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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 43

10/28/2014

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Video of the Week:
Will Fall Mums Last Through the Winter?

Turfgrass:
Apply Late-Season Nitrogen Application in November

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November is the time to give cool-season lawns the last nitrogen application of the season. Why November? Because while top growth slows in response to cool temperatures, grass plants are still making food (carbohydrates) by photosynthesis. A November nitrogen application helps boost the photosynthesis rate. Carbohydrates that are not used in growth are stored in the crown and other storage tissues in the plant. These carbohydrate reserves help the turfgrass green up earlier in the spring and sustain growth into May without the need for early-spring (March or April) nitrogen. Those early-spring nitrogen applications are less desirable because they can lead to excessive shoot growth and reduced root growth. Other benefits of November-applied nitrogen for cool-season grasses include improved winter hardiness, root growth and shoot density. 

How much should you apply? One to 1 to 1 ½ pounds actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn area is sufficient. In order for this application to be effective, the nitrogen must be readily available to the plant, because the growing season is nearly over. Therefore, for a November application, use a soluble (quickly-available) nitrogen carrier such as urea or ammonium sulfate. Many turfgrass fertilizers sold in garden centers and other retail outlets also contain soluble nitrogen. Avoid products that contain water-insoluble nitrogen (slow-release) for this application. As always, sweep up any fertilizer that gets on driveways, sidewalks, or streets and reapply it to the lawn. (Ward Upham)

Tucking your Lawnmower in for the Winter

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If you are done mowing for the year, be sure to service your mower before putting it away. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals, which usually corrode during the season. A wire-bristle brush is a good tool for doing this. The battery can then be removed or connected to a battery monitor that will keep it charged over winter. If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected location for the winter (a cool basement works best).

Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring.  Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:

        * Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
        * Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
        * Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
        * If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
        * Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
        * Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
        * Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.

Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
There is Still Time to Plant Spring-Flowering Bulbs

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Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs (especially daffodils) in October to give them enough time to root before winter. But it is certainly not too late to plant them now. As long as the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs should continue root development. You can find the previous week’s soil temperature readings for areas across the state from our Weather Data Library at http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/wdl/Text%20files/text/REPORT.TXT

Although many of the best bulbs have probably already been purchased, garden centers may still have a good selection. Be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout. While many bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, none can tolerate poorly drained soil. Prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix into the soil.

Adequate fertility is essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been fertilized regularly in the past may have excess levels of phosphorus. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the uptake of other essential micronutrients. In such cases, it would be better to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 2/3 pound per 100 square feet.  Organic sources of fertilizers low in phosphorus include blood meal (12-0-0) applied at 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, cottonseed meal (6-0.4-1.5) applied at the rate of 10 pounds per 100 square feet and soybean meal (7-2-1) applied at the rate of 8 pounds per 100 square feet.

In the absence of a soil test, or if phosphorus is needed, add a low analysis, balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of bed. Mix all amendments thoroughly with the soil before planting the bulbs.

The size and species of the bulb determines how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the bulb should be about 2 to 3 times the size of the bulb, but check the planting instructions specific to each particular flower. (Ward Upham)

Perennial Garden Clean-up

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Fall is traditionally a time for cleaning up gardens.  Normally, we recommend clear-cutting dead stems to help control insect and disease problems. With herbaceous perennials that have been pest free, you might want to consider leaving some to provide structure, form, and color to the winter garden. For example, ornamental grasses can be attractive even during the winter months. But those near structures should be cut to the ground because they can be a fire hazard. Perennials with evergreen or semi-evergreen foliage can provide color. Of course, some perennials are naturally messy after dormancy and should be cut back in the fall.

Foliage can be left for other reasons. For example, foliage left on marginally hardy plants such as tender ferns helps ensure overwintering of plant crowns. Also, seed heads on some perennial plants can provide seed for birds. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Millipede Invasion

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Millipedes, or "thousand-legged worms," are an arthropod relative of insects. They can be distinguished from centipedes by the number of legs per body segment. Millipedes have four legs per segment, while centipedes have only two. Also, the millipedes’ legs are quite short and often are not seen if viewing the millipede from above. Though usually found in damp locations outside, they can become a problem inside the house and cause homeowners a great deal of concern.

Household invasions are often sudden and sporadic and may be in response to rain. Millipedes feed primarily on decaying organic material, rarely on living tissue. They do not bite people or damage household furnishings directly, but they will leave a mess and give off an odor if crushed.

Millipedes are worm-like and most often brownish-black in color. The legs ripple as they move.  Millipedes often curl up into a "C" shape like a watch spring if touched. Remember you may not see the legs unless viewing the millipede from the side. They defend themselves by releasing a disagreeable odor when disturbed.

Millipedes require high moisture to survive and often die in a day or two after entering a house. Dead millipede bodies can then be vacuumed up and disposed of. Drying out moist areas inside will also help with control. Sealing and caulking around openings in the foundation will help keep populations low. If this is not enough, spraying cyfluthrin (Home Pest Control Indoor & Outdoor Insect Killer), proxopur (Baygon), or resmethrin in a three-foot band around the outside of the house will take care of them before they get inside. (Ward Upham)

Hackberry Psyllids Flying Around Homes

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The hackberry psyllid causes “bumps” to form on the underside of hackberry leaves early in the season. The bumps are actually caused by nymphs that hatch from eggs laid by females as leaves start to unfurl in the spring.  This abnormal growth is caused by the feeding of the nymphs. This condition is extremely common to the point it can almost be used as an identifying characteristic for hackberry. Fortunately, this does not harm the hackberry.

The hackberry psyllid overwinters in the adult stage. These insects are tiny and resemble miniature cicadas. They are dark reddish-brown with mottled wings. Adults are tiny enough that they can crawl through the openings in most screens and therefore often find shelter during the winter inside houses. In the spring, the adults become active about the time the leaf buds of hackberry trees open. The best way to control hackberry psyllids found inside the home is the same as for boxelder bugs: a vacuum cleaner.

Several steps can be taken during the fall just before frost to reduce entry. Turning off outdoor night-lights and reducing the amount of light shining through night windows helps. Consider using fine mesh (18 mesh) screens on windows that are kept open. Ordinary screens are 12 mesh to the inch. Caulk or plug up cracks and crevices. Keep windows and doors closed when psyllids are active. For temporary reduction, spray exterior surfaces such as window screens, shutters and sides of buildings where psyllids are resting. Look for residual insect sprays labeled to use on outdoor surfaces. Examples of ingredients with residual action include cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray), bifenthrin (Talstar, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II), permethrin (numerous trade names), Baygon and tralomethrin. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Preserving Garden Tools

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Hoes, shovels and other common garden tools often have wooden handles that can deteriorate over time. Storing tools in a protected location can slow that process, but normal use will still expose the tools to the elements. The end of the season is a good time to clean up and protect the handles so they will last for many years. Weathering can raise the grain of wood, resulting in splinters. A light sanding can smooth the handle. Follow that with a light application of wood preservative, linseed oil or polyurethane to protect the wood. Wipe off any excess after a few minutes as oil-based products can attract dirt. Cleaning any dirt off metal parts and coating with a light application of oil can prevent rust. Good tools are expensive. A few minutes of care after the season is over can help preserve them for many years to come. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 42

10/21/2014

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Video of the Week:
Storing Tender Bulbs for the Winter

Turfgrass:
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October - Early November

broadleaf weeds henbit and chickweed
Late October to early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October. These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba. Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots. Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up.

Choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow or stop this process. Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above, plus carfentrazone. It will
give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures approach 50 degrees. (Ward Upham)

Tree Leaves and Turf

leaves on turf
It's that time of year again. Leaves are rapidly falling from deciduous trees so it's a good time to stop and think about options for handling the litter. Although a scattering of leaves won’t harm the lawn, excessive cover prevents sunlight from reaching turfgrass plants.

Turf left in this state for an extended period will be unable to make the carbohydrates needed to carry it through the winter.

There are options for dealing with the fallen leaves other than bagging them up and putting them out for the trash collector. Composting is a great way to handle the refuse. Compost can then be used in the vegetable garden and flowerbeds. If you do not compost, you can mow leaves with a mulching mower and let shredded leaves filter into the turf canopy. (A side-discharge mower also will work, but it won't shred the leaves as thoroughly.) This method will be most effective if you do it often enough that leaf litter doesn’t become too thick. Mow while you can still see grass peeking through the leaves.

You may wonder whether this practice will be detrimental to the lawn in the long run. Research at Michigan State University in which they used a mulching mower to shred up to about one pound of leaves per square yard
of lawn (one pound is equal to approximately 6 inches of leaves piled on the grass) for five consecutive years, found no long-term effects of the shredded leaves on turf quality, thatch thickness, organic content of the thatch, or soil test results (pH, nutrients, etc.). If you mow leaves and have a cool-season lawn, it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall (things you should be doing anyway). If you have a warm-season lawn, you can still use this technique but wait to fertilize and core-aerate until next late
May or early June. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Hardiness of Cool-Season Vegetables

spinach
Cool-season vegetables vary in cold tolerance, with some able to take colder temperatures than others.
Semi-hardy crops can take a light frost but are damaged by temperatures in the mid- to upper-20s. Examples include beets, Chinese cabbage, collards, Irish potatoes, Bibb lettuce, mustard, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, and leaf lettuce. Covering these plants when cold weather threatens can help extend the harvest season.

Plants termed “hardy” can take lower temperatures but are damaged when the temperature drops to the low 20s. These include cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, and kale.

Certain root crops can essentially be stored outside even after the leaves have been damaged or killed by frost. Beets, carrots, potatoes and turnips can be mulched and harvested as needed until the soil starts to freeze in late November to December.Growing vegetables in Kansas can be a challenge, but we have an extremely long gardening season. We can harvest from early April (asparagus) to early December. Winter is a good time to plan and prepare for next year’s crops. (Ward Upham)

Winter Mulching of Vegetables

parsnips
We can extend the harvest season of some root crops such as beets, carrots, parsnips, and turnips by mulching to slow down soil freezing. Mulching allows harvest to continue much later than usual (usually mid- to late-December) when even mulched areas freeze hard.

Rhubarb is a shallow-rooted perennial crop that can also benefit from mulching to help stabilize soil temperatures. Plants that are not mulched may be heaved out of the ground by alternate freezing and thawing through the winter. Mulching moderates these temperature shifts and helps protect the plant. Mulch should be removed by mid-March so soil warming can encourage early emergence. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
What is the "Wild" Shrub with the Bright Red Berries

honeysuckle red berries
People in the eastern half of the state have been reporting shrubs with bright red berries growing wild. The berries are clustered around the stem and the leaves are still a bright green color. These are likely one of two species of bush honeysuckle, Amur or Tatarian. Each species can reach 6 to 20 feet tall.

This landscape shrub has become a serious understory invasive throughout the Midwest from eastern Kansas to Ohio. Many states have it on their noxious weeds list. All of our native honeysuckles are vines, similar to the vining Japanese honeysuckle. Amur and Tatarian honeysuckles are very noticeable in the spring as they put out leaves much earlier than most other trees and shrubs. Leaves also stay green much later into the fall. This long growing season gives it a competitive advantage over other native species, and the vigorous growth can take over a woodland understory, reducing the number of native woodland wildflowers and other shrubs. If you want to promote native species on your property, then controlling bush honeysuckles is needed. Honeysuckle seedlings can be readily hand pulled when the soil is damp. Chemical control is needed for larger infestations, as cutting alone results in vigorous resprouting. Foliar applications of glyphosate (i.e., Roundup) in late summer and fall works well as does applications of Crossbow (2,4-D + triclopyr). Treating cut stumps with Tordon RTU (picloram), or concentrated (20% - 50%) glyphosate is also quite effective. Several studies have shown basal spraying with triclopyr (Garlon) not to be effective, while basal applications with 2,4-D or picloram products work well, using an oil carrier to penetrate the bark. Please follow all label instructions when using pesticides. (Charlie Barden and Ward Upham)

My Oaks are Raining Worms

oak leaf marginal gall
Areas near Wichita, Kansas are receiving calls regarding tiny, white worms falling from pin oak trees. These worms are actually the larvae of the oak vein gall midge. A midge is a very small fly and therefore the larvae are maggots.
The larvae came from the vein galls that are on the pin oak leaves. Newly hatched larvae feed on the veins of
young leaves in the spring and cause a swelling and flattening of the veins. These maggots are now
dropping to the ground in order to pupate. Adults emerge early the next spring to start the cycle all over again. The midges apparently cause no damage. (Ward Upham)

Drip Irrigation for Community Gardens Publication Available

drip irrigation
A new publication that covers using drip irrigation for community gardens is now available. The publications covers low-pressure and high-pressure drip systems, water source and filtration, installation and monitoring soil moisture. You can find it at: http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/MF3124.pdf



Contributors: Charles Barden, Extension Forester; Ward Upham, Extension Associate
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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 41

10/14/2014

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Video of the Week:
How to Stake a Tree

Upcoming Events:
Kansas Turfgrass Conference

The 64th Annual Kansas Turfgrass Conference will be held December 2, 3 & 4 at the Kansas Expocentre in Topeka. The conference is an excellent way to learn about turf and landscape management, visit with old friends, network with new ones, and see all the latest and greatest equipment and supplies from local and national vendors.

The conference has been approved for Commercial pesticide recertification hours:
    1 Core hour
    3A - 7 hours
    3B - 10 hours

International Society of Arboriculture CEUS and GCSAA education points will also be available by attending the conference.

For a copy of the program and to register online, go to https://turfconference.eventbrite.com

Turfgrass:
Why Late Lawn Seedings Often Fail

grass seedlings
We normally recommend that Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue be seeded in September but no later than October 15. Though plantings later than October 15 can be successful, the odds of success diminish as time passes.

The problem with late plantings is not that the seed will not come up or that young grass plants are sensitive to cold. Most often, the problem is with rooting. Unless the young grass plants have a fairly extensive root system, the freezing and thawing that takes place during winter heaves plants out of the ground, and they dry out and die.

Regardless of when planted, be sure the new lawn is kept watered through the fall. More mature lawns will need less frequent watering but all should go into the winter with moist soil. (Ward Upham)

Frost on Lawns

frost on lawns
If you have ever walked across a frosted lawn that isn't dormant, you may have noticed your footprints showing up later in the day. Though this is unsightly, it does not kill the turf. Grass blades are damaged but the crown is not. Actively growing turf will often recover after two to four mowings. Damage that occurs this late in the fall will continue to show damage until it is masked by the rest of the lawn turning brown due to cold weather. It is believed that the damage is caused by ice crystals killing plant cells when they are forced into the leaf by the weight of a wheel or foot. Remember to avoid damage by staying off of frosted turf. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Winter Storage of Summer Bulbs

frost damaged canna plants
As winter approaches, we need to start thinking about storage of the bulbs that will not survive Kansas winters. The bulbs of gladiolus, caladium, dahlia, tuberous begonia, calla lily, and canna lily need to be dug and stored so they can be planted next year. Actually, the storage organ of the above plants is not a true bulb. Canna and calla lilies are rhizomes, caladium and tuberous begonias are tubers, gladiolus is a corm, and dahlia is a tuberous rooted plant. All of these plants should be dug after frost has browned the foliage. Then, allow them to dry for about a week in a shady, well-ventilated site such as a garage or tool shed. Remove any excess soil and pack them in peat moss, vermiculite, or perlite. Make sure the bulbs don't touch so that if one decays, the rot doesn't spread. Dusting them with a fungicide before storage will help prevent them from rotting.

Caladium should be stored between 50 and 60 degrees F. The other bulbs mentioned should be stored near 40 degrees F. Finding a good spot to store the bulbs may be difficult. Some people place them against a basement wall farthest from the furnace and insulate them so the wall keeps them cool (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Amending Soils with Sand

small concrete mixer
Sand is sometimes suggested as an amendment material for clay soils. However, there is good reason to be cautious about using sand. In order for sand to be effective in breaking up a clay soil, sand grains must touch one another so there are pore spaces between grains that can hold air and/or water. If the grains do not touch, the clay fills in all the voids between the sand particles, leaving no room for pores.

This is the same principle used to make concrete and the result is somewhat the same. You end up making a bad situation worse. So how much sand does it take for it to be effective? Normally, we consider about 80 percent sand to be sufficient. In most cases this makes the use of sand impractical. The addition of organic matter is a much better choice. (Ward Upham)

Work Garden Soils in the Fall

tilling soil
Fall is the preferred time to prepare garden soil for next spring's vegetable garden. Spring is often wet, making it difficult to work soil without forming clods that remain the rest of the season. Fall usually is drier, allowing more time to work the soil when it is at the correct soil moisture content. Even if you work soil wet in the fall and form clods, the freezing and thawing that takes place in the winter will break them down, leaving a mellow soil the following spring.

Insects often hide in garden debris. If that debris is worked into the soil, insects will be less likely to survive the winter. Diseases are also less likely to overwinter if old plants are worked under. Also, garden debris will increase the organic matter content of the soil. Working the debris into the soil is easier if you mow the old vegetable plants several times to reduce the size of the debris.

Fall is an excellent time to add organic matter. Not only are organic materials usually more available in the fall (leaves, rotten hay or silage, grass clippings) but fresher materials can be added int he fall than in the spring because there is more time for them to break down before planting. As a general rule, add 2 inches of organic material to the surface of the soil and till it in. Be careful not to over till. You should end up with particles the size of grape nuts or larger. If you work garden soil into the consistency of flour, you have destroyed the soil structure. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 40

10/7/2014

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Video of the Week:
Overwintering Geraniums

Vegetables:
Last Tomatoes of the Season

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Cold nights are increasing in frequency now that we are into October. If you have tomatoes, you may have some that are approaching maturity. Leave them on the vine until mature or until a frost is forecast. Tomatoes will ripen off the vine but must have reached a certain phase of maturity called the 'mature green stage.' Look for full-sized tomatoes with a white, star-shaped zone on the bottom end of the green fruit.

When harvesting fruit before a frost, separate tomatoes into three groups for storage: those that are mostly red, those that are just starting to turn, and those that are still green. Discard tomatoes with defects such as rots of breaks in the skin. Place the tomatoes on cardboard trays or cartons but use layers of newspaper to separate fruit if stacked. Occasionally a tomato may start to rot and leak juice. The newspaper will keep the juice from contacting nearby or underlying fruit. Store groups of tomatoes at close to 55 degrees as possible until needed. (Ward Upham)

Fall Planting of Asparagus and Rhubarb

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We sometimes receive questions as to whether asparagus or rhubarb can be moved in the fall. Though these crops are traditionally transplanted in the spring (mid-March to mid-April), a fall move can be successful. Wait until the top has been browned by frost and then cut back to the ground.

Prepare the soil and fertilize as you would in the spring. See the publication here for more detail on asparagus and here for more information on rhubarb.

Peppers from the Garden

green bell pepper plant
Peppers are able to be stored fresh much longer than tomatoes. They can usually keep in a crisper drawer of a refrigerator for several weeks if kept moist but not wet. For longer storage, freezing works well. Though mushy when thawed, the flavor still comes through in cooked foods. Try dicing them into small pieces and then freezing on a cookie sheet. The frozen pieces can then be poured into a plastic bag for later use. 

Measuring is much easier as the pieces are not frozen together in a clump. This method works equally well for hot peppers. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Reproducing Apple Trees

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Every so often we receive a question about how to make apple seeds germinate. Often, the person is looking for a way to reproduce an apple tree that is dying. Unfortunately, apple trees do not come true from seed. In other words, the apple seed produces trees that differ from the parent. About 1 in every 80,000 apple seedlings will produce commercial quality fruit.

So, how do you reproduce an apple that is like the parent? The most common way is by grafting. Grafting is a procedure that joins two plants together. The upper part (on scion) becomes the top part of the tree, while the lower part (or stock) provides the root system of part of the trunk. Apples are relatively easy to graft. How to graft is beyond the scope of this newsletter, but local libraries should have materials that cover the procedure, or you can find an excellent publication on the web here. (Ward Upham).

Ornamentals:
Fall Colors of Trees

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Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.

Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthrocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.

If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring is also influenced by the weather.

Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.

Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.

The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes. (Ward Upham)

Fall Shrub Pruning

Picture

What is it about fall that makes folks think about pruning? Does it just seem like the time of year to prune? Are you cleaning up sticks and broken tree limbs and figure, "why not?" Is it the nice weather? I know... your neighbor is doing it so you should be doing it too. That's it!

Honestly, I say the best time to prune is when you're ready to. Otherwise it gets put on the backburner and pretty soon you can't see out the windows of your house because the shrubs figuratively ate them.

Having said that, if you care about whether or not your flowering shrubs will bloom the next season (and the health of the platns), then there are a few other things to think about. Namely, what type of wood does your shrub bloom on? There are two answers to that query: new wood or old wood.

Plants that bloom on new wood can be pruned anytime. Their floral buds are set on fresh growth so pruning may help manage the size of the plant, but won't greatly inhibit the flower display. A great example of this is purple beautyberry (Callicarpa dichotoma). Left to its own devices, it will easily grow 8 to 10 feet tall. But with regular pruning (maybe even twice a year), it will stay less than 3 feet tall and still have a beautiful flower and berry display in the fall. Examples of plants that bloom on new wood include shrub roses, butterfly bush, and rose-of-sharon.

The other option is plants that grow on old wood. I learned this lesson the hard way after planting dwarf oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia 'Munchkin') and Judd viburnums (Viburnum x juddii) in my landscape a few years ago... before I knew much about critters, specifically rabbits, and their destructive habits. There I was, enjoying my newly planted beds from the kitchen window on a February morning when I noticed that ALL of my plants had been pruned off, leaving only sharp stubs of branches. I was angry, frustrated, and really sad that my plants may or may not survive. I was fortunate, all but one viburnum survived. However, they only put on vegetative growth that year, not a single flower. Bummer!

My solution to the rabbits was to make wire cages for each of my plants (I have a small hard - it was doable). Again, and quite unfortunately for the viburnums, I was a little late to the game. I managed to save the hydrangea blooms and had a beautiful display this year, but I didn't beat the rabbits to the viburnum and I only had one single, solitary inflorescence out of 10 plants this spring. I  vow to get my plants protected earlier this year.

My point, however, is that to preserve the harvest (so to speak) you've got to know your plants and how they grow. If it's on old wood, wait until after the floral display to prune and then let them grow and set new floral buds the rest of the year. Other plants in this category: lilac, forsythia, flowering quince, mockorange, and spirea.

If you're not too worried about getting a floral show within the next year, go ahead and prune when you've got time. Especially if they are overgrown. A good rejuvenation pruning for shrubs can often do wonders in the landscape.

All of this advice applies to deciduous shrubs. Evergreen shrubs and trees are a whole different ballgame. If you're interested in learning more about that type of pruning, check out your local Extension resources or our K-State Horticulture Information Center website.

It's worth noting that, while lots of folks are thinking about pruning now, it may not be the best time for many shrubs. I've read several predictions that we might have a nice long fall (Yay!) and if that's the case, newly pruned shrubs may put on a flush of growth that won't have time to harden off before winter strikes (and this one may be a doozy). The best way to avoid this kind of damage is to just wait until late winter or early spring to do your pruning. Ahh! - a good reason to procrastinate. (Cheryl Boyer)

Contributors: Cheryl Boyer, Nursery Crops Specialist; Ward Upham, Extension Associate.
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    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

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