​These beetles are notorious for quickly stripping vegetables (especially tomatoes) and ornamentals of their foliage. There are several species of blister beetles which vary in size (often between 0.5-0.75 inch long) and color (such as black, gray or brown-striped), but most are recognized by their elongated, narrow, cylindrical, soft bodies with middle body part (thorax) narrower than the head or wingcovers.

Some home gardeners like to use hand picking as a nonchemical method for controlling these large insects. However, wear gloves and use caution because these beetles contain a substance called cantharidin. This chemical is an irritant capable of blistering internal and external body tissues exposed to the chemical. On tender human skin, body fluids of adult blister beetles may cause large, erect, watery blisters. 

Chemical control of blister beetles is also possible. Cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) and gamma- or lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Beetle Killer, Bonide Caterpillar Killer) can be used for control. Cyfluthrin has a 0 day waiting period and lambda-cyhalothrin has a 5-day waiting period on tomatoes. (Ward Upham)

These beetles are notorious for quickly stripping vegetables
(especially tomatoes) and ornamentals of their foliage.
There are several species of blister beetles which vary in
size (often between 0.5-0.75 inch long) and color (such as
black, gray or brown-striped), but most are recognized by
their elongated, narrow, cylindrical, soft bodies with
middle body part (thorax) narrower than the head or
wingcovers.

Some home gardeners like to use hand picking as a nonchemical method for controlling these
large insects. However, wear gloves and use caution because these beetles contain a substance
called cantharidin. This chemical is an irritant capable of blistering internal and external body
tissues exposed to the chemical. On tender human skin, body fluids of adult blister beetles may
cause large, erect, watery blisters.
​
Chemical control of blister beetles is also possible. Cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden
Insect Spray) and gamma- or lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Beetle Killer,
Bonide Caterpillar Killer) can be used for control. Cyfluthrin has a 0 day waiting period and
lambda-cyhalothrin has a 5-day waiting period on tomatoes. (Ward Upham)

This leaf spot disease of oak is showing up earlier and is more severe this year than normal.  Members of the red oak group are more likely to be affected than those in the white oak group, but members of both groups are showing symptoms now. Red oaks often have distinct round spots as well as dead areas that follow the veins. White oaks also have the dead areas that follow the veins and large blotches of dead tissue but lack the distinct spots.  Leaves severely damaged may drop.  However, trees rarely lose enough leaves to harm the health of the tree.  No fungicide sprays are recommended. (Ward Upham)

Tree squirrels can cause a couple types of tree damage. Most commonly they clip the tips of branches. The length of severed branches is often 2 to 3 feet though they can be longer or shorter. When squirrels snip off a branch, they cut it at about a 45-degree angle and the cut is rather tattered. This is a nuisance type of damage and normally does not hurt the health of the tree.

More serious damage is caused when squirrels strip the bark off of limbs or rarely, the trunk.  Wounds can be quite large and the squirrel can effectively girdle the branch by removing all the bark completely around the circumference. Branches girdled in this way will die and the tree may be ruined if those branches are major.

Why squirrels do this is still a bit of a mystery. Some people think it is simply a means to sharpen their teeth or that they are seeking nesting material or water. Other people think that there are certain squirrels that are high-strung and cause this damage out of nervous energy.

If the damage is limited to snipping the ends off of branches, it is probably best to ignore the activity as the tree suffers little harm. But if real damage is occurring due to extensive bark removal, try feeding and watering them. If that doesn’t work, control may be necessary. Fox and gray squirrels are game animals and can be hunted in season where it is legal and safe to do so.  They can also be trapped and moved away from the area they are causing damage. For more information on control, see http://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/L863.pdf .  (Ward Upham)

These large (1-1/3- to 1-5/8-inch long) wasps fly slowly above the ground. Cicada killers have a black body with yellow marks across the thorax and abdomen. Wings are reddish-orange. Although these wasps are huge, they usually ignore people. Males may act aggressively if they are threatened, but are unable to sting. Females can sting, but are so passive that they rarely do. Even if they do sting, the pain is less than that of smaller wasps such as the yellow jacket or paper wasp and is similar to the sting of a sweat bee.

The cicada killer is a solitary wasp rather than a social wasp like the yellow jacket. The female nests in burrows in the ground. These burrows are quarter-size in diameter and can go 6 inches straight down and another 6 inches horizontally. Adults normally live 60 to 75 days from mid-July to mid-September and feed on flower nectar and sap. The adult female seeks cicadas on the trunks and lower limbs of trees. She stings her prey, flips it over, straddles it and carries it to her burrow. If she has a tree to climb, she will climb the tree so the can get airborne and fly with cicada back to the nest. If not, she will drag it. She will lay one egg per cicada if the egg is left unfertilized. Unfertilized eggs develop into males only. Fertilized eggs develop into females and are given at least two cicadas. Cicadas are then stuffed into the female’s burrow. Each burrow normally has three to four cells with one to two cicadas in each.  However, it is possible for one burrow to have 10 to 20 cells.

Eggs hatch in two to three days, and larvae begin feeding on paralyzed cicadas.  Feeding continues for four to 10 days until only the outer shell of the cicada remains. The larva overwinters inside a silken case. Pupation occurs in the spring. There is one generation per year.

Cicada killers are not dangerous, but they can be a nuisance. If you believe control is necessary, treat the burrows after dark to ensure the female wasps are in their nests. The males normally roost on plants near burrow sites. They can be captured with an insect net or knocked out of the air with a tennis racket during the day. Carbaryl (Sevin) or permethrin may be used for control.

If you would like more detailed information on cicada killers, see Bob Bauernfeind’s article in the July 10, 2015 Kansas Insect Newsletter at http://entomology.k-state.edu/doc/Newsletters/2015/KSInsectNewsletter12.pdf  (Ward Upham)

Most calls on how to control bagworms come in late July to early August when damage appears. Bagworms are difficult to control when they are that large. They are much easier to kill while small. Bagworms overwinter as eggs inside the dead female’s bag. Young larvae normally hatch and emerge during mid to late May in Kansas. Now would be a good time to use control measures if you haven’t already sprayed.  However, make sure the bagworms are present by looking for a miniature version of the mature bagworm.  Also, check to be sure the bagworms are alive before spraying. Predators and parasites  can sometimes naturally control this pest.

Insecticides commonly used for controlling bagworms include acephate (Orthene), permethrin (numerous trade names), cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect spray), bifenthrin (Bug Blaster II, Bug-B-Gon Max Lawn and Garden Insect Killer), lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Caterpillar Killer) and spinosad (Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray; and Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew). Spinosad is an organic control that is very effective on this pest.  Thorough spray coverage of foliage is essential for good control with any of these products. (Ward Upham)

These beetles are notorious for quickly stripping vegetables (especially tomatoes) and ornamentals of their foliage. There are several species of blister beetles which vary in size (often between 0.5-0.75 inch long) and color (such as black, gray or brown-striped), but most are recognized by their elongated, narrow, cylindrical, soft bodies with middle body part (thorax) narrower than the head or wingcovers.

Some home gardeners like to use hand picking as a nonchemical method for controlling these large insects. However, wear gloves and use caution because these beetles contain a substance called cantharidin. This chemical is an irritant capable of blistering internal and external body tissues exposed to the chemical. On tender human skin, body fluids of adult blister beetles may cause large, erect, watery blisters.

Chemical control of blister beetles is also possible. Cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) and gamma- or lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Beetle Killer, Bonide Caterpillar Killer) can be used for control. Cyfluthrin has a 0 day waiting period and lambda-cyhalothrin has a 5-day waiting period on tomatoes. (Ward Upham)

If you have squash or related plants that suddenly wilt and die, you may have squash vine borer. This insect will bore into the stems of squash, zucchini, pumpkins and gourds. Hubbard squash are a favorite, and butternuts are less likely to be attacked than other squash. Cucumbers and melons are usually not a target, although both can be affected by a disease that causes similar symptoms, known as bacterial wilt.

The adult of this insect is a clear-winged moth that resembles a wasp. The forewings are a dark metallic green but the rear wings are clear. The abdomen is orange with black spots. The larva is cream-colored and rather wrinkled. Adults emerge in the spring and lay eggs on or near susceptible plants. Larva bore into the plant and feed for about a month as they move toward the base. Mature larva will exit the plant, burrow into the soil and pupate where they remain until the next year. Each plant can have numerous borers. If you suspect squash vine borer, split the stem of a collapsed plant near where it enters the ground. Infested plants will be hollowed out and mushy and may contain borers. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do at this late stage. Control measures should center on prevention.

Suggested preventative controls would include crushing the dull red eggs before they hatch, excavating larvae from stems before they cause much damage or using insecticide applications. Applications should begin when the vines begin to run (too late for that) and reapplied every seven to 10 days for three to five weeks. Direct the spray at the crown of the plant and the base of runners. Chemicals used for borer control in gardens are permethrin (Bug-No-More Yard & Garden Insect Spray; Eight Vegetable, Fruit & Flower Concentrate; Lawn, Garden, Pet and Livestock Insect Control; Lawn & Garden Insect Killer), bifenthrin (Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II, Bug-B-Gon Max Garden Insect Killer) or carbaryl (Sevin), applied as sprays or dusts. Continue on a 7 to 10 day reapplication schedule for 3 to 5 weeks. If plants wilt, look for the presence of holes and ooze. However, in extreme heat, these plants will wilt in the afternoon even if undamaged by this insect. (Ward Upham)

Many areas of Kansas went through an extremely wet spring.  Gardeners may assume that little watering may be needed this summer as the soils were completely recharged.  However, many will likely need to do more watering than they expect. 

Rain saturated soils can damage root systems.  Excess water drives oxygen out of the soil as pore spaces are filled with water. Every living cell in a plant must have oxygen to live. If there is no oxygen, roots will die. Therefore, many of our plants may need to be babied through the summer.

Newly planted trees are especially vulnerable as they have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care even if the root system was not damaged by saturated soils. 

Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to drill a small hole (1/8") in the side and near the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once, and you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water.

A perforated soaker hose is a great way to water larger trees, a newly established bed or a foundation planting.  See the accompanying article for an inexpensive way to water trees.

In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow. 

Regardless of method used, soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. Record the time that was required to reach 12 inches and then use a time clock for any future waterings.  (Ward Upham)

We mentioned in an accompanying article about using a soaker hose to water trees.  We thought it might be helpful to provide more details. 

Soaker hoses are notorious for non-uniform watering. In other words, you often receive too much water from one part of the hose and not enough from another.  Hooking both the beginning and the end of the soaker hose to a Y-adapter helps equalize the pressure and therefore provide a more uniform watering.  The specific parts you need are shown in the photo above and include the soaker hose, Y-adapter and female to female connector.

It is also helpful if the Y-adapter has shut off valves so the volume of flow can be controlled.  Too high a flow rate can allow water to run off rather than soak in.  

On larger trees, the soaker hose can circle the trunk at a distance within the dripline of the tree but at least ½ the distance to the dripline. The dripline of the tree is outermost reach of the branches. On smaller trees, you may circle the tree several times so that only soil which has tree roots will be watered.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Tomatoes often have problems with cracking caused by pressure inside the fruit that is more than the skin can handle. Cracks are usually on the upper part of the fruit and can be concentric (in concentric circles around the stem) or radial (radiating from the stem). We don’t know everything about cracking but here is what we do know.         

Tomatoes have a root system that is very dense and fibrous and is quite efficient in picking up water. Unfortunately, the root system can become unbalanced with the top of the plant. Early in the season it may be small in relation to the top growth resulting in blossom-end rot during hot dry weather. Later it may be so efficient that it provides too much water when we get rain or irrigate heavily after a dry spell. This quick influx of water can cause the tomato fruit to crack.  Therefore, even, consistent watering can help with cracking. Mulching will also help because it moderates moisture levels in the soil. However, you can do everything right and still have problems with cracking in some years.

We have evaluated varieties for cracking during our tomato trials at K-State. It takes several years worth of data to get a good feel for crack-resistant varieties but we have found some real differences. Some varieties crack under about any condition and others are much more resistant.  The difference seems to be pliability of skin rather than thickness — the more pliable the skin the more resistance to cracking.

The old variety Jet Star has been the most crack resistant of any we have tested including the newer types. Unfortunately, Jet Star is an indeterminate variety that puts out rampant growth.  Newer varieties with more controlled growth are often more attractive to gardeners. Mountain Spring, Mountain Pride, Mountain Fresh, Floralina and Sun Leaper are smaller-vined types that have shown good resistance to cracking. (Ward Upham)

Telling when a melon is ready to be harvested can be a challenge, or it may be quite easy. It all depends on the type of melon. Let’s start with the easy one. Muskmelons are one of those crops that tell you when they are ready to be picked. This can help you not only harvest melons at the correct time but also choose good melons when shopping. As a melon ripens, a layer of cells around the stem softens so the melon detaches easily from the vine. This is called “slipping” and will leave a dish-shaped scar at the point of stem attachment. When harvesting melons, put a little pressure where the vine attaches to the fruit. If ripe, it will release or “slip.”

When choosing a melon from those that have already been harvested, look for a clean, dish-shaped scar. Also, ripe melons have a pleasant, musky aroma if the melons are at room temperature (not refrigerated).           

Watermelons can be more difficult and growers often use several techniques to tell when to harvest.

1. Look for the tendril that attaches at the same point as the melon to dry and turn brown. On some varieties this will need to be completely dried before the watermelon is ripe. On others it will only need to be in the process of turning brown.

2. The surface of a ripening melon develops a surface roughness (sometimes called “sugar bumps”) near the base of the fruit.

3. Ripe watermelons normally develop a yellow color on the “ground spot” when ripe. This is the area of the melon that contacts the ground.

Honeydew melons are the most difficult to tell when they are ripe because they do not “slip” like muskmelons. Actually, there is one variety that does slip called Earlidew, but it is the exception to the rule. Ripe honeydew melons become soft on the flower end of the fruit. The “flower end” is the end opposite where the stem attaches. Also, honeydews should change to a light or yellowish color when ripe, but this varies with variety. (Ward Upham)

When temperatures exceed 90 degrees F, fruit plants lose water quickly. When this happens, moisture is withdrawn from the fruit to supply the tree. Stress from high temperatures, along with a moisture deficit in the root environment, may cause fruit to drop or fail to increase in size.

The stress may also reduce the development of fruit buds for next year's fruit crop. If you have fruit plants such as trees, vines, canes, and such, check soil moisture at the roots. Insert a spade or shovel or a pointed metal or wood probe -- a long screwdriver works well for this. Shove these into the soil about 8 to 12 inches. If the soil is hard, dry, and difficult to penetrate, the moisture level is very low, and plants should be irrigated to prevent drooping and promote fruit enlargement.  Water can be added to the soil using sprinklers, soaker hose, drip irrigation, or even a small trickle of water running from the hose for a few hours. The amount of time you irrigate should depend upon the size of plants and the volume of water you are applying. Add enough moisture so you can easily penetrate the soil in the root area of the plant with a metal rod, wooden dowel or other probe. When hot, dry weather continues, continue to check soil moisture at least once a week.

Strawberries have a shallow root system and may need to be watered more often – maybe twice a week during extreme weather. Also, newly planted fruit trees sited on sandy soils may also need water twice a week. (Ward Upham)

Heavy fruit loads this season may cause limbs to break if they are not given extra support. As fruits increase in size, the additional weight on individual branches may be substantial. One-inch thick boards can be used to prop up limbs.

Here's how. Cut a "V" on the top edge of the board on which the limb will rest so that it doesn't slip off. Long limbs that are heavily loaded with fruit may need a prop in the center and another to support the outer part of the limb. A plastic belt-like material that is about 2 inches wide may also be used. This can be tied to a heavily loaded limb, then to a large diameter limb above for support. Where a large limb is used for support, it is good to have it supporting limbs on opposite sides so the weight is balanced. Another solution is to wrap a tape or belt material around the tree in a spiral to prevent limbs from bending until they break. Heavy twine may be used, but it should be removed when the fruit is picked or soon after so it does not cut into the bark on the limb.

Check trees regularly, up to two times a week during the last month the fruit are maturing. You will find additional limbs that need support. Tending to the heavily loaded tree limbs will reduce the number of broken limbs and help keep a balance of the fruiting wood in your tree.  Next year, prune long, weak branches back to a side branch to help prevent this problem. (Ward Upham)

Blackberry and raspberry fruit will often develop white or tan drupelets on the berry. Though we are not completely sure of the cause, two commonly given reasons are stinkbug damage and sunscald.  Damage has been attributed to stinkbugs if the pattern of off color (not white) drupelets is random. Stinkbug damage is caused by the insect feeding on the blackberry receptacle and injuring drupelets on either side. Sunscald damage will be on the side of the fruit exposed to the sun and has several drupelets in a small area being affected.

Neither condition affects the eating quality of the fruit unless the stink bug releases the “stink” with which it is associated rendering the fruit inedible. By the time damage is seen, it is too late for control. (Ward Upham)

Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care.

Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to  punch a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once, and you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water.

A perforated soaker hose is a great way to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot  diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out.

Regardless of method used, soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. (Ward Upham)

No, not the kind of screens with which our lives are consumed! I’ve had a lot of requests lately for information about columnar (fastigate) trees. My first question is always “Why?” I find that columnar trees impart a very formal feel to a landscape design. Do they fit? What is their purpose? Most often the answer is that the person wants to screen a neighbor or a particular view or perhaps they just need something narrow to fit in a particular spot. My next question relates to the type of plant desired: evergreen or deciduous. An evergreen plant will block the view year-round and provide some winter interest, but are generally more slow-growing. A deciduous tree will most likely grow faster than an evergreen tree, but in the winter the leaves will drop and you’ll have a partial screen. You’ll need to weigh the pros and cons for your situation as you chose plants for these purposes.

It’s important to be aware of the mature size of the plant as well. Sure, they look so small and skinny when you plant them, but when they start to grow into each other and you can’t mow around them anymore it becomes a problem. Be aware of how much space you have for them to grow (wide) and how tall you need them to be in order to solve the privacy or view problem.

So, let’s get into some plant recommendations, starting with evergreen. Assuming that you want these plants to get to at least 15 to 30 feet tall, you can consider a Chinese juniper such as Juniperus chinensis ‘Hetzii Columnaris’ or a white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Fastigiata’). A tough-as-nails option that is used quite frequently is a cultivar of Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) called ‘Taylor’ which is a release from the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum and was found in a pasture near Taylor, NE. Some winter browning has been reported in exceptionally cold years, but the plants recover quickly.        

There are quite a few more options in the deciduous category and most can get quite tall. Let’s start with the shortest of the bunch, which is a ginkgo with outstanding bright yellow fall color: Gold Spire ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba ‘Blagon’) that grows 14 to 16 feet tall and 5 to 6 feet wide. European Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus  ‘Franz Fontaine’) is a popular option with clean, bright green foliage growing 30 feet tall by 10 feet wide. Mature tuliptrees (Liriodendron tulipifera) will really make heads turn when they sport large, tulip-shaped flowers in the spring. The columnar cultivar ‘Fastigiatum’ grows 50 to 60 feet tall and 20 feet wide.  

I would be remiss not to mention a cultivar plucked right out of the Great Plains in Kansas. Prairie Sentinel® Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis ‘JFS-KSU1’) stuck it’s tall canopy out of the rural prairie and just called out for propagation. It can grow up to 45 feet tall and 12 feet wide. It’s also just as tough-as-nails as Eastern redcedar. 

How about a Zelkova? These upright trees have a vase-shaped architecture (they are quite narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, a little like an upside down pyramid) they make great canopies over roads. The columnar version of this species is Zelkova serrata ‘Musashino’ and grows 45 feet tall and 15 feet wide.          

Another relatively columnar tree not seen nearly enough is Shawnee Brave® Baldcypress (Taxodium distichum ‘Mickelson’). Baldcypress can be a confusing tree to folks who aren’t “in the know.” It looks like an evergreen, and in fact it is a conifer, but it’s a deciduous conifer. It’s feathery sage-green leaves turn pumpkin-brown in the fall and drop to the ground. This species can get huge, both tall and wide, but Shawnee Brave® grows to a mere 55 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Since this species tolerates wet and/or dry areas, it might just fit the tough spot you’re looking to fill.

Now to the oaks.  Columnar English Oak (Quercus robur ‘Fastigiata’) started the trend by growing 50 to 60 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide. This is an example of a tree that tends to hold onto its leaves well into the winter so it can provide a partial screen in the winter. Some plants are susceptible to mildew, thus numerous hybrids have been developed in order to improve on the growth habits of columnar English oak. One of these is Crimson Spire™ Oak (Quercus robur x Quercus alba ‘Crimschmidt’), which is a beautiful deciduous street tree with reddish-purple fall color that grows 45 feet tall and 15 feet wide. A smaller relative is the Kindred Spirit™ Oak (Quercus robur x bicolor ‘Nadler’), which matures at about 30 feet tall and 6 feet wide.

One last plant note: I know you all want to plant poplar.  Please, don’t. Here’s why: poplars (in general) are fast growing but that comes with weak, brittle wood, disease-prone growth, short life span, roots that clog drain tiles, sewers and water channels. Horticulturalists consider most species of poplar a pest (don’t tell the foresters…) when used as ornamentals. It has few redeeming qualities in a home landscape and will only serve to annoy and frustrate you over its short lifespan. There are so many better choices!

This is not an all-inclusive list and, as with my last article, these plants may be more difficult to find than your average tree. They’re not quite specimen plants, but they’re not full, wide shade trees either (most commonly planted). However, they are available. Be patient and have your local landscape contractor or nursery do some sourcing for you. It will be worth it to have a quality, long-lasting, living screen.  (Cheryl Boyer)

These beetles are notorious for quickly stripping vegetables (especially tomatoes) and ornamentals of their foliage. There are several species of blister beetles which vary in size (often between 0.5-0.75 inch long) and color (such as black, gray or brown-striped), but most are recognized by their elongated, narrow, cylindrical, soft bodies with middle body part (thorax) narrower than the head or wingcovers.

Some home gardeners like to use hand picking as a nonchemical method for controlling these large insects. However, wear gloves and use caution because these beetles contain a substance called cantharidin. This chemical is an irritant capable of blistering internal and external body tissues exposed to the chemical. On tender human skin, body fluids of adult blister beetles may cause large, erect, watery blisters.

Chemical control of blister beetles is also possible. Cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) and gamma- or lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Beetle Killer, Bonide Caterpillar Killer) can be used for control. Cyfluthrin has a 0 day waiting period and lambda-cyhalothrin has a 5-day waiting period on tomatoes. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Cheryl Boyer, Extension Specialist