K-State Research and Extension Horticulture Newsletter
  • Newsletters
  • About
  • Contact
  • Pest of the Week

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 21

5/26/2015

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
How Often to Water Lawns

Turfgrass:
Too Wet to Mow the Lawn

wet grass
What do you do when the lawn can't be cut because of constant rain? The best thing to do is to set your mower as high as possible and bring it down in steps. It is always best never to take more than one third of the grass blade off at one time. If more is taken, the plant reacts by using stored energy reserves to quickly send up new growth. This reduces the amount of energy available for the plant to deal with stress or damage done by insects or disease. However, sometimes it is just not possible to keep the "one-third rule." In such cases, cut as high as possible even though it may mean you are cutting off more than one third of the blade. Bring the height down gradually by cutting more often and at progressively lower heights until you reach the target height. (Ward Upham)

Thatch Control in Warm-Season Lawns

warm season grass thatch
Thatch control for cool-season lawn grasses such as bluegrass and tall fescue is usually done in the fall but now is the time we should perform this operation for warm-season turfgrasses such as bermuda-grass and zoysiagrass. Because these operations thin the lawn, they should be performed when the lawn is in the best position to recover.
For warm-season grasses that time is June through July. Buffalograss, our other common warm-season
grass, normally does not need to be dethatched.

When thatch is less than one-half inch thick, there is little cause for concern; on the contrary, it may provide some protection to the crown (growing point) of the turfgrass. However, when thatch exceeds one-half inch in thickness, the lawn may start to deteriorate. Thatch is best kept in check by power-raking and/or core-aerating. If thatch is more than 3/4 inch thick, the lawn should be power-raked. Set the blades just deep enough to pull out the thatch. The lawn can be severely damaged by power-raking too deeply. In some cases, it may be easier to use a sod cutter
to remove the existing sod and start over with seed, sprigs or plugs.

If thatch is between one-half and a 3/4- inch, thick, core-aeration is a better choice. The soil-moisture level is important to do a good job of core-aerating. It should be neither too wet nor too dry, and the soil should crumble fairly easily when worked between your fingers. Go over the lawn enough times so that the aeration holes are about 2 inches apart. Excessive thatch accumulation can be prevented by not over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Frequent,
light watering also encourages thatch. Water only when needed, and attempt to wet the entire root zone of the turf with each irrigation.

Finally, where thatch is excessive, control should be viewed as a long-term, integrated process (i.e., to include proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing) rather than a one-shot cure. One power-raking or core-aeration will seldom solve the problem. (Ward Upham)

Time to Fertilize Warm-Season Grass

lawn of warm season grass
June is the time to fertilize warm-season lawn grasses such as bermudagrass, buffalograss, and zoysiagrass. These species all thrive in warmer summer weather, so this is the time they respond best to fertilization. The most important nutrient is nitrogen (N), and these three species need it in varying amounts.

Bermudagrass requires the most nitrogen. High-quality bermuda stands need about 4 lbs. N per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season (low maintenance areas can get by on 2 lbs.). Apply this as four separate applications, about 4 weeks
apart, of 1 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. starting in early May. It is already too late for the May application, but the June application is just around the corner. The nitrogen can come from either a quick- or slow-release source. Plan the last application for no later than August 15. This helps ensure the bermudagrass is not overstimulated, making it susceptible to winter-kill.

Zoysiagrass grows more slowly than bermudagrass and is prone to develop thatch. Consequently, it does not need as much nitrogen. In fact, too much is worse than too little. One and one-half to 2 pounds N per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season is sufficient. Split the total in two and apply once in early June and again around mid-July. Slow-release N is preferable but quick-release is acceptable.

Buffalograss requires the least nitrogen of all lawn species commonly grown in Kansas. It will survive and persist with no supplemental nitrogen, but giving it 1 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. will improve color and density. This application should be made in early June. For a little darker color, fertilize it as described for zoysiagrass in the previous paragraph, but do not apply more than a total of 2 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. in one season. Buffalograss tends to get weedy when given too much nitrogen. As with zoysia, slow-release N is preferable, but fast-release is also OK. As
for all turfgrasses, phosphorus and potassium are best applied according to soil test results because many soils already have adequate amounts of these nutrients for turfgrass growth. If you need to apply phosphorus or potassium, it is best to core aerate beforehand to insure the nutrients reach the roots. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Trees Not Leafing Out

Tree not leafing out
We have had numerous reports of trees not leafing out or putting out only a fraction of the leaves normally borne. We believe much of this is due to the quick drop in temperature from November 10 to 11 last year. We went from a high of 69 degrees on November 10 to a low of 19 the following morning. Many trees had not hardened off and were damaged.

If a tree hasn’t leafed out at all, check the stems. If they are dry and brittle, that part of the tree is dead. However, sometimes the tips of the branches are dead but the tree is alive further back. Take a knife and shave off the outer bark on several small-diameter, young branches. If the tissue underneath is water soaked or dark brown to black in color, then it is likely dead. This cambium layer should be a greenish-white color. As long as the twigs remain supple and the tissue under the bark isn’t dark, there is hope.

So, what should we do for these trees? Help them avoid stress. This means watering during dry weather so the tree has good sap flow. Trees transplanted within the last couple of years should be watered every week during dry weather. More established trees should be watered every two weeks if there is no rainfall.

On young trees, kill all the grass under the tree and mulch. Reducing root competition makes for a healthier tree that is more likely to recover.

And finally, remove any dead wood so that insects and disease do not have a point of entry. Dead wood can be removed any time of year. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Sidedressing Chart Available

annual flower
Gregg Eyestone, Horticulture Agent from Riley County, has put together a nice chart that covers sidedressing nitrogen on annual flowers, certain perennial flowers, vegetables and various small fruit. Sidedressing (also called topdressing) is applying nitrogen fertilizer as plants are growing to give them an extra boost. Done correctly, sidedressing can improve vegetable, fruit and flower production. Gregg lists the crop, the amount of fertilizer needed, and suggested time of application. Rates are given for ammonium sulfate, urea and blood meal. You may find the chart at http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc3952.ashx (Ward Upham)

Excessive Rain Can Cause Leaf Problems

tree leaves turning color
Leaves Turning Yellow or Red: In Kansas we often see chlorosis (yellowing) of plant leaves due to high pH soils making iron unavailable. However, there can other causes that result in similar symptoms. For example, we have received so much rain in certain parts of the state recently that plants are unable to take up the nutrients needed to maintain a good green color. The cause of this condition is actually a lack of oxygen in the soil due to soil pore space being filled with water. This lack of oxygen to the roots often results in a yellowing of foliage. In certain plants such as oaks and maples, however, it may also lead to a reddening of some of the newer leaves. Fortunately, color changes due to wet soils will be corrected as soils dry. Plants should regain their color when we return to more normal weather.

Trees Shedding Leaves: If trees shed leaves in a general shedding with all parts of the tree losing some leaves, then there is no cause for concern. A general shedding of the leaves is most often due to weather turning hot and dry. The tree drops leaves because the root system can no longer keep up. Dropping leaves helps balance the amount of water available from the root system and the amount needed by the leaves.

However, the same thing can happen if the soil is too wet. A lack of oxygen in the soil compromises the root system so it can no longer support all the leaves. Therefore, the tree drops some leaves to bring the tree roots and leaves back into balance. The tree will retain more than enough leaves to remain healthy. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Bristly Rose Slug

Bristly Rose Slub
This insect has been skeletonizing rose leaves in the Kansas City area. This is not a caterpillar but is the larva of a sawfly. Close examination of this small (½ inch) larva will reveal very fine, hairlike spines in clusters.

Young larvae will remove the green layer of a leaf leaving behind a clear material. As the larvae mature, they make holes in the leaf and eventually may consume all of the leaf but the major veins.

Since these insects are not caterpillars (larvae of moths or butterflies), BT, found in Dipel and Thuricide will not be an effective treatment. However, a strong jet of water will dislodge the slugs and make it difficult for them to return to the plant. Other effective treatments include insecticidal soap, horticultural oils, spinosad (Fertilome Borer Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew) and permethrin (various trade names). (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

2015 Horticulture Newsletter, No. 20

5/19/2015

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
Harvesting Lettuce

Upcoming Events

KAA & KNLA Summer Field Day
June 11 & 12
Haysville/Belle Plain, KS
For more information, go to http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc4298.ashx

KSU Bedding Plant Field Day
July 21
K-State Research & Extension Center, Olathe

K-State Research & Extension Center Open House
July 25
Olathe


Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day
August 6
K-State Research & Extension Center, Olathe
For more information, go to TurfFieldDay

Vegetables:
Mulching Tomatoes

tomato plant with straw mulch
Soils are warm enough now that tomatoes can benefit from mulching. Tomatoes prefer even levels of soil moisture and mulches provide such by preventing excessive evaporation. Other benefits of mulching include weed suppression, moderating soil temperatures and preventing the formation of a hard crust on the soil. Crusted soils restrict air movement into and out of the soil and slow the water infiltration rate.

Hay and straw mulches are very popular for tomatoes but may contain weed or volunteer grain seeds. Grass clippings can also be used but should be applied as a relatively thin layer – only 2 to 3 inches thick. Clippings should also be dry as wet clipping can mold and become so hard that water can’t pass through. Also, do not use clippings from lawns that have been treated with a weed killer until some time has passed. With most types of weed killers, clippings from the fourth mowing after treatment may be used. If the lawn was treated with a product containing quinclorac (Drive), the clippings should not be used as mulch.  If the weed killer used has a crabgrass killer, it likely contains quinclorac. (Ward Upham)


Turfgrass:
Controlling Yellow Nutsedge in Lawns

yellow nutsedge
Yellow nutsedge is a relatively common problem in lawns, especially in wet years or in lawns with irrigation. Although it looks much like a grass, it is a sedge. Unlike grasses, sedges have triangular stems, and the leaves are three-ranked instead of two-ranked, which means the leaves come off the stems in three different directions. Yellow nutsedge is pale green to yellow and grows rapidly in the spring and early summer. Because of this rapid shoot growth, it sticks up above the rest of the lawn only a few days after mowing. This weed is a good indicator of poor drainage, but it can be introduced into well-drained sites through contaminated topsoil or nursery stock. As with many weeds, nutsedge is less competitive in a dense, healthy lawn than in an open, poor lawn.

Nutsedge is difficult to control culturally because it produces numerous tubers that give rise to new plants. Pulling nutsedge will increase the number of plants because dormant tubers are activated. However, it is possible to control nutsedge by pulling, but you must be persistent. If you are, eventually the nutsedge will die out.

If you were going to treat with an herbicide, it would be better to leave the nutsedge plants undisturbed so the herbicide can be maximally translocated to the roots, rhizomes, and tubers.  Several herbicides are available for nutsedge control. Sedge Hammer, which used to be called Manage, is the most effective and safe for most turfgrasses. It is also the most expensive, but if an infestation is not too severe, one application should take care of the problem. The Sedge Hammer label says to apply it after nutsedge has reached the three- to eight-leaf stage. Waiting until this growth stage apparently results in improved translocation of the active ingredient to the underground tubers and rhizomes. However, research has shown that the application should go down by June 21. If the initial spray is after June 21, mature daughter tubers may be stimulated to grow.

Small packages of Sedge Hammer are available to homeowners. Using a non-ionic surfactant with the Sedge Hammer will give better control. (Ward Upham)

Recent Rains Trigger Mushroom Development

mushrooms in turf
The frequent, heavy rains in certain areas of the state have resulted in the appearance of mushrooms in home lawns and landscape beds.  Although mushrooms are often spectacular in size and color, most are relatively harmless to plant life. Some of these mushrooms are associated with arc-like or circular patterns in turfgrass called fairy rings. The ring pattern is caused by the outward growth of fungal mycelium. The mycelium forms a dense, mat-like structure in the soil that decomposes organic matter. This decomposition releases nitrate into the soil, which in turn stimulates the growth of the grass at the outer portion of the ring. This results in a dark green appearance of the grass at the margin of the ring.

Unfortunately, the thick fungal mat formed by the fungus interferes with water infiltration. The fungus also may release certain byproducts that are toxic to the turf. This can lead to dieback of the turf close to the ring. Fairy rings are difficult to control. You can sometimes eliminate the ring by digging to a depth of 6 to 12 inches and 12 inches wide on both sides of the ring, refilling the hole with non-infested soil. Or you can try to mask the symptoms by fertilizing the rest of the lawn so that it is as dark green as the ring. This often isn't a good idea because it tends to promote other turf problems. Commercial people can use certain fungicides to control fairy rings but these products are not available to homeowners. See http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/EP155.pdf   for more info on these fungicides.

Some mushrooms in lawns are not associated with fairy rings. These may be mycorrhizal (symbiotic association with tree roots) or saprophytic (live on dead organic matter such as wood, etc.) in the soil. Because some of these mushrooms are beneficial, you don't really want to kill them. Besides, a fungicide spray to the mushroom itself does little good. Remember the mushroom is simply the fruiting structure of the organism. Most of the fungus is below ground and inaccessible to the chemical. If mushrooms are a nuisance, pick them and dispose of them as soon as they appear. Remove sources of large organic debris from the soil. Also, mushrooms tend to go away as soil dries. Patience may be the best control. Some of the mushrooms in the lawn are edible, but others are poisonous. Never eat mushrooms unless you are sure of their identity. (Ward Upham)

Control of Prostrate Spurge

prostrate spurge weed
Prostrate spurge is one of the more difficult broadleaf weeds to control. It is a summer annual that must come up from seed every year. If caught when young, it is easier, though still difficult, to control. Correct herbicide selection is important. Mature plants are almost impossible to control, even with selected herbicides.

Several years ago K-State Research and Extension conducted a study on the phytotoxic effects of certain herbicides on buffalograss. During the application, we noted the presence of a large number of small prostrate spurge plants. As the study progressed, plots were rated for percent control of spurge. The results were interesting. We found that Drive (quinclorac) provided more than 90 percent control. Until recently, Drive was only available to commercial applicators. Now homeowners have additional products that contain Drive. Those products are listed below. 

        Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control
        Bayer All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer.
        Drive in Monterey Lawn and Garden Fertilome Weed Out with Q
        Trimec Crabgrass Plus Lawn Weed Killer
        Bonide Weed Beater Plus Crabgrass & Broadleaf Weed Killer
        Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer

If you choose to use any of the above products, do not compost clippings or use them as mulch.   The quinclorac can harm certain broadleaf plants. Clippings should be returned to the lawn or discarded.

Dimension and Turflon Ester offered more than 80 percent control, and Trimec 78 percent. Dimension results were surprising because it is a preemergence herbicide with some postemergence activity that is commonly used for crabgrass control. Turflon Ester should only be used on cool-season grass such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass; not on warm-season grasses such as bermuda, zoysia or buffalo.  Remember that these are very small, immature spurge plants.  Larger, more mature plants are much more difficult to control. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Fireblight on Apple and Pear

fireblight on fruit tree
Fireblight is most common on ornamental pears, fruiting pears and apples. Symptoms of fireblight include blackened, blighted shoots scattered throughout the tree crown. The shoots may have the classic Shepherd's crook where the blighted tips bend downward. There may be small amber droplets of bacteria on the stem. This late in the season, antibiotic applications are not effective in controlling the disease. It is important, however, to control insects that may become contaminated with the bacterium and/or create wounds for infection.                                      

During the summer, prune out the blighted tips during dry weather. Make your pruning cut 10 to 12 inches below the discolored area of the branch. Disinfect pruning equipment between cuts with a 10 percent bleach solution, rubbing alcohol or some other disinfecting agent. If using bleach, be sure to clean and oil equipment after use because bleach is corrosive. Some people prefer the ugly stub method and snap the branch off below the blighted area. This helps someone see at a glance where fireblight occurred in the tree and will facilitate follow-up pruning during the winter. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Vein Pocket Galls on Oak

pin oak galls
We are seeing a high number of oak galls this year, especially vein pocket gall on pin oak leaves. Vein pocket gall causes abnormal swelling of the leaf near the veins. Actually, there are hundreds of different types of galls, each of which is caused by a specific insect. Insects that can cause different galls on oaks include tiny, non-stinging wasps and flies which cause abnormal growths to develop on the leaves, twigs or branches of oak trees. There are even some mites that can cause galls. These galls can include growths that are round, spiny, flattened, elongated or star-shaped. Galls form in response to a chemical that the insect or mite injects into the plant tissue. Eggs laid by a mature female hatch into legless grubs around which the gall forms. The larvae feed, develop, and pupate inside these galls. The adults may emerge either the same season or may overwinter inside the gall depending on the life history of that specific insect.

Generally, these gall insects do not cause significant damage to their hosts, though some of the leaf galls can cause enough deformity to make a tree unsightly. Also, severe infestations of twig galls can cause twig dieback or, rarely, tree death. However, just because a twig is covered with galls does not mean it is dead. I have seen twigs that looked like a solid mass of galls leaf out in the spring.

Insecticide sprays applied when galls are noticed are ineffective because damage has already occurred. Also, larvae are unaffected because of the protection afforded by the gall. Insecticide sprays can kill emerging adult wasps and flies, but long emergence periods and short residuals of most contact insecticides make this impractical. Stem and twig galls can be pruned if this is deemed to be practical and necessary. Fortunately, natural predators and parasites usually bring these insects under control given a year or two.  Therefore, the best option is usually to do nothing.  (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Iris Bacterial Soft Rot

Iris bacterial soft rot
Bacterial soft rot of iris causes a smelly and slimy rot of the leaves and rhizomes. Leaves often separate easily from the rhizome. Heavily infested plants may die.

Though most often associated with iris borer, environmental damage can also provide an entry point for this disease.

Rhizomes that show extensive signs of damage should be discarded.  If there is a plant that has special value, you may wish to try to save it. The American Iris Society suggests using a spoon to remove all infected tissue. Then, allow the rhizome to dry in the sun. Finally, use a chlorine based cleanser to powder the wound. Dousing in place with Dial antibacterial soap (with triclosan) can be substituted for the chlorine based cleanser.

When dividing rhizomes from beds that have shown evidence of soft rot, disinfect the knife between cuts of even apparently healthy rhizomes with a 10% bleach solution or rubbing alcohol.

As mentioned previously, iris borer damage can provide a place of entry for this disease. To control iris borers, remove and discard dead leaves in the fall to eliminate a number of the iris borer eggs. Larvae can also be killed by hand in June by squeezing infested leaves in the vicinity of the injury. During division, borers in lightly infested rhizomes can be killed by poking them with a piece of wire. Borer control can also be achieved through the use of imidacloprid (Merit, Bayer All-In-One Rose & Flower Care, Bonide Systemic Granules, Hi-Yield Systemic Insect Granules) or through the use of the parasitic nematodes Steinernema carpocapsae or Heterorhabditis bacteriophora.

Imidacloprid should be used as a drench (directions on label) when the air temperature reaches 70 degrees two days in a row.

The parasitic nematodes must be applied when the soil temperature is above 50 degrees F. Use 1 quart water/nematode mix per square foot to allow the nematodes to swim to the pest. Steinernema carpocapsae gave better control (100%) than Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (87%) in research conducted by the University of Maryland. (Ward Upham)

Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 19

5/11/2015

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
Tips on Applying Mulch

Ornamentals:
Anthracnose on Sycamore

Anthracnose on Sycamore leaf
We are starting to see anthracnose on sycamore. Anthracnose is a fungal disease favored by cool, wet weather. Young leaves may wither and turn black. On older leaves, look for brown areas that follow the major veins of the leaves. In some cases, the petiole (leaf stem) is infected, which causes leaf drop. The leaf may look perfectly fine, so look for browned areas on the petiole.

In severe cases, the tree drops heavily infected leaves and may be completely defoliated.  Healthy trees will leaf out again in a few weeks. Defoliation this early in the year does not affect overall tree health. Trees have plenty of time to produce new leaves and make the energy reserves needed to survive the winter.

Other types of trees that are affected by anthracnose include birch, elm, walnut, oak and especially ash.  Anthracnose seldom causes significant damage to trees in Kansas, so chemical controls are usually unnecessary. Also, fungicides do not cure infected leaves. Applying fungicides now is not recommended. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
"Staggering" Sweet Corn Plantings

sweet corn staggered planting
Sweet corn is one of those crops that is only "good" for a few days. If you want longer periods of production, consider staggering the planting. In other words, plant a small block, wait a period of time, and then plant the next block. Though it is tempting to follow a calendar schedule, such as planting a small block every week, it is better to use crop development as a trigger. If you plant on a calendar schedule, you may have noticed that later plantings often catch up with earlier ones. Instead, plant the next block of sweet corn when the previous one is one-half to one inch tall. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Thinning Excess Fruit

apples before thinning
apples after thinning
Many areas of Kansas have avoided late freezes resulting in a heavy fruit crop this year. At first glance, this might seem to be a good thing. But too many fruit can cause problems that should be alleviated with thinning. For example, a heavy fruit crop can interfere with fruit bud development this summer. This can result in a small to no crop next year. This problem most often appears with apples. Thus, thinning helps ensure that good crops are produced each year.

The second benefit of thinning is to promote larger fruit on this year’s crop. Fruit trees are limited in how many fruit they can mature. Too many fruit and fruit size goes down.

A third problem often caused by too many fruit is limb damage. Sometimes the weight of a maturing fruit crop can literally break branches. Thinning will help limit weight and preserve branches.

So how much thinning should we do? Thinning recommendations vary with the type of tree.  Guidelines for fruit spacing are as follows:

        Apples and pears: 4 to 6 inches apart;
        Peaches: 6 to 8 inches apart;
        Plums and prunes: 4 to 5 inches apart;
        Apricots: 2 to 4 inches between fruit.

These are averages and so you may have several fruit clustered closer than this distance. As long as the average on the branch is close to the recommended spacing, the fruit should size well.  Cherries are not thinned and can produce a full fruit load. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Cabbage Worm

cabbage worm larva
This is the time of year we normally start seeing damage from cabbage worms. The imported cabbage worm is usually the first cabbage worm species to appear and is a fuzzy, elongated green worm. Larvae come from eggs laid by the white butterfly often seen flitting around the plants. Early control is essential to reduce injury. BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) and spinosad (Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew) are effective organic products that are labeled for this pest. BT can be found in Dipel, Thuricide and other similar materials. Direct sunlight deactivates BT quickly so it is helpful to spray late in the day or on a cloudy day. Conventional insecticides such as carbaryl (Sevin), malathion and methoxychlor are also effective but will kill natural enemies of these pests. Be sure to hit the underside of leaves where insects feed. Note that hitting the underside of leaves is easier when using a dust applied with a duster than when using a liquid spray. (Ward Upham)

Cucumber Beetles and Bacterial Wilt

cucumber beetle
If you had cucumbers or muskmelons that suddenly turned brown and died last year, you may have had a disease known as bacterial wilt. The cucumber beetle carries this disease. Once a plant is infected, there is no cure, so prevention is the key. Because cucumber beetles overwinter as adults, early control measures are essential.  There are two types of cucumber beetles: striped and spotted. The striped cucumber beetle is the most common. The 1/4-inch-long beetles are conspicuously colored: black head and antennae, straw-yellow thorax, and yellowish wing covers with three distinct parallel and longitudinal black stripes. Young plants can be protected with row covers, cones, or other types of mechanical barriers. Edges must be sealed to ensure that the beetles do not find a place to enter. Plants will eventually outgrow these barriers, or they will need to be removed to allow insect pollination of the flowers. Apply insecticides before beetles are noticed in the planting. Continue to spray weekly throughout the season. 

Homeowners can use permethrin (numerous trade names). Once plants have started flowering, spray in the evening after bees have returned to the hive. Check labels for waiting periods between when you spray and when the fruit can be picked. (Ward Upham)

17-Year Cicadas: 2015 is the Year

17-year cicada
By the end of May and into June, the “buzz” created by massive numbers of newly emerged 17-year periodical cicadas will create quite a “buzz” mainly amongst citizens of eastern Kansas.

With their distinctive appearance (black body, blood-red beady eyes and orange-veined clear/transparent wings), there can be no mistaking periodical cicadas for any other insect.

Whereas there is a tendency to lump/consider periodical cicadas as “one,” there actually are three separate species of 17- year periodical cicadas. Only Magicicada cassinii and M. septendecim have been officially documented as occurring in Kansas. Of the 4,437 periodicals that I collected from 37 counties in 1998, 98.7% were cassinii.

Without seeing an actual specimen, one can discern whether cassinii or septendecim is present. That is, the call produced by cassinii is a continuous or somewhat high-pitched buzzing possibly with come ticks interspersed, while the call of septendecim is a more hollow “weeeee whoa weeeee whoa ………..” (sometimes people say it sounds like “pharaoh …….)”  Only males are capable of calling/chorusing —- the purpose being to attract females for mating purposes.

Probably the main complaints lodged by people against periodical cicadas have to do with the appearance of emergence holes in the ground, occasionally mud turrets produced by nymphs prior to their emergence, large number of nymphal exuvia (“skins”) from which adult cicadas emerged, and the noise created by the clusters of congregated males

Also, the egglaying activities can kill tips of branches, thus causing the appearance of dead branch tips which is but an aesthetical brief and inconsequential event.

All this being said, the 2015 emergence of Brood IV periodical cicadas (which includes portions of Iowa, Nebraska, Missouri and Oklahoma) was initiated in 1998 when 1st instar nymphs hatched, dropped to the ground and burrowed in. During the past 16 years, they fed by inserting their piercing, sucking mouthparts into the xylem tissues of tree and woody shrub hosts. The now fully-developed 5th instar nymphs currently are waiting for soil temperatures to reach the proper temperature (cited to be 64 degrees F) which signals them that the time has come that they should emerge from their underground habitat. After emerging, the skin down its back will split, and a “new adult” will emerge. Initially it will be white and soft. Over the next several hours, it will darken and take on its characteristic coloration. However, the exoskeleton will still be soft. An additional 4-5 days will be required for the exoskeleton to harden. It is at this point that cicadas will take flight, males will call, females will respond and and mating will occur.

The female then will use her serrated ovipositor to slice into and create cavities in twigs into which she will insert up to 20 eggs. She will repeat this activity as many times as is required for her to deposit her full complement of eggs which may total up to 600. Six to 10 weeks later (a time at which all of the periodical cicadas will have died), the newly hatched nymphs drop to the soil burrow into the ground, feed for 16 years and reappear/emerge in 2032!  (Bob Bauernfeind)

Editor’s Note: A larger article with more images can be found at: http://blogs.k-state.edu/kansasbugs/2015/05/01/easy-math-2015-minus-1998-17/ 
Bob would appreciate receiving any reports of periodical cicada activities that you encounter —— Phone: 785-539-7510; e-mail: rbauernf@ksu.edu. Of special interest would be reports from Morris, Republic, McPherson and Harvey counties.


Miscellaneous:
Moving Houseplants Outside for the Summer

houseplant outside
It is often helpful to set many houseplants outside for the summer so they can recover from the low light levels endured during the winter months. As soon as night temperatures stay consistently above 55 degrees F, houseplants can be moved to their summer home. Choose a spot that has dappled shade, is protected from the wind and is close to water. A porch or a spot that receives shade from trees or buildings will work well. Putting houseplants in full sun will cause the leaves to photooxidize or sunburn because the leaves have become adapted to low light levels inside the house. Where possible, sink the pots into the ground to help moderate root temperatures and reduce watering frequency.

If you have a number of plants, dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep (or deeper if you have larger pots) and long enough to accommodate all of your plants without crowding. Place peat moss under and around the pots. Peat moss holds water, helps keep the pots cool and reduces evaporation from clay pots. About every two weeks, rotate the pots a quarter turn to break off any roots that have penetrated the peat moss surrounding the pot and to equalize the light received on all sides of the pot. Water as needed. If the potting soil is dry a half-inch deep in the pot, it is time to water. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Bob Bauernfeind, Entomologist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 18

5/5/2015

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
Hydrangea: Macrophylla

Fruit:
Peaches and Apricots

Peaches
Many parts of Kansas will have a peach and apricot crop that wasn’t badly hurt by late frosts. To take advantage of this good fortune certain things should be done as the fruit matures to ensure a good harvest.

Control insects and diseases: Though it is too late to control peach leaf curl (see http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc3168.ashx), it is possible to control scab and brown rot. Insects of concern are plum curculio, oriental fruit moth, plant bugs, and stink bugs. Use Captan or Immunox to control the diseases, and malathion to control the insects. Spray every 10 to 14 days. Pay attention to the waiting period between the last spray and harvest. See the publication, “Fruit Pest Control for Home Gardens” at http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/c592.pdf for details including organic controls.

Thin peaches: Thin peaches to 1 every 6 to 8 inches to maximize fruit size and to decrease the load on the branches. As a general rule, we need about 40 leaves per peach for maximum quality. Peaches are borne in clusters, so calculate how many a branch can support by dividing the length of the branch in inches by 7. As long as there is an average of 7 inches of branch length per peach, it doesn’t matter whether the peaches are in clusters or not.

Water Trees as Needed: The most critical time for adequate water is during the pit hardening stage which usually lasts between 2 to 4 weeks. Cut open a few peaches to determine when the pit starts to harden or become woody. Irregular watering during this period can lead to split peaches.

Prop up branches if needed: Prop up branches if the fruit load is so heavy the tree may break apart. Use boards with a “V” cut in one end to support the branch. Prune the branch back to a smaller side branch next spring (March). (Ward Upham)

Fruit Sprays and Spray Water pH

apple
Two of the common pesticides used in fruit tree sprays are malathion (for insects) and captan (for diseases). Unfortunately, both of these products are subject to alkaline hydrolysis. This is a process whereby certain
pesticides will break down when mixed with high pH water. So let’s say you mix up your spray mixture by adding malathion and captan to 5 gallons of water. If that water has a pH of 7, the captan will break down so that
only half of it will still be present in 8 hours. However, if the water you use has a pH of 10, half the captan will break down in 2 minutes. Malathion isn’t nearly as sensitive but still will break down under high pH conditions
though it is stable at a pH between 5 and 7. Note that alkaline hydrolysis does not affect all pesticides. Captan is the exception, not the rule. For a listing of common pesticides and their susceptibility to alkaline hydrolysis, see
http://ecommons.library.cornell.edu/bitstream/1813/5149/1/FLS-118.pdf

So how do you bring down the pH of your spray water if it is high? Commercial people use buffering agents but that may be difficult for homeowners to find. Food grade citric acid can help. If you have a pH of 8.0, add 2 ounces of this citric acid per 100 gallons of water (1 and 1/4 teaspoons per 10 gallons) to bring the pH down to about 5.5. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Protecting New Vegetable Transplants from the Wind

tomato transplant protection
New transplants, even those hardened off in a cold frame, may need protection from strong winds when set out. Wooden shingles placed to block the wind used to be the standard recommendation but are now difficult to find. Try a plastic milk jug or a 2-liter soda bottle with both the bottom and top cut off. Push the jug or bottle into the soil
far enough so it won’t blow away. In windy conditions, it may need to be stabilized with a wooden dowel or metal rod. (Ward Upham)

Rabbits in the Garden

rabbit fencing
Rabbits in gardens are a perennial problem because of the wide variety of plants they can feed on. This time of year, they gravitate to young vegetables and flowers. But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers, and some peppers. The question is how do you protect other, more susceptible plants? Fencing provides a quick and effective control method. The fence does not need to be tall; 2 feet is sufficient for cottontails. But the mesh must be sufficiently fine (1 inch or less) so young rabbits will not be able to go through it. Support for the fence can be supplied by a number of products, but electric fence posts work well.

Often fencing is not an acceptable choice because it affects the attractiveness of the garden. Other ways to control rabbits including repellents, trapping and shooting. Repellents are often suggested for control but often do not last long and require frequent reapplication. Also, many are poisonous and cannot be used on plants or plant parts destined for human consumption. Live traps can be used to collect and move the rabbits to a rural area several miles from where they were trapped. A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap including a
tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together with a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.

Another possibility is to use a motion-activated sprinkler. These are attached to a garden hose and release a short burst of water when motion is detected. Contech, Orbit and Havahart are suppliers and each is advertised as protecting up to at least 1,000 square feet. Shooting is another possibility when it is safe and legal to do so. (Ward Upham)

Family Heritage Gardening

Iris
Thank you all for allowing me to be on hiatus for the last 6 months or so. I’ve been busy doing a little cultivating and growing of my own. On October 6, 2014 my husband, Russell, our son Henry, and I welcomed a new Boyer into our lives. Naming our little girl has been a joy-filled journey. It’s also been one of significant meaning for both
sides of our family as well as a nod to the passion I share with you monthly. Would you like to hear about our amble down the garden path of naming our child?

Everyone, by all accounts, loved my husband’s grandmother. He has fond memories of spending time with her as a young child before she lost her battle with lung cancer in 1990. She had a passion for gardening, which she loved to share with her family. In particular, she had an expansive iris collection, one that her children continue in her honor at their own homes. They made sure to collect rhizomes from her favorite varieties before the homestead was sold many years ago. She was also known for planting a tree for each of her grandchildren so that as they grew, their tree grew as well. My husband says that she and I would have gotten along famously and that if he ever had a little girl, she would share his grandmother’s name: Lola.

Our baby’s middle name is in honor of my grandfather. Yes, I said grandfather. It’s a good story, too. The 7th of 9 children, Grandpa was born on a cold February day in 1927 near Minco, Oklahoma. This was the eve of the Great Depression, a time when funds were often few and far between for many Americans. It was no different for the Kuhlman family, so when the time came for grandpa to be born, a midwife came to assist. My grandfather’s parents, humble German immigrants, couldn’t afford to pay this wonderful woman. A family friend and neighbor, the midwife was full of grace and kindness. Her response to their inability to pay her $3 delivery fee was “That’s okay. Just name the baby after me.” They promised to do so and when the baby came out a boy, they honored their commitment. His name is John Rose Kuhlman.

All three of these people have left legacies worthy of honor. Lola was a caretaker and an all around loving person. John is a man of strong faith whose calling card is a nod to his horticultural moniker. And Rose’s generosity is the stuff, well, legends are made of. I guarantee there were a lot of babies born near Minco with her name—we didn’t think her story should go quietly into the night. We chose to honor their lives and memories in the naming of our daughter.

Meet Lola Rose Boyer. She has quite the heritage surrounding her name. I plan to share my passion for gardening with her and hope that she finds as much delight in it as I do and her namesakes before me.

Have you gardened in honor of a family member? If, like Lola, you would like to have a collection of plants from the same genus who share cultivar names with your loved ones, consider iris, daylily, rose, daffodil, hibiscus, or mum. In fact, a search at http://allthingsplants.com for “Lola” revealed Iris ‘Lola’s Delight’ and Echeveria ‘Lola’ (a succulent sedum variety). A search for my own name revealed several cultivars of iris, daylily, mum and dahlia. If I remember correctly, the mums I bought two years ago were ‘Spicy Cheryl’. Heh heh. Food for thought anyway. I think it will be fun to hunt for cultivars containing “Lola” (and other family member names) as I shop for plants in the coming years.

How have you celebrated a loved one with gardening? Have you planted their favorite plants? Regularly chosen their favorite color? Looked for plants that share their name in the cultivar? Planted a tree for them? Whichever way you choose to honor your loved ones, do it with joy and please, share their legacy with others. (Cheryl Boyer)

Pests:
Sawfly Larvae on Ash

ash sawfly larvae
We had a report last week from one of our entomologists, Bob Bauernfeind, that a number of ash trees have ash sawfly larvae feeding on the leaves. We are now getting numerous reports from around the state of noticeable damage so be on the lookout. These sawfly larvae are a light green color with a broad, whitish stripe on the top side.
In the middle of the whitish stripe there appears to be a darker green stripe that is actually the digestive tract of the insect. Though sawfly larvae resemble caterpillars, they have at least six pairs of "stublike" prolegs behind the three pairs of true legs on their abdomen. (Caterpillars never have more than five pairs of prolegs.)

There are usually no detrimental effects to the health of the tree if nature is allowed to run its course. Even if all the leaves are eaten, it is early enough in the growing season for trees to put out a complete new set of leaves and still has enough time to make all the food reserves needed to survive the coming winter. However, if control is desired, a number of insecticides can be used for control including cyfluthrin (Bayer Lawn and Garden Multi-Insect Killer), malathion, esfenvalerate (Monterey Bug Buster II) and Sevin. An effective organic product is spinosad (Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew; Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray). Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are also effective because of the soft skin of sawfly larvae. (Ward Upham)

Elm Pocket Gall

Elm pocket gall
The Elm Pocket Gall is produced by small mites that belong to the genus Eriophyes. The green to reddish, elongated galls are produced on the upper surface of American elm leaves. Gall growth is perpindicular to the surface of the elm leaf.

Mites overwinter in bark crevices of the host as fertilized females. In the spring, females stimulate gall growth by injecting saliva into new elm leaves and mites move into galls through open pores on the underside of the leaf. Several generations are completed during the summer. The last generation of the year is produced when the leaf tissue hardens in the fall. Galls cause little damage to the host plant so control is rarely warranted. (Ward Upham)

Aphids

aphids
Aphids are small insects, about an eighth of an inch long. They are soft-bodied, pear-shaped and of many colors, such as green, black, gray, yellow or red. Some are winged during certain times of the year. Aphids feed by sucking sap from buds, leaves, twigs and developing fruit. Most of that sap is passed through their body and ejected through
two small “pipes” known as cornicles that project from the rear of their bodies. This ejected, sticky material is called honeydew. This honeydew often becomes black with sooty mold fungus. Automobiles parked under trees with large aphid populations will often be spotted with honeydew. Though the finish will not be harmed by the honeydew, it is a hassle to clean off.

Aphids usually are controlled effectively by nature. Adverse weather conditions such as beating rains and low temperatures, as well as fungus diseases, insect predators and parasites, keep the aphids in check. Aphid enemies include lady beetles, syrphid fly larvae, aphis lions and small wasp parasites known as braconids.

Most insecticide applications destroy beneficial insects as well as pests and leave trees or shrubs unprotected if pest resurgence occurs. Because beneficial insects play an important role in natural aphid control, try washing aphids away with a forceful stream of water (if practical) before using insecticide sprays.

If control measures are warranted, use insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, malathion, cyfluthrin or permethrin. Reapplication may be needed. Imidacloprid (Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control, 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect Control, Max Tree and Shrub Insect Control, Bonide Systemic Granules IC, Bayer Tree and Shrub Insect Control) is a systemic insecticide that can be used to prevent aphid populations from building but must by applied early to allow time for the pesticide to move to the new growth. This time period may vary from one week to three months
depending on the size of the plant with very large trees taking the most time. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Blackspot of Roses

Blackspot of roses
A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungus disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop.

The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (>85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F) and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water.

Cultural practices are the first line of defense.
1. Don't plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. For a list of blackspot resistant varieties, go to: http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/weeklypics/3-22-04.html
2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works well with roses.
3. Plant roses in sun in areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet.
4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum.

If needed, protect foliage with a regular spray program (10- to 14-day schedule) ) of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs), myclobutanil (Immunox, Immunox Plus), triticonazole (Ortho Rose & Flower Disease Control) and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Fungicide, Garden Disease Control, others). (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Cheryl Boyer, Nursery Specialist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

    RSS Feed

      Subscribe to the newsletter by entering your e-mail and clicking the link below

    Subscribe

    Archives

    January 2023
    December 2022
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    August 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    December 2021
    November 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014

    Categories

    All
    All America Selections
    All-America Selections
    Amaryllis
    Anthracnose
    Ants
    Aphids
    Apples
    Apricots
    Army-cutworm-moths
    Ash-borer
    Ashes-in-the-garden
    Asparagus
    Bacterial-wilt
    Bagworms
    Bark-shedding
    Beans
    Bermudagrass
    Bird-feeding
    Bitter-cucumber
    Blackberries
    Blackspot
    Black-walnuts
    Blister Beetles
    Blossom End Rot
    Blossom-End Rot
    Blueberries
    Botryosphaeria
    Breaking-dormancy-early
    Breaking-dormancy-early
    Bristly Rose Slug
    Broccoli
    Brownheaded-ash-sawfly
    Brown-patch-on-fescue
    Brown-rot-of-fruit
    Budworms
    Buffalograss
    Bulbs
    Bulb Storage
    Butterflies
    Butterfly Gardening
    Cabbage
    Cabbage Worms
    Caddo Sugar Maples
    Calcareous
    Cantaloupe
    Carpenter Bees
    Cauliflower
    Cedar Apple Rust
    Cherry Leaf Spot
    Chickweed
    Chiggers
    Christmas Cacti
    Christmas Trees
    Cicada
    Cicada Killer Wasps
    Codling Moth Control
    Cold Frames
    Cole Crops
    Colorado Potato Beetle
    Columnar Trees
    Compost
    Conservation Trees
    Container Gardening
    Controlling Volunteer Trees
    Cool Season Vegetables
    Cool-Season Vegetables
    Core Aeration
    Corn Earworm
    Corn Gluten Meal
    Crabapples
    Crabgrass Control
    Crickets
    Crop Rotation
    Cucumber
    Cucumber Beetles
    Daylilies
    Deadheading Flowers
    Dormant-seeding-turfgrass
    Dothistroma Needle Blight
    Drip-irrigation
    Dr-seuss-gardening
    Dutch-elm-disease
    Early Blight
    Eggplant
    Elm Flea Weevil
    Elm Leaf Beetle
    Elm Pocket Gall
    Emerald Ash Borer
    Euonymus Scale
    European Pine Sawfly
    Excessive Rain
    Fall Armyworms
    Fall Colors
    Fall Gardening
    Fall Lawn Seeding
    Fall-webworm
    Family-heritage-gardening
    Fertilizing-cole-crops
    Fertilizing-flowers
    Fertilizing Lawns
    Field-bindweed
    Field Dodder
    Firewood
    Flatid Planthoppers
    Flooding
    Floral Arrangement Care
    Flourescent Lights
    Flowerbed Design
    Flowering
    Frost On Lawns
    Fruit
    Fruit Baskets
    Fruit Damage From Cold
    Fruit Trees
    Fungus Gnats
    Galls
    Garden Hoses
    Gardening Calendar
    Garden Seed
    Garden Spiders
    Garden Tool Care
    Garlic
    Goldenrod Soldier Beetle
    Grapes
    Grasshoppers
    Grass Seed
    Green June Beetles
    Growing Cuttings Inside
    Grubs
    Hackberry Caterpillar Butterflies
    Hackberry Psyllids
    Hardiness
    Harlequin Bug
    Harvesting
    Help For New Gardeners
    Henbit
    Herbicide Damage
    High PH Soils
    Holly
    Hollyhock
    Honeysuckle
    Hornworms
    Horseradish
    Houseplants
    Hydrangea
    Ice Melters
    Invasive Plants
    Iris
    Iron Chlorosis
    Irrigation
    Itch Mites
    Japanese Beetles
    Junipers
    Kansas Garden Guide
    Kentucky Bluegrass
    Knotweed
    Lacebugs
    Ladybird Beetles
    Landscape Design
    Lawn
    Lawn Calendar For Cool Season Grass
    Lawn Calendar For Cool-Season Grass
    Lawn Calendar For Warm Season Grass
    Lawnmower Care
    Lawn Seeding
    Leaf Scorch
    Leaves
    Lettuce
    Lilac
    Lilac Borers
    Little Barley
    Marcescence
    Maximizing Garden Space
    Melons
    Millipedes
    Mimosa Webworm
    Mole Control
    Mouse Damage
    Mowing
    Mulch
    Mums
    Mushrooms
    Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot
    Nantucket Pine Tip Moth
    Native Prairie Flowers
    Needle Drop On Conifers
    New Gardener Resources
    Nightcrawlers
    Nuts
    Oak
    Oak Leaf Itch Mite
    Onions
    Orchids
    Organic Matter
    Organic Sources Of Nitrogen
    Ornamental Grass
    Overseeding Lawns
    Overwintering Geraniums
    Paperwhite Bulbs
    Pawpaw Trees
    Peaches
    Pears
    Peas
    Peonies
    Peony
    Peppers
    Perennial Garden Clean Up
    Perennial Garden Clean-up
    Pesticide Effectiveness
    Pine Wilt
    Planting Calendar
    Plastic Mulch
    Plum
    Poinsettia
    Poison Ivy
    Poisonous Plants
    Pokeweed
    Poor Drainage
    Potatoes
    Powdery Mildew
    Powdery Mildew On Lawn
    Power Raking
    Propagating-woody-plants
    Prop Up Fruit Limbs
    Pruning
    Publications
    Quince
    Rabbits
    Raccoons
    Rain-barrels
    Raspberries
    Recommended-plants-for-ks
    Rhubarb
    Roasting Pumpkin Seeds
    Roots
    Rose
    Rose Rosette
    Roundup For Lawns
    Salad Garden
    Sawfly Larvae
    Scale
    Scale Insects
    Screen Trees
    Sedum
    Seed Germination
    Seed Germination
    Seed Tape
    Septoria Leaf Spot
    Shrub Pruning
    Shrubs
    Sidedressing
    Slime Molds
    Slugs
    Smut
    Soil
    Soil Preparation
    Soil Temperature
    Spider Mites
    Spiders
    Spirea Aphid
    Spittlebugs
    Spray Water PH
    Spreaders
    Spring Bulbs
    Spring Flowering Shrubs
    Squash
    Squash Bugs
    Squash Vine Borer
    Squirrel Damage
    Starting Seed
    Stink Bugs
    Storing Power Equipment
    Storm Damage
    Stratification
    Straw-bale-gardening
    Strawberries
    Succession Planting Of Vegetables
    Sunflowers
    Sunscald
    Survey
    Sweet Corn
    Sweet Potatoes
    Tall Fescue
    Tan/White Drupelets
    Termites
    Thatch Control
    Ticks
    Tomatoes
    Transplant Fertilization
    Tree Health
    Tree Leaves And Turf
    Tree Planting
    Trees
    Tubakia
    Tubakia-leaf-spot
    Turf-in-shade
    Twig-girdlers
    Vegetable-flowersfruit
    Vegetables
    Vegetable Seed
    Vegetable Transplants
    Velvet Ants
    Vinegar As Herbicide
    Walnut Caterpillars
    Warm Fall
    Water Damage
    Watering
    Watermelon
    Water Teepees
    Weeds In Flower Beds
    Weeds In Turf
    Weird Squash
    White Grubs
    Whitelined-sphinx-caterpillar
    Wildflower Establishment
    Wildflower-establishment
    Wildlife
    Wild Violet Control
    Wind Chill
    Winter Damage
    Winterizing Water Lines
    Winter Mulching Vegetables
    Winter Squash
    Wood Chips
    Worms From Oaks
    Yellowjackets
    Yellow Nutsedge

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.