Before we get into leaf loss, we should also touch on scorch. The hot, drying winds recently have resulted in some tree suffering scorch where the outer edge of the leaf and/or the area between veins turning brown.  This is caused by the tree not being able to take up enough water to replace that lost through transpiration.  This is especially common on maples. Though the tree does not look good, the effect on health is minimal as long as the tree is watered as needed.
    
There are three situations we may run into regarding tree leaf loss this summer. The tree may produce yellow leaves scattered throughout the canopy of the tree, all the leaves on a tree may turn yellow and drop or the leaves may turn brown but stick to the branches. 
    
If falling leaves are well distributed throughout the tree and result in a general thinning of the leaves, the problem is not serious. Trees will often set more leaves in the spring than they can support during the summer. Heat and drought stress will cause the tree to lose leaves that it cannot support with the available soil moisture. Leaves that drop are most often yellow with no discernible disease spots. However, at times, we can have green leaves drop that appear perfectly healthy. As long as the leaf drop results in a gradual thinning of the leaves, the tree should be fine if it is kept watered during dry periods. 
    
In some cases we may see virtually all of the leaves drop. Certain trees such as hackberry can drop all of the leaves and enter summer dormancy. We are a bit early for this to occur but may happen later in the summer if we have a hot, dry summer. Trees that are summer dormant should have supple twigs and healthy buds. Usually, the effect on the health of the tree is very minor and the tree leafs out normally next spring. As long as the tree has enough stored energy reserves to make it through to next spring, it will survive. The twigs and buds tell the story. If the buds die and the twigs become brittle, at least that part of the tree is dead. 
    
The last case involves trees that have leaves that die and remain attached to the tree. This can happen seemingly overnight. In such cases, the tree couldn’t keep up with moisture demands and died quickly. This year, the cause may be due to the cold snap last December 18 where most locations had temperatures well below zero.  Damage to underlying tissues is the root cause of this problem.  As in the last case, the twigs and buds are the most important clue as to the health of the tree. As long as the buds are alive and the twigs are supple, do not remove the tree, it still has life. 
    
If you limited ability to water and need to prioritize, trees should come first because they are the most difficult and expensive to replace. They also take the most time to reach an acceptable size.  We have a couple of publications that give useful watering tips for trees.  See the two articles near the bottom of the page at: http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/publications/trees-shrubs-and-woody-vines.html   (Ward Upham)

​A number of tiny non-stinging wasps, mites and flies cause abnormal growths to develop on the leaves, twigs or branches of oak trees. These galls can include growths that are round, spiny, flattened, elongated or star-shaped. There are hundreds of different types of galls, each of which is caused by a specific insect. Galls form in response to a chemical that the insect injects into the plant tissue. Mature females lay eggs that hatch into legless grubs. Galls form around them. Larvae feed, develop, and pupate inside these galls. Adults may emerge either the same season or may overwinter inside the gall depending on the life history of that specific insect.
       
Generally, these gall insects do not cause significant damage to their hosts, though some of the leaf galls can cause enough deformity to make a tree unsightly. Also, severe infestations of twig galls can cause twig dieback or, rarely, tree death. However, just because a twig is covered with galls does not mean it is dead. I have seen twigs that looked like a solid mass of galls leaf out in the spring. Insecticide sprays applied when galls are noticed are ineffective because damage has already occurred. Also, larvae are unaffected because of the protection afforded by the gall.  Insecticide sprays can kill emerging adult wasps and flies, but long periods of emergence and short residuals of most contact insecticides make this impractical. Stem and twig galls can be pruned if deemed to be practical and necessary. In short, this is a problem that is best ignored unless pruning is done to improve the appearance of the tree. (Ward Upham)

​We had a report last week from the Wichita area that a number of ash trees have ash sawfly larvae feeding on the leaves.
       
These sawfly larvae are a light green color with a broad, whitish stripe on the top side. In the middle of the whitish stripe there appears to be a darker green stripe that is actually the digestive tract of the insect. Though sawfly larvae resemble caterpillars, they have at least six pairs of "stublike" prolegs behind the three pairs of true legs on their abdomen. Caterpillars never have more than five pairs of prolegs.
       
There are usually no detrimental effects to the health of the tree if nature is allowed to run its course. Even if all the leaves are eaten, it is early enough in the growing season for trees to put out a complete new set of leaves with enough time to make all the food reserves needed to survive the coming winter. However, if control is desired, a number of insecticides may be used for control including cyfluthrin (Bayer Lawn and Garden Multi-Insect Killer), malathion, esfenvalerate (Monterey Bug Buster II) and carbaryl (Sevin). An effective organic product is spinosad (Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew; Monterey Garden Insect Spray). Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are also effective because of the soft skin of sawfly larvae. (Ward Upham)

Recently Westar Energy began a program to treat trees in the path of utilities with Shortstop, a Tree Growth Regulator. Some of the objectives of the program are: 1) To slow re-growth after a tree has been pruned and thereby lengthen the interval in which that tree will need to be pruned again; 2) To reduce the amount of pruning waste when that tree does need to be pruned again; 3) To improve the overall health and appearance of the tree.

So, how does Shortstop help Westar Energy achieve these goals? The active ingredient in Shortstop, paclobutrazol, has widespread use in the greenhouse and ornamental production industries to produce more compact plants using fewer pruning, shearing, or pinching events. The compound works by inhibiting the production of a class of plant hormones called gibberellins. One of the primary roles of the gibberellins is cell elongation. Plants treated with paclobutrazol have a similar number of leaves and internodes, but the internode length is greatly reduced. The result is a more compact plant. Paclobutrazol also increase chlorophyll content yielding a ‘greener’ plant, and research has shown it may increase stress tolerance in trees by increasing fine root densities.

When utility arborists come through your neighborhood to prune branches away from the power lines, you may receive a door hanger indicating that the tree will soon be treated with a plant growth regulator. The product, Shortstop, is applied to the soil at the base of the tree. It is fairly immobile in the soil, so it will not travel and influence the growth of other plants. The result should be a darker green tree with a more compact habit and potentially improved drought tolerance. Due to the reduced growth rate, the time period before that tree will need to be pruned again is extended, and the amount of pruning debris is reduced when it finally is time to prune again.

While there are many benefits to treating street trees with Shortstop, you can say ‘No thank you,’ and your trees will not be treated. For more information visit the ReliabiliTree site (www.westarenergy.com/reliabilitree-program). (Jason Griffin)

​We are starting to see anthracnose on sycamore. Anthracnose is a fungal disease favored by cool, wet weather. Young leaves may wither and turn black. On older leaves, look for brown areas that follow the major veins of the leaves. In some cases, the petiole (leaf stem) is infected, which causes leaf drop. The leaf may look perfectly fine, so look for browned areas on the petiole.
 
In severe cases, the tree drops heavily infected leaves and may be completely defoliated. Healthy trees will leaf out again in a few weeks. Defoliation this early in the year does not affect overall tree health. Trees have plenty of time to produce new leaves and make the energy reserves needed to survive the winter.
 
Other types of trees that are affected by anthracnose include birch, elm, walnut, oak and especially ash. Anthracnose seldom causes significant damage to trees in Kansas, so chemical controls are usually unnecessary. Also, fungicides do not cure infected leaves. Applying fungicides now will not help. (Ward Upham) 

European pine sawfly, Neodiprion sertifer larvae were detected feeding on my “indicator pine” in Manhattan, KS (I was totally excited!) on April 17. Young caterpillar- looking larvae are 1/4 inch in length and olive-green in color with a black head. Mature larvae are >1.0 inch long with green stripes. The larvae are gregarious or feed in groups on needles of a variety of pines, especially Scotch, red, and mugo pine.

When disturbed, each individual larva will arch their head and abdomen (last segment of an insect body) back, forming a “C-shape,” which is a defensive posture to ward-off predators. Eventually, larvae will strip the needles of mature foliage, leaving only the central core, which is white and then turns brown. In general, larvae complete feeding by the time needles emerge from the candelabra. Therefore, those needles are not damaged. There really is only a minor threat of branch or tree death resulting from sawfly larval feeding. However, the loss of second- and third- year needles will be noticeable in landscape trees; thus ruining their aesthetic appearance. In late spring, larvae drop to the ground and pupate in brown, leathery cocoons located at the base of trees. Adults, which are wasp-like, emerge in fall and lay eggs in needles prior to the onset of winter. There is one generation per year in Kansas.
 
Sawfly larvae look like caterpillars but they are not caterpillars (Order: Lepidoptera).  Sawflies are related to ants, bees, and wasps (Order: Hymenoptera). The primary way to distinguish a sawfly larva from a caterpillar is by the following: 1) sawfly larva have prolegs (fleshy abdominal legs) on every abdominal segment whereas caterpillars are missing prolegs on the abdomen and 2) caterpillar larva have hairs or crochets on their feet whereas sawfly larva do not have hairs or crochets on their feet.
 
Sawfly larvae are not caterpillars, therefore, the bacterial insecticide, Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki (sold as Dipel) will not directly kill sawfly larvae. Dealing with sawfly larvae involves hand-picking (you can wear gloves if you wish) or dislodging larvae from plants by means of a forceful water spray. If necessary, there are a number of insecticides that may be applied to suppress European pine sawfly populations including: acephate (Orthene), azadirachtin, carbaryl (Sevin), spinosad (Captain Jack’s DeadBug Brew and Conserve), and any pyrethroid insecticide (e.g., bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, and lambda-cyhalothrin). Be sure to read the insecticide label to make sure that sawflies are listed. For more information regarding European pine sawfly management contact your county or state extension specialist. (Raymond Cloyd)

If you are having problems with the needles on pines turning yellow, check for Dothistroma Needle Blight (Mycosphaerella pini) as it has been very common this spring. Scots pine is considered resistant.

This fungal disease causes the tips of needles to turn yellow, and yellow to tan bands to form along the needle. The black fruiting bodies have erupted through the surface of the needle. Needle blight is most serious on Austrian and Ponderosa pines and also can affect Mugo pines.

Winter desiccation can cause these same needle-yellowing symptoms, including banding, but does not exhibit the black fruiting bodies.  This also is very common this year likely due to the extreme cold we had on December 18.
 
Though less common this spring, there can be other causes of yellowing needles. Brown spot (Scirrhia acicula) looks much like Dothistroma but affects primarily Scots pine. Ponderosa pine also is susceptible to brown spot, but Austrian pine is resistant.
 
Tip blight, another disease, can affect Austrian, Ponderosa, Scots, and Mugo pines, but Austrians are most susceptible. This disease normally kills tips of branches when the needles are about half grown in the spring. This disease results in the death of the entire needle, not just the tips. If the tips of branches are dead and the needles on these branches are shorter than normal, suspect this disease.
 
Some copper-containing fungicides can be used for control of Dothistroma needle blight. A single fungicide application in early June normally will protect foliage from infection. There is some risk in a single application because susceptible older needles are not protected in late May. Two fungicide applications in mid-May and mid- to late-June provide a more complete and dependable control.
 
Make sure all needles are thoroughly covered with the fungicide. It is a good idea to spray adjacent susceptible pines. It may take multiple years of application to bring the disease under control. Copper fungicides are suggested for control such as Junction, Kocide, Camelot, Bonide Liquid Copper Concentrate, and Monterey Liqui-Cop. Collection and removal of diseased needles on the ground around individual trees may reduce the severity of infection the following year. Nevertheless, sanitation probably will not eliminate the disease because diseased needles bearing fruiting structures of the fungus sometimes remain attached to the tree. Removal of dead needles is impractical in windbreak plantings.
 
If you are unsure which problem you have, now would be a good time to take a sample to your local K-State Research and Extension office so they can send it to the K-State Plant Pathology Lab for positive identification. (Ward Upham)

​Winter storms may cause serious tree damage.  Often you will have to decide whether a tree can be saved or not. Here is a checklist on care of a storm-damaged landscape.

1. Be careful: Slippery ice and chainsaws don’t mix.  Wait until all ice has melted before beginning work.  

Check for downed power lines or hanging branches. Don't venture under the tree until it is safe. If large limbs are hanging precariously, a certified arborist has the tools, training and knowledge to do the work safely.

2. Cleanup: Remove debris so you don't trip over it.

3. Decide whether it is feasible to save a tree. If the bark has been split so the cambium is exposed or the main trunk split, the tree probably will not survive and should be removed. If there are so many broken limbs that the tree’s form is destroyed, replacement is the best option.

Topping, where all the main branches are cut and there are only stubs left, is not a recommended pruning procedure. Though new branches will normally arise from the stubs, they are not as firmly attached as the original branches and more likely to break in subsequent storms. Also, the tree must use a lot of energy to develop new branches, leaving less to fight off diseases and insect attacks. Often, the topped tree's life is shortened.

4. Prune broken branches to the next larger branch or to the trunk. If cutting back to the trunk, do not cut flush with the trunk but rather at the collar area between the branch and the trunk. Cutting flush with the trunk leaves a much larger wound than cutting at the collar and takes longer to heal. Middle-aged or younger vigorous trees can have up to one-third of the crown removed and still make a surprisingly swift comeback.

5. Take large limbs off in stages. If you try to take off a large limb in one cut, it will often break before the cut is finished and strip bark from the tree. Instead, first make a cut about 15 inches from the trunk. Start from the bottom and cut one-third of the way up through the limb. Make the second cut from the top down but start 2 inches further away from the trunk than the first. The branch will break away as you make the second cut. The third cut, made at the collar area, removes the stub that is left.

Note: Pruning can be dangerous. Consider hiring a trained, certified arborist to do major work.  Also, a good arborist knows how to prune trees so that storm breakage is less likely to occur. Preventing damage is better than trying to fix it once it has happened. The Arbor Day Foundation maintains an excellent Web site that contains detailed information. The URL is: http://www.arborday.org/media/stormindex.cfm     (Ward Upham)

Our John C. Pair Horticultural Center near Wichita established a National Elm Trial in 2007 with 18 cultivars. All of these are Dutch Elm Disease (DED) Resistant with 4 being true American elms. The cultivar ‘Jefferson’ would have been a fifth true American elm but proved to be the same cultivar as ‘Princeton’. The remainder are either hybrids or other elm species. The four true American elms are ‘Valley Forge’, ‘Princeton’, ‘New Harmony’ and ‘Lewis and Clark’ (Prairie Expedition). All have shown excellent tolerance to DED. Characteristics listed below are primarily from our study at the John C. Pair Horticultural Center but storm breakage is from the University of Minnesota. See http://www.extension.umn.edu/environment/agroforestry/elm-trees.html  for the Minnesota study.

‘Valley Forge’
Survival: 100%
Crown Shape: Vase
Lacebug damage to foliage: Minimal
European elm flea weevil damage: Minimal
Storm Breakage: Fair
Comments: Strong grower, broad spreading

‘Princeton’
Survival: 100%
Crown Shape: Vase
Lacebug damage to foliage: Minimal
European elm flea weevil damage: Minimal
Storm Breakage: Fair
Comments: Impressive grower, upright habit, attractive tree

‘New Harmony’
Survival: 100%
Crown Shape: Vase and round
Lacebug damage to foliage: Significant
European elm flea weevil damage: Minimal
Storm Breakage: Not in Minnesota study
Comments: Narrow, upright habit with strong, central axis

‘Lewis and Clark’ (Prairie Expedition)
Survival: 80%
Crown Shape: Broad oval
Lacebug damage to foliage: Minimal
European elm flea weevil damage: Minimal
Storm Breakage: Good
Comments: Strong grower with broad spreading habit, some wetwood.

Storm damage can be minimized by pruning when the tree is young. Maintain a central leader but prune out all lower branches as the tree grows and branches increase in diameter so that there is room to work under the tree. Also prune out branches attached with a narrow angle as these are most likely to give way in ice or wind storms. For photos and more information from our John C. Pair Horticultural Center, see
http://webdoc.agsci.colostate.edu/bspm/Kansas%20Elm%20Trial%20Nov%2012%202014.pdf 
(Ward Upham)

​Research from K-State’s John C. Pair Horticultural Center has quantified the effect of controlling grasses around newly planted trees. Jason Griffin, William Reid, and Dale Bremer conducted a study to investigate the inhibition of growth of transplanted, seedling trees when lawn grasses were allowed to grow up to the trunk. There were five treatments, including three with different species of grass:

    1. Bare soil maintained with herbicides.
    2. Area under tree mulched 3 inches deep.
    3. Tall fescue allowed to grow under tree.
    4. Bermudagrass allowed to grow under tree.
    5. Kentucky bluegrass allowed to grow under tree.

All treatments were applied to Eastern redbud seedlings as well as to pecan seedlings. All trees were fertilized according to recommendations and watered during the growing season with up to 1 inch of water if rainfall was deficient. At the end of two years, trees were measured and harvested. Data was taken on caliper (diameter) 6 inches above the ground, weight of aboveground portions of the tree, leaf area, and leaf weight. There were no differences in any measure between the mulched treatment and the bare soil treatment for either tree species. All measures showed significant growth increases if lawn grasses were controlled around the tree.

Results include the following:

1. Caliper: Caliper measures 6 inches above the soil surface were twice as large for plots without grass than for those with either fescue or bluegrass, but only 50% larger when compared to the bermudagrass plots.

2. Top growth weight: Redbuds showed a 300% weight advantage for plots with grasses controlled than those without. Pecans showed a significant 200% increase.

3. Leaf area and leaf weight: Leaf areas were 200% larger in plots without grass competition and leaf weight showed a 300% increase.

The obvious conclusion from this study is that grasses must be controlled under a newly transplanted tree to get the best possible growth. Though there were no differences in growth whether mulch was used or not, you may still wish to mulch for aesthetic reasons or to help control weed growth. How far from the trunk should the grasses be controlled? Try a minimum of 3 feet. (Ward Upham)

The dark, cold days of winter are a good time to dream and plan for the upcoming growing season. Have you always wanted to landscape your home but didn’t know where to start? We offer a number of publications available to help you accomplish your dream. This collection includes everything from general landscaping publications such as “Residential Landscape Design,” to specific works such as “Naturalistic Landscaping” and “Low-Maintenance Landscaping.” 

You can download printed publications for landscaping free of charge from http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/publications/landscaping.html. Information on plants recommended for Kansas can be found at http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/recommended-plants/index.html 

You may also request printed copies from your local K-State Research and Extension office. There may be a small charge for printed copies of larger publications. 

If you need to know how to contact your local extension office, go to http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/Map.aspx and mouse over your county. (Ward Upham)

If you are considering purchasing fruit trees this spring, there are certain factors that should be considered for some of our fruit tree species.  Spring in Kansas is often unsettled with apricot and peach tree flowers being very vulnerable to late frosts that can kill fruit buds. Of course, the tree itself will be fine but there will be no to little fruit for that year. Other species of trees can also be affected but apricots and peaches are by far the most sensitive.  Also, the closer a tree is to full bloom, the more sensitive it becomes to frost.

Apricots are more likely to have frost kill flowers than peaches because they bloom a bit earlier. Though there are late-blooming apricot varieties, the differences between full bloom on early and late-blooming varieties appears to be slight. Research at Virginia Tech in the 90's showed a maximum of a 4-day difference between early and late varieties. However, in some years that may be all that is needed. The trees in the study that were considered late blooming included Hungarian Rose, Tilton and Harlayne. Harglow was not included in the study but is also considered late-blooming. See https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html  for more info.

Peaches are next on the list for being likely to be caught by a late frost. With peaches, two characteristics become important when considering whether they will be damaged. Like apricots, bloom time is very important but fruit bud hardiness should also be considered. In this case, fruit bud hardiness refers to hardiness to late frosts rather than the ability to survive extreme low temperatures during the winter. Late bloomers included ‘China Pearl’, ‘Encore’, ‘Intrepid’, and ‘Risingstar.’ See http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf. The ‘Intrepid’ cultivar also has shown excellent cold hardiness when in flower. See http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357 

So, are there other considerations when looking at possible frost damage? Location can be very important. Planting on a hill which allows cold air to drain to lower elevations can help.  Also, a location in town will be more likely to have a warmer micro-climate than an exposed location. Some gardeners will add a heat source under a tree during cold nights if they are close to a building. Heat lamps and charcoal briquettes are sometimes used but safety should be the first consideration. (Ward Upham)

Even though pawpaw is native to eastern Kansas, many people in the state have never eaten one. Fruits resemble fat bananas and are generally up to 6 inches long and as much as 3 inches wide. The taste is unique and is difficult to describe but is often said to resemble bananas or pineapple and has a texture somewhat like custard. They are rarely grown commercially because they are difficult to ship and do not store well. Ripe fruit will only hold 2 to 3 days at room temperature and up to a week under refrigeration.

Pawpaw prefers a well-drained, moderately acid (pH 5.5 to 7.0), moist soil and high organic matter content. Organic mulch is also recommended. Irrigation will be helpful to necessary depending on what part of Kansas they are grown.

In the wild, the pawpaw is an understory tree and may do better with partial shade, especially during the first 2 to 3 years. Protection from high winds is also advisable due to the large leaves. The pawpaw is a small tree that may reach 20 feet high but is less broad. Trees require cross-pollination and so at least 2 and preferably 3 different varieties should be grown. These trees are pollinated by insects other than bees such as beetles and flies and must be planted close together. Trees should be no further than 30 feet apart in order to insure good pollination. 

The soil for planting should be prepared in advance of receiving the trees. Amend the soil with organic matter in the area where the trees will be planted. Do not amend just the soil from the planting hole especially if the soil is heavy and has high clay content. If you do, you have essentially made a pot that will hold water and may drown the tree. Rather add organic matter to the area in which the tree will be planted before digging the planting hole; at least a 10- by 10-foot square. You may want to treat the entire area where your trees will be planted. Add 2 inches of organic matter to the surface of the soil and then till in. 

The planting hole should be the same depth as the root system but 2 to 3 times as wide. Pawpaws have fleshy roots and are better planted in the spring (April) rather than fall unless container grown. Container-grown plants can be planted virtually anytime.

Keep newly planted trees well watered. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged. Keep the planting area completely free of weeds or any other type of vegetation within 3 feet of the trees. Mulching is recommended.

There has been a significant amount of work done on pawpaw by Kentucky State University. You can reach their pawpaw site at http://www.pawpaw.kysu.edu/. Information on growing pawpaws is available from Peterson Pawpaws at http://www.petersonpawpaws.com. Neil Peterson’s pawpaws are the result of over 25 years of research and have been widely tested. Though Neil no longer sells his varieties directly, he does list a number of nurseries that carry them.

The Kansas Forest Service (www.kansasforests.org) has seedling trees available for sale though I would recommend getting named varieties instead if you wish to plant only a few trees. The fruit from named varieties will be of a higher quality than that from a seedling tree.  Named variety pawpaws are available from Stark Brothers (www.starkbros.com) and one from Raintree Nursery (www.raintreenursery.com).

The University of Missouri has a couple of different pawpaw cultivar trials. You can find results from one of these trials at http://www.centerforagroforestry.org/pubs/pawpaws.pdf  (Ward Upham)

Severe winter weather is not only hard on people but can be a life and death struggle for birds. Though birds also require water and shelter, food is often the resource most lacking during cold weather. Many different bird food mixes are available because various species often prefer different grains. However, there is one seed that has more universal appeal than any other: black oil sunflower. If you are new to the bird-feeding game, make sure there is a high percentage of this seed in your mix. White proso millet is second in popularity and is the favorite of dark-eyed juncos and other sparrows as well as the red-winged blackbird. 

As you become more interested in bird feeding, you may want to use more than one feeder to attract specific species of birds. Following is a list of bird species with the grains they prefer.
    - Cardinal, evening grosbeak and most finch species – sunflower seeds, all types.
    - Rufous-sided towhee – white proso millet.
    - Dark-eyed junco – white and red proso millet, canary seed, fine cracked corn.
    - Many sparrow species – white and red proso millet.
    - Bluejay – peanut kernels and sunflower seeds of all types.
    - Chickadee and tufted titmouse – peanut kernels, oil (black) and black-striped sunflower seeds.
    - Red-breasted nuthatch – oil (black) and black-striped sunflower seeds.
    - Brown thrasher – hulled and black-striped sunflower seeds.
    - Red-winged blackbird – white and red proso millet plus German (golden) millet
    - Mourning dove – oil (black) sunflower seeds, white and red proso plus German (golden) millet.

Extended cold periods can also make water unavailable. A heated birdbath can be a tremendous draw for birds during times when all other water is frozen. Energy use is usually less than what most people expect IF the heater has a built-in thermostat. If you would like more information, Chuck Otte, Agriculture Extension Agent for Geary County has a series of backyard birding guides at http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Great Plains Growers Conference
January 12, 13 & 14, 2017
St. Joseph, MO
For more information, go to  http://www.greatplainsgrowersconference.org

​
​Horticulture 2016 Indexed
 
All of the articles published in Horticulture 2016 are now indexed according to subject. Indexing by subject is a very time consuming undertaking. One of our Johnson County Extension Master Gardeners, Carole Brandt, has completed this task for us the last nine years. Many thanks to Carole in making these past articles much easier to find. You can access the list at  http://tinyurl.com/jb68hbv . (Ward Upham)

 It can be difficult to find specific onion varieties in sets or transplants, so growing from seed may be a preferred option. Onions are one of the first plants to be seeded for transplanting because this crop takes a significant amount of time (6 to 8 weeks) to reach transplant size and because they can be set out relatively early (late March in much of eastern and central Kansas). Therefore, we want to start onions in mid- to late-January. Onion seed should be placed ½ to 3/4 inch apart in a pot or flat filled with a seed starting mix.
 
Place the container in a warm (75 to 80 F) location until young seedlings emerge. Move to a cooler location (60 to 65 F) when the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall. Make sure they have plenty of light, using florescent lights if needed. Start fertilizing when the seedlings reach 2 to 3 inches tall using a soluble fertilizer with each or every other watering.
 
Onion seedlings tend to be spindly with the remains of the seed sticking to the end of a leaf for several weeks. Encourage stockiness by trimming the ends of the leaves when the plants reach 4 to 5 inches tall. Start hardening off the onions in early March by moving the plants to a protected outdoor location. You may have to move them inside temporarily to protect them from extreme cold snaps. (Ward Upham)

The extreme cold on December 18 and 19 have people concerned. The 18th (Sunday) was the coldest with a low temperature of -13 degrees in Manhattan. This would not be a concern if there had been consistently cold temperatures earlier. However, the previous Friday our low was 28 degrees. Fortunately, earlier in the week, temps were in the low teens.  I think that our trees had been hardened off enough they will be fine but I’m not sure.
 
Many of you remember the November 10, 2014 freeze when the temperature dropped from 69 degrees to 19 overnight.  Damage to trees was spotty and varied but very noticeable. Most trees showed no damage at all.  However, an apricot tree in my orchard lost a large branch while another apricot 20 feet away was fine.
 
Also, damage may not show up right away. We saw all of the following.
 
- Trees died over winter and didn’t leaf out in the spring.
 
- Trees leaved out and then either all the tree or a portion of the tree died seemingly overnight.
 
- Trees looked stressed and then either recovered or died either in 2015 or, in some cases, 2016.
 
- Trees lost bark but continued to bear leaves until the tree suddenly died. This often occurred late in 2015 or they survived until 2016 and then died.
 
So, what happened in 2014? I think this is all related to damage to the living tissue under the bark. The sharp drop in temperature killed at least a portion the phloem and the cambium. Remember the phloem carries food made in the leaves to all parts of the plants including the roots. The cambium produces new phloem as well as xylem. Xylem will be discussed later. Now that the phloem is dead and the cambium cannot produce new, living phloem, the roots don’t receive the food needed to survive and eventually starve to death.
 
Why didn’t these trees die immediately? First of all, a healthy root system has stored energy reserves that it can use to keep the tree alive. When those reserves are depleted, the tree dies very quickly. However, a tree also needs water. Since the living portion of the trunk was killed, wouldn’t this stop water flow? Actually, it would not. This is due to how a tree grows and, specifically, how xylem works. Xylem is the structure that carries water from the roots to the top portions of the plant. Even in perfectly healthy trees, most of the xylem is dead. This dead xylem forms hollow tubes that carry the vast majority of water and nutrients throughout the plant.

Though there are living xylem cells, the contents of those cells make them inefficient in moving water. Therefore, the functional portion of the xylem wasn’t hurt by the freeze because it was already dead. Since this xylem system still works, the tree can live for quite a period of time until the roots starve.
 
Does that mean a tree with cracking or lost bark will die? It all depends on how much of the living tissue under the bark was killed. If only a small portion was killed then the tree may recover. If the entire circumference was killed, it is done for and there isn’t anything you can do to save it.
 
Again, I think our trees were hardened off enough to escape damage but it is a “wait and see” situation.  (Ward Upham)

Paperwhites are a form of daffodil that do not require a chilling period in order to bloom. Therefore, they are very easy to force and bring in to bloom.  Following are the steps needed.
 
• Use a 3 to 4-inch decorative container that does not have drainage holes. It should be transparent enough
that you can see the water level in relation to the bulbs.
 
• Place 1 to 2 inches of washed gravel, marbles, glass beads or stones in the bottom of the container. We will call the
material chosen as “media” for the remainder of the article.
 
• Place the bulbs on the media so that they are near one another. Add enough media to hold them in place.
 
• Add enough water that the bottom of the bulb is sitting in water. Do not submerge the bulb. Maintain the water at this level.  It normally takes 4 to 8 weeks for the bulbs to bloom.
 
Unfortunately, paperwhites often become leggy and fall over. Growing in cooler temperatures (60 to 65 degrees) can help but there is another trick that can be useful and involves using a dilute solution of alcohol. No, this trick did not come from an unknown source on the Internet but Cornell University’s Flower Bulb Research Program. They suggest the following to obtain a plant that is 1/3 shorter than normal. Flower size and longevity are not affected.
 
• Grow the bulbs as described above until the shoot is green and about 1 to 2 inches above the top of the bulb.
 
• Pour off the water and replace it with a 4 to 6% alcohol solution.

• Use this solution instead of water for all future waterings.
 
There are two methods to add this solution. The first is to add the alcohol solution to what is already in the container. Add enough to bring it up to the proper level. The second will give shorter plants. In this second method, pour off all the old solution and replace it with the new each time additional solution is needed.
 
So, how do we make the alcohol solution? An easy way is to use rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol is usually 70% alcohol and should be mixed with 1 part alcohol with 10 or 11 parts water.
 
Do not use beer or wine as the sugars present can interfere with normal growth.
 
The researchers were not sure why this worked but suggested the alcohol made it more difficult for the plants to take up water. This water stress stunted growth but did not affect the flowers. (Ward Upham)

January is often a cold and dreary month for many gardeners. However, planning for and starting vegetables and flower transplants from seed can make this a much more interesting time of year.
 
Following are the steps needed to be successful in seed starting.
 
Purchase Recommended, Quality Seed: Start by taking a look at our recommended varieties at
http://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/L41.pdf . These plants have proven themselves across the state of Kansas and this is a good place to start when deciding what to plant. However, also talk to your neighbors, friends and garden center about what has worked well for them. Obtain your seeds from a reputable source including garden centers and seed catalogs. If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year.  Though most seed remains viable for about 3 years, germination decreases as seed ages. See the accompanying article on using old garden seed for more detailed information.
 
Determine the Date to Seed: There are two pieces of information that needs to be known in order to determine the date to seed transplants: the target date for transplanting outside and the number of weeks needed to grow the transplant. The target date for transplanting the cool-season crops such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and onions are the end of March to the beginning of April.
 
Warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers and most annual flowers are usually planted about May 10. There is a companion article in this newsletter listing common plants and the number of weeks needed to grow a transplant.  Northern Kansas may be a week or so later than
 
Sowing Seed: Do not use garden soil to germinate seed as it is too heavy and may contain disease organisms. Use a media made especially for seed germination.

Keep Seed Moist: Seed must be kept moist in order to germinate. Water often enough that the media never dries. Using a clear plastic wrap over the top of the container can reduce the amount of watering needed. Remove the wrap after the seedlings emerge.
 
Light: Most plants will germinate in either darkness or light but some require darkness (Centurea, Larkspur, Pansy, Portulaca, Phlox and Verbena) and others require light (Ageratum, Browallia, Begonia, Coleus, Geranium, Impatiens, Lettuce, Nicotiana, Petunia and Snapdragon).
 
All plants require adequate amounts of light once emergence occurs. South facing windows may not provide adequate amounts and so fluorescent fixtures are often used. Suspend the lights 2 to 4 inches above the top of the plants and leave the lights on for 16 hours each day.
 
Temperature: The temperature best for germination is often higher than what we may find in our homes especially since evaporating moisture can cool the germination media. Moving the container closer to the ceiling (top of a refrigerator) can help but a heating mat is best for consistent germination. A companion article lists common plants and their optimum germination temperature. After plants have germinated, they can be grown at a cooler temperature (65 to 70 degrees during the day and 55 to 60 degrees at night). This will help prevent tall, spindly transplants.
 
Plant Movement: Plants react to movement. Brushing over the plants with your hand stimulates them to become stockier and less leggy. Try 20 brushing strokes per day. However, brushing will not compensate for lack of light or over-crowding. Plants grown under inadequate light will be spindly regardless of any other treatment.
 
Hardening Transplants: Plants grown inside will often undergo transplant shock if not hardened off. Plants are hardened off by moving them outside and exposing them to sun and wind before transplanting occurs. Start about two weeks before transplanting and gradually expose the plants to outside conditions. Increase the number of hours and degree of exposure over the two-week period. (Ward Upham)

Seed stores best if kept in a cold, dark, dry location. We normally consider seed will remain viable for about 3 years under these conditions though there are exceptions. For example, members of the carrot family (carrots, parsnips and parsley) are short-lived and are usually good for only 1 to 2 years. If you are unsure of viability and have plenty of seed, there is an easy method of determining how good your seed is. Place 10 seeds on a paper towel moistened with warm water and cover with a second moistened towel. Roll up the towels and place inside a plastic bag with enough holes for air exchange but not so many that the towels dry quickly. Place the bag in a warm place such as the top of a refrigerator. Remoisten towels with warm water as needed. After the first week, check for germination. Remove sprouted seed and check again after another week. Add these numbers together to determine the percent germination. (Ward Upham)