloprid. It should be applied earlier, preferably April or May, but applications through June should still be effective. Remember, all grub products should be watered in soon after application. (Ward Upham)

Slime molds are primitive organisms that are common on turf and mulch. Slime molds are not fungi and are no longer classified as such. They belong to the Kingdom Protista rather than Kingdom Fungi. On turf, you might often see large numbers of small gray, white or purple fruiting structures, called sporangia on leaf blades during cool and humid weather throughout spring, summer, and fall. Affected areas are often several inches to 1 foot in diameter. During wet weather, the fruiting structures may appear slimy. As the structures dry out in hot weather, they become ash gray and break up easily when touched.

Homeowners often are concerned that this is a disease organism that will kill the grass, but slime mold feeds on bacteria, other fungi, and dead organic matter. It simply uses the turf as a structure on which to grow. However, slime mold can damage turf by completely covering leaf blades and interfering with photosynthesis. Chemical control of slime molds is not necessary. Use a broom or a heavy spray of water to dislodge the mold.       

Slime molds on mulch often attract attention because of their bright colors and disgusting appearance. Common names are often quite descriptive. For example, the "dog vomit" slime mold is a bright, whitish color that resembles its namesake. It eventually turns brown and then into a hard, white mass. There is also the "scrambled egg" slime mold, "the yellow blob" slime mold and the "regurgitated cat breakfast" slime mold. Slime molds do not hurt anything, but most people do not find them attractive and want to get rid of them. Simply use a shovel to discard the offensive organism and then stir up the mulch for aeration. (Ward Upham)

Next year's strawberry crop will be affected by what you do to this year's strawberry bed. The sooner after harvest the patch is cleaned up, fertilized and irrigated, if possible, the better the chance of getting a good crop next year. One of the main goals in renovation is to provide a high level of sunlight to plant leaves so they can manufacture the food the plant needs. If leaves have disease spots, remove all the leaves in the bed. Removing, these diseased leaves and weeds will cause new, non-diseased leaves to develop and remove competition from weedy plants. Hedge shears or even a mower can be used. Be sure the mower blade is high enough to avoid the strawberry crowns.

It is also important to reduce the number of strawberry plants so they do not compete for light, moisture and nutrients. If you have a small bed, you can hoe out or pull some plants so they are spaced about 4 to 6 inches apart. On large beds, adjust a rototiller so you can till between the rows, and cut each row back to about 10 inches wide.

The next step is to fertilize the plants with about 3/4 to 1 pound (3 to 4 cups) of a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or an equivalent on each 25 feet of row. If a soil test shows adequate levels of phosphorus and potassium, use 3/4 pound (1.5 cups) of a 16-0-0 (nitrate of soda) fertilizer per 25 feet of row instead. If nitrate of soda is unavailable, use the lawn fertilizer that contains about 30% nitrogen such as a 30-0-3, 28-0-3 or something similar. Make sure the lawn fertilizer does not contain a weed killer or preventer.  These fertilizers should be used at the rate of 3/4 cup per 25 feet of row.  The next step is to irrigate to wash the fertilizer into the soil and provide moisture for the rapid growth of the strawberry plants. When the soil is dry, apply about 1 inch of water. A garden sprinkler can do a good job applying the water.

Controlling weeds and watering throughout the summer are important so plants are vigorous when fruit buds begin to develop in September and October. (Ward Upham)

If you have vegetables that are blooming but not setting fruit, you may have a problem with flower pollination. There are several possible reasons for this that usually vary by species. One condition that can affect several species at the same time is overfertilization. Too much nitrogen causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production.  Overfertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers produced.

Squash, cucumbers, watermelon, and muskmelon can have a couple of other problems. First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male. The production of both male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes. You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom. If you have both, have not over-fertilized, and still have a problem, make sure you have pollinators. Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants. If you don't see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers.

Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on only those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators.  Make sure you aren't killing them with overuse of insecticides.

Tomatoes are wind pollinated and therefore not dependent on pollinators. But they have another possible problem, which is temperature. Tomatoes normally won't set if the night temperature is below 50 due to sparse pollen production. They also won't set when nighttime temperatures are above 75 degrees F and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees F with dry, hot winds. (Ward Upham)

A “miller moth" is an all-inclusive umbrella term used to describe any plain brown drab moth.  At this time of year, the "miller moths"  are army cutworm moths, Euxoa auxillaris.

Upon close examination, army cutworm moths definitely are not plain, brown or drab. There are 5 morphological forms (varieties) of army cutworm moths. Each possesses its own intricate and distinctive wing pattern. Adding more to the visual array, brown forms of each variety are males, whereas grayish individuals are females.

The seasonal life history begins in the fall of the year when moths deposit eggs in the soil in fields of fall-seeded wheat, alfalfa stands and weedy fields/patches. Eggs may hatch within several days of being deposited  but may be delayed under unfavorable/dry conditions. Larvae preferably feed during the dark of night and seek shelter in the soil during daytime hours. Army cutworms overwinter as partially grown larvae.

Each year in the Central Plains states, overwintered army cutworm larvae resume their feeding as temperatures moderate and become warmer. They complete their development toward the beginning of May after which they burrow into the ground where they create protective earthen cocoons inside of which they pupate.

Moth emergence usually begins by late May.   For a period of time, moths remain near areas where they emerged. Then an undefined stimulus (likely photoperiod driven) signals moths across the Central Plains states to migrate westward to the higher elevations in the Rockies. There in the cool-of-summer, they feed, accumulate body fat and attain sexual maturity. In mid- to late September, they migrate back to the Central Plains where they deposit eggs to initiate the next generation of army cutworms.

The current complaints revolve around the moths. Again, because moths are active during evening hours, they shun daylight. That is, with the approach of daylight, army cutworm moths seek shelter/cover in any conceivable space. Excluding moths is difficult because they will exploit very small openings.

Another interesting tidbit about army cutworm moths is that they are food for grizzly bears. During summer months, bears move to the higher elevations to feast on army cutworm moths. It was determined that a single moth possesses ½  calorie of fat content. It was further estimated that a bear obtains 20,000 calories of fat on a daily basis by consuming 40,000 moths per day. (Bob Bauernfeind)

We often hear of home remedies that have not been scientifically tested. Vinegar has been suggested as an effective herbicide, but until recently it had not been studied for effectiveness. The USDA's Agricultural Research Service has finally put vinegar to the test. They used concentrations of varying strengths including 5, 10 and 20 percent. Household vinegar is close to a 5 percent solution. Weeds tested included lambs-quarters, giant foxtail, velvetleaf, smooth pigweed and Canada thistle.

Weeds were hand-sprayed so that the leaves were uniformly coated with material. Young plants within the first two weeks of life were killed with the 5 and 10 percent solution. Higher concentrations provided 85 to 100 percent kill regardless of the size of the weed. Canada thistle proved to be exceptionally susceptible to vinegar. The 5 percent solution gave 100 percent kill of top growth. Vinegar sold as a herbicide is most often a 20% solution.

Note that all weeds tested were annuals except the thistle. Vinegar is not translocated, so it would burn the top growth of perennials but would be unlikely to kill established plants. Vinegar is commonly made from wine, cider or malt, though a wide variety of materials can be used. This study included only vinegar made from fruits or grains, so it conforms to organic farming standards. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe          

This bacterial disease is a common disease in Kansas but rarely causes extensive losses in fruit quality or production. The disease affects leaves, fruit, and occasionally twigs. Leaf infections first appear as small, pale green to yellow angular spots. These spots normally are more prevalent near the leaf tip and are surrounded by a yellow halo. Eventually, the lesions turn dark brown, separate from healthy tissue, and drop out, giving the leaf a shot- hole appearance. On susceptible cultivars, 1 or 2 leaf lesions can cause a complete yellowing of the leaf and result in premature defoliation. 

Fruit infections are mostly superficial but more serious infections can cause pitting and cracking of the fruit surface.

Peach cultivars vary in their susceptibility to bacterial spot, although no variety is immune. Those cultivars showing tolerance to the disease include Belle of Georgia, Biscoe, Candor, Comanche, Dixired, Earliglo, Early-Free Red, Emery, Encore, Garnet Beauty, Harbelle, Harbinger, Harbrite, Harken, Late Sunhaven, Loring, Madison, Norman, Ranger, Redhaven, Redkist, Redskin, Sentinel, and Sunhaven.

Cultivars most susceptible to bacterial spot are Autumnglo, Autumn Lady, Blake, Elberta, Halehaven, July Elberta, Jersey Queen, Jerseyland, Kalhaven, Suncling, Suncrest, Sunhigh, Ran Cocas, Redcrest, Rio-Oso-Gem, and Sweet Sue. Most apricot and nectarine cultivars are susceptible to bacterial spot.

Excessive fertilization can predispose peaches to severe bacterial spot infections. On the other hand, proper fertilization is necessary to maintain tree vigor and to prevent the development of Cytospora canker. Monitoring the fertility needs of trees is best accomplished through soil and leaf analysis.

Since this disease is cause by a bacteria, fungicides found in fruit tree sprays are ineffective.  (Ward Upham)

This time of year, two common leaf-spot diseases appear on tomato plants. Septoria leaf spot and early blight are both characterized by brown spots on the leaves.

Septoria leaf spot usually appears earlier in the season than early blight and produces small dark spots. Spots made by early blight are much larger and often have a distorted “target” pattern of concentric circles. Heavily infected leaves eventually turn yellow and drop. Older leaves are more susceptible than younger ones, so these diseases often start at the bottom of the plant and work up.

Mulching, caging, or staking keeps plants off the ground, making them less vulnerable. Better air circulation allows foliage to dry quicker than in plants allowed to sprawl. Mulching also helps prevent water from splashing and carrying disease spores to the plant.  

In situations where these diseases have been a problem in the past, rotation is a good strategy. It is too late for that now, but keep it in mind for next year. Actually, rotation is a good idea even if you have not had problems in the past. But many gardens are too small to make it practical. If you have room, rotate the location of the tomatoes each year to an area that has not had tomatoes or related crops (peppers, potatoes, eggplant) for several years.

If rotation is not feasible, fungicides are often helpful. Be sure to cover both upper and lower leaf surfaces, and reapply fungicide if rainfall removes it. Plants usually become susceptible when the tomato fruit is about the size of a walnut. Chlorothalonil is a good choice for fruiting plants because it has a 0-day waiting period, meaning that fruit can be harvested once the spray is dry.  Chlorothalonil can be found in numerous products including Fertilome Broad-Spectrum Landscape and Garden Fungicide, Ortho Garden Disease Control, GardenTech Daconil and others. Be sure to start protecting plants when the disease is first seen. It is virtually impossible to control this disease on heavily infected plants.

If chlorothalonil doesn’t seem to be effective, try mancozeb (Bonide Mancozeb Flowable). Note that there is a five-day waiting period between application and when the fruit can be harvested. You may wish to pick some tomatoes green just before you spray if you use Mancozeb as the tomato fruit will ripen inside. (Ward Upham)

Under favorable weather conditions, potatoes produce fruit. These structures are borne on the top of the plant and look much like small tomatoes. (Tomatoes and potatoes are closely related). Potato fruits are not edible. They contain a toxic substance (solanine) that can cause illness if eaten. Also, potato fruits should not be saved for seed because progeny does not come true. Rather, remove and dispose of fruit so children do not eat them. (Ward Upham)

Rose rosette is a serious problem in Kansas on wild roses (Rosa multiflora) in pastures and hedges. It is also found in domestic rose plantings.

Infection is thought to start with rapid elongation of a new shoot. The rapid shoot growth may continue for several weeks to a length of two to three feet. Following shoot elongation, a witches' broom or clustering of small branches occurs. The stems develop excessive thorniness and produce small, deformed leaves with a reddish-purple pigmentation. Stems and petioles of Rosa multiflora plants may have reddish blotches or streaks. Rose plants infected with the rose rosette virus die rapidly, usually within one to two years.

Rose rosette is caused by an aster yellows phytoplasma.  Transmission of the disease has been shown experimentally through grafting and through an eriophyid mite, Phyllocoptes frutiphilus. Though KnockOut roses are resistant to many diseases, they are susceptible to this one.

There is no effective control measure for infected plants. In garden settings, infected plants should be removed and destroyed, including roots. Any roots that remain after plant removal may produce infected shoots which can harbor the disease.

If possible, eliminate all multiflora rose plants from the vicinity as they are extremely susceptible and will act as a carrier. Multiflora rose is the wild rose often seen growing in ditches and pastures.

Since the disease can be transmitted by pruning shears, disinfect the shears when moving from one plant to another by using rubbing alcohol or a disinfectant such as Lysol. (Ward Upham)

The first defense against borers is to maintain healthy, vigorous growth on peach trees. Do a good job of pruning, keep trees watered as needed, and control peach leaf curl (see http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc3168.ashx ). Young trees are more likely to be attacked than older ones if the older trees are healthy.

Sprays should be applied the last week in June and again the last week in July for good control. Thoroughly cover the bottom portion of the trunk to the point that some spray pools at the base of the tree. Peach tree borers lay eggs on the tree trunk. When the larva hatches, it tunnels through the bark into the tree. If an insecticide is present on the trunk, the larva is killed when it tries to tunnel.     

Most of the active ingredients that were labeled for peach tree borer and lesser peach tree borer in homeowner packaging are now gone, except for permethrin, which is found in numerous products.  Those that have peach tree borer on the label include Hi-Yield Garden, Pet and Livestock Insect Control, Hi-Yield 38, Bonide Borer-Miner Killer and Gordon’s Bug-No-More Yard and Garden Insect Spray. (Ward Upham)

Squash bugs are the grey, shield-shaped bugs that feed on squash and pumpkin plants. If you have had problems with these insects in the past, you know that they are almost impossible to control when mature. This is because the squash bugs have a hard body that an insecticide has difficulty penetrating. Thus, spraying when the insects are small is important. We are now seeing the nymphs of the first generation. These nymphs will eventually become adults, which will lay eggs that will become the second generation. The second generation is often huge and devastating. Therefore, it is important to control as many squash bugs now as possible.

Because squash bugs feed by sucking juice from the plant, only insecticides that directly contact the insect will work. General use insecticides such as permethrin (Bug-B-Gon Multi-Purpose Garden Dust, Green Thumb Multipurpose Garden and Pet Dust, Bug-No-More Yard and Garden Insect Spray, Eight Vegetable, Fruit and Flower Concentrate, Garden, Pet and Livestock Insect Control, Lawn & Garden Insect Killer), malathion, and methoxychlor provide control if a direct application is made to young, soft-bodied squash bugs. This means that you MUST spray or dust the underside of the leaves because this is where the insects live. (Ward Upham)

We have had reports of this pest in Wichita and the Manhattan area. Though this weevil does feed on other elms including American and Chinese elms, Siberian elm is preferred.

The adult of this insect is a very small (1/8 inch) brown weevil with dark spots on the back. It sports a short, curved snout and has the ability to hop.

Eggs from overwintering adults hatch on newly formed leaves. The larva produces a serpentine pattern in the leaf that terminates on a leaf edge.  Adults have emerged now and are feeding on the leaves. Adult feeding damage produces a shothole pattern in the leaves. Heavily fed upon leaves appear lacy. There is one generation per year and so when the adults disappear, there should be no further damage this year.

I have not seen any control strategies for this insect. Trees typically recover from spring defoliations. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Many gardeners look forward to harvesting new potatoes this time of year. New potatoes are immature and should be about the size of walnuts. Pull soil away from the base of the plants to see if the tubers are the desired size. If they are, dig entire plants and allow the skins of the exposed tubers to dry for several hours before gathering. These young potatoes are very tender and prone to the skin “slipping” unless they are given a few hours to dry. Even then these immature potatoes will not store well. Red-skinned varieties are often preferred as they are the earliest to produce. (Ward Upham)

Though tomatoes need to be fertilized to yield well, too much nitrogen can result in large plants with little to no fruit. Tomatoes should be fertilized before planting and sidedressed with a nitrogen fertilizer three times during the season.

The first sidedressing should go down one to two weeks before the first tomato ripens. The second should be applied two weeks after the first tomato ripens and the third one month after the second. Common sources of nitrogen-only fertilizers include nitrate of soda, urea, and ammonium sulfate. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains primarily, but not exclusively, nitrogen. Use only one of the listed fertilizers and apply at the rate given below.

Nitrate of soda (16-0-0): Apply 2/3 pound (1.5 cups) fertilizer per 30 feet of row.

Blood Meal (12-1.5-.6): Apply 14 ounces (1.75 cups) fertilizer per 30 feet of row.

Urea (46-0-0): Apply 4 ounces (½ cup) fertilizer per 30 feet of row.

Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0): Apply 0.5 pounds (1 cup) fertilizer per 30 feet of row.

If you cannot find the above materials, you can use a lawn fertilizer that is about 30 percent nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number in the set of three) and apply it at the rate of 1/3 pound (3/4 cup) per 30 feet of row. Do not use a fertilizer that contains a weed killer or weed preventer. (Ward Upham)

We should have good fruit crops this year as long as we can avoid severe weather. Keep in mind some tips to help insure healthy trees, vines and fruit.

* Remove fruit from heavily loaded apples and peaches (if the flower buds weren’t killed by frost) to improve fruit size and prevent limbs from breaking. Apples should be spaced every 4 inches and peaches every 6 to 8. Note that is an average spacing. Two fruit can be closer together if the average is correct.

* Remove sucker growth from the base of fruit trees and grape vines.

* Remove water sprout growth from fruit trees. Water sprouts grow straight up.

* "Comb" new growth on grape vines so these new shoots hang down for greater exposure to sunlight.

* Continue disease and insect control to prevent fruit damage. (Ward Upham)

One of the most important clues in determining the health of your trees is the amount of new growth that tree produces. A healthy tree should have a minimum of 4 to 6 inches of new growth each year. Check branches with the tips in the open and not shaded by the tree itself. Anything less than 4 inches on the majority of branches suggests the tree is under a great deal of stress.

So how do you tell where the new growth stops? Look for a color change in the stem. New growth is often greener than that from the previous year. There is also often an area of what looks like compressed growth where growth transitions from one year to the next.

Lastly, look at leaf attachment. Leaves are only produced on current seasons’ growth. Therefore, new growth stops where leaves are no longer attached directly to the twig but to side branches. However, pay attention as leaves may be appear to be attached directly to last year’s growth but are actually borne on short spurs. If you look closely, you can tell the difference.

All this clue tells you is whether a tree is under stress or not. It does not tell you what is causing poor growth. This year, the most common cause by far is environmental stress caused by the sharp drop in temperature in November. However, the dry winter and excess moisture this spring has also contributed to stress.

Stress is cumulative. In other words, trees may not have completely recovered from stressful conditions (such as drought) that occurred within the last several years. The accumulating stress may have damaged root systems with further damage occurring due to saturated soils this spring. These trees may struggle as we enter summer. Though the roots were able to keep up with moisture demands during the cooler spring weather, they may not be able to as temperatures rise. Such trees may suddenly collapse and die or slough off branches they can no longer support. If
possible, water to a depth of 12 inches every couple of weeks we do not receive rain in order to avoid further stress. (Ward Upham)

Now is a good time to start new trees and shrubs from existing ones. Many ornamental trees and shrubs can be reproduced by taking cuttings from new growth that occurred this spring. Though these softwood cuttings root relatively easily, they are susceptible to wilting and need close attention to watering and relative humidity.

It is best if cuttings are taken after a rain or several hours after the plant has been well watered to ensure the cuttings remain turgid. Stems should be mature enough that they snap rather than bend when placed under pressure. Cuttings should be about 6 inches long with cuts made at an angle just below a node, the area where a leaf joins the stem. The angle provides a larger cut surface and more area for the cutting to callus and root.

Strip off the lower leaves and place the cutting in a moist rooting media after it has been dipped in rooting powder. Several rooting mediums are suitable including sand with peat moss, sand with vermiculite, perlite with peat moss, and perlite with vermiculite. A suitable medium should provide good moisture-holding capacity and be open enough to provide good aeration to the roots. Though some plants can be rooted directly in water, roots formed in water do not adapt well to soil.

Rooting containers vary. Some gardeners prefer flats because the number of cuttings each will hold. Others prefer small, individual pots for each cutting so cuttings can be removed from the propagation environment as they root. Regardless of the container used, relative humidity should be kept at a high level.

This can be done by enclosing the container or containers in a plastic bag. Use wooden dowels, plastic straws or a similar object to keep the plastic off the top of the cuttings. Place the rooting container in bright, indirect light and check often for watering needs. When roots are about 1 inch long, cuttings can be removed from the propagation chamber and potted. (Ward Upham)

Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that thrives in the cooler spring temperatures but dies out in the summer. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid- to late-summer.

At this point there is no control for little barley other than a glyphosate product such as Roundup. However, Roundup will kill whatever it hits and cannot be used in a lawn situation. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled for lawn situations is Surflan. Monterey Lawn and Garden also sell it under the name of Weed Impede. Surflan can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue grown in warm-season areas. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide in September. (Ward Upham)

Waterlogged soils push out oxygen that roots need to survive. Every living cell in a plant must have oxygen or it dies. Some plants have mechanisms to provide oxygen to the roots even under saturated conditions but most of our
vegetables and flowers do not. The longer these plants are subjected to saturated soils, the more likely damage will occur.

Usually, as long as water drains away within 24 hours, the impact on plant health is minimal. However, shallow, stagnant water under hot, sunny conditions can literally cook plants, reducing survival time to as little as a few hours.

Vegetables: What about safety regarding eating produce from a garden that has been flooded? Standing water should not cause a safety problem as long as the aboveground portions of the plant remain healthy. Do not use produce from plants that have yellowed. Also, using produce flooded with water contaminated with sewage (lagoon) or animal manure can also be dangerous.

The safest approach is to discard all garden crops that have been in contact with such water. Certainly, leafy vegetables should always be discarded. However, you may eat fruit from such crops as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, sweet corn, squash, cucumbers, and similar vegetables that develops after the waters have subsided as long as the fruit is not cracked or soft. Always wash vegetables thoroughly before eating.

Lawns: Under the cool conditions of early spring, turfgrasses can often survive several days of flooding. However, during hot, sunny conditions with shallow, stagnant water, lawns may be damaged quickly, sometimes in a few hours. This situation often occurs when shallow depressions in a lawn allow water to pool. Note such areas and fill in with additional soil once the waters have subsided.

Trees: Trees differ markedly in their ability to withstand flooding. Some trees have mechanisms in place to provide oxygen to the roots of plants with water saturated soils and others do not. However, most trees will maintain health if flood waters recede in 7 days or less. It also helps if water is flowing rather than stagnant as flowing water contains more oxygen. If the roots of sensitive trees are flooded for long periods of time, damage will occur including leaf f drop, iron chlorosis, leaf curl, branch dieback, and in some cases, tree death. Another danger of flooding is the deposition of sediment. An additional layer of silt 3 inches or more can also restrict oxygen to the roots. If possible, remove deep layers of sediment as soon as conditions permit. This is especially important for small or recently transplanted trees.

Try to avoid any additional stress to the trees this growing season. Ironically, one of the most important practices is to water trees if the weather turns dry. Flooding damages roots and therefore the root system is less efficient in making use of available soil water. Timely waterings are vital to a tree’s recovery. Also be diligent in removing any dead or dying branches which may serve as a point of entry for disease organisms or insect pests. The following information on tree survival came from the US forest Service.

Trees Tolerant of Flooding: Can survive one growing season under flooded conditions. Red maple, silver maple, pecan, hackberry, persimmon, white ash, green ash, sweetgum, sycamore, eastern cottonwood, pin oak and baldcypress.

Trees Moderately Tolerant of Flooding: Can survive 30 consecutive days under flooded conditions. River birch, downy hawthorn, honeylocust, swamp white oak, southern red oak, bur oak, willow oak and American elm.

Trees Sensitive to Flooding: Unable to survive more than a few days of flooding during the growing season. Redbud, flowering dogwood, black walnut, red mulberry, most pines, white oak, blackjack oak, red oak and black oak.

After the Flood: Soils often become compacted and crusted after a heavy rainfall. This also can restrict oxygen to the roots. Lightly scraping the soil to break this crust will help maintain a healthy root system and therefore, a healthy plant. Be careful not to cultivate too deeply as shallow roots may be damaged. If you think the excessively wet weather will continue, bedding up the rows before planting even just a couple of inches, will improve drainage and allow for better aeration. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate