Most spider mites like hot and dry weather and we are seeing populations start to explode. Look for stippling on the upper surface of the leaves as well as some fine
webbing on the underside of the leaves. These tiny arthropods (they are not true insects) are often difficult to see due to their size and their habit of feeding on the underside of leaves. If mites are suspected, hold a sheet of white paper beneath a
leaf and tap the leaf. Mites will be dislodged and can be seen as tiny specks on the paper that move about.
Spider mite control can be challenging. A strong jet of water can be used to remove the mites but may not be as easy as it sounds. A high-pressure directed spray is needed to dislodge the mites.

Since spider mites feed on the underside of the leaves, the spray is most effective if it comes from below. This can be difficult to accomplish with a thumb over the end of the hose. Some gardeners use a water wand hooked to a shut-off valve. The water breaker is then replaced by a brass nozzle. Specialized spray wands can also be used. For example, Mite-Y-Fine (miteyfine.com) has a wand that makes spraying the underside of leaves easy. Spraying once will not be enough. It is recommended to use 3 sprays spaced 3 to 4 days apart.

Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps (Safers, for example) can also be helpful. Spray early in the morning when temperatures are cooler and plants have rehydrated. Resprays will likely be needed. (Ward Upham)

July 26        K-State Flower Field Day, Olathe
https://www.eventbrite.com/e/k-state-flower-field-day-tickets-26105824223
 
July 30        K-State Research & Extension Center Horticulture Field Day, Olathe
http://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/horticulture-field-day.html
 
August 4     Kansas Turfgrass Field Day, Manhattan
https://turffieldday.eventbrite.com

Temperatures that remain above 75 degrees F at night and day temperatures above 95 degrees F with dry, hot winds will cause poor fruit set on tomatoes. High temperatures interfere with pollen viability and/or cause excessive style growth leading to a lack of pollination.
 
It usually takes about 3 weeks for tomato flowers to develop into fruit large enough to notice that something is wrong and an additional week before tomatoes are full size and ready to start ripening.
 
Though there are "heat-set" tomatoes such as Florida 91, Sun Leaper and Sun Master that will set fruit at higher temperatures, that difference is normally only 2 to 3 degrees. Cooler temperatures will allow flowers to resume fruit set. (Ward Upham)

We have seen some impressive spider mite damage on tomatoes. This is a little surprising considering how little hot and dry weather we have had this summer.
 
Look for stippling on the upper surface of the leaves as well as some fine webbing on the underside of the leaves. These tiny arthropods (they are not true insects) are often difficult to see due to their size and their habit of feeding on the underside of leaves. If mites are suspected, hold a sheet of white paper beneath a leaf and tap the leaf. Mites will be dislodged and can be seen as tiny specks on the paper that move about.
 
Spider mite control can be challenging. A strong jet of water can be used to remove the mites but may not be as easy as it sounds. A high-pressure directed spray is needed to dislodge the mites. Since spider mites feed on the underside of the leaves, the spray is most effective if it comes from below. This can be difficult to accomplish with a thumb over the end of the hose.
 
Some gardeners use a water wand hooked to a shut-off valve. The water breaker is then replaced by a brass nozzle.  Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps (Safers, for example) can also be helpful. Spray early in the morning when temperatures are cooler and plants have rehydrated. Resprays will likely be needed. (Ward Upham)

Peaches are best when ripened on the tree but fruit growers may wish to pick a bit early to prevent damage from birds, have a higher pectin content for jams and jellies or to have firmer fruit for canning.
 
Peaches that are mature enough to pick are still hard. They do not give when lightly squeezed. However, these peaches will ripen off the tree and will have very good quality. They may not be quite as sweet as a tree-ripened peach but are still very good. So what do we look for to tell if a peach is mature enough to harvest? Let’s look at a couple of factors.
 
Color:  The reddish coloration is not a good indicator. Look instead for what is called the “ground color.” This is the part of the peach that does not turn red; for example, around the stem. The ground color of the peach will lose its greenish tinge and turn yellow when the peach is mature enough to harvest. I use this characteristic more to determine when NOT to pick a peach. If there is any green in the ground color, it is too early. If the ground color is yellow, then I move to the next characteristic.
 
Ease of Removal:  A mature peach will separate easily from the branch if the peach is lifted and twisted. If it doesn’t, it is not mature enough to pick yet.  All peaches will not be ready to pick at the same time. Pick only those that are ready and come back later for more. It often takes 3 to 5 pickings to harvest a peach tree.
 
Peaches that are picked early but will be used for fresh eating should be allowed to ripen inside at room temperature. Once they are ripe, they can be refrigerated to preserve them for enjoyment over a longer period of time. (Ward Upham)

Green June beetle (Cotinis nitida) adults are actively flying around and “bumping” into people and objects. Adults are 3/4 to 1.0 inches in length, and velvety-green, tinged with yellow-brown coloration. Green stripes with yellow-orange margins extend lengthwise on the front wings. The underside of the body is distinctly shiny and metallic green or gold. Adults fly like “dive bombers” over turfgrass for several weeks in mid-summer.
 
The green June beetle has a one-year life cycle, and overwinters as a mature larva (grub). Adults emerge in late-June and are active during the day, resting at night on plants or in thatch. The adults produce a sound that resembles that of bumble bees. Adults will feed on ripening fruits and may occasionally feed on plant leaves. The male beetles swarm in the morning, “dive bombing” to-and-fro above the turfgrass searching for females that are located in the turfgrass (they are desperately seeking a mate). Females emit a pheromone that attracts males. Eventually, clusters of beetles will be present on the surface of the soil or turfgrass with several males attempting to mate with a single female (I think this qualifies as an “insect orgy”). Mated females that have survived the experience lay a cluster of 10 to 30 eggs into moist soil that contains an abundance of organic matter. Eggs hatch in about 2 weeks in early August and the young larvae feed near the soil surface. The larvae feed primarily on organic matter including thatch and grass-clippings; preferring soils that are excessively moist. Larvae are 3/8 (early instars) to 1.5 (later instars) inches in length, and exhibit a strange behavioral trait—they crawl on their back.  (Raymond Cloyd)

Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate them and increase flowering.
 
Iris may be divided from late July through August, but late July through early August is ideal.  Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength.
 
Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting.
 
Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show phosphorus levels that are quite high. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than second (phosphorus). (Ward Upham)

I recently received a kind email from an Extension Master Gardener noting an unfortunate typo on the “Evergreen Shrubs for Kansas” (MF3117) publication. On page 5, I mistakenly swapped one letter in the common plant name rendering Taxus xmedia’s title “Anglojap Jew” instead of “Anglojap Yew.” This is, indeed, distasteful and I appreciate the thorough review, which noted the appropriate name use on pages 3 and 6 of the same publication.
 
This is a teachable moment, however, and I wanted to take the opportunity to clarify that the common name “Anglojap” does not reference a racial slur of any kind. As with many plants, it references its geographic place of origin. “Anglo” comes from “anglicus” meaning “From England; English.” Taxus is native to Japan, Korea and Manchuria, thus the second part of the common name references “japonicus” or Japan. Taxus xmedia is a hybrid of Taxus baccata (English Yew) and Taxus cuspidata (Japanese Yew) and has been in production with the common name Anglojap Yew since 1900.
 
Resources to help understand plant names include, of course, Michael Dirr’s “Manual of Woody Landscape Plants.” Another interesting book is A.W. Smith’s “A Gardener’s Handbook of Plant Names: Their Meanings and Origins.” Fun tidbits from the “A” section of this compendium include:

acanth [ak-anth]
In compound words signifying spiny, spiky, or thorny.
 
Acanthus [ak-AN-thus]
Greek name meaning thorn. In America it is called “bear’s breech” from the size and appearance of the leaf which is very big, broad, and distinctly hairy. The acanthus leaf was a favorite decoration in classical sculpture, as in the capital of the Corinthian column. In England the bear has been dressed up and it is now called “bear’s breeches” despite long-standing authority to the contrary.
 
Bear’s Breeches (Acanthus mollis) is an herbaceous perennial hardy in zones 6 to 10 and is marginal in Kansas. The species name “mollis” means “Soft; with soft hairs.” So the entire Latin name describes the plant leaves: they are large, broad, and covered with soft hairs. This is to say nothing of the flower on bear’s breeches, which is a quite lovely, bold spike of maroon and white that look somewhat like snapdragon flowers and can rise two to three feet above the foliage. Other species of Acanthus include Acanthus spinosus (spiny leaves), Acanthus hungaricus (from the country of Hungary, native to the Balkans, Romania, Greece) and Acanthus montanus (pertaining to mountains, native to Western tropical Africa). Some of these names remind me of the spells in the Harry Potter universe—not so different from the English names with which we’re familiar.
 
Back to the “A” section and I’m learning lots of plant history. Take Abelia for instance:
Abelia [ab-EE-lia]
Ornamental shrubs named for Dr. Clark Abel (1780-1926), who, at the suggestion of Sir Joseph Banks, accompanied Lord Amherst on his embassy to Peking (1816-1817) as botanist. Much of his collection was lost by shipwreck on the way home to Kew. Except for Russian ecclesiastical mission, no European naturalist was to visit China for nearly thirty years thereafter, Robert Fortune (see Fortunella) being among the first to follow. Abel died in India while serving as personal physician to Lord Amherst, who was by that time Governor-General.
 
I love history! I am always interested in learning about the lives of people who were passionate about similar things. The entry on Fortunella was quite interesting…and long. Robert Fortune (Scottish horticulturalist and plant collector) was a rather well-traveled man in the 1800s (China, India, United States). Most other entries in A.W. Smith’s book are descriptive of origin (“chinensis” = “Chinese”) or botanic characteristic (“serratus” = “saw-toothed” or “hippocastanum” = “Latin name for the horse-chestnut. There is a clearly marked horseshoe under the leaf axils.”).  A few are just really informative related to the historical importance of the plant or people involved in discovering and naming them. As a side note, I have colleagues who regularly go on plant collecting trips so I’m aware that plant names are still being determined in present times. I’m sure taxonomists will continue to delve deep into the appropriate nomenclature as time goes on. Even in my own relatively short time as a horticulturalist I know several plants for which the scientific name has been changed (and in some cases, changed back!).
 
Suffice it to say, there is much more to know about scientific plant names, their meanings and origins. However, I hope this narrative provides some perspective on the primary common name of such a common landscape plant in our region as Anglojap Yew. Naming a plant is an honor and never meant to cause harm or disrespect. Often their names even include warnings as in firethorn, Pyracantha coccinea, which means “thorns with scarlet fruit.” Just make sure to steer clear of Toxicodendron radicans (a toxic plant with rooting stems—poison ivy) or Ilex vomitoria (yaupon holly—great landscape shrub actually, just, you know, don’t eat large quantities of it, okay?) this summer.
 
The aforementioned publication has been updated in the electronic file on the KSRE Bookstore, for those of you wishing to have a new copy. We’re grateful for folks who take the time to let us know when something like that needs to be repaired. (Cheryl Boyer)
 
Contributors: Raymond Cloyd, Extension Entomologist; Cheryl Boyer, Nursery Crops Specialist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

This leaf spot disease of oak is showing up earlier and is more severe this year than normal.  Members of the red oak group are more likely to be affected than those in the white oak group, but members of both groups are showing symptoms now. Red oaks often have distinct round spots as well as dead areas that follow the veins. White oaks also have the dead areas that follow the veins and large blotches of dead tissue but lack the distinct spots.  Leaves severely damaged may drop.  However, trees rarely lose enough leaves to harm the health of the tree.  No fungicide sprays are recommended. (Ward Upham)

Tree squirrels can cause a couple types of tree damage. Most commonly they clip the tips of branches. The length of severed branches is often 2 to 3 feet though they can be longer or shorter. When squirrels snip off a branch, they cut it at about a 45-degree angle and the cut is rather tattered. This is a nuisance type of damage and normally does not hurt the health of the tree.

More serious damage is caused when squirrels strip the bark off of limbs or rarely, the trunk.  Wounds can be quite large and the squirrel can effectively girdle the branch by removing all the bark completely around the circumference. Branches girdled in this way will die and the tree may be ruined if those branches are major.

Why squirrels do this is still a bit of a mystery. Some people think it is simply a means to sharpen their teeth or that they are seeking nesting material or water. Other people think that there are certain squirrels that are high-strung and cause this damage out of nervous energy.

If the damage is limited to snipping the ends off of branches, it is probably best to ignore the activity as the tree suffers little harm. But if real damage is occurring due to extensive bark removal, try feeding and watering them. If that doesn’t work, control may be necessary. Fox and gray squirrels are game animals and can be hunted in season where it is legal and safe to do so.  They can also be trapped and moved away from the area they are causing damage. For more information on control, see http://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/L863.pdf .  (Ward Upham)

These large (1-1/3- to 1-5/8-inch long) wasps fly slowly above the ground. Cicada killers have a black body with yellow marks across the thorax and abdomen. Wings are reddish-orange. Although these wasps are huge, they usually ignore people. Males may act aggressively if they are threatened, but are unable to sting. Females can sting, but are so passive that they rarely do. Even if they do sting, the pain is less than that of smaller wasps such as the yellow jacket or paper wasp and is similar to the sting of a sweat bee.

The cicada killer is a solitary wasp rather than a social wasp like the yellow jacket. The female nests in burrows in the ground. These burrows are quarter-size in diameter and can go 6 inches straight down and another 6 inches horizontally. Adults normally live 60 to 75 days from mid-July to mid-September and feed on flower nectar and sap. The adult female seeks cicadas on the trunks and lower limbs of trees. She stings her prey, flips it over, straddles it and carries it to her burrow. If she has a tree to climb, she will climb the tree so the can get airborne and fly with cicada back to the nest. If not, she will drag it. She will lay one egg per cicada if the egg is left unfertilized. Unfertilized eggs develop into males only. Fertilized eggs develop into females and are given at least two cicadas. Cicadas are then stuffed into the female’s burrow. Each burrow normally has three to four cells with one to two cicadas in each.  However, it is possible for one burrow to have 10 to 20 cells.

Eggs hatch in two to three days, and larvae begin feeding on paralyzed cicadas.  Feeding continues for four to 10 days until only the outer shell of the cicada remains. The larva overwinters inside a silken case. Pupation occurs in the spring. There is one generation per year.

Cicada killers are not dangerous, but they can be a nuisance. If you believe control is necessary, treat the burrows after dark to ensure the female wasps are in their nests. The males normally roost on plants near burrow sites. They can be captured with an insect net or knocked out of the air with a tennis racket during the day. Carbaryl (Sevin) or permethrin may be used for control.

If you would like more detailed information on cicada killers, see Bob Bauernfeind’s article in the July 10, 2015 Kansas Insect Newsletter at http://entomology.k-state.edu/doc/Newsletters/2015/KSInsectNewsletter12.pdf  (Ward Upham)

Most calls on how to control bagworms come in late July to early August when damage appears. Bagworms are difficult to control when they are that large. They are much easier to kill while small. Bagworms overwinter as eggs inside the dead female’s bag. Young larvae normally hatch and emerge during mid to late May in Kansas. Now would be a good time to use control measures if you haven’t already sprayed.  However, make sure the bagworms are present by looking for a miniature version of the mature bagworm.  Also, check to be sure the bagworms are alive before spraying. Predators and parasites  can sometimes naturally control this pest.

Insecticides commonly used for controlling bagworms include acephate (Orthene), permethrin (numerous trade names), cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect spray), bifenthrin (Bug Blaster II, Bug-B-Gon Max Lawn and Garden Insect Killer), lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Caterpillar Killer) and spinosad (Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray; and Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew). Spinosad is an organic control that is very effective on this pest.  Thorough spray coverage of foliage is essential for good control with any of these products. (Ward Upham)

These beetles are notorious for quickly stripping vegetables (especially tomatoes) and ornamentals of their foliage. There are several species of blister beetles which vary in size (often between 0.5-0.75 inch long) and color (such as black, gray or brown-striped), but most are recognized by their elongated, narrow, cylindrical, soft bodies with middle body part (thorax) narrower than the head or wingcovers.

Some home gardeners like to use hand picking as a nonchemical method for controlling these large insects. However, wear gloves and use caution because these beetles contain a substance called cantharidin. This chemical is an irritant capable of blistering internal and external body tissues exposed to the chemical. On tender human skin, body fluids of adult blister beetles may cause large, erect, watery blisters.

Chemical control of blister beetles is also possible. Cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) and gamma- or lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Beetle Killer, Bonide Caterpillar Killer) can be used for control. Cyfluthrin has a 0 day waiting period and lambda-cyhalothrin has a 5-day waiting period on tomatoes. (Ward Upham)

If you have squash or related plants that suddenly wilt and die, you may have squash vine borer. This insect will bore into the stems of squash, zucchini, pumpkins and gourds. Hubbard squash are a favorite, and butternuts are less likely to be attacked than other squash. Cucumbers and melons are usually not a target, although both can be affected by a disease that causes similar symptoms, known as bacterial wilt.

The adult of this insect is a clear-winged moth that resembles a wasp. The forewings are a dark metallic green but the rear wings are clear. The abdomen is orange with black spots. The larva is cream-colored and rather wrinkled. Adults emerge in the spring and lay eggs on or near susceptible plants. Larva bore into the plant and feed for about a month as they move toward the base. Mature larva will exit the plant, burrow into the soil and pupate where they remain until the next year. Each plant can have numerous borers. If you suspect squash vine borer, split the stem of a collapsed plant near where it enters the ground. Infested plants will be hollowed out and mushy and may contain borers. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do at this late stage. Control measures should center on prevention.

Suggested preventative controls would include crushing the dull red eggs before they hatch, excavating larvae from stems before they cause much damage or using insecticide applications. Applications should begin when the vines begin to run (too late for that) and reapplied every seven to 10 days for three to five weeks. Direct the spray at the crown of the plant and the base of runners. Chemicals used for borer control in gardens are permethrin (Bug-No-More Yard & Garden Insect Spray; Eight Vegetable, Fruit & Flower Concentrate; Lawn, Garden, Pet and Livestock Insect Control; Lawn & Garden Insect Killer), bifenthrin (Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II, Bug-B-Gon Max Garden Insect Killer) or carbaryl (Sevin), applied as sprays or dusts. Continue on a 7 to 10 day reapplication schedule for 3 to 5 weeks. If plants wilt, look for the presence of holes and ooze. However, in extreme heat, these plants will wilt in the afternoon even if undamaged by this insect. (Ward Upham)

Many areas of Kansas went through an extremely wet spring.  Gardeners may assume that little watering may be needed this summer as the soils were completely recharged.  However, many will likely need to do more watering than they expect. 

Rain saturated soils can damage root systems.  Excess water drives oxygen out of the soil as pore spaces are filled with water. Every living cell in a plant must have oxygen to live. If there is no oxygen, roots will die. Therefore, many of our plants may need to be babied through the summer.

Newly planted trees are especially vulnerable as they have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care even if the root system was not damaged by saturated soils. 

Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to drill a small hole (1/8") in the side and near the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once, and you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water.

A perforated soaker hose is a great way to water larger trees, a newly established bed or a foundation planting.  See the accompanying article for an inexpensive way to water trees.

In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow. 

Regardless of method used, soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. Record the time that was required to reach 12 inches and then use a time clock for any future waterings.  (Ward Upham)

We mentioned in an accompanying article about using a soaker hose to water trees.  We thought it might be helpful to provide more details. 

Soaker hoses are notorious for non-uniform watering. In other words, you often receive too much water from one part of the hose and not enough from another.  Hooking both the beginning and the end of the soaker hose to a Y-adapter helps equalize the pressure and therefore provide a more uniform watering.  The specific parts you need are shown in the photo above and include the soaker hose, Y-adapter and female to female connector.

It is also helpful if the Y-adapter has shut off valves so the volume of flow can be controlled.  Too high a flow rate can allow water to run off rather than soak in.  

On larger trees, the soaker hose can circle the trunk at a distance within the dripline of the tree but at least ½ the distance to the dripline. The dripline of the tree is outermost reach of the branches. On smaller trees, you may circle the tree several times so that only soil which has tree roots will be watered.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate them and increase flowering.

Iris may be divided from late July through August, but late July through early August is ideal.  Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength.

Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting.

Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show phosphorus levels that are quite high. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than second (phosphorus). (Ward Upham)

Well, that is a question, but probably not the question most of you are thinking about. You may have considered stopping to dig up a plant that caught your eye on the side of the road at one time or another. I, myself, may or may not have participated in one such (ahem)…activity at some point in my life. But is it wise? Well, let’s talk about that for a minute.

First of all, moving a plant from its native place at the height of its season of interest is most often a fatal move. If the season of interest is anytime other than winter (when plants are dormant) then it is likely when the plant is actively growing. You probably notice plants on the side of the road most often when they are in bloom, which takes a great amount of energy (it is reproductive activity, after all). If the plant is actively growing and flowering, then it needs access to as many resources as it can get—all of the roots to gather water, nutrients and leaves to photosynthesize and make food.  Cutting off one of those resources (primarily roots when you dig it up) puts the plant under great stress. It needs a lot of water. If you plant it immediately, it MIGHT survive. It is unlikely to thrive right away if it does survive. More often, the process will kill the plant and your efforts will have been for naught. How disappointing.

There’s a bigger problem with ditch digging that has nothing to do with plant survival. Quite the opposite actually. Ever heard of kudzu, “The Plant That Ate the South?” Kudzu is a climbing vine that traverses anything in its path, including other trees and shrubs, which it shades out and kills. It was first introduced to the U.S. as an ornamental shrub, “an effortless and efficient shade producer” in 1876. Later (in the 30s and 40s), it was rebranded as a remedy for soil erosion and farmers were paid $8 an hour to sow it into more than one million acres of topsoil. Oh my.

Not all invasive species are introduced like kudzu was, but most are as challenging to get rid of as kudzu continues to be. What are invasive plants? These are nonnative, introduced species which have a tendency to spread and are believed to cause damage to the environment, the economy and/or human health. Please note the entire definition —tendency to spread and cause damage. We have a great many introduced ornamental plant species that grow and perform exceptionally well in our climate without also becoming invasive. Indeed, if it were not for plant hunters exploring the world, we would not have nearly the amount of diversity in our landscapes as we do today. Nor is a native-only landscape the only way to garden. It is a way to garden. Introduced species are not necessarily evil. But I digress, perhaps that is a discussion for another article.

The key here is to know what is considered invasive in our part of the world. This information can generally be found by searching for your state name and “invasive species.” The USDA manages lists from a national level and there are often statewide “council” organizations that provide educational material for free. For instance, the Kansas Forest Service (www.kansasforests.org) and the Kansas Native Plant Society (www.kansasnativeplantsociety.org) publish lists of plants considered the worst invasive species in the state. A highlight from this list is Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii), which is quite eye catching both the spring (yellow/white flowers) and in the fall with its abundant bright red berries. But don’t move it to your house.  Wisdom, environ-mental concern and the law should prevail in this situation. It is against federal and state laws to grow or move (intentionally or unintentionally) species considered invasive (www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov/laws/publiclaws.shtml). I can’t calculate the likelihood of “plant police” pursuing you, but now you know better and can do your part to preserve our native lands.

It’s worth noting that not every plant is invasive in every state. For example, butterflybush (Buddleja) is a beautiful, free-flowering woody perennial that is available in just about any size and color you desire. They are excellent choices in the Great Plains. However, in Oregon they are considered invasive and are illegal for nurseries to grow and sell. Traditional species, that is. Because of their free-flowering (and free-seeding), many breeders have worked to develop sterile cultivars (producing 2% or less of viable seed) that can be grown and sold in regions where butterflybush is considered invasive. We benefit from these innovations with new colors, sizes and growth habits. Recent introductions you might be familiar with include the dwarf varieties Low and Behold® ‘Blue Chip’, ‘Blue Chip Jr.’, ‘Ice Chip’, ‘Lilac Chip’ and ‘Pink Micro Chip’. There are also some delicious-sounding cultivars in the Fluttterby Grandé™ series: ‘Blubberry Cobbler Nectar Bush’, ‘Peach Cobbler Nectar Bush’, ‘Sweet Marmalade Nectar Bush’, ‘Tangerine Dream Nectar Bush’ and ‘Vanilla Nectar Bush’. Boy, those marketers sure do know how to make our mouths water for new plants. Since we’re not in Oregon, you don’t need to know the full list of approved butterflybush cultivars. However, the invasive plant discussion is a passionate and nuanced one, which involves many puzzle pieces. In the end, it’s most important to “Know Before You Grow.” And that, my friends, is all anyone can ask.  (Cheryl Boyer)

These small, hopping insects are causing concern among gardeners because they are so noticeable. What people often see first is not the insect but the filaments of white, wool-like wax they leave behind. Nymphs are also coated with this white, powdery wax but adults of the species I've observed (citrus planthopper?) are more of a grayish color with a darker rear end. Only the adults have wings that are held over the body like a pup tent. Nymphs are more flattened and may not appear to be insects at first because of the waxy coating.

Plant injury due to these insects is usually minor. Feeding by large populations may cause death of seedlings or wilting of small twigs of larger plants. Control is usually not recommended because natural enemies often keep flatid planthoppers in check. If control is warranted, a strong stream of water from a hose should knock them off or a number of insecticides may be used including malathion, permethrin, cyfluthrin, and bifenthrin. For a detailed description, check out the University of Georgia Bugwood page at http://wiki.bugwood.org/Archive:Ash/Flatid_Planthoppers   (Ward Upham)

We have seen some impressive spider mite damage on tomatoes.  This is a little surprising considering how little hot and dry weather we have had this summer. 

Look for stippling on the upper surface of the leaves as well as some fine webbing on the underside of the leaves.  These tiny arthropods (they are not true insects) are often difficult to see due to their size and their habit of feeding on the underside of leaves.  If mites are suspected, hold a sheet of white paper beneath a leaf and tap the leaf. Mites will be dislodged and can be seen as tiny specks on the paper that move about.

Spider mite control can be challenging.  A strong jet of water can be used to remove the mites but may not be as easy as it sounds.  A high-pressure directed spray is needed to dislodge the mites.  Since spider mites feed on the underside of the leaves, the spray is most effective if it comes from below.  This can be difficult to accomplish with a thumb over the end of the hose. Some gardeners use a water wand hooked to a shut-off valve.  The water breaker is then replaced by a brass nozzle. 

Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps (Safers, for example) can also be helpful.  Spray early in the morning when temperatures are cooler and plants have rehydrated.  Resprays will likely be needed.  (Ward Upham)

There was a study done in 2005 by Ohio State University that compared the effectiveness of various biorational and natural products to more traditional pesticides. Squash bug was one of the insects that was a target organism. What was interesting is that certain products were more effective at different life stages. The researchers compared the effectiveness of products on young nymphs, old nymphs and adults. Following are the results for squash bug:

Peaches are best when ripened on the tree but fruit growers may wish to pick a bit early to prevent damage from birds, have a higher pectin content for jams and jellies or to have firmer fruit for canning.

Peaches that are mature enough to pick are still hard. They do not give when lightly squeezed.  However, these peaches will ripen off the tree and will have very good quality. They may not be quite as sweet as a tree-ripened peach but are still very good. So what do we look for to tell if a peach is mature enough to harvest? Let’s look at a couple of factors.

Color: The reddish coloration is not a good indicator. Look instead for what is called the “ground color.” This is the part of the peach that does not turn red; for example around the stem.  The ground color of the peach will lose its greenish tinge and turn yellow when the peach is mature enough to harvest. I use this characteristic more to determine when NOT to pick a peach.  If there is any green in the ground color, it is too early. If the ground color is yellow, then I move to the next characteristic.

Ease of Removal: A mature peach will separate easily from the branch if the peach is lifted and twisted. If it doesn’t, it is not mature enough to pick yet.

All peaches will not be ready to pick at the same time. Pick only those that are ready and come back later for more. It often takes 3 to 5 pickings to harvest a peach tree.

Peaches that are picked early but will be used for fresh eating should be allowed to ripen inside at room temperature. Once they are ripe, they can be refrigerated to preserve them for enjoyment over a longer period of time. (Ward Upham)

Robin Ruether has been awarded the “Top 40 under 40” award from Greenhouse Product News Magazine. Robin manages the Prairie Star and Prairie Bloom Trials for Kansas State University. See http://www.prairiestarflowers.com/  She also authors a blog on flower varieties tested by KSU (http://www.prairiestarflowersblog.com/blog ), serves as an All-America Selections judge and contributes to the National Plant Trials Database.  Congratulations to Robin on a job well-done!  Link to original article:  http://www.gpnmag.com/robin-ruether.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Cheryl Boyer, Nursery Crops Specialist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Leaf scorch is starting to show up primarily on maples around the state. This is not a disease but rather a physiological problem associated with damaged roots, storm damage, limited soil area, or hot, dry winds. Moisture is lost so quickly from the leaves that roots can't absorb and transfer water quickly enough to replace what is lost. Though scorch is usually associated with droughty periods, it can appear even when the soil is moist.         

Scorched leaves turn brown or, in some cases, turn black from the edges and between the major veins. If severe, the leaf may drop. Leaves may be affected over the entire tree or may be affected only on one side. White pines are also prone to this condition due to the delicacy of the needles.

Though scorch can be due solely to the weather, the condition of the roots of plants can make them much more susceptible to this condition. Shallow soils such as those over hardpan or rock lead to a limited root system that may not be able to absorb all the water needed. Trees may be more sensitive to scorch this year because of the heavy rains some areas received in June. Though soils were recharged, in many cases so much rain was received that oxygen was driven from the soil resulting in root damage. That root damage is now making it more difficult for trees to provide all the water needed for the leaves. Also, root damage due to disease, insects, poor drainage or construction can cause poor water uptake.

To help alleviate damage due to dry soils or limited root systems, water once per week for recently transplanted trees of every two weeks for large trees if there is no rainfall. Mulching small trees or shrubs will help conserve moisture. (Ward Upham)

The weather this summer has resulted in many peonies catching the "measles." This is a disease, also known as red spot, that causes distinct, reddish-purple spots on the upper leaf surfaces. These spots often coalesce and become large, reddish purple blotches on the upper leaf surfaces but are a light brown color when viewed from the underside of the leaves. The spots on stems will merge and form streaks that are reddish brown.

Sanitation is the best control for this disease. Remove all diseased tissue, including stems, at the end of the growing season. Mulch that contains plant debris should also be discarded and then replaced with fresh mulch. Reducing the source of the inoculum will reduce the chances of another severe outbreak next year. (Ward Upham)

These large (1-1/3- to 1-5/8-inch long) wasps fly slowly above the ground. Cicada killers have a black body with yellow marks across the thorax and abdomen. Wings are reddish-orange. Although these wasps are huge, they usually ignore people. Males may act aggressively if they are threatened, but are unable to sting. Females can sting, but are so passive that they rarely do. Even if they do sting, the pain is less than that of smaller wasps such as the yellow jacket or paper wasp and is similar to the sting of a sweat bee.

The cicada killer is a solitary wasp rather than a social wasp like the yellow jacket. The female nests in burrows in the ground. These burrows are quarter-size in diameter and can go 6 inches straight down and another 6 inches horizontally. Adults normally live 60 to 75 days from mid-July to mid-September and feed on flower nectar and sap. The adult female seeks cicadas on the trunks and lower limbs of trees. She stings her prey, flips it over, straddles it and carries it to her burrow. If she has a tree to climb, she will fly with it. If not, she will drag it. She will lay one egg per cicada if the egg is left unfertilized.  Unfertilized eggs develop into males only.  Fertilized eggs develop into females and are given at least two cicadas.  Cicadas are then stuffed into the female’s burrow. Each burrow normally has three to four cells with one to two cicadas in each. However, it is possible for one burrow to have 10 to 20 cells. Eggs hatch in two to three days, and larvae begin feeding on paralyzed cicadas.

Feeding continues for four to 10 days until only the outer shell of the cicada remains. The larva overwinters inside a silken case. Pupation occurs in the spring. There is one generation per year.

Cicada killers are not dangerous, but they can be a nuisance. If you believe control is necessary, treat the burrows after dark to ensure the female wasps are in their nests. The males normally roost on plants near burrow sites. They can be captured with an insect net or knocked out of the air with a tennis racket during the day. Carbaryl (Sevin) or permethrin may be used for control. (Ward Upham)

Adults of this insect are sometimes called "Cow-Killers" because of their powerful sting. These large (about 1-inch long), fuzzy red ants are not ants at all, but rather wasps. Velvet ant females are wingless (and resemble ants), while the males have blue-black wings and are usually found flying low above the ground in sandy areas. The female runs around searching for bumble bee nests in which to lay eggs. She will drop one egg beside each brood chamber. The young larvae will invade the brood chamber and feed on bee larvae. As mentioned earlier, velvet ants have very powerful stings. The best control is to avoid these colorful and conspicuous insects. (Ward Upham)

We have received a number of calls on grasshoppers recently. Permethrin (numerous trade names) is a good choice for vegetable crops because it is labeled for a wide variety of vegetables. However, keep in mind that hoppers can reinfest an area relatively quickly. Many times gardeners have not had an insecticide failure, but a reinfestation. Carbaryl (Sevin) can also be used for grasshopper control but can lead to mite outbreaks as it is very toxic to mite predators.

We often have gardeners who are interested in organic controls. Nosema locustae, a protozoan, is the active ingredient in a number of products including Semaspore, NOLO Bait, HopperStopper and Grasshopper Attack. These products are selective and will affect only grasshoppers. This is a trait many gardeners find attractive. However, Nosema locustae products may not be as effective in garden situations as they would be under large-scale rangeland conditions due to potential reinfestations from outside the treated area. Also, these products have other potential disadvantages:
- They are most effective against nymphal rather than adult grasshoppers. Also some grasshopper species are less susceptible than others.
- Kill can take 3 to 6 weeks after ingestion.
- These baits are perishable and should be kept refrigerated until use. Pay attention to the expiration date.

As mentioned above, reinfestations of uninfected grasshoppers can occur. These products are not effective against adults. Try to treat the nesting area when hoppers are small and populations are concentrated. Nosema locustae products are allowed in certified organic crop production.

Poultry including turkeys, guinea hens and chickens have also been used to help control grasshoppers.

Regardless of method used, the trick is to treat early before the population has matured. Young nymphal stages are much easier to control than adults and are also much less mobile. (Ward Upham)

Hot, dry weather often means spider mites on tomatoes.  Look for stippling on the upper surface of the leaves as well as some fine webbing on the underside of the leaves.  These tiny arthropods (they are not true insects) are often difficult to see due to their size and their habit of feeding on the underside of leaves.  If mites are suspected, hold a sheet of white paper beneath a leaf and tap the leaf. Mites will be dislodged and can be seen as tiny specks on the paper that move about.

Spider mite control can be challenging.  A strong jet of water can be used to remove the mites but may not be as easy as it sounds.  A high-pressure directed spray is needed to dislodge the mites.  Since spider mites feed on the underside of the leaves, the spray is most effective if it comes from below.  This can be difficult to accomplish with a thumb over the end of the hose.  The only commercial product I have been able to find that is made for this purpose is the Mite-Y-Fine Sprayer from miteyfine.com. 

Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps (Safers, for example) can also be helpful.  Spray early in the morning when temperatures are cooler and plants have rehydrated.  Resprays will likely be needed.  (Ward Upham)

If you have squash or related plants that suddenly wilt and die, you may have squash vine borer. This insect will bore into the stems of squash, zucchini, pumpkins and gourds. Hubbard squash are a favorite, and butternuts are less likely to be attacked than other squash. Cucumbers and melons are usually not a target, although both can be affected by a disease that causes similar symptoms, known as bacterial wilt.

The adult of this insect is a clear-winged moth that resembles a wasp. The forewings are a dark metallic green but the rear wings are clear. The abdomen is orange with black spots. The larva is cream-colored and rather wrinkled. Adults emerge in the spring and lay eggs on or near susceptible plants. Larva bore into the plant and feed for about a month as they move toward the base. Mature larva will exit the plant, burrow into the soil and pupate where they remain until the next year. Each plant can have numerous borers. If you suspect squash vine borer, split the stem of a collapsed plant near where it enters the ground. Infested plants will be hollowed out and mushy and may contain borers. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do at this late stage.  Control measures should center on prevention.

Suggested preventative controls would include crushing the dull red eggs before they hatch, excavating larvae from stems before they cause much damage or using insecticide applications.   Applications should begin when the vines begin to run (too late for that) and reapplied every 7 to 10 days for three to five weeks. Direct the spray at the crown of the plant and the base of runners. Chemicals used for borer control in gardens are permethrin (Bug-No-More Yard & Garden Insect Spray; Eight Vegetable, Fruit & Flower Concentrate; Lawn, Garden, Pet and Livestock Insect Control; Lawn & Garden Insect Killer), bifenthrin (Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II, Bug-B-Gon Max Garden Insect Killer) or carbaryl (Sevin), applied as sprays or dusts. Continue on a 7 to 10 day reapplication schedule for 3 to 5 weeks. If plants wilt, look for the presence of holes and ooze. However, in extreme heat, these plants will wilt in the afternoon even if undamaged by this insect. (Ward Upham)

Tomatoes often have problems with cracking caused by pressure inside the fruit that is more than the skin can handle. Cracks are usually on the upper part of the fruit and can be concentric (in concentric circles around the stem) or radial (radiating from the stem). We don’t know everything about cracking but here is what we do know.         

Tomatoes have a root system that is very dense and fibrous and is quite efficient in picking up water. Unfortunately, the root system can become unbalanced with the top of the plant. Early in the season it may be small in relation to the top growth resulting in blossom-end rot during hot dry weather. Later it may be so efficient that it provides too much water when we get rain or irrigate heavily after a dry spell. This quick influx of water can cause the tomato fruit to crack.  Therefore, even, consistent watering can help with cracking. Mulching will also help because it moderates moisture levels in the soil. However, you can do everything right and still have problems with cracking in some years.

We have evaluated varieties for cracking during our tomato trials at K-State. It takes several years worth of data to get a good feel for crack-resistant varieties but we have found some real differences. Some varieties crack under about any condition and others are much more resistant.  The difference seems to be pliability of skin rather than thickness — the more pliable the skin the more resistance to cracking.

The old variety Jet Star has been the most crack resistant of any we have tested including the newer types. Unfortunately, Jet Star is an indeterminate variety that puts out rampant growth.  Newer varieties with more controlled growth are often more attractive to gardeners. Mountain Spring, Mountain Pride, Mountain Fresh, Floralina and Sun Leaper are smaller-vined types that have shown good resistance to cracking. (Ward Upham)

Telling when a melon is ready to be harvested can be a challenge, or it may be quite easy. It all depends on the type of melon. Let’s start with the easy one. Muskmelons are one of those crops that tell you when they are ready to be picked. This can help you not only harvest melons at the correct time but also choose good melons when shopping. As a melon ripens, a layer of cells around the stem softens so the melon detaches easily from the vine. This is called “slipping” and will leave a dish-shaped scar at the point of stem attachment. When harvesting melons, put a little pressure where the vine attaches to the fruit. If ripe, it will release or “slip.”

When choosing a melon from those that have already been harvested, look for a clean, dish-shaped scar. Also, ripe melons have a pleasant, musky aroma if the melons are at room temperature (not refrigerated).           

Watermelons can be more difficult and growers often use several techniques to tell when to harvest.

1. Look for the tendril that attaches at the same point as the melon to dry and turn brown. On some varieties this will need to be completely dried before the watermelon is ripe. On others it will only need to be in the process of turning brown.

2. The surface of a ripening melon develops a surface roughness (sometimes called “sugar bumps”) near the base of the fruit.

3. Ripe watermelons normally develop a yellow color on the “ground spot” when ripe. This is the area of the melon that contacts the ground.

Honeydew melons are the most difficult to tell when they are ripe because they do not “slip” like muskmelons. Actually, there is one variety that does slip called Earlidew, but it is the exception to the rule. Ripe honeydew melons become soft on the flower end of the fruit. The “flower end” is the end opposite where the stem attaches. Also, honeydews should change to a light or yellowish color when ripe, but this varies with variety. (Ward Upham)

When temperatures exceed 90 degrees F, fruit plants lose water quickly. When this happens, moisture is withdrawn from the fruit to supply the tree. Stress from high temperatures, along with a moisture deficit in the root environment, may cause fruit to drop or fail to increase in size.

The stress may also reduce the development of fruit buds for next year's fruit crop. If you have fruit plants such as trees, vines, canes, and such, check soil moisture at the roots. Insert a spade or shovel or a pointed metal or wood probe -- a long screwdriver works well for this. Shove these into the soil about 8 to 12 inches. If the soil is hard, dry, and difficult to penetrate, the moisture level is very low, and plants should be irrigated to prevent drooping and promote fruit enlargement.  Water can be added to the soil using sprinklers, soaker hose, drip irrigation, or even a small trickle of water running from the hose for a few hours. The amount of time you irrigate should depend upon the size of plants and the volume of water you are applying. Add enough moisture so you can easily penetrate the soil in the root area of the plant with a metal rod, wooden dowel or other probe. When hot, dry weather continues, continue to check soil moisture at least once a week.

Strawberries have a shallow root system and may need to be watered more often – maybe twice a week during extreme weather. Also, newly planted fruit trees sited on sandy soils may also need water twice a week. (Ward Upham)

Heavy fruit loads this season may cause limbs to break if they are not given extra support. As fruits increase in size, the additional weight on individual branches may be substantial. One-inch thick boards can be used to prop up limbs.

Here's how. Cut a "V" on the top edge of the board on which the limb will rest so that it doesn't slip off. Long limbs that are heavily loaded with fruit may need a prop in the center and another to support the outer part of the limb. A plastic belt-like material that is about 2 inches wide may also be used. This can be tied to a heavily loaded limb, then to a large diameter limb above for support. Where a large limb is used for support, it is good to have it supporting limbs on opposite sides so the weight is balanced. Another solution is to wrap a tape or belt material around the tree in a spiral to prevent limbs from bending until they break. Heavy twine may be used, but it should be removed when the fruit is picked or soon after so it does not cut into the bark on the limb.

Check trees regularly, up to two times a week during the last month the fruit are maturing. You will find additional limbs that need support. Tending to the heavily loaded tree limbs will reduce the number of broken limbs and help keep a balance of the fruiting wood in your tree.  Next year, prune long, weak branches back to a side branch to help prevent this problem. (Ward Upham)

Blackberry and raspberry fruit will often develop white or tan drupelets on the berry. Though we are not completely sure of the cause, two commonly given reasons are stinkbug damage and sunscald.  Damage has been attributed to stinkbugs if the pattern of off color (not white) drupelets is random. Stinkbug damage is caused by the insect feeding on the blackberry receptacle and injuring drupelets on either side. Sunscald damage will be on the side of the fruit exposed to the sun and has several drupelets in a small area being affected.

Neither condition affects the eating quality of the fruit unless the stink bug releases the “stink” with which it is associated rendering the fruit inedible. By the time damage is seen, it is too late for control. (Ward Upham)

Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care.

Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to  punch a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once, and you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water.

A perforated soaker hose is a great way to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot  diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out.

Regardless of method used, soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. (Ward Upham)

No, not the kind of screens with which our lives are consumed! I’ve had a lot of requests lately for information about columnar (fastigate) trees. My first question is always “Why?” I find that columnar trees impart a very formal feel to a landscape design. Do they fit? What is their purpose? Most often the answer is that the person wants to screen a neighbor or a particular view or perhaps they just need something narrow to fit in a particular spot. My next question relates to the type of plant desired: evergreen or deciduous. An evergreen plant will block the view year-round and provide some winter interest, but are generally more slow-growing. A deciduous tree will most likely grow faster than an evergreen tree, but in the winter the leaves will drop and you’ll have a partial screen. You’ll need to weigh the pros and cons for your situation as you chose plants for these purposes.

It’s important to be aware of the mature size of the plant as well. Sure, they look so small and skinny when you plant them, but when they start to grow into each other and you can’t mow around them anymore it becomes a problem. Be aware of how much space you have for them to grow (wide) and how tall you need them to be in order to solve the privacy or view problem.

So, let’s get into some plant recommendations, starting with evergreen. Assuming that you want these plants to get to at least 15 to 30 feet tall, you can consider a Chinese juniper such as Juniperus chinensis ‘Hetzii Columnaris’ or a white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Fastigiata’). A tough-as-nails option that is used quite frequently is a cultivar of Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) called ‘Taylor’ which is a release from the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum and was found in a pasture near Taylor, NE. Some winter browning has been reported in exceptionally cold years, but the plants recover quickly.        

There are quite a few more options in the deciduous category and most can get quite tall. Let’s start with the shortest of the bunch, which is a ginkgo with outstanding bright yellow fall color: Gold Spire ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba ‘Blagon’) that grows 14 to 16 feet tall and 5 to 6 feet wide. European Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus  ‘Franz Fontaine’) is a popular option with clean, bright green foliage growing 30 feet tall by 10 feet wide. Mature tuliptrees (Liriodendron tulipifera) will really make heads turn when they sport large, tulip-shaped flowers in the spring. The columnar cultivar ‘Fastigiatum’ grows 50 to 60 feet tall and 20 feet wide.  

I would be remiss not to mention a cultivar plucked right out of the Great Plains in Kansas. Prairie Sentinel® Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis ‘JFS-KSU1’) stuck it’s tall canopy out of the rural prairie and just called out for propagation. It can grow up to 45 feet tall and 12 feet wide. It’s also just as tough-as-nails as Eastern redcedar. 

How about a Zelkova? These upright trees have a vase-shaped architecture (they are quite narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, a little like an upside down pyramid) they make great canopies over roads. The columnar version of this species is Zelkova serrata ‘Musashino’ and grows 45 feet tall and 15 feet wide.          

Another relatively columnar tree not seen nearly enough is Shawnee Brave® Baldcypress (Taxodium distichum ‘Mickelson’). Baldcypress can be a confusing tree to folks who aren’t “in the know.” It looks like an evergreen, and in fact it is a conifer, but it’s a deciduous conifer. It’s feathery sage-green leaves turn pumpkin-brown in the fall and drop to the ground. This species can get huge, both tall and wide, but Shawnee Brave® grows to a mere 55 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Since this species tolerates wet and/or dry areas, it might just fit the tough spot you’re looking to fill.

Now to the oaks.  Columnar English Oak (Quercus robur ‘Fastigiata’) started the trend by growing 50 to 60 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide. This is an example of a tree that tends to hold onto its leaves well into the winter so it can provide a partial screen in the winter. Some plants are susceptible to mildew, thus numerous hybrids have been developed in order to improve on the growth habits of columnar English oak. One of these is Crimson Spire™ Oak (Quercus robur x Quercus alba ‘Crimschmidt’), which is a beautiful deciduous street tree with reddish-purple fall color that grows 45 feet tall and 15 feet wide. A smaller relative is the Kindred Spirit™ Oak (Quercus robur x bicolor ‘Nadler’), which matures at about 30 feet tall and 6 feet wide.

One last plant note: I know you all want to plant poplar.  Please, don’t. Here’s why: poplars (in general) are fast growing but that comes with weak, brittle wood, disease-prone growth, short life span, roots that clog drain tiles, sewers and water channels. Horticulturalists consider most species of poplar a pest (don’t tell the foresters…) when used as ornamentals. It has few redeeming qualities in a home landscape and will only serve to annoy and frustrate you over its short lifespan. There are so many better choices!

This is not an all-inclusive list and, as with my last article, these plants may be more difficult to find than your average tree. They’re not quite specimen plants, but they’re not full, wide shade trees either (most commonly planted). However, they are available. Be patient and have your local landscape contractor or nursery do some sourcing for you. It will be worth it to have a quality, long-lasting, living screen.  (Cheryl Boyer)

These beetles are notorious for quickly stripping vegetables (especially tomatoes) and ornamentals of their foliage. There are several species of blister beetles which vary in size (often between 0.5-0.75 inch long) and color (such as black, gray or brown-striped), but most are recognized by their elongated, narrow, cylindrical, soft bodies with middle body part (thorax) narrower than the head or wingcovers.

Some home gardeners like to use hand picking as a nonchemical method for controlling these large insects. However, wear gloves and use caution because these beetles contain a substance called cantharidin. This chemical is an irritant capable of blistering internal and external body tissues exposed to the chemical. On tender human skin, body fluids of adult blister beetles may cause large, erect, watery blisters.

Chemical control of blister beetles is also possible. Cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) and gamma- or lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Beetle Killer, Bonide Caterpillar Killer) can be used for control. Cyfluthrin has a 0 day waiting period and lambda-cyhalothrin has a 5-day waiting period on tomatoes. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Cheryl Boyer, Extension Specialist