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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 23

6/7/2016

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Video of the Week:
Controlling Bagworms

Fruit:
Brown Rot of Stone Fruits​

brown rot on stone fruit
The wet weather we have seen in some areas has caused perfect conditions for the formation of brown rot on stone fruits such as peaches and plums. Affected fruit develop a gray to brown, fuzzy growth on the fruit, itself, which may rot in as little as a day or two. It is best to start treating fruit about a month before harvest but spraying is still helpful even if we are within that one month period. Fruit that shows symptoms cannot be saved but should be destroyed to prevent further spread.
 
Use Captan or myclobutanil (Immunox) for control. Many fruit tree sprays contain Captan but check the label to be certain. Apply Captan or Immunox every 7 to 14 days.  Both products can be applied up to the day of harvest.  Note that though Immunox is labeled for fruit but Immunox Plus is not. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
​Sidedressing Annual Flowers

Picture
Modern annual flowers have been bred to flower early and over a long period of time. They are not as easily thrown off flowering by high nitrogen levels as vegetables are. As a matter of fact, providing nitrogen through the growing season (sidedressing) can help maintain an effective flower display for warm-season flowers.
 
Apply a high nitrogen sidedressing four to six weeks after flowers have been set out. Additional fertilizations every three to four weeks can be helpful during a rainy summer, or if flower beds are irrigated. Common sources of nitrogen-only fertilizers include nitrate of soda, urea, and ammonium sulfate. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains primarily, but not exclusively, nitrogen. Use only one of the listed fertilizers and apply at the rate given below.
 
Nitrate of soda (16-0-0): Apply 1/3 pound (.75 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
Blood Meal (12-1.5-.6): Apply 7 ounces (7/8 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
​Urea (46-0-0): Apply 2 ounces (1/4 cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0): Apply 4 ounces (½ cup) fertilizer per 100 square feet.
 
If you cannot find the above materials, you can use a lawn fertilizer that is about 30 percent nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number in the set of three) and apply it at the rate of 3 ounces (3/8 cup) per 100 square feet. Do not use a fertilizer that contains a weed killer or weed preventer.  (Ward Upham)

Spring-Flowering Bulb Foliage Can Be Removed

old foliage on spring bulbs
It is important to leave spring-flowering bulb foliage in place until it “ripens” or becomes brown.  The energy produced by the leaves after flowering is transferred to the bulb so that it can flower the following year.
 
The ripening  process should be near completion about now for tulips, daffodils and various other spring- flowering bulbs.  Use clippers, scissors or even a mower to remove dead foliage.  Also, try to map out where the bulbs are planted as there will be no foliage to make the location next fall when it is time to fertilize.  (Ward Upham)

Rose Rosette

rose rosette
Rose rosette is a serious problem in Kansas on wild roses (Rosa multiflora) in pastures and hedges. It is also found in domestic rose plantings.
 
Infection is thought to start with rapid elongation of a new shoot. The rapid shoot growth may continue for several weeks to a length of two to three feet. Following shoot elongation, a witches' broom or clustering of small branches occurs. The stems develop excessive thorniness and produce small, deformed leaves with a reddish-purple pigmentation. Stems and petioles of Rosa multiflora plants may have reddish blotches or streaks.
 
Rose plants infected with the rose rosette virus die rapidly, usually within one to two years. Rose rosette is caused by a Emaravirus species.  Transmission of the disease has been shown experimentally through grafting and is also thought to be spread by mites. Though KnockOut roses are resistant to many diseases, they are susceptible to this one.
 
There is no effective control measure for infected plants. In garden settings, infected plants should be removed and destroyed, including roots. Any roots that remain after plant removal may produce infected shoots which can harbor the disease. If possible, eliminate all multiflora rose plants from the vicinity as they are extremely susceptible and will act as a carrier. Multiflora rose is the wild rose often seen growing in ditches and pastures.
 
Since the disease can be transmitted by pruning shears, disinfect the shears when moving from one plant to another by using rubbing alcohol or a disinfectant such as Lysol. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
European Fruit Lecanium Scale: Adding a "Decorative Touch" to Bald Cypress

European fruit lecanium scale
The European fruit lecanium scale (Parthenolecanium cornii) is quite noticeable on bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) twigs and branches. The damage associated with this scale, which depends on the extensiveness of the infestation, includes plant stunting and wilting. The European fruit lecanium scale is a soft scale, so honeydew (a sticky, clear liquid) will be produced during feeding. The honeydew serves as a substrate for black sooty mold and attracts ants. In addition, honeydew can drip onto vehicles parked underneath infested trees leaving unsightly residue.
 
The scales are dark brown, 1/8 to 1/4 inches in diamete. Some scales may have white markings on the body. European fruit lecanium scale overwinters as an immature on twigs and branches with maturing occurring in spring. In May and June, females lay many eggs underneath their bodies. In June eggs hatch into small tan-colored crawlers. The duration of an egg hatch can last several days depending on the temperature. Crawlers migrate to leaf undersides and subsequently feed on plant fluids until late summer. At that point, the crawlers migrate back onto twigs and branches to complete their development the following spring. There is one generation per year in Kansas.
 
Management of European fruit lecanium scale primarily involves timely applications of insecticides.  Applications should be made when crawlers are present because the crawlers are most vulnerable life stage to insecticide sprays. Mature scales possess a shell-like covering that protects them from exposure to insecticides. Repeat applications will be required as the eggs do not all hatch simultaneously but may hatch over a three to four-week period. The most appropriate time to apply insecticides is in late June to early July when the crawlers are feeding on leaves; thus enhancing their exposure to any spray residues. There are a number of insecticides, with contact activity that are effective in suppressing populations of the European fruit lecanium scale. However, many have broad-spectrum activity and will kill many natural enemies including: parasitoids and predators. In fact, most outbreaks of scale insects are caused by the indiscriminate use of pesticides (insecticides and miticides). Therefore, always read the label and exercise caution when applying any pesticide. In the winter, dormant oils can be applied to kill overwintering scales by means of suffocation.
 
I need to acknowledge Jeff Otto of Wichita, KS for bringing to my attention that European fruit lecanium scale was active. I have also observed infestations in Manhattan, KS.  (Raymond Cloyd)

Oak Vein Pocket Gall Info Available

oak vein pocket gall
As with many areas in Kansas, Sedgwick County has seen a high level of oak vein pocket gall this year. Matthew McKernan, our Sedgwick County Horticulture Agent and Dr. Raymond Cloyd, our Horticulture Extension Entomologist, have put together a two page fact sheet discussing the problem. Excellent photos and informative text make this a timely and valuable resource for those who need more information on this subject. You can find the publication at: http://www.hfrr.k-state.edu/doc/hort-tips/Oak-Vein-Pocket-Gall.pdf
(Ward Upham)

Pests:
Ticks

Picture
Picture
Ticks are very active throughout the state, and have been for the past month. The most commonly reported
species has been the American dog tick, Dermacentor variabilis.

The cool, humid weather over the past month has provided great conditions for tick development.  These annoying, and potentially dangerous parasites have even been encountered in corn fields, which is unusual as they typically develop in more undisturbed areas of grasses, weeds, and other overgrown vegetation. But, they are very good at finding hosts and getting the blood meal they require for development and reproduction. For more information on ticks in Kansas, please visit: https://www.vet.k-state.edu/vhc/docs/ticks-in-kansas.pdf.  (Jeff Whitworth and Holly Schwarting)

Still Early to Treat Bagworms

Bagworm
Many bagworms have hatched and have come out of the mother's bag but we are still a bit early to treat as we may miss those that are late to emerge.  The latter half of June is a good target to treat for these insects. However, make sure you have living bagworms as sometimes natural predators and parasites provide good levels of control. Look for a miniature version of the mature bagworm. They are still tiny and are about the size of the lead point on a pencil.
 
Insecticides commonly used for controlling bagworms include spinosad (Conserve; Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar Spray; Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew, Bonide Caterpillar Killer), Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel, Thuricide), acephate (Acephate, Orthene, Bonide Systemic Insect Control), cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray) and permethrin (numerous trade names). Products containing Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) are only effective when used against bagworm larvae while they are still small. Note that spinosad and BT are both organic but spinosad is a more effective product, especially on larger larvae.
 
Thorough coverage is vital for good control. Most failures are due to the spray not penetrating deep enough in the tree rather than the insecticide not working. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
After-Effects of Too Much Rain

water logged plants
Some areas of Kansas have had saturated or near-saturated soils for several weeks now. Gardeners are likely to assume that watering won’t be needed for quite some time now as soil moisture levels are very high. Actually, watering may be needed much sooner than you expect. Excessive rain can drive oxygen out of the soil and literally drown roots.
Therefore, as we enter hotter, drier weather, the plants with damaged root systems may be very susceptible to a lack of water. Don’t forget to check your plants for signs of wilting or leaf scorching and water as needed.
 
If irrigation is called for, water deeply and infrequently. Usually once per week is sufficient depending on the weather. Soil should be moist but not waterlogged. (Ward Upham)
 
Contributors: Raymond Cloyd, Extension Entomologist; Holly Schwarting, Entomology; Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Jeff Whitworth, Entomology

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Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 26

6/29/2015

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Video of the Week:
Harvesting and Storing Onions

Upcoming Events:

K-State Bedding Plant Field Day
Tuesday, July 21, 2015
For more information, go to: http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc4321.ashx

K-State Research & Extension Center
Horticulture Field Day
See what grows best in KC!
Saturday, July 25
8:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
35230 West 135th St., Olathe
Tickets: $5.00 each (purchase at gate)
* Annual Flowers
* Cool Classes
* “Walk and Talk” with K-State experts
* Vegetable Trials                    

Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day
Thursday, August 6, 2015
For more information, go to:  Turf Field Day

Fruit:
When to Pick Blackberries

blackberries
The exact time to harvest blackberries varies by cultivar, with thorny blackberries normally ripening earlier than thornless types. But there are some general guidelines to keep in mind when harvesting blackberries. Do not pick blackberries too early or berry size and flavor will be sacrificed. Two major characteristics determining maturity for harvest are fruit color and ease of separation.

Blackberries usually develop a dull, black color with plump, juicy fruitlets as they ripen. The berries soften and produce the characteristic flavor. Full color often develops before the berries separate easily. Pick the berries by gently lifting with the thumb and fingers. The receptacle, or center part of the fruit, remains in the fruit when blackberries are harvested, unlike raspberries, which leave the receptacle on the bush. Take care not to crush the berries or expose them to the hot sun. When possible, avoid picking berries when they are wet. They'll probably need picking every second or third day. Cool the berries immediately after harvest to extend shelf life. Keep them refrigerated under high relative humidity and use within three to five days. (Ward Upham)

Brown Rot of Stone Fruit

brown rot on peach
The wet weather we have seen in some areas has caused a great deal of brown rot on stone fruits such as peaches and plums.  Affected fruit develop a gray to brown, fuzzy growth on the fruit which may rot in as little as a day or two.  It is best to start treating fruit about a month before harvest but spraying is still helpful even if we are within that one month period.  Fruit that shows symptoms cannot be saved but should be destroyed to prevent further spread. 

Use Captan or myclobutanil (Immunox) for control.  Many fruit tree sprays contain Captan but check the label to be certain.  Apply Captan or Immunox every 7 to 14 days.  Both products can be applied up to the day of harvest.

Note that though Immunox is labeled for fruit but Immunox Plus is not.  (Ward Upham)

Turf:
Brown Patch on Fescue

brown patch on fescue
We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather.

There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum.

Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection. The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't get your seeding or overseeding rates too high.

Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (Bayer Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Remember that more often than not the turf will recover from brown patch. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Harvesting Potatoes

potatoes
Potatoes are ready to harvest when the vines are about half dead. Potatoes dug too early have tender skins and are easily bruised. Delaying digging will allow the soil to heat because it is no longer shaded by foliage. High soil temperatures can lead to sprouting potatoes. Allow potatoes to "set" by keeping them in a shady, dry location for a day or so. Move them to a cool, moist environment such as a cellar or cool basement for longer storage. (Ward Upham)

Pulling Onions

onion ready to harvest
Onions are ready to harvest when about half the plants have tops that have fallen over. This is a sign that the onions are mature and need to be pulled out of the ground. Bulbs may sunburn without the foliage to protect them. The secret to onions keeping well is to allow the tops to dry completely before storage. Move onions to a shaded, well-ventilated area after harvest.  

After tops are completely dry, store in a cool, dry location. Large-necked onions take more time to dry than small-necked onions such as Bermuda types. Avoid storage in plastic bags because the lack of air circulation will shorten storage life. Use an open, mesh bag instead. (Ward Upham)

Raccoons and Sweet Corn

raccoon fence around sweet corn
It seems the official sweet corn inspector should be the raccoon as they seem to harvest the sweet corn the day before it is to be picked. The only effective control measure I have had success with for larger plantings is the electric fence. Here are some suggestions based on my experience. Other designs may very well work but this is what has worked in my garden.

– Two or more wires must be used. Place the first about 5 inches above the ground and the second 4 inches above the first (or 9 inches above ground). Raccoons must not be able to crawl under, go between or go over the wires without being shocked.

– Fence posts used for electric fences work well for this application (go figure), as do the insulators used to support the electric wire.

– It is much easier to use the woven electric wire with strands of wire embedded than to use a solid metal wire. The woven wire is easier to bend around corners and to roll up when done for the year.

– Though both the plug-in and battery operated fencers work, the battery operated types allow more versatility in where corn is grown. One set of batteries is usually sufficient for the season.  In my case, I pull the battery out of an old tractor that is not used often. It will also last the season if fully charged at the beginning. My fencer is probably on for a total of a month.

– Start the charger before the corn is close to being ripe. Once raccoons get a taste of the corn, they are more difficult to discourage.

– Control weeds near the wire. Weeds can intercept the voltage if they touch a wire and allow raccoons entry beyond the weed.

– Check the wire occasionally to make sure you have current. This can be done easily (but unpleasantly) by touching the wire. There are also tools that will measure the voltage available for sale. They are worth the money.  (Ward Upham)

Sweet Corn Earworm

sweet corn earworm
Corn earworm tends to be a problem every year on sweet corn in Kansas. The earworm moth lays eggs on developing silks at night. When the egg hatches, the larva crawls down the silk and into the ear. Feeding starts at the tip of the ear and works down. Though several earworms may hatch and attack a single ear, only one is usually present at harvest due to the cannibalistic nature of the insect. Control is challenging as silks continue to grow over a period of time. This means that even if silks are treated, new silk will appear that hasn't been protected.  Applications every 2 to 3 days are needed for insecticides to be effective, especially in late June to early July when peak flight of these moths usually appear.

There is a three-week period from silking to harvest, but there is only a two-week period from when the silks appear to when they begin to dry. Since moths prefer juicy silks and shun those that have started to dry, insecticides are only needed the first two weeks of silking.

Homeowners can use cyfluthrin (Baythroid; Bayer Powerforce Multi-Insect Killer) or spinosad (SpinTor; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew; Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Leafminer Spray). Spinosad is an organic product. Commercial growers have additional choices including zeta-cypermethrin (Mustang Max), bifenthrin+zeta-cypermethrin (Hero), spinetoram (Radiant) and flubendiamide (Belt).

Though more time consuming, mineral or other light horticultural oils may also be used. The oil is placed inside the silk end of the ear with a medicine dropper (½ to 3/4 of a dropper) after the silks brown. This will coat the earworms already present and likely suffocate them, though some damage to the tip of the ear will likely have occurred. Applying the oil before the silk has browned may interfere with pollination, leading to incompletely filled ears. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
 
To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe

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    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

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