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Winterizing Roses

11/9/2017

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Though most shrub roses are hardy in Kansas, other types of roses can be more tender. For example, the hybrid teas have certain species in their ancestry that originated in the warm climate of southern China. These roses need protection to reliably survive Kansas winters. Mound soil or compost about 8 to 10 inches high around each plant. If using soil, bring it in from another part of the garden. Do not pull it from between plants because this can damage the rose roots or make them more susceptible to cold.

Mounding is normally finished by Thanksgiving. After the ground has frozen, add a 4-inch mulch of straw, leaves or hay for further protection. More soil may be spread on top of the mulch to keep it in place. Do not add the mulch before the ground freezes or mice may invade and feed on the roses over the winter. The purpose of these coverings is not only to moderate the cold, but also to prevent warm days during the winter or early spring from stimulating growth that is tender to returning cold weather.  Excessively tall canes should be pruned to a height of 36 inches and tied together to prevent them from being whipped by strong winter winds. Wind can damage the crown of the plant or loosen the surrounding soil. 
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Next spring, remove coverings before new growth starts. If soil was used for mounding, remove from the area so that the level of soil stays constant from year to year. Wait until after the ground thaws, or the tops may begin growing before the roots can provide water. (Ward Upham)

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Protecting Roses for Winter

10/27/2017

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Flowers: Rose Rosette

6/6/2017

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​Rose rosette is a serious problem in Kansas on wild roses (Rosa multiflora) in pastures and hedges. It is also found in domestic rose plantings.
       
Infection is thought to start with rapid elongation of a new shoot. The rapid shoot growth may continue for several weeks to a length of two to three feet. Following shoot elongation, a witches' broom or clustering of small branches occurs. The stems develop excessive thorniness and produce small, deformed leaves with a reddish-purple pigmentation. Stems and petioles of Rosa multiflora plants may have reddish blotches or streaks.
       
Rose plants infected with the rose rosette virus die rapidly, usually within one to two years.  Rose rosette is caused by a Emaravirus species.   Transmission of the disease has been shown experimentally through grafting and is also thought to be spread by mites. Though KnockOut roses are resistant to many diseases, they are susceptible to this one.
       
There is no effective control measure for infected plants. In garden settings, infected plants should be removed and destroyed, including roots. Any roots that remain after plant removal may produce infected shoots which can harbor the disease.  If possible, eliminate all multiflora rose plants from the vicinity as they are extremely susceptible and will act as a carrier. Multiflora rose is the wild rose often seen growing in ditches and  pastures.
       
Since the disease can be transmitted by pruning shears, disinfect the shears when moving from one plant to another by using rubbing alcohol or a disinfectant such as Lysol. (Ward Upham)

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Pests: Bristly Rose Slug

5/23/2017

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​This insect has been skeletonizing rose leaves in the Kansas City and Lawrence areas. This is not a caterpillar but is the larva of a sawfly. Close examination of this small (½ inch) larva will reveal very fine, hairlike spines in clusters.
 
Young larvae will remove the green layer of a leaf leaving behind a clear material. As the larvae mature, they make holes in the leaf and eventually may consume all of the leaf but the major veins.
 
Since these insects are not caterpillars (larvae of moths or butterflies), BT, found in Dipel and Thuricide will not be an effective treatment. However, a strong jet of water will dislodge the slugs and make it difficult for them to return to the plant. Other effective treatments include insecticidal soap, horticultural oils, spinosad (Fertilome Borer Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew) and permethrin (various trade names). (Ward Upham)

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Flowers: Blackspot of Roses

5/2/2017

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​A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungus disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop. The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (>85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F) and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection.
        
The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water.  Cultural practices are the first line of defense.
        
1. Don't plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. For a list of blackspot resistant varieties, go to: https://ag.purdue.edu/btny/ppdl/Pages/POTW_old/3-22-04.html
        
2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works well with roses.
        
3. Plant roses in sun in areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet.
        
4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum.
        
If needed, protect foliage with a regular spray program (10- to 14-day schedule) of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs), myclobutanil (Immunox, Immunox Plus, F-Stop Lawn & Garden Fungicide), triticonazole (Ortho Rose & Flower Disease Control) and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Lawn & Garden Fungicide, Garden Disease Control, others). (Ward Upham)

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Video of the Week: Caring for Knock-Out Roses

3/20/2017

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 44

11/1/2016

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Video of the Week:
Spider Plants and Exotic Ferns

Flowers:
Winterizing Roses

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Though most shrub roses are hardy in Kansas, other types of roses can be more tender. For example, the hybrid teas have certain species in their ancestry that originated in the warm climate of southern China. These roses need protection to reliably survive Kansas winters. Mound soil or compost about 8 to 10 inches high around each plant. If using soil, bring it in from another part of the garden. Do not pull it from between plants because this can damage the rose roots or make them more susceptible to cold.
 
Mounding is normally finished by Thanksgiving. After the ground has frozen, add a 4-inch mulch of straw, leaves or hay for further protection. More soil may be spread on top of the mulch to keep it in place. Do not add the mulch before the ground freezes or mice may invade and feed on the roses over the winter. The purpose of these coverings is not only to moderate the cold, but also to prevent warm days during the winter or early spring from stimulating growth that is tender to returning cold weather. Excessively tall canes should be pruned to a height of 36 inches and tied together to prevent them from being whipped by strong winter winds. Wind can damage the crown of the plant or loosen the surrounding soil.
 
Next spring, remove coverings before new growth starts. If soil was used for mounding, remove from the area so that the level of soil stays constant from year to year. Wait until after the ground thaws, or the tops may begin growing before the roots can provide water. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Winter Care of Houseplants

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During the short days of winter, houseplant growth slows, resulting in a need to change how we care for them. Although frequent watering may have been necessary during the long days of summer, the same amount now could cause problems. Excess water fills air spaces within the soil resulting in roots that receive less oxygen than they need. Water by touch, not by calendar.  If the soil is dry an inch deep, it istime to water. Be sure to add enough so that some water flows out the bottom of the pot. This will help wash out excess salts that tend to accumulate within the potting soil. Fertilization also should be reduced. Normally, it is best to apply half the amount of fertilizer for flowering houseplants and one-fourth the amount for foliage houseplants. Too much fertilizer results in plants that become leggy and weak.
 
Location is another factor that should be considered this time of year. Since day length is so short, houseplants may be helped by being moved to areas of the room that receive more light, such as a south-or east-facing window.
 
Avoid placing plants where drafts from doors or direct output from heating ducts may contact them. Relative humidity also tends to be low during the winter. If you do not have a humidifier, frequent misting of the plants or placing them on water-filled trays of pebbles can help raise the humidity. (Ward Upham)

Draining Hoses and Irrigation Lines

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Hoses and shallow irrigation lines may be damaged over the winter if water is not drained. If there is a main shut-off valve for the system, close it and then run through the zones to make sure any pressure has a chance to bleed off. Lawn irrigation systems usually have shallow lines. Though some lines may be self-draining, check to be sure there are no manual drains. If manual drains are present, they should be opened. Be sure to map them so they can be closed next spring before the system is pressurized. If there are no manual drains the system should be blown out with an air compressor.  Lawn irrigation companies often offer this service.
 
Drain hoses by stretching them out and coiling them for storage. Water will drain as you pull the hose toward you for coiling. Store in a protected place. UV light can make hoses brittle over time. (Ward Upham)

Keep Compost Pile Moist

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This is the time of year when there are lots of materials available to compost. Remember that the compost needs to be kept moist so that the bacteria and fungi can break down the raw materials. Use a sprinkler to soak through the pile to the center. Allow the pile to drain. The goal is for the pile to remain moist; not waterlogged. Edges will dry out the quickest and may need a light sprinkling from time to time.
 
If you are interested in composting but don’t know how it is done, see our video at http://tinyurl.com/jn6yppo and/or our publication at http://hnr.k-state.edu/doc/hort-tips/Composting.pdf (Ward Upham)

Roasting Pumpkin Seeds

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Now that Halloween is past, you may be wondering what to do with the pumpkins that were used to decorate for the holiday. Consider roasting the seeds before freezing temperatures destroys the pumpkin fruit. Cut open the pumpkin and remove the seeds and stringy material. Seeds should be washed and dried and the “strings” discarded. Toss the seeds with a little oil before roasting.
 
Flavor can be enhanced by adding a sprinkling of salt to the oiled seeds. Seeds can then be spread on a cookie sheet and roasted for about 25 minutes at 325 degrees F. Times may vary depending on the size and moisture content of the seed. Seeds are done when they turn a golden brown. If seeds are not eaten immediately, store in a zip closure bag in the refrigerator. (Ward Upham)
 
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 23

6/7/2016

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Video of the Week:
Controlling Bagworms

Fruit:
Brown Rot of Stone Fruits​

brown rot on stone fruit
The wet weather we have seen in some areas has caused perfect conditions for the formation of brown rot on stone fruits such as peaches and plums. Affected fruit develop a gray to brown, fuzzy growth on the fruit, itself, which may rot in as little as a day or two. It is best to start treating fruit about a month before harvest but spraying is still helpful even if we are within that one month period. Fruit that shows symptoms cannot be saved but should be destroyed to prevent further spread.
 
Use Captan or myclobutanil (Immunox) for control. Many fruit tree sprays contain Captan but check the label to be certain. Apply Captan or Immunox every 7 to 14 days.  Both products can be applied up to the day of harvest.  Note that though Immunox is labeled for fruit but Immunox Plus is not. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
​Sidedressing Annual Flowers

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Modern annual flowers have been bred to flower early and over a long period of time. They are not as easily thrown off flowering by high nitrogen levels as vegetables are. As a matter of fact, providing nitrogen through the growing season (sidedressing) can help maintain an effective flower display for warm-season flowers.
 
Apply a high nitrogen sidedressing four to six weeks after flowers have been set out. Additional fertilizations every three to four weeks can be helpful during a rainy summer, or if flower beds are irrigated. Common sources of nitrogen-only fertilizers include nitrate of soda, urea, and ammonium sulfate. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains primarily, but not exclusively, nitrogen. Use only one of the listed fertilizers and apply at the rate given below.
 
Nitrate of soda (16-0-0): Apply 1/3 pound (.75 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
Blood Meal (12-1.5-.6): Apply 7 ounces (7/8 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
​Urea (46-0-0): Apply 2 ounces (1/4 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0): Apply 4 ounces (½ cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
 
If you cannot find the above materials, you can use a lawn fertilizer that is about 30 percent nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number in the set of three) and apply it at the rate of 3 ounces (3/8 cup) per 100 square feet. Do not use a fertilizer that contains a weed killer or weed preventer.  (Ward Upham)

Spring-Flowering Bulb Foliage Can Be Removed

old foliage on spring bulbs
It is important to leave spring-flowering bulb foliage in place until it “ripens” or becomes brown.  The energy produced by the leaves after flowering is transferred to the bulb so that it can flower the following year.
 
The ripening  process should be near completion about now for tulips, daffodils and various other spring- flowering bulbs.  Use clippers, scissors or even a mower to remove dead foliage.  Also, try to map out where the bulbs are planted as there will be no foliage to make the location next fall when it is time to fertilize.  (Ward Upham)

Rose Rosette

rose rosette
Rose rosette is a serious problem in Kansas on wild roses (Rosa multiflora) in pastures and hedges. It is also found in domestic rose plantings.
 
Infection is thought to start with rapid elongation of a new shoot. The rapid shoot growth may continue for several weeks to a length of two to three feet. Following shoot elongation, a witches' broom or clustering of small branches occurs. The stems develop excessive thorniness and produce small, deformed leaves with a reddish-purple pigmentation. Stems and petioles of Rosa multiflora plants may have reddish blotches or streaks.
 
Rose plants infected with the rose rosette virus die rapidly, usually within one to two years. Rose rosette is caused by a Emaravirus species.  Transmission of the disease has been shown experimentally through grafting and is also thought to be spread by mites. Though KnockOut roses are resistant to many diseases, they are susceptible to this one.
 
There is no effective control measure for infected plants. In garden settings, infected plants should be removed and destroyed, including roots. Any roots that remain after plant removal may produce infected shoots which can harbor the disease. If possible, eliminate all multiflora rose plants from the vicinity as they are extremely susceptible and will act as a carrier. Multiflora rose is the wild rose often seen growing in ditches and pastures.
 
Since the disease can be transmitted by pruning shears, disinfect the shears when moving from one plant to another by using rubbing alcohol or a disinfectant such as Lysol. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
European Fruit Lecanium Scale: Adding a "Decorative Touch" to Bald Cypress

European fruit lecanium scale
The European fruit lecanium scale (Parthenolecanium cornii) is quite noticeable on bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) twigs and branches. The damage associated with this scale, which depends on the extensiveness of the infestation, includes plant stunting and wilting. The European fruit lecanium scale is a soft scale, so honeydew (a sticky, clear liquid) will be produced during feeding. The honeydew serves as a substrate for black sooty mold and attracts ants. In addition, honeydew can drip onto vehicles parked underneath infested trees leaving unsightly residue.
 
The scales are dark brown, 1/8 to 1/4 inches in diamete. Some scales may have white markings on the body. European fruit lecanium scale overwinters as an immature on twigs and branches with maturing occurring in spring. In May and June, females lay many eggs underneath their bodies. In June eggs hatch into small tan-colored crawlers. The duration of an egg hatch can last several days depending on the temperature. Crawlers migrate to leaf undersides and subsequently feed on plant fluids until late summer. At that point, the crawlers migrate back onto twigs and branches to complete their development the following spring. There is one generation per year in Kansas.
 
Management of European fruit lecanium scale primarily involves timely applications of insecticides.  Applications should be made when crawlers are present because the crawlers are most vulnerable life stage to insecticide sprays. Mature scales possess a shell-like covering that protects them from exposure to insecticides. Repeat applications will be required as the eggs do not all hatch simultaneously but may hatch over a three to four-week period. The most appropriate time to apply insecticides is in late June to early July when the crawlers are feeding on leaves; thus enhancing their exposure to any spray residues. There are a number of insecticides, with contact activity that are effective in suppressing populations of the European fruit lecanium scale. However, many have broad-spectrum activity and will kill many natural enemies including: parasitoids and predators. In fact, most outbreaks of scale insects are caused by the indiscriminate use of pesticides (insecticides and miticides). Therefore, always read the label and exercise caution when applying any pesticide. In the winter, dormant oils can be applied to kill overwintering scales by means of suffocation.
 
I need to acknowledge Jeff Otto of Wichita, KS for bringing to my attention that European fruit lecanium scale was active. I have also observed infestations in Manhattan, KS.  (Raymond Cloyd)

Oak Vein Pocket Gall Info Available

oak vein pocket gall
As with many areas in Kansas, Sedgwick County has seen a high level of oak vein pocket gall this year. Matthew McKernan, our Sedgwick County Horticulture Agent and Dr. Raymond Cloyd, our Horticulture Extension Entomologist, have put together a two page fact sheet discussing the problem. Excellent photos and informative text make this a timely and valuable resource for those who need more information on this subject. You can find the publication at: http://www.hfrr.k-state.edu/doc/hort-tips/Oak-Vein-Pocket-Gall.pdf
(Ward Upham)

Pests:
Ticks

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Ticks are very active throughout the state, and have been for the past month. The most commonly reported
species has been the American dog tick, Dermacentor variabilis.

The cool, humid weather over the past month has provided great conditions for tick development.  These annoying, and potentially dangerous parasites have even been encountered in corn fields, which is unusual as they typically develop in more undisturbed areas of grasses, weeds, and other overgrown vegetation. But, they are very good at finding hosts and getting the blood meal they require for development and reproduction. For more information on ticks in Kansas, please visit: https://www.vet.k-state.edu/vhc/docs/ticks-in-kansas.pdf.  (Jeff Whitworth and Holly Schwarting)

Still Early to Treat Bagworms

Bagworm
Many bagworms have hatched and have come out of the mother's bag but we are still a bit early to treat as we may miss those that are late to emerge.  The latter half of June is a good target to treat for these insects. However, make sure you have living bagworms as sometimes natural predators and parasites provide good levels of control. Look for a miniature version of the mature bagworm. They are still tiny and are about the size of the lead point on a pencil.
 
Insecticides commonly used for controlling bagworms include spinosad (Conserve; Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar Spray; Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew, Bonide Caterpillar Killer), Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel, Thuricide), acephate (Acephate, Orthene, Bonide Systemic Insect Control), cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray) and permethrin (numerous trade names). Products containing Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) are only effective when used against bagworm larvae while they are still small. Note that spinosad and BT are both organic but spinosad is a more effective product, especially on larger larvae.
 
Thorough coverage is vital for good control. Most failures are due to the spray not penetrating deep enough in the tree rather than the insecticide not working. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
After-Effects of Too Much Rain

water logged plants
Some areas of Kansas have had saturated or near-saturated soils for several weeks now. Gardeners are likely to assume that watering won’t be needed for quite some time now as soil moisture levels are very high. Actually, watering may be needed much sooner than you expect. Excessive rain can drive oxygen out of the soil and literally drown roots.
Therefore, as we enter hotter, drier weather, the plants with damaged root systems may be very susceptible to a lack of water. Don’t forget to check your plants for signs of wilting or leaf scorching and water as needed.
 
If irrigation is called for, water deeply and infrequently. Usually once per week is sufficient depending on the weather. Soil should be moist but not waterlogged. (Ward Upham)
 
Contributors: Raymond Cloyd, Extension Entomologist; Holly Schwarting, Entomology; Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Jeff Whitworth, Entomology

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 19

5/10/2016

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Video of the Week:
Cantaloupe: Varieties for Small Spaces

Upcoming Events:
Garden Tour in Kansas City Area

The Johnson County Extension Master Gardeners Public Garden Tour will be held May 20 and 21. Six private gardens will be open to the public. Each garden is unique and has something of interest for gardeners. For more information visit www.johnson.k-state.edu for more information

Vegetables:
'Staggering' Sweet Corn Planting

sweet corn planting
Sweet corn is one of those crops that is only "good" for a few days. If you want longer periods of production, consider staggering the planting. In other words, plant a small block, wait a period of time, and then plant the next block. Though it is tempting to follow a calendar schedule, such as planting a small block every week, it is better to use crop development as a trigger. If you plant on a calendar schedule, you may have noticed that later plantings often catch up with earlier ones. Instead, plant the next block of sweet corn when the previous one is one-half to one inch tall. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Thinning Excess Fruit

apples on tree
Some areas of Kansas have avoided late freezes resulting in a heavy fruit crop this year. At first glance, this might seem to be a good thing. But too many fruit can cause problems that should be alleviated with thinning. For example, a heavy fruit crop can interfere with fruit bud development this summer. This can result in a small to no crop next year. This problem most often appears with apples. Thus, thinning helps ensure that good crops are produced each year.

The second benefit of thinning is to promote larger fruit on this year’s crop. Fruit trees are limited in how many fruit they can mature. Too many fruit and fruit size goes down.

A third problem often caused by too many fruit is limb damage. Sometimes the weight of a maturing fruit crop can literally break branches. Thinning will help limit weight and preserve branches.

So how much thinning should we do? Thinning recommendations vary with the type of tree.

Guidelines for fruit spacing are as follows:
Apples and pears: 4 to 6 inches apart;
Peaches: 6 to 8 inches apart;
Plums and prunes: 4 to 5 inches apart;
Apricots: 2 to 4 inches between fruit.

​These are averages and so you may have several fruit clustered closer than this distance. As long as the average on the branch is close to the recommended spacing, the fruit should size well. Cherries are not thinned and can produce a full fruit load. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Cabbage Worms

cabbage worm
This is the time of year we normally start seeing damage from cabbage worms. The imported cabbage worm is usually the first cabbage worm species to appear and is a fuzzy, elongated green worm. Larvae come from eggs laid by the white butterfly often seen flitting around the plants.

Early control is essential to reduce injury. BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) and spinosad (Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew) are effective organic products that are labeled for this pest. BT can be found in Dipel, Thuricide and other similar materials. Direct sunlight deactivates BT quickly so it is helpful to spray late in the day or on a cloudy day.

​Conventional insecticides such as carbaryl (Sevin), malathion and methoxychlor are also effective but will kill natural enemies of these pests. Be sure to hit the underside of leaves where insects feed. Note that hitting the underside of leaves is easier when using a dust applied with a duster than when using a liquid spray. (Ward Upham)

Bristly Rose Slug

bristly rose slug
This insect has been skeletonizing rose leaves in the Kansas City area. This is not a caterpillar but is the larva of a sawfly. Close examination of this small (½ inch) larva will reveal very fine, hairlike spines in clusters.

Young larvae will remove the green layer of a leaf leaving behind a clear material. As the larvae mature, they make holes in the leaf and eventually may consume all of the leaf but the major veins.

​Since these insects are not caterpillars (larvae of moths or butterflies), BT, found in Dipel and Thuricide will not be an effective treatment. However, a strong jet of water will dislodge the slugs and make it difficult for them to return to the plant. Other effective treatments include insecticidal soap, horticultural oils, spinosad (Fertilome Borer Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew) and permethrin (various trade names). (Ward Upham)

Ladybird Beetles

ladybird beetle larvae
​Both the adults and the larvae of the ladybird beetle are beneficial and do not feed on plants but rather on other insects including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, scale insects and the eggs of various other insects. So if you see these insects, do not spray. The larval form looks like a very small alligator-shaped insect. Larvae are covered with spines, about 3/8-inch long, and black with orange markings. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Vein Pocket Galls on Oak

vein pocket gall on oak leaf
marginal pocket gall on oak leaf
Like last year, we are seeing a high number of oak galls this year, especially vein pocket gall on pin oak leaves. Vein pocket gall causes abnormal swelling of the leaf near the veins.

We also saw an outbreak of oak leaf itch mites last year. This mite feeds on the larvae of the midge fly that actually causes certain types of oak leaf galls. Though the marginal leaf gall is more commonly associated with oak leaf itch mite, the mite can also feed on the larvae in vein pocket galls. However, a large number of vein pocket galls do not necessarily mean we will have an outbreak of oak leaf itch mite like we had last year. This will be a “wait and see” situation.

Actually, there are hundreds of different types of galls, each of which is caused by a specific insect or mite. Insects that can cause different galls on oaks include tiny, nonstinging wasps and flies which cause abnormal growths to develop on the leaves, twigs or branches of oak trees. The galls caused by mites can include growths that are round, spiny, flattened, elongated or star-shaped.

Galls form in response to a chemical that the insect or mite injects into the plant tissue. Eggs laid by a mature female hatch into legless grubs around which the gall forms. The larvae feed, develop, and pupate inside these galls. The adults may emerge either the same season or may overwinter inside the gall depending on the life history of that specific insect.

Generally, these gall insects do not cause significant damage to their hosts, though some of the leaf galls can cause enough deformity to make a tree unsightly. Also, severe infestations of twig galls can cause twig dieback or, rarely, tree death. However, just because a twig is covered with galls does not mean it is dead. I have seen twigs that looked like a solid mass of galls leaf out in the spring.

Insecticide sprays applied when galls are noticed are ineffective because damage has already occurred. Also, larvae are unaffected because of the protection afforded by the gall. Insecticide sprays can kill emerging adult wasps and flies, but long emergence periods and short residuals of most contact insecticides make this impractical. Stem and twig galls can be pruned if this is deemed to be practical and necessary. Fortunately, natural predators and parasites usually bring these insects under control given a year or two. Therefore, the best option is usually to do nothing.

​What about the itch mites? More bad news. We have found nothing can effectively kill or repel these mites. The only means of defense is to avoid contact. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Moving Houseplants Outside for the Summer

houseplant outside
It is often helpful to set many houseplants outside for the summer so they can recover from the low light levels endured during the winter months. As soon as night temperatures stay consistently above 55 degrees F, houseplants can be moved to their summer home. Choose a spot that has dappled shade, is protected from the wind and is close to water. A porch or a spot that receives shade from trees or buildings will work well. Putting houseplants in full sun will cause the leaves to photooxidize or sunburn because the leaves have become adapted to low light levels inside the house. Where possible, sink the pots into the ground to help moderate root temperatures and reduce watering frequency.

​If you have a number of plants, dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep (or deeper if you have larger pots) and long enough to accommodate all of your plants without crowding. Place peat moss under and around the pots. Peat moss holds water, helps keep the pots cool and reduces evaporation from clay pots. About every two weeks, rotate the pots a quarter turn to break off any roots that have penetrated the peat moss surrounding the pot and to equalize the light received on all sides of the pot. Water as needed. If the potting soil is dry a half-inch deep in the pot, it is time to water. (Ward Upham)

Rabbits in the Garden

rabbit
Rabbits in gardens are a perennial problem because of the wide variety of plants they can feed on. This time of year, they gravitate to young vegetables and flowers. But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers, and some peppers. The question is how do you protect other, more susceptible plants? Fencing provides a quick and effective control method. The fence does not need to be tall; 2 feet is sufficient for cottontails. But the mesh must be sufficiently fine (1 inch or less) so young rabbits will not be able to go through it. Support for the fence can be supplied by a number of products, but electric fence posts work well.

Often fencing is not an acceptable choice because it affects the attractiveness of the garden. Other ways to control rabbits including repellents, trapping and shooting. Repellents are often suggested for control but often do not last long and require frequent reapplication. Also, many are poisonous and cannot be used on plants or plant parts destined for human consumption. Live traps can be used to collect and move the rabbits to a rural area several miles from where they were trapped. A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together with a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.

Another possibility is to use a motion-activated sprinkler. These are attached to a garden hose and release a short burst of water when motion is detected. Contech, Orbit and Havahart are suppliers and each is advertised as protecting up to at least 1,000 square feet. Shooting is another possibility when it is safe and legal to do so. (Ward Upham)
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Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 18

5/3/2016

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Video of the Week:
Hydrangea Macrophylla

Turfgrass:
Fertilize Irrigated Cool-Season Lawns in May

tall fescue lawn
May is an excellent time to fertilize cool-season lawns such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass if they will be irrigated throughout the summer. Non-irrigated lawns often go through a period of summer dormancy because of drought and do not need this fertilization.
 
May is a good time to fertilize because the springtime flush of growth characteristic of these grasses has tapered off, so the fertilizer you apply will be less likely to cause excessive shoot growth than if you fertilized at a full rate in April. Slow-release nitrogen sources are ideal. These nitrogen sources promote controlled growth, which is desirable as the stressful summer weather approaches. Relatively few fertilizers available to the homeowner supply ALL of the nitrogen in the slowly available form. But one such product that is widely available is Milorganite. Other such products available in the retail market include cottonseed meal, alfalfa-based fertilizers, and any other products derived from plants or animals. (Bloodmeal is an exception, and contrary to popular belief, the nitrogen it supplies is quickly available.) These products are all examples of natural organic fertilizers. They typically contain less than 10 percent nitrogen by weight, so compared to most synthetic fertilizers, more product must be applied to get the same amount of nitrogen. Translation: they are more expensive! Apply enough to give the lawn one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For example, if the fertilizer is 6 percent nitrogen by weight, you will need to apply almost 17 pounds of fertilizer product per 1,000 square feet. Summer lawn fertilizers that contain at least a portion of the nitrogen as slow-release are fine to use as well. Be sure to follow label directions. If cost is prohibitive, you can use the less expensive quick-release (i.e., soluble) sources, but split the application into two doses as follows: apply enough to give the lawn 0.5 lb nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in May and again in early June. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Be on the Lookout for Peach Leaf Curl and Plum Pocket

peach leaf curl
Peach leaf curl is a fungus disease that causes developing peach leaves to become puckered and distorted and show a reddish-green hue. A similar disease called plum pocket may develop on American and sand hill plums. Plum pocket results in formation of distorted, light green, bladder-shaped fruit. Asian and European plums are not susceptible to the local strain of plum pocket. Unfortunately, it is too late to control these diseases with fungicides this year.
 
Trees that are severely infected with peach leaf curl are likely to lose many leaves. If trees are healthy, new leaves will grow. Indicators of a healthy tree are large, deep green leaves and last year's growth being at least 18 to 24 inches long. If these tree vigor indicators are not present, especially if there was only 12 inches or less of growth last year, then a fertilizer application would be helpful.
 
The fertilizer should be spread on the soil under the branch area. Apply 1 and 1/3 to 2 cups of a 13-13-13 fertilizer under the branch area. If a soil test indicates that only nitrogen is needed, use 1/3 to 1½ cups of nitrate of soda (16-0-0) instead of the 13-13-13. You may also substitute a high nitrogen fertilizer such as a 27-3-4, 30-5-4 or something similar for the 13-13-13, but use only half the amount used for nitrate of soda. The sooner fertilizer is applied, the more immediate benefit it will have in promoting new leaf growth. Both peach leaf curl and plum pocket can be controlled with a single fungicide application applied this fall after leaf drop or early next spring before bud swell.
 
Effective fungicides include Bordeaux mixture and chlorothalonil (Bravo, Daconil and others). Be sure to cover the entire tree including the bark and trunk. (Ward Upham)

Fruit Sprays and Spray Water pH

commercial sprayer
Two of the common pesticides used in fruit tree sprays are malathion (for insects) and captan (for diseases). Unfortunately, both of these products are subject to alkaline hydrolysis. This is a process whereby certain pesticides will break down when mixed with high pH water. So let’s say you mix up your spray mixture by adding malathion and captan to 5 gallons of water. If that water has a pH of 7, the captan will break down so that only half of it will still be present in 8 hours.
 
However, if the water you use has a pH of 10, half the captan will break down in 2 minutes. Malathion isn’t nearly as sensitive but still will break down under high pH conditions though it is stable at a pH between 5 and 7. Note that alkaline hydrolysis does not affect all pesticides. Captan is the exception, not the rule. 
 
So, how do you bring down the pH of your spray water if it is high? Commercial people use buffering agents but that may be difficult for homeowners to find. Food grade citric acid can help. If you have a pH of 8.0, add 2 ounces of this citric acid per 100 gallons of water (1 and 1/4 teaspoons per 10 gallons) to bring the pH down to about 5.5. (Ward Upham)

Peaches and Apricots

fruit tree
Some parts of Kansas will have at least a partial peach crop that wasn’t killed by late frosts. To take advantage of this good fortune certain things should be done as the fruit matures to ensure a good harvest.
 
Control insects and diseases: Though it is too late to control peach leaf curl (see http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc3168.ashx ), it is possible to control scab and brown rot.  Insects of concern are plum curculio, oriental fruit moth, plant bugs, and stink bugs. Use Captan or Immunox to control the diseases, and malathion to control the insects. Spray every 10 to 14 days. Pay attention to the waiting period between the last spray and harvest. See the publication, “Fruit Pest Control for Home Gardens” at http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/c592.pdf   for details including organic controls.
 
Thin peaches: Thin peaches to 1 every 6 to 8 inches to maximize fruit size and to decrease the load on the branches. As a general rule, we need about 40 leaves per peach for maximum quality. Peaches are borne in clusters, so calculate how many a branch can support by dividing the length of the branch in inches by 7. As long as there is an average of 7 inches of branch length per peach, it doesn’t matter whether the peaches are in clusters or not.
 
Water Trees as Needed:   The most critical time for adequate water is during the pit hardening stage which usually lasts between 2 to 4 weeks. Cut open a few peaches to determine when the pit starts to harden or become woody. Irregular watering during this period can lead to split peaches.
 
Prop up branches if needed: Prop up branches if the fruit load is so heavy the tree may break apart. Use boards with a “V” cut in one end to support the branch. Prune the branch back to a smaller side branch next spring (March). (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Blackspot of Roses

blackspot of roses
A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungus disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop.

 The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant.  Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (>85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F) and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water.
 
Cultural practices are the first line of defense.
 
1. Don't plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. For a list of blackspot resistant varieties, go to:  http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/weeklypics/3-22-04.html
 
2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works well with roses.
 
3. Plant roses in sun in areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet.
 
4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum.
 
If needed, protect foliage with a regular spray program (10- to 14-day schedule) of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs), myclobutanil (Immunox, Immunox Plus), triticonazole (Ortho Rose & Flower Disease Control) and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Fungicide, Garden Disease Control, others). (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Excessive Rain Can Cause Leaf Problems

reddening leaves
Leaves Turning Yellow or Red: In Kansas we often see chlorosis (yellowing) of plant leaves due to high pH soils making iron unavailable.  However, there can other causes that result in similar symptoms. For example, we have received so much rain in certain parts of the state recently that plants are unable to take up the nutrients needed to maintain a good green color. The cause of this condition is actually a lack of oxygen in the soil due to soil pore space being filled with water.
 
This lack of oxygen to the roots often results in a yellowing of foliage. In certain plants such as oaks and maples, however, it may also lead to a reddening of some of the newer leaves. Fortunately, color changes due to wet soils will be corrected as soils dry. Plants should regain their color when we return to more normal weather.
 
Trees Shedding Leaves: If trees shed leaves in a general shedding with all parts of the tree losing some leaves, then there is no cause for concern. A general shedding of the leaves is most often due to weather turning hot and dry. The tree drops leaves because the root system can no longer keep up. Dropping leaves helps balance the amount of water available from the root system and the amount needed by the leaves.
 
However, the same thing can happen if the soil is too wet. A lack of oxygen in the soil compromises the root system so it can no longer support all the leaves. Therefore, the tree drops some leaves to bring the tree roots and leaves back into balance. The tree will retain more than enough leaves to remain healthy. (Ward Upham)

Recent Rains Trigger Mushroom Development

mushrooms in lawn
The frequent, heavy rains in certain areas of the state have resulted in the appearance of mushrooms in home lawns and landscape beds.  Although mushrooms are often spectacular in size and color, most are relatively harmless to plant life. Some of these mushrooms are associated with arc-like or circular patterns in turfgrass called fairy rings. The ring pattern is caused by the outward growth of fungal mycelium. The mycelium forms a dense, mat-like structure in the soil that decomposes organic matter. This decomposition releases nitrate into the soil, which in turn stimulates the growth of the grass at the outer portion of the ring. This results in a dark green appearance of the grass at the margin of the ring.
 
Unfortunately, the thick fungal mat formed by the fungus interferes with water infiltration. The fungus also may release certain byproducts that are toxic to the turf. This can lead to dieback of the turf close to the ring. Fairy rings are difficult to control. You can sometimes eliminate the ring by digging to a depth of 6 to 12 inches and 12 inches wide on both sides of the ring, refilling the hole with non-infested soil. Or you can try to mask the symptoms by fertilizing the rest of the lawn so that it is as dark green as the ring. This often isn't a good idea because it tends to promote other turf problems. Commercial people can use certain fungicides to control fairy rings but these products are not available to homeowners. See http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/EP155.pdf  for more info on these fungicides.
 
Some mushrooms in lawns are not associated with fairy rings. These may be mycorrhizal (symbiotic association with tree roots) or saprophytic (live on dead organic matter such as wood, etc.) in the soil. Because some of these mushrooms are beneficial, you don't really want to kill them. Besides, a fungicide spray to the mushroom itself does little good. Remember the mushroom is simply the fruiting structure of the organism. Most of the fungus is below ground and inaccessible to the chemical. If mushrooms are a nuisance, pick them and dispose of them as soon as they appear. Remove sources of large organic debris from the soil. Also, mushrooms tend to go away as soil dries. Patience may be the best control. Some of the mushrooms in the lawn are edible, but others are poisonous. Never eat mushrooms unless you are sure of their identity. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Aphids

aphids
Aphids are small insects, about an eighth of an inch long. They are soft-bodied, pear-shaped and of many colors, such as green, black, gray, yellow or red. Some are winged during certain times of the year.
 
Aphids feed by sucking sap from buds, leaves, twigs and developing fruit. Most of that sap is passed through their body and ejected through two small “pipes” known as cornicles that project from the rear of their bodies. This ejected, sticky
material is called honeydew. This honeydew often becomes black with sooty mold fungus. Automobiles parked under trees with large aphid populations will often be spotted with honeydew. Though the finish will not be harmed by the honeydew, it is a hassle to clean off.
 
Aphids usually are controlled effectively by nature. Adverse weather conditions such as beating rains and low temperatures, as well as fungus diseases, insect predators and parasites, keep the aphids in check. Aphid enemies include lady beetles, syrphid fly larvae, aphis lions and small wasp parasites known as braconids.
 
Most insecticide applications destroy beneficial insects as well as pests and leave trees or shrubs unprotected if pest resurgence occurs. Because beneficial insects play an important role in natural aphid control, try washing aphids away with a forceful stream of water (if practical) before using insecticide sprays.
 
If control measures are warranted, use insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, malathion, cyfluthrin or permethrin. Reapplication may be needed. Imidacloprid (Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control, 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect Control, Max Tree and Shrub Insect Control, Bonide Systemic Granules IC, Bayer Tree and Shrub Insect Control) is a systemic insecticide that can be used to prevent aphid populations from building but must by applied early to allow time for the pesticide to move to the new growth. This time period may vary from one week to three months depending on the size of the plant with very large trees taking the most time. (Ward Upham)

Sawfly Larvae on Ash

sawfly larvae
We had a report last week from the Wichita area that a number of ash trees have ash sawfly larvae feeding on the leaves.
 
These sawfly larvae are a light green color with a broad, whitish stripe on the top side.  In the middle of the whitish stripe there appears to be a darker green stripe that is actually the digestive tract of the insect.  Though sawfly larvae resemble caterpillars, they have at least six pairs of "stublike" prolegs behind the three pairs of true legs on their abdomen. (Caterpillars never have more than five pairs of prolegs.)
 
There are usually no detrimental effects to the health of the tree if nature is allowed to run its course. Even if all the leaves are eaten, it is early enough in the growing season for trees to put out a complete new set of leaves and still has enough time to make all the food reserves needed to survive the coming winter. However, if control is desired, a number of insecticides can be used for control including cyfluthrin (Bayer Lawn and Garden Multi-Insect Killer), malathion, esfenvalerate (Monterey Bug Buster II) and carbaryl (Sevin). An effective organic product is spinosad (Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew; Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray; Monterey Garden Insect Spray). Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are also effective because of the soft skin of sawfly larvae. (Ward Upham)
 
Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

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