Video of the Week:
Will Fall Mums Last Through the Winter?
Turfgrass:
Apply Late-Season Nitrogen Application in November
November is the time to give cool-season lawns the last nitrogen application of the season. Why November? Because while top growth slows in response to cool temperatures, grass plants are still making food (carbohydrates) by photosynthesis. A November nitrogen application helps boost the photosynthesis rate. Carbohydrates that are not used in growth are stored in the crown and other storage tissues in the plant. These carbohydrate reserves help the turfgrass green up earlier in the spring and sustain growth into May without the need for early-spring (March or April) nitrogen. Those early-spring nitrogen applications are less desirable because they can lead to excessive shoot growth and reduced root growth. Other benefits of November-applied nitrogen for cool-season grasses include improved winter hardiness, root growth and shoot density.
How much should you apply? One to 1 to 1 ½ pounds actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn area is sufficient. In order for this application to be effective, the nitrogen must be readily available to the plant, because the growing season is nearly over. Therefore, for a November application, use a soluble (quickly-available) nitrogen carrier such as urea or ammonium sulfate. Many turfgrass fertilizers sold in garden centers and other retail outlets also contain soluble nitrogen. Avoid products that contain water-insoluble nitrogen (slow-release) for this application. As always, sweep up any fertilizer that gets on driveways, sidewalks, or streets and reapply it to the lawn. (Ward Upham)
How much should you apply? One to 1 to 1 ½ pounds actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn area is sufficient. In order for this application to be effective, the nitrogen must be readily available to the plant, because the growing season is nearly over. Therefore, for a November application, use a soluble (quickly-available) nitrogen carrier such as urea or ammonium sulfate. Many turfgrass fertilizers sold in garden centers and other retail outlets also contain soluble nitrogen. Avoid products that contain water-insoluble nitrogen (slow-release) for this application. As always, sweep up any fertilizer that gets on driveways, sidewalks, or streets and reapply it to the lawn. (Ward Upham)
Tucking your Lawnmower in for the Winter
If you are done mowing for the year, be sure to service your mower before putting it away. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals, which usually corrode during the season. A wire-bristle brush is a good tool for doing this. The battery can then be removed or connected to a battery monitor that will keep it charged over winter. If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected location for the winter (a cool basement works best).
Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring. Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:
* Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
* Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
* Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
* If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
* Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
* Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
* Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.
Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)
Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring. Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:
* Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
* Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
* Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
* If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
* Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
* Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
* Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.
Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)
Flowers:
There is Still Time to Plant Spring-Flowering Bulbs
Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs (especially daffodils) in October to give them enough time to root before winter. But it is certainly not too late to plant them now. As long as the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs should continue root development. You can find the previous week’s soil temperature readings for areas across the state from our Weather Data Library at http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/wdl/Text%20files/text/REPORT.TXT
Although many of the best bulbs have probably already been purchased, garden centers may still have a good selection. Be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout. While many bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, none can tolerate poorly drained soil. Prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix into the soil.
Adequate fertility is essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been fertilized regularly in the past may have excess levels of phosphorus. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the uptake of other essential micronutrients. In such cases, it would be better to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 2/3 pound per 100 square feet. Organic sources of fertilizers low in phosphorus include blood meal (12-0-0) applied at 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, cottonseed meal (6-0.4-1.5) applied at the rate of 10 pounds per 100 square feet and soybean meal (7-2-1) applied at the rate of 8 pounds per 100 square feet.
In the absence of a soil test, or if phosphorus is needed, add a low analysis, balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of bed. Mix all amendments thoroughly with the soil before planting the bulbs.
The size and species of the bulb determines how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the bulb should be about 2 to 3 times the size of the bulb, but check the planting instructions specific to each particular flower. (Ward Upham)
Although many of the best bulbs have probably already been purchased, garden centers may still have a good selection. Be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout. While many bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, none can tolerate poorly drained soil. Prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix into the soil.
Adequate fertility is essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been fertilized regularly in the past may have excess levels of phosphorus. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the uptake of other essential micronutrients. In such cases, it would be better to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 2/3 pound per 100 square feet. Organic sources of fertilizers low in phosphorus include blood meal (12-0-0) applied at 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, cottonseed meal (6-0.4-1.5) applied at the rate of 10 pounds per 100 square feet and soybean meal (7-2-1) applied at the rate of 8 pounds per 100 square feet.
In the absence of a soil test, or if phosphorus is needed, add a low analysis, balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of bed. Mix all amendments thoroughly with the soil before planting the bulbs.
The size and species of the bulb determines how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the bulb should be about 2 to 3 times the size of the bulb, but check the planting instructions specific to each particular flower. (Ward Upham)
Perennial Garden Clean-up
Fall is traditionally a time for cleaning up gardens. Normally, we recommend clear-cutting dead stems to help control insect and disease problems. With herbaceous perennials that have been pest free, you might want to consider leaving some to provide structure, form, and color to the winter garden. For example, ornamental grasses can be attractive even during the winter months. But those near structures should be cut to the ground because they can be a fire hazard. Perennials with evergreen or semi-evergreen foliage can provide color. Of course, some perennials are naturally messy after dormancy and should be cut back in the fall.
Foliage can be left for other reasons. For example, foliage left on marginally hardy plants such as tender ferns helps ensure overwintering of plant crowns. Also, seed heads on some perennial plants can provide seed for birds. (Ward Upham)
Foliage can be left for other reasons. For example, foliage left on marginally hardy plants such as tender ferns helps ensure overwintering of plant crowns. Also, seed heads on some perennial plants can provide seed for birds. (Ward Upham)
Pests:
Millipede Invasion
Millipedes, or "thousand-legged worms," are an arthropod relative of insects. They can be distinguished from centipedes by the number of legs per body segment. Millipedes have four legs per segment, while centipedes have only two. Also, the millipedes’ legs are quite short and often are not seen if viewing the millipede from above. Though usually found in damp locations outside, they can become a problem inside the house and cause homeowners a great deal of concern.
Household invasions are often sudden and sporadic and may be in response to rain. Millipedes feed primarily on decaying organic material, rarely on living tissue. They do not bite people or damage household furnishings directly, but they will leave a mess and give off an odor if crushed.
Millipedes are worm-like and most often brownish-black in color. The legs ripple as they move. Millipedes often curl up into a "C" shape like a watch spring if touched. Remember you may not see the legs unless viewing the millipede from the side. They defend themselves by releasing a disagreeable odor when disturbed.
Millipedes require high moisture to survive and often die in a day or two after entering a house. Dead millipede bodies can then be vacuumed up and disposed of. Drying out moist areas inside will also help with control. Sealing and caulking around openings in the foundation will help keep populations low. If this is not enough, spraying cyfluthrin (Home Pest Control Indoor & Outdoor Insect Killer), proxopur (Baygon), or resmethrin in a three-foot band around the outside of the house will take care of them before they get inside. (Ward Upham)
Household invasions are often sudden and sporadic and may be in response to rain. Millipedes feed primarily on decaying organic material, rarely on living tissue. They do not bite people or damage household furnishings directly, but they will leave a mess and give off an odor if crushed.
Millipedes are worm-like and most often brownish-black in color. The legs ripple as they move. Millipedes often curl up into a "C" shape like a watch spring if touched. Remember you may not see the legs unless viewing the millipede from the side. They defend themselves by releasing a disagreeable odor when disturbed.
Millipedes require high moisture to survive and often die in a day or two after entering a house. Dead millipede bodies can then be vacuumed up and disposed of. Drying out moist areas inside will also help with control. Sealing and caulking around openings in the foundation will help keep populations low. If this is not enough, spraying cyfluthrin (Home Pest Control Indoor & Outdoor Insect Killer), proxopur (Baygon), or resmethrin in a three-foot band around the outside of the house will take care of them before they get inside. (Ward Upham)
Hackberry Psyllids Flying Around Homes
The hackberry psyllid causes “bumps” to form on the underside of hackberry leaves early in the season. The bumps are actually caused by nymphs that hatch from eggs laid by females as leaves start to unfurl in the spring. This abnormal growth is caused by the feeding of the nymphs. This condition is extremely common to the point it can almost be used as an identifying characteristic for hackberry. Fortunately, this does not harm the hackberry.
The hackberry psyllid overwinters in the adult stage. These insects are tiny and resemble miniature cicadas. They are dark reddish-brown with mottled wings. Adults are tiny enough that they can crawl through the openings in most screens and therefore often find shelter during the winter inside houses. In the spring, the adults become active about the time the leaf buds of hackberry trees open. The best way to control hackberry psyllids found inside the home is the same as for boxelder bugs: a vacuum cleaner.
Several steps can be taken during the fall just before frost to reduce entry. Turning off outdoor night-lights and reducing the amount of light shining through night windows helps. Consider using fine mesh (18 mesh) screens on windows that are kept open. Ordinary screens are 12 mesh to the inch. Caulk or plug up cracks and crevices. Keep windows and doors closed when psyllids are active. For temporary reduction, spray exterior surfaces such as window screens, shutters and sides of buildings where psyllids are resting. Look for residual insect sprays labeled to use on outdoor surfaces. Examples of ingredients with residual action include cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray), bifenthrin (Talstar, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II), permethrin (numerous trade names), Baygon and tralomethrin. (Ward Upham)
The hackberry psyllid overwinters in the adult stage. These insects are tiny and resemble miniature cicadas. They are dark reddish-brown with mottled wings. Adults are tiny enough that they can crawl through the openings in most screens and therefore often find shelter during the winter inside houses. In the spring, the adults become active about the time the leaf buds of hackberry trees open. The best way to control hackberry psyllids found inside the home is the same as for boxelder bugs: a vacuum cleaner.
Several steps can be taken during the fall just before frost to reduce entry. Turning off outdoor night-lights and reducing the amount of light shining through night windows helps. Consider using fine mesh (18 mesh) screens on windows that are kept open. Ordinary screens are 12 mesh to the inch. Caulk or plug up cracks and crevices. Keep windows and doors closed when psyllids are active. For temporary reduction, spray exterior surfaces such as window screens, shutters and sides of buildings where psyllids are resting. Look for residual insect sprays labeled to use on outdoor surfaces. Examples of ingredients with residual action include cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray), bifenthrin (Talstar, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II), permethrin (numerous trade names), Baygon and tralomethrin. (Ward Upham)
Miscellaneous:
Preserving Garden Tools
Hoes, shovels and other common garden tools often have wooden handles that can deteriorate over time. Storing tools in a protected location can slow that process, but normal use will still expose the tools to the elements. The end of the season is a good time to clean up and protect the handles so they will last for many years. Weathering can raise the grain of wood, resulting in splinters. A light sanding can smooth the handle. Follow that with a light application of wood preservative, linseed oil or polyurethane to protect the wood. Wipe off any excess after a few minutes as oil-based products can attract dirt. Cleaning any dirt off metal parts and coating with a light application of oil can prevent rust. Good tools are expensive. A few minutes of care after the season is over can help preserve them for many years to come. (Ward Upham)
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
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