K-State Research and Extension Horticulture Newsletter
  • Newsletters
  • About
  • Contact
  • Pest of the Week

Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 34

8/23/2016

0 Comments

 

Turfgrass:
Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

Picture
​September is almost here and that means it is prime time to fertilize your tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass lawns. If you could only fertilize your cool-season grasses once per year, this would be the best time to do it.
        
These grasses are entering their fall growth cycle as days shorten and temperatures moderate (especially at night). Cool-season grasses naturally thicken up in the fall by tillering (forming new shoots at the base of existing plants) and, for bluegrass, spreading by underground stems called rhizomes. Consequently, September is the most important time to fertilize these grasses.
        
Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. The settings recommended on lawn fertilizer bags usually result in about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. We recommend a quick-release source of nitrogen at this time. Most fertilizers sold in garden centers and department stores contain either quick-release nitrogen or a mixture of quick- and slow-release. Usually only lawn fertilizers recommended for summer use contain slow-release nitrogen. Any of the others should be quick-release.
        
The second most important fertilization of cool-season grasses also occurs during the fall. A November fertilizer application will help the grass green up earlier next spring and provide the nutrients needed until summer. It also should be quick-release applied at the rate of 1-pound actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. (Ward Upham) 

Vegetables:
Common Smut on Sweet Corn

smut on sweet corn
​Smut (Ustilago maydis) is a fungal disease of corn that may infect leaves, stems, tassels or ears though infections on ears are the most obvious.  Immature galls are white and spongy but become brown with dark powdery spores with maturity.  Leaf galls remain small but those on the ears or stems can become rather large and will release large numbers of spores when they rupture. This disease is likely to be most severe on plants injured by hail, cultivation or insects and tends to be worse on soils that have had heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer or manure. Also anything that slows growth such as hot, dry weather or cool, wet weather when the plants are young can result in more infections.
        
Immature smut galls are considered an edible delicacy known as cuitlacoche in Mexico. They are a high value crop for some growers in the northeast U.S. who sell them to Mexican restaurants.
        
There is no chemical control for this disease. Crop rotation and a balanced fertilizer program can help minimize this disease. Remove and destroy galls from infected plants before they rupture. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Dividing Daylilies

Picture
Daylilies need to be divided every three to four years to maintain vigor. Though they may be divided in early spring before growth starts, it is more common to divide them at this time of year. Many gardeners cut back the tops to about half their original height to make plants easier to  handle.
        
Daylilies have a very tough root system that can make them difficult to divide while in place. Dividing in place is practical if it hasn’t been long since the last division. In such cases, a spading fork can be used to peel fans from the existing clump. If the plants have been in place longer and are well grown together, it is more practical to divide them after the entire clump has been dug.
        
Use a spade to lift the entire clump out of the ground. Although it is possible to cut the clump apart with a sharp spade, you'll save more roots by using two spading forks back-to-back to divide the clump into sections. Each section should be about the size of a head of cauliflower. An easier method involves using a stream of water from a garden hose to wash the soil from the clump, and then rolling the clump back and forth until the individual divisions separate. Space divisions 24 to 30 inches apart, and set each at its original depth. The number of flowers will be reduced the first year after division but will return to normal until the plants need to be
divided again. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Likely Too Late to Spray for Bagworms

bagworms
Bagworms can cause a great deal of damage during the last few weeks of feeding, and gardeners may be tempted to spray for them now. But late-August sprays are often totally ineffective because the insects have usually stopped feeding.  Never spray in August unless the insects are actively feeding.  Handpicking is still possible if there are not so many bags it becomes impractical. Understanding the life cycle of this moth will explain why spraying now is not recommended and help plan effective control measures.
        
In Kansas, bagworms normally finish feeding and close their bags during mid-August. After that, insecticides are ineffective because they cannot reach the pest.
        
Bagworms are unusual because they use an uncommon form of reproduction called paedogenesis in which the female larva reproduces. The female larva never pupates, but produces mature sexual organs during the last larval instar. She releases a sex hormone that attracts the male who does pupate and emerges as a flying moth. The male flies to the female's bag and mates with her while she remains in the bag. After mating, the female's body fills with eggs. She will eventually die inside the bag, and her body will become a dried, mummified egg case that will protect the eggs during the winter. Each female case normally contains 300 to 1,000 eggs. Egg hatch does not occur until the next spring, usually around the end of May in Kansas.
        
Insecticide sprays are more likely to be effective when the bagworms are small. Even Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel, Thuricide) can be effective on young bagworms. Another organic product, spinosad (Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew; Fertilome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray; Monterey Garden Insect Spray), is very effective against both young and more mature bagworms. Other commonly used pesticides include acephate, cyfluthrin, permethrin, malathion and Sevin.
        
During most years, spraying about June 15 will provide good control. Don't forget that insecticides are not the only means of control. Hand picking and destroying the bags is effective any time when the bags are large enough to be picked. (Ward Upham)

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on ash
With all the concern about Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), many people may assume that any ash tree with problems is being attacked by EAB. However, EAB has only been confirmed in Douglas, Jefferson, Johnson, Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties.  One of the other problems we see with ash is Mycosphaerella Leafspot. Though this disease looks serious, it is not.
 
Mycosphaerella leaf spot causes small, brown spots that enlarge to become blotches and may result in early leaf drop. Defoliation this late in the growing season will not hurt the health of the tree. Therefore, because this disease appears sporadically and tree health is not harmed, we do not recommend treatment. Furthermore, treatment would have to be preventative and applied before the disease had infected the leaves. Applying a fungicide now would have no effect. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Are Crabapples Safe to Eat?

crabapples
Crabapples are safe to consume as long as you don’t eat too many of them. Actually, the only difference between crabapples and apples is the size of the fruit. By definition, crabapples have fruit that are 2 inches or less in diameter, and apples are more than 2 inches in diameter. By this definition, most of the apples grown from seed will be crabapples. The fruiting apples are grafted.
        
So, did people ever plant crabapples from seed? Of course they did. Just think of Johnny Appleseed. But those apples were normally used for jelly, applesauce, and cider and not for fresh eating.
        
There is one other caveat with using crabapples from a tree in the landscape. Make sure the tree hasn't been sprayed as an ornamental with a pesticide that isn't labeled for fruit tree apples. If it has, then the fruit should not be used. (Ward Upham)
                                   
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 30

7/28/2015

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
When to Harvest Eggplants

Upcoming Events:

field day
Kansas Turf & Ornamentals Field Day
Thursday, August 6, 2015
K-State Research & Extension Center, Olathe

The field day program is designed for all segments of the turf industry - lawn care, athletic fields, golf courses, and grounds maintenance.  Included on the program are research presentations, problem diagnosis, commercial exhibitors, and equipment displays.  There will be time to see current research, talk to the experts and get answers to your questions.

Pesticide recertification credits in 3A and 3B are available, as well as GCSAA education points.

For more information and to register, go to:  https://www.eventbrite.com/e/kansas-turf-ornamentals-field-day-tickets-16109376579

Vegetables:
Common Smut on Sweet Corn

smut on sweet corn
Smut (Ustilago maydis) is a fungal disease of corn that may infect leaves, stems, tassels or ears though infections on ears are the most obvious. Immature galls are white and spongy but become brown with dark powdery spores with maturity. Leaf galls remain small but those on the ears or stems can become rather large and will release large numbers of spores when they rupture. This disease is likely to be most severe on plants injured by hail, cultivation or insects and tends to be worse on soils that have had heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer or manure. Also anything that slows growth such as hot, dry weather or cool, wet weather when the plants are young can result in more infections.

Immature smut galls are considered an edible delicacy known as cuitlacoche in Mexico. They are a high value crop for some growers in the northeast U.S. who sell them to Mexican restaurants. There is no chemical control for this disease. Crop rotation and a balanced fertilizer program can help minimize this disease. Remove and destroy galls from infected plants before they rupture.  (Ward Upham)

Blossom-End Rot

Blossom end rot
Though we normally see this condition most commonly on tomatoes as evidenced by a sunken, brown, leathery patch on the bottom of the fruit, we can also see it on summer squash. Not a disease, this condition is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. It is often assumed that this means there is a corresponding lack of calcium in the soil. This is not necessarily the case, especially in Kansas. Most Kansas soils have sufficient levels of calcium. So what causes blossom-end rot? Actually, there are a number of possible causes. Let's look at some of them.

- This year, inconsistent amounts of water may be a factor. This can be due to watering practices or may be due to heavy rains followed by dry periods. Try to keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Mulching can help by moderating moisture levels over time.

- Vegetable tops will sometimes outgrow the root system during cooler spring weather. This is especially true of tomatoes. As long as it is cool, the root system can keep up. When it turns hot and dry, the plant has a problem, and water —with the calcium it carries — goes to the leaves and the fruit is bypassed. The plant responds with new root growth and the condition corrects itself after a couple of weeks.

- Heavy fertilization, especially with ammonium forms of nitrogen, can encourage this condition.  Heavy fertilization encourages more top than root growth and the ammonium form of nitrogen competes with calcium for uptake.

- Anything that disturbs roots such as hoeing too deeply can encourage blossom-end rot.  Mulching helps because it keeps the soil surface cooler and therefore a better environment for root growth.

There are some years you do everything right and the condition still shows up due to the weather. In such cases, remember that blossom-end rot is a temporary condition, and plants should come out of it in a couple of weeks. You may want to pick off affected fruit to encourage new fruit formation.

Soils with adequate calcium will not benefit from adding additional calcium. If your soil is deficient in this nutrient, add 1 pound gypsum per 100 square feet. Gypsum is calcium sulfate and will not affect pH. Though calcium raises pH, sulfate lowers it and the two cancel each other out. Even if not needed, gypsum will not hurt anything.

We have also found that spraying plants with calcium doesn't work. The fruit's waxy surface doesn't allow absorption of the material and calcium does not move from the leaves to the fruit.  (Ward Upham)

How to Pick a Ripe Melon

Picture
Telling when a melon is ready to be harvested can be a challenge, or it may be quite easy. It all depends on the type of melon.

Let’s start with the easy one. Muskmelons are one of those crops that tell you when they are ready to be picked. This can help you not only harvest melons at the correct time but also choose good melons when shopping.

As a melon ripens, a layer of cells around the stem softens so the melon detaches easily from the vine. This is called “slipping” and will leave a dish-shaped scar at the point of stem attachment. When harvesting melons, put a little pressure where the vine attaches to the fruit. If ripe, it will release or “slip.”

When choosing a melon from those that have already been harvested, look for a clean, dish-shaped scar. Also, ripe melons have a pleasant, musky aroma if the melons are at room temperature (not refrigerated).

Watermelons can be more difficult and growers often use several techniques to tell when to harvest.

1. Look for the tendril that attaches at the same point as the melon to dry and turn brown. On some varieties this will need to be completely dried before the watermelon is ripe. On others it will only need to be in the process of turning brown.

2. The surface of a ripening melon develops a surface roughness (sometimes called “sugar bumps”) near the base of the fruit.   

3. Ripe watermelons normally develop a yellow color on the “ground spot” when ripe. This is the area of the melon that contacts the ground.

Honeydew melons are the most difficult to tell when they are ripe because they do not “slip” like muskmelons. Actually, there is one variety that does slip called Earlidew, but it is the exception to the rule. Ripe honeydew melons become soft on the flower end of the fruit. The “flower end” is the end opposite where the stem attaches. Also, honeydews should change to a light or yellowish color when ripe, but this varies with variety. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Peony "Measles"

red spots on peony leaf
The weather this summer has resulted in many peonies catching the "measles." This is a disease, also known as red spot, that causes distinct, reddish-purple spots on the upper leaf surfaces.  These spots often coalesce and become large, reddish purple blotches on the upper leaf surfaces but are a light brown color when viewed from the underside of the leaves. The spots on stems will merge and form streaks that are reddish brown.

Sanitation is the best control for this disease.  Remove all diseased tissue, including stems, at the end of the growing season. Mulch that contains plant debris should also be discarded and then replaced with fresh mulch. Reducing the source of the inoculum will reduce the chances of another severe outbreak next year. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Grasshoppers

Picture
We have received a number of calls on grasshoppers recently. Permethrin (numerous trade names) is a good choice for vegetable crops because it is labeled for a wide variety of vegetables. However, keep in mind that hoppers can reinfest an area relatively quickly. Many times gardeners have not had an insecticide failure, but a reinfestation. Carbaryl (Sevin) can also be used for grasshopper control but can lead to mite outbreaks as it is very toxic to mite predators.

We often have gardeners who are interested in organic controls. Nosema locustae, a protozoan, is the active ingredient in a number of products including Semaspore, NOLO Bait, HopperStopper and Grasshopper Attack. These products are selective and will affect only grasshoppers. This is a trait many gardeners find attractive. However, Nosema locustae products may not be as effective in garden situations as they would be under large-scale rangeland conditions due to potential reinfestations from outside the treated area. Also, these products have other potential disadvantages:- They are most effective against nymphal rather than adult grasshoppers. Also some grasshopper species are less susceptible than others.

- Kill can take 3 to 6 weeks after ingestion.

- These baits are perishable and should be kept refrigerated until use. Pay attention to the expiration date.

As mentioned above, reinfestations of uninfected grasshoppers can occur. These products are not effective against adults. Try to treat the nesting area when hoppers are small and populations are concentrated. Nosema locustae products are allowed in certified organic crop production.  Poultry including turkeys, guinea hens and chickens have also been used to help control grasshoppers.

Regardless of method used, the trick is to treat early before the population has matured. Young nymphal stages are much easier to control than adults and are also much less mobile. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Twig Dieback on Oak

twig dieback on oak
Recently we have seen twig dieback on pin and other oaks caused by a fungal disease called Botryosphaeria canker. Affected trees show wilting or “flagging” of terminal growth on the ends of branches. Dieback usually extends 4 to 6 inches down the twig with leaves bending back toward the twig before turning brown. Dead leaves remain attached to the tree. If you look closely at the twig, you should see a rather marked transition from healthy to diseased tissue. Take a knife and scrape away some of the outer bark tissue. Healthy tissue is light green. Diseased tissue tends to be brown to black.

Botryosphaeria canker differs from oak wilt in that only the tips of branches are affected. Oak wilt affects whole branches. This disease causes such minor damage that chemical control measures are unwarranted. Dead twigs on small trees may be pruned off if desired. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 33

8/19/2014

0 Comments

 

Video of the Week:
Grow Your Own Salad Mix

Turfgrass:
Overseeding a Lawn

Picture
Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings.

Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seed from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch.        

Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. A third option is to use a core aerator.

The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to insure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil. Fertilizer should then be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag.  (Ward Upham)

Fall Lawn Seeding Tips

Picture
The keys to successful lawn seeding are proper rates, even dispersal, good seed to soil contact, and proper watering. Evenness is best achieved by carefully calibrating the seeder or by adjusting the seeder to a low setting and making several passes to ensure even distribution. Seeding a little on the heavy side with close overlapping is better than missing areas altogether, especially for the bunch-type tall fescue, which does not spread.  Multiple seeder passes in opposite directions should help avoid this problem.

A more serious error in seeding is using the improper rate. For tall fescue, aim for 6 to 8 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet for new areas and about half as much for overseeding or seeding areas in the shade. Using too much seed results in a lawn more prone to disease and damage from stress. The best way to avoid such a mistake is to determine the square footage of the yard first, and then calculate the amount of seed. Using too little seed can also be detrimental and result in clumpy turf that is not as visually pleasing.

Establishing good seed to soil contact is essential for good germination rates. Slit seeders achieve good contact at the time of seeding by dropping seed directly behind the blade that slices a furrow into the soil. Packing wheels then follow to close the furrow. The same result can be accomplished by using a verticut before broadcasting the seed, and then verticutting a second time.

Core aerators can also be used to seed grass. Go over an area at least three times in different directions, and then broadcast the seed. Germination will occur in the aeration holes. Because those holes stay moister than a traditional seedbed, this method requires less watering.  If seeding worked soil, use light hand raking to mix the seed into the soil. A leaf rake often works better than a garden rake because it mixes seed more shallowly.

Water newly planted areas lightly, but often. Keep soil constantly moist but not waterlogged.  During hot days, a new lawn may need to be watered three times a day. If watered less, germination will be slowed. Cool, calm days may require watering only every couple of days. As the grass plants come up, gradually decrease watering to once a week if there is no rain. Let the plants tell you when to water. If you can push the blades down and they don't spring back up quickly, the lawn needs water. Once seed sprouts, try to minimize how much traffic (foot, mower, dog, etc.) seeded areas receive until the seedlings are a little more robust and ready to be mowed. Begin mowing once seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Dividing Daylilies

Picture
Daylilies need to be divided every three to four years to maintain vigor. Though they may be divided in early spring before growth starts, it is more common to divide them at this time of year. Many gardeners cut back the tops to about half their original height to make plants easier to handle.

Daylilies have a very tough root system that can make them difficult to divide while in place.   Dividing in place is practical if it hasn’t been long since the last division. In such cases, a spading fork can be used to peel fans from the existing clump. If the plants have been in place longer and are well grown together, it is more practical to divide them after the entire clump has been dug.

Use a spade to lift the entire clump out of the ground. Although it is possible to cut the clump apart with a sharp spade, you'll save more roots by using two spading forks back-to-back to divide the clump into sections. Each section should be about the size of a head of cauliflower. An easier method involves using a stream of water from a garden hose to wash the soil from the clump, and then rolling the clump back and forth until the individual divisions separate.

Space divisions 24 to 30 inches apart, and set each at its original depth. The number of flowers will be reduced the first year after division but will return to normal until the plants need to be divided again. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Pear Harvest

Picture
Pears should not be allowed to ripen on the tree.  They should be picked while still firm and ripened after harvest. Tree-ripened fruits are often of poor quality because of the development of grit cells and the browning and softening of the inner flesh. Commercial growers determine the best time to harvest pears by measuring the decrease in fruit firmness as the fruit matures. This varies with growing conditions and variety. A Magness meter is used for testing and measures the pressure needed to push a 5/16-inch tip a specified distance into an individual fruit. Home gardeners can use these other indicators:       

1. A change in the fruit ground color from a dark green to light green or yellowish green. The ground color is the "background" color of the fruit.

2. Fruit should part easily from the branch when it is lifted up and twisted.

3. Corking over of lenticels. Lenticels are the "breathing pores" of the fruit. They start out as a white to greenish white color and turn brown due to corking as the fruit nears maturity. They look like brown “specks” on the fruit.

4. Development of characteristic pear aroma and taste of sampled fruit.

Pears ripen in one to three weeks after harvest if held at 60 to 65 degrees F. They can then be canned or preserved. If you wish to store some for ripening later, fresh-picked fruit should be placed in cold storage at 29 to 31degrees F and 90 percent humidity. Ripen small amounts as needed by moving them to a warmer location and holding them at 60 to 65 degrees F. Storing at too high a temperature (75 degrees F and higher) will result in the fruit breaking down without
ripening. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Harvesting Winter Squash

Picture
Summer squash such as zucchini and scallop are harvested while immature but winter squash such as acorn, hubbard and butternut are harvested later, in the mature stage, after the rind is tough and seeds have developed. We normally think September is the time that winter squash are harvested.  Harvesting too early leads to fruit that shrivels and rots.

There are two main characteristics that help tell us when winter squash are mature: color and rind toughness.

Winter squash change color as they become mature. Butternut changes from light beige to deep tan. Acorn is a deep green color but has a ground spot that changes from yellow to orange when ripe. Gray or orange is the mature color for hubbard.

Hard, tough rinds is another characteristic of mature winter squash. This is easily checked by trying to puncture the rind with your thumbnail or fingernail. If it easily penetrates the skin, the squash is not yet mature and will lose water through the skin -- causing the fruit to dry and shrivel. Also, immature fruit will be of low quality. The stem should also be dry enough that excessive water doesn’t drip from the stem.

Winter squash should be stored cool with elevated humidity. Ideal conditions would be 55 to 60 degrees F and 50 to 70 percent relative humidity. Under such conditions, acorn squash will usually last about 5 to 8 weeks, butternuts 2 to 3 months and hubbards 5 to 6 months. (Ward Upham)

Common Smut on Sweet Corn

Picture
Smut (Ustilago maydis) is a fungal disease of corn that may infect leaves, stems, tassels or ears though infections on ears are the most obvious. Immature galls are white and spongy but become brown with dark powdery spores with maturity. Leaf galls remain small but those on the ears or stems can become rather large and will release large numbers of spores when they rupture. This disease is likely to be most severe on plants injured by hail, cultivation or insects and tends to be worse on soils that have had heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer or manure. Also anything that slows growth such as hot, dry weather or cool, wet weather when the plants are young can result in more infections.

Immature smut galls are considered an edible delicacy known as cuitlacoche in Mexico. They are a high value crop for some growers in the northeast U.S. who sell them to Mexican restaurants.

There is no chemical control for this disease. Crop rotation and a balanced fertilizer program can help minimize this disease. Remove and destroy galls from infected plants before they rupture. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Pokeweed

Picture
A number of people have asked the name of the weed with the large leaves and purple-black berries that hang in a cluster. This perennial is known as pokeweed. All parts of this plant are poisonous, especially the roots. Signs of poisoning include abdominal cramps, diarrhea, vomiting, weakness, drowsiness and difficulty in breathing. One of the toxins found in pokeweed is the protein lectin, which can cause abnormalities in white blood cells.

Surprisingly, young leafy springtime shoots are sometimes eaten after thorough cooking. Though cooking eliminates most of the toxins, there is still a danger of being poisoned from handling and preparing the shoots as well as ingesting improperly cooked plants.

Berries can be attractive to children. Cut down and discard pokeweed that might come into contact with kids. This plant is a perennial. You may want to spray it with a herbicide next year before it is large enough to be attractive to children. (Ward Upham)

Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate

0 Comments

    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

    RSS Feed

      Subscribe to the newsletter by entering your e-mail and clicking the link below

    Subscribe

    Archives

    January 2023
    December 2022
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    August 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    December 2021
    November 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014

    Categories

    All
    All America Selections
    All-America Selections
    Amaryllis
    Anthracnose
    Ants
    Aphids
    Apples
    Apricots
    Army-cutworm-moths
    Ash-borer
    Ashes-in-the-garden
    Asparagus
    Bacterial-wilt
    Bagworms
    Bark-shedding
    Beans
    Bermudagrass
    Bird-feeding
    Bitter-cucumber
    Blackberries
    Blackspot
    Black-walnuts
    Blister Beetles
    Blossom End Rot
    Blossom-End Rot
    Blueberries
    Botryosphaeria
    Breaking-dormancy-early
    Breaking-dormancy-early
    Bristly Rose Slug
    Broccoli
    Brownheaded-ash-sawfly
    Brown-patch-on-fescue
    Brown-rot-of-fruit
    Budworms
    Buffalograss
    Bulbs
    Bulb Storage
    Butterflies
    Butterfly Gardening
    Cabbage
    Cabbage Worms
    Caddo Sugar Maples
    Calcareous
    Cantaloupe
    Carpenter Bees
    Cauliflower
    Cedar Apple Rust
    Cherry Leaf Spot
    Chickweed
    Chiggers
    Christmas Cacti
    Christmas Trees
    Cicada
    Cicada Killer Wasps
    Codling Moth Control
    Cold Frames
    Cole Crops
    Colorado Potato Beetle
    Columnar Trees
    Compost
    Conservation Trees
    Container Gardening
    Controlling Volunteer Trees
    Cool Season Vegetables
    Cool-Season Vegetables
    Core Aeration
    Corn Earworm
    Corn Gluten Meal
    Crabapples
    Crabgrass Control
    Crickets
    Crop Rotation
    Cucumber
    Cucumber Beetles
    Daylilies
    Deadheading Flowers
    Dormant-seeding-turfgrass
    Dothistroma Needle Blight
    Drip-irrigation
    Dr-seuss-gardening
    Dutch-elm-disease
    Early Blight
    Eggplant
    Elm Flea Weevil
    Elm Leaf Beetle
    Elm Pocket Gall
    Emerald Ash Borer
    Euonymus Scale
    European Pine Sawfly
    Excessive Rain
    Fall Armyworms
    Fall Colors
    Fall Gardening
    Fall Lawn Seeding
    Fall-webworm
    Family-heritage-gardening
    Fertilizing-cole-crops
    Fertilizing-flowers
    Fertilizing Lawns
    Field-bindweed
    Field Dodder
    Firewood
    Flatid Planthoppers
    Flooding
    Floral Arrangement Care
    Flourescent Lights
    Flowerbed Design
    Flowering
    Frost On Lawns
    Fruit
    Fruit Baskets
    Fruit Damage From Cold
    Fruit Trees
    Fungus Gnats
    Galls
    Garden Hoses
    Gardening Calendar
    Garden Seed
    Garden Spiders
    Garden Tool Care
    Garlic
    Goldenrod Soldier Beetle
    Grapes
    Grasshoppers
    Grass Seed
    Green June Beetles
    Growing Cuttings Inside
    Grubs
    Hackberry Caterpillar Butterflies
    Hackberry Psyllids
    Hardiness
    Harlequin Bug
    Harvesting
    Help For New Gardeners
    Henbit
    Herbicide Damage
    High PH Soils
    Holly
    Hollyhock
    Honeysuckle
    Hornworms
    Horseradish
    Houseplants
    Hydrangea
    Ice Melters
    Invasive Plants
    Iris
    Iron Chlorosis
    Irrigation
    Itch Mites
    Japanese Beetles
    Junipers
    Kansas Garden Guide
    Kentucky Bluegrass
    Knotweed
    Lacebugs
    Ladybird Beetles
    Landscape Design
    Lawn
    Lawn Calendar For Cool Season Grass
    Lawn Calendar For Cool-Season Grass
    Lawn Calendar For Warm Season Grass
    Lawnmower Care
    Lawn Seeding
    Leaf Scorch
    Leaves
    Lettuce
    Lilac
    Lilac Borers
    Little Barley
    Marcescence
    Maximizing Garden Space
    Melons
    Millipedes
    Mimosa Webworm
    Mole Control
    Mouse Damage
    Mowing
    Mulch
    Mums
    Mushrooms
    Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot
    Nantucket Pine Tip Moth
    Native Prairie Flowers
    Needle Drop On Conifers
    New Gardener Resources
    Nightcrawlers
    Nuts
    Oak
    Oak Leaf Itch Mite
    Onions
    Orchids
    Organic Matter
    Organic Sources Of Nitrogen
    Ornamental Grass
    Overseeding Lawns
    Overwintering Geraniums
    Paperwhite Bulbs
    Pawpaw Trees
    Peaches
    Pears
    Peas
    Peonies
    Peony
    Peppers
    Perennial Garden Clean Up
    Perennial Garden Clean-up
    Pesticide Effectiveness
    Pine Wilt
    Planting Calendar
    Plastic Mulch
    Plum
    Poinsettia
    Poison Ivy
    Poisonous Plants
    Pokeweed
    Poor Drainage
    Potatoes
    Powdery Mildew
    Powdery Mildew On Lawn
    Power Raking
    Propagating-woody-plants
    Prop Up Fruit Limbs
    Pruning
    Publications
    Quince
    Rabbits
    Raccoons
    Rain-barrels
    Raspberries
    Recommended-plants-for-ks
    Rhubarb
    Roasting Pumpkin Seeds
    Roots
    Rose
    Rose Rosette
    Roundup For Lawns
    Salad Garden
    Sawfly Larvae
    Scale
    Scale Insects
    Screen Trees
    Sedum
    Seed Germination
    Seed Germination
    Seed Tape
    Septoria Leaf Spot
    Shrub Pruning
    Shrubs
    Sidedressing
    Slime Molds
    Slugs
    Smut
    Soil
    Soil Preparation
    Soil Temperature
    Spider Mites
    Spiders
    Spirea Aphid
    Spittlebugs
    Spray Water PH
    Spreaders
    Spring Bulbs
    Spring Flowering Shrubs
    Squash
    Squash Bugs
    Squash Vine Borer
    Squirrel Damage
    Starting Seed
    Stink Bugs
    Storing Power Equipment
    Storm Damage
    Stratification
    Straw-bale-gardening
    Strawberries
    Succession Planting Of Vegetables
    Sunflowers
    Sunscald
    Survey
    Sweet Corn
    Sweet Potatoes
    Tall Fescue
    Tan/White Drupelets
    Termites
    Thatch Control
    Ticks
    Tomatoes
    Transplant Fertilization
    Tree Health
    Tree Leaves And Turf
    Tree Planting
    Trees
    Tubakia
    Tubakia-leaf-spot
    Turf-in-shade
    Twig-girdlers
    Vegetable-flowersfruit
    Vegetables
    Vegetable Seed
    Vegetable Transplants
    Velvet Ants
    Vinegar As Herbicide
    Walnut Caterpillars
    Warm Fall
    Water Damage
    Watering
    Watermelon
    Water Teepees
    Weeds In Flower Beds
    Weeds In Turf
    Weird Squash
    White Grubs
    Whitelined-sphinx-caterpillar
    Wildflower Establishment
    Wildflower-establishment
    Wildlife
    Wild Violet Control
    Wind Chill
    Winter Damage
    Winterizing Water Lines
    Winter Mulching Vegetables
    Winter Squash
    Wood Chips
    Worms From Oaks
    Yellowjackets
    Yellow Nutsedge

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.