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Horticulture Newsletter 2017, No. 5

1/31/2017

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Video of the Week:
Tips for Growing Blueberries​

Vegetables:
The Difference Among Determinate, Semi-Determinate, and Indeterminate Tomatoes

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Tomatoes are often classified as determinate, semi-determinate or indeterminate. Determinate plants produce one large crop and then virtually nothing thereafter. They are favored by commercial growers that want to harvest most of the fruit from one picking.  They then use succession planting where a new crop is planted on a set schedule to have fruit production throughout the season. Mature plants are smaller than other types and can be planted closer together to get the most tomatoes from a set space. Primo Red is a variety that is strongly determinate.
 
Indeterminate plants are the traditional tomatoes that never stop growing. They are capable of producing fruit throughout the season unless disease stops production or until frost kills the plant. They do best with support as they can reach six feet tall when staked or caged.
 
Semi-determinate plants are more compact than inderminate types but are also capable of producing fruit throughout the season.
 
Most of the varieties available to home gardeners are either indeterminate or semi-determinate. Though both are capable of producing fruit throughout the season, our hot Kansas summers often cause a dry spell in production of both types. Tomatoes are less likely to set fruit when night temperatures remain above 75 degrees and day temperatures are above 95.  Hot, dry winds make the situation worse.
 
Gardeners with limited space will likely prefer indeterminate or semi-determinate types to stretch out the harvest season.  If there is space, you may want to grow a combination of all three with the determinates used to produce a large harvest for canning or tomato juice and the remainder for fresh eating.  (Ward Upham)

More Tomato Trial Information

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Last week we looked at tomato ratings from a trial done in Missouri with data from 2015 and 2016.  This week we look at ratings done across Kansas during 2016 but from four separate sites. We looked at 10 different varieties and recorded the number of fruit per plant, the total number of pounds of fruit per plant and the average size of tomato in ounces.  Results are below.

Tomato          Fruit/plant         Lbs/plant        oz/fruit
 
Celebrity         43.03                     22.40                5.80
Dixie Red         17.43                       8.96                 6.23
Ultrasonic        44.59                     16.87                4.60
Summerpick    24.42                    13.21                 5.81
Defiant              66.68                    15.61                 2.80
Katana               26.05                     9.14                 4.37
Mountain Magesty  32.08         15.50                5.76
Jetstar               43.28                    13.96                4.09
Chefs Choice   39.38                   20.73                 5.57
Burrells Special  35.62                13.64                4.44
 
Celebrity was our standard for determinate or semi-determinate tomatoes. We use Celebrity as our standard as it has proven to be an excellent tomato for years. All listed tomatoes are determinate or semi-determinate except the last three (Jetstar, Chefs Choice and Burrells Special). Celebrity continues to prove itself to be an excellent yielding tomato with more pounds per plant than any other in the trial.  Fruit size was also very good with only Dixie Red surpassing it.
 
The latter three are indeterminate types with Jetstar being the standard. In this case, Chefs Choice produced more pounds per plant than either Jetstar or Burrells Special.  Chefs Choice also produced the largest fruit of the three.

Pests:
Fungus Gnats

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Fungus gnats are small insects (1/8 to 1/10 inch long) that are common in high-organic-matter houseplant soils that are kept moist. Though adults are mosquito-like in appearance, they do not bother humans or pets. It is actually the larvae or maggots that can injure plants by feeding on the roots. Symptoms include sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth and yellowing leaves. Use of sterile media and avoiding overwatering can help prevent infestations. Existing infestations can be controlled Bacillus thuringiensis v. israelensis (Gnatrol). (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Bringing Houseplants Down to Size

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We sometimes receive calls from gardeners who wish to donate houseplants that have outgrown their location. In most cases, we don’t have room to accept plants and suggest that people bring them down to size by air-layering. Air-layering is a process where a branch or the main stem is encouraged to form roots while still attached to the parent plant. After rooting, the original plant is discarded and the newly rooted one is potted as a replacement. Though this propagation technique cannot be used on all houseplants, it does work well on many that tend to outgrow their boundaries including croton, dracaena, dieffenbachia, Norfolk Island pine, rubber plant and schefflera.
 
It is best to choose wood that is about 1 year old. Older or more immature wood often roots poorly, if at all. Any place on the stem that is of the proper maturity can be used, but a convenient location is often about 12 inches from the tip. Following are the steps required for air-layering:
 
* Leaves should be removed around the area to be air-layered.
* Wound the stem. This can be done by making a slanting cut upward, an inch or more in length and halfway through the stem. Place a portion of a toothpick in the cut so it cannot close and heal. If the stem is seriously weakened, use a stick “splint” to prevent breakage. Another method that works well is to strip the bark completely around the stem in a band one-half to one inch wide.
* Apply rooting hormone to the wounded surface of the cut or the stripped portion of the branch.
* Pack a baseball-sized wad of moist, unmilled sphagnum peat moss around the wounded area so it forms a ball. This is where new roots will form. It is important to use the long, stringy unmilled peat moss rather than the more common milled material so peat moss does not fall away from the stem when released. Even unmilled peat moss may need to be secured with string to keep it in place.
* Wrap the ball of sphagnum peat moss with clear plastic wrap. Be sure to use enough wrap so that the plastic overlaps and prevents the ball from drying out. Secure the top and bottom edges of the wrap closed with electrical tape, string or other convenient fasteners.
 
Roots may appear in as little as a month though it may take much longer for the plant to be ready for transplanting. Check periodically to be sure peat moss remains moist. Water if needed. When roots have filled the peat moss, the plant is ready to be severed from the parent and transplanted. (Ward Upham)

Poisonous Plants

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Some of the plants we commonly use in our homes, gardens and landscapes are poisonous. We often have requests from parents who want to make sure their plants are safe for young children.
 
The following poisonous plant list came from various University websites.
 
Flowers
caladium (all parts)
cardinal flower (all parts)
castor bean (seeds and leaves)
daffodil (all parts)
flowering tobacco {Nicotiana} (leaves and flowers)
four-o-clock (roots and seeds)
foxglove (all parts)
hellebore (all parts)
iris (all parts)
lantana (unripe fruits and leaves)
larkspur {Delpinium} (all parts)
lily of the valley (all parts)
lupine (all parts)
monkshood(all parts)
poppy (all parts except ripe seeds)
snowdrop (bulb)
spurge (milky sap)
star-of-Bethlehem (all parts)
sweet pea (seeds, seedlings, and pods)
tulip (bulbs)
 
Houseplants Chinese Evergreen anthurium (all parts)
aloe (sap if ingested)
calla lily (all parts)
croton (seeds, leaves, and stems)
crown-of-thorns (milky sap)
dieffenbachia (all parts)
elephant ear (all)
fig (leaves, fruits, and sap)
Jerusalem Cherry (all parts)
mistletoe (all parts)
Philodendron (all parts)

Fruits
apple (bark, leaves, seeds)
pear (bark, leaves, seeds)
apricot (bark, leaves, seeds, pits)
peach (bark, leaves, seeds, pits)
nectarine (bark, leaves, seeds, pits)
plum (bark, leaves, seeds, pits)
cherry (bark, leaves, seeds, pits)
avocado (leaves, unripe fruit, bark, and seeds)
 
Landscape plants
azalea (leaves and flowers)
black locust (all parts)
Boston ivy (berries)
boxwood (leaves and twigs)
buckeye (leaves, shoots, bark, flowers, and seeds)
burning bush (all parts)
cherry (leaves, twigs, bark, and seeds)
clematis (leaves)
elderberry (roots, stems, bark, leaves, and unripe fruits)
English ivy (all parts)
golden chaintree {Laburnum} (all parts)
holly (berries and leaves)
horsechestnut (all parts)
hydrangea (leaves and buds of some species)
Kentucky coffee tree (seeds, fruit pulp, leaves, twigs)
oak (acorns, leaves, and young shoots of some species)
poison sumac (all parts)
privet (all parts)
rhododendron (leaves and flowers)
​Virginia creeper or woodbine (berries)
yew {Taxus} (all parts except the fleshy red cover on the seed)
wisteria (all parts)
 
Vegetables
potato (green skin, buds, and sprouts on tubers, also fruits and foliage)
rhubarb (leafy blade, not the leaf stalk)
 
For more information, consult the following references.
 
Common Poisonous Plants and Mushrooms of North America, Turner and Szcawinski, Timber Press, Inc. ISBN 0-88192-179-3
 
Potentially Poisonous Plants in the House and Garden, http://www.northcarolinahealth.com/poisonous-house-plants-and-vegetables.php   (Ward Upham)

Plants Recommended for Kansas

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If you have had trouble finding a listing of plants recommended for Kansas, visit our web page devoted to this topic. We have links to a wide variety of plants including annual flowers, perennial flowers (including breakouts for iris and daylilies), fruit, vegetables, turfgrass, low-maintenance roses and tree recommendations that are broken out by areas of the state. We also list recommended low water use plants. You can find this page at
http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/recommended-plants/

We also have images of hundreds of the following:
- Varieties of iris, daylilies, roses and peonies found in the University Gardens Collection Gardens at  http://www.k-state.edu/gardens/gardens/collections/
- Annual flowers recommended for Kansas at http://www.prairiestarflowers.com/Prairie_Star_nav.html
- Perennial flowers at  http://www.prairiestarflowers.com/Prairie_Bloom_nav.html  (WardUpham)
 
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 5

2/2/2016

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Video of the Week:
Tips for Growing Blueberries

Upcoming Events:

RetailWorks
February 4, 2016

Manhattan, KS

Grow Your Garden Center Business in 2016!
We hope you'll join us for this companion conference to the biennial NurseryWorks conference--RetailWorks on Thursday, February 4, 2016 in Manhattan. While NurseryWorks focuses on providing resources for wholesale nursery crop growers, RetailWorks is designed with the independent garden center's needs in mind. We continue to bring in 
outstanding national and local speakers on a variety of topics. You'll find great content and networking at RetailWorks 2016--get it on your calendar and register today!  For more information, go to: 
http://retailworks.weebly.com/ or register online at 
https://2016retailworks.eventbrite.com

Fruit:
Approaching Time for Peach Leaf Curl Control

peach leaf curl
If you have ever seen emerging peach leaves that are puckered, swollen, distorted and reddish-green color, you have seen peach leaf curl. Uncontrolled, this disease can severely weaken trees due to untimely leaf drop when leaves unfurl in the spring. Fortunately, peach leaf curl is not that difficult to control if the spray is applied early enough. However, by the time you see symptoms, it is much too late. As a matter of fact, fungicides are ineffective if applied after buds begin to swell. Don't spray when temperatures are below 40 degrees or will fall below freezing before the spray dries. Usually we can wait until March to spray but an extended warm period in February that encourages early bud swell may require spraying in late February. Though peach leaf curl can be controlled by a single fungicide application either in the fall after leaf drop, it is more commonly controlled in the spring.
    
There are several fungicides labeled for this disease including 
chlorothalonil (Ortho Garden Disease Control, Fertilome Broad Spectrum Fungicide, GardenTech Fungicide Disease Control and Daconil). Thoroughly cover the entire tree during application. Note that it is much easier to achieve good spray coverage if the tree is pruned before spraying. (Ward Upham)

Pruning Fruit Trees

fruit tree after pruning
Fruit trees can be pruned from now through March as long as the wood isn’t frozen. Following are some general recommendations on pruning mature fruit trees followed by more specific instructions on each species. If you have young fruit trees, see the accompanying article in this newsletter.

General Recommendations 
- Take out broken, damaged or diseased branches
- If two branches form a narrow angle, prune one out. Narrow angles are weak angles and tend to break during wind or ice storms.
- Take out all suckers. Suckers are branches that grow straight up. They may originate from the trunk or from major branches
- If two branches cross and rub against one another, one should be taken out.
- Cut back or remove branches that are so low they interfere with harvest or pruning. If cutting back a branch, always cut back to another branch or a bud. Do not leave a stub.
- Cut back branches to reduce the total size of the tree, if necessary.
- Thin branches on the interior of the tree.
Follow the steps above in order but stop if you reach 30% of the tree. For a short video on pruning, click here.

Specific Instructions
Peach and Nectarine: Peach and nectarine require more pruning than any other fruit trees because they bear fruit on growth from the previous year. Not pruning results in fruit being borne further and further from the center of the tree allowing a heavy fruit crop to break major branches due to the weight of the fruit. Prune long branches back to a shorter side branch

Apple: Apples tend to become overgrown if not pruned regularly. Wind storms and ice storms are then more likely to cause damage. Also, trees that are not pruned often become biennial bearers. In other words, they bear a huge crop one year and none the next. Biennial bearing is caused by too many fruit on the tree. Though pruning helps, fruit often needs to be thinned as well. The goal is an apple about every 4 inches. Spacing can vary as long as the average is about every 4 inches.

Cherry, Pear, Plum: Light pruning is usually all that is needed. Simply remove branches that are causing or will cause a problem according to the general recommendations above. (Ward Upham)

Pruning Young Fruit Trees

young fruit tree
 Young fruit trees should be pruned to begin developing a strong structure of the main or scaffold limbs. This will help prevent limb breakage over the years when the scaffolds carry a heavy fruit load. Apple, apricot, cherry, plum and pear trees generally are trained using the central leader system. The growth pattern for these trees is for a center branch to be dominant and to grow straight up. Peach and nectarine trees are normally pruned using the open center method because they do not have a strong tendency for one shoot or branch to dominate the growth of other shoots or branches. In this system, the tree is pruned to a vase-like pattern with no central leader.
    
Regardless of the system used, the three to four scaffold branches 
should:
     • Be no lower than 18 inches from the ground. This makes it easier to prune and harvest the tree once it matures.
     • Form wide angles (about 60 to 80 degrees) with the trunk. Wide angles are much stronger than narrow angles and are less likely to break under wind or ice loads.
     • Be distributed on different sides of the tree for good balance.
     • Be spaced about 6 to 10 inches apart on the trunk with no branch directly opposite or below another. (Ward Upham)

Pruning Overgrown Apple Trees

overgrown apple tree
Apple trees that are not pruned for several years will often produce so many branches that little energy is left for fruit 
production. Overgrown apple trees are also difficult to harvest and spray. Gardeners who have such a tree are often at a loss as to how to get it back in shape.
    
Often the best recommendation for such a tree is to make one 
pruning cut at ground level and start over with a new tree. However, trees may have sentimental value that will make revitalization worth the time and effort. Realize that this will be a multi-year process because no more than 30 percent of the tree should be removed in one year. Here 
are some steps to follow:

1. Remove all dead wood. This does not count toward the 30 percent.

2. Remove suckers from the base of the tree.

 3. Choose approximately six of the best branches to keep as scaffold branches. Remove all others. Branches should be cut flush to the branch collar. The collar is the natural swelling that occurs where a branch connects to the trunk or to a larger branch. Removing the collar would leave a larger wound that would take additional time to heal. Do not paint wounds. Wounds heal more quickly if left open. Candidates for removal include branches with narrow crotch angles, which are more likely to break in wind and ice storms, and those that cross branches you will save. This may be all that is possible the first year if the 30 percent threshold has been reached.
    
4. Thin the branches on each scaffold branch. Remove crowded 
branches to open up the tree to light and allow humidity to escape. Shorten each scaffold branch by cutting back to a side branch. When you are through, the tree should have enough wood removed so that a softball can be thrown through the tree.
    
Severe pruning often will cause an apple tree to produce vigorous 
side shoots from the trunk called water sprouts. Main branches will also produce suckers that grow straight up. The suckers and water sprouts should be removed throughout the growing season so the center of the tree stays open. Removing water sprouts and suckers is the most time consuming and difficult practice necessary to bring an overgrown apple back into shape.   (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Check Plants for Scale Insects

scale insects
The dormant season is a good time to check woody plants for scale insect infestations. This time of year, deciduous plants do not have leaves, so scale is more easily seen.
    
If an infestation is detected, make plans to apply a dormant oil 
for control by March 1. Be sure the temperature is 40 degrees or above before spraying. Scale insects are easily overlooked because they are small and immobile most of their lives and they do not resemble most other insects. Many of them resemble small shells that are oval or circular, but some have more unusual shapes like oyster shells. Coloring varies, but can include white, tan, and brown.
    
Plants that should be inspected for scales include apples, pears, 
other fruit trees, bush fruits, lilac, crabapple, oak, ash, elm, lilac, maple, linden, arborvitae, juniper, pine, spruce and yew. Manhattan euonymus, a broadleaf evergreen, is especially noted for having scale problems.  Plants are not harmed if only a few scales are present. But scale population can increase dramatically during the growing season. Heavy scale infestations can damage fruit crops, destroy branches and kill entire plants. (Ward Upham)

Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnat
Fungus gnats are small insects (1/8 to 1/10 inch long) that are common in high-organic-matter houseplant soils that are kept moist. Though adults are mosquito-like in appearance, they do not bother humans or pets. It is actually the larvae or maggots that can injure plants by feeding on the roots. Symptoms include sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth and yellowing leaves. Use of sterile media and avoiding overwatering can help prevent infestations. Existing infestations can be controlled Bacillus thuringiensis v. israelensis (Gnatrol). (Ward Upham)

Contributors:  Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

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    Transplant Fertilization
    Tree Health
    Tree Leaves And Turf
    Tree Planting
    Trees
    Tubakia
    Tubakia-leaf-spot
    Turf-in-shade
    Twig-girdlers
    Vegetable-flowersfruit
    Vegetables
    Vegetable Seed
    Vegetable Transplants
    Velvet Ants
    Vinegar As Herbicide
    Walnut Caterpillars
    Warm Fall
    Water Damage
    Watering
    Watermelon
    Water Teepees
    Weeds In Flower Beds
    Weeds In Turf
    Weird Squash
    White Grubs
    Whitelined-sphinx-caterpillar
    Wildflower Establishment
    Wildflower-establishment
    Wildlife
    Wild Violet Control
    Wind Chill
    Winter Damage
    Winterizing Water Lines
    Winter Mulching Vegetables
    Winter Squash
    Wood Chips
    Worms From Oaks
    Yellowjackets
    Yellow Nutsedge

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