Category: Overseeding Lawns

Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings.

Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seed from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch.

Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. For small spots, a hand rake can be used to roughen up the soil before the seed is applied.

A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. Another option is to use a core aerator.

The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil.

Of the three methods, I prefer the slit seeder for obtaining good seed/soil contact. However, if watering is difficult, core aeration may be a better option. Regardless of method used, fertilizer should be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. (Ward Upham)

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 35

8/30/2016

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Video of the Week:
Pears, Tips on Harvesting

Turfgrass:
Fall Lawn Seeding Tips

The keys to successful lawn seeding are proper rates, even dispersal, good seed to soil contact, and proper watering. Evenness is best achieved by carefully calibrating the seeder or by adjusting the seeder to a low setting and making several passes to ensure even distribution. Seeding a little on the heavy side with close overlapping is better than missing areas altogether, especially for the bunch-type tall fescue, which does not spread. Multiple seeder passes in opposite directions should help avoid this problem.

A more serious error in seeding is using the improper rate. For tall fescue, aim for 6 to 8 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet for new areas and about half as much for overseeding or seeding areas in the shade. Using too much seed results in a lawn more prone to disease and damage from stress. The best way to avoid such a mistake is to determine the square footage of the yard first, and then calculate the amount of seed. Using too little seed can also be detrimental and result in clumpy turf that is not as visually pleasing.

Establishing good seed to soil contact is essential for good germination rates. Slit seeders achieve good contact at the time of seeding by dropping seed directly behind the blade that slices a furrow into the soil. Packing wheels then follow to close the furrow. The same result can be accomplished by using a verticut before broadcasting the seed, and then verticutting a second time.

Core aerators can also be used to seed grass. Go over an area at least three times in different directions, and then broadcast the seed. Germination will occur in the aeration holes. Because those holes stay moister than a traditional seedbed, this method requires less watering. If seeding worked soil, use light hand raking to mix the seed into the soil. A leaf rake often works better than a garden rake because it mixes seed more shallowly.

Water newly planted areas lightly, but often. Keep soil constantly moist but not waterlogged. During hot days, a new lawn may need to be watered three times a day. If watered less, germination will be slowed. Cool, calm days may require watering only every couple of days. As the grass plants come up, gradually decrease watering to once a week if there is no rain. Let the plants tell you when to water. If you can push the blades down and they don't spring back up quickly, the lawn needs water. Once seed sprouts, try to minimize how much traffic (foot, mower, dog, etc.) seeded areas receive until the seedlings are a little more robust and ready to be mowed. Begin mowing once seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall. (Ward Upham)

Overseeding a Lawn

Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings.

Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seed from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch.

Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. For small spots, a hand rake can be used to roughen up the soil before the seed is applied.

A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. Another option is to use a core aerator.

The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil.

If the three methods, I prefer the slit seeder for obtaining good seed/soil contact. However, if watering is difficult, core aeration may be a better option. Regardless of method used, fertilize should be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. (Ward Upham)

Power Raking and Core-Aeration

September is the optimum time to power rake or core-aerate tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass lawns. These grasses should be coming out of their summer doldrums and beginning to grow more vigorously. This is a good time to consider what we are trying to accomplish with these practices.

Power raking is primarily a thatch control operation. It can be excessively damaging to the turf if not done carefully. For lawns with one-half inch of thatch or less, I don’t recommend power raking but rather core aeration. For those who are unsure what thatch is, it is a springy layer of light-brown organic matter that resembles peat moss and is located above the soil but below the grass foliage. Power raking pulls up an incredible amount of material that then must be dealt with by composting or discarding.

Core-aeration is a much better practice for most lawns. By removing cores of soil, core-aeration relieves compaction, hastens thatch decomposition, and improves water, nutrient, and oxygen movement into the soil profile. This operation should be performed when the soil is just moist enough so that it crumbles easily when worked between the fingers. Enough passes should be made so that the holes are spaced about 2 to 3 inches apart. Ideally, the holes should penetrate 2.5 to 3 inches deep. The cores can be left on the lawn to decompose naturally (a process that usually takes two or three weeks, depending on soil-type), or they can be broken up with a power rake set just low enough to nick the cores, and then dragged with a section of chain-link fence or a steel doormat. The intermingling of soil and thatch is beneficial to the lawn. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Dividing Peonies

Peonies are a favorite perennial of gardeners because of their beauty and low maintenance. In Kansas, peonies provide a beautiful display of flowers each spring before Memorial Day. Though peonies can be left in place indefinitely, many gardeners wish to increase their plantings and use a process known as division to accomplish this. Keep in mind, however, that peonies often take about three years to return to full bloom and size after division.

Fall is the traditional time to divide these plants. Peonies are essentially dormant by mid-August even though the foliage is still green. The first step in division is to remove the foliage. Then dig out the entire plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as possible so that the pink buds or "eyes" are visible. Peony roots are tough, and a sharp knife is needed to cut the roots into separate pieces. Make sure each division has three to four buds. Make sure the location chosen for planting receives at least a half-day of full sun. However, the more sun, the better. Space the plants so that there is at least 2 feet between dwarf types and 4 feet between the standard types.

Follow the same rules for planting these divisions as you do for new plants. Make sure the pink buds are about 1 inch below the soil surface. If they are set more than 2 inches deep, flowering may be delayed or completely prevented. As you set the plants, firm soil often as it is added around the plant. If the soil is not firmed, it can settle and pull the plant down with it. Water in well after planting and water as necessary through the fall and winter to keep the soil moist.

It is often a good idea to add mulch to the new planting to protect it from heaving. The alternate freezing and thawing that commonly occurs during Kansas winters can "heave" weakly rooted plants out of the ground. Add a mulch of straw, leaves, compost or other material after the soil freezes. Remember, it is not the cold that harms these plants but the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Twig Dieback on Oak

Recently we have seen twig dieback on pin and other oaks caused by a fungal disease called Botryosphaeria canker. Affected trees show wilting or “flagging” of terminal growth on the ends of branches. Dieback usually extends 4 to 6 inches down the twig with leaves bending back toward the twig before turning brown. Dead leaves remain attached to the tree. If you look closely at the twig, you should see a rather marked transition from healthy to diseased tissue. Take a knife and scrape away some of the outer bark tissue. Healthy tissue is light green. Diseased tissue tends to be brown to black.

Botryosphaeria canker differs from oak wilt in that only the tips of branches are affected. Oak wilt affects whole branches. This disease causes such minor damage that chemical control measures are unwarranted. Dead twigs on small trees may be pruned off if desired. (Ward Upham)

Spring Flowering Shrubs

August through September is the time period our spring-flowering shrubs set flower buds. Therefore, watering, as needed, at this time can help with next spring’s bloom. Examples of spring-flowering shrubs include Forsythia, Flowering Quince, Almond, Beautybush, Deutzia, Pyracantha, Lilac, Mock Orange, Cotoneaster, Weigela, Viburnum and Witchhazel. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 34

8/25/2015

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Video of the Week:
Overseeding Your Lawn

Turfgrass:
Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Turf in Shade

We are often asked, “What’s the best shade grass for Kansas?” The answer is simple but requires explanation. Tall fescue is the best shade grass for Kansas. That does not mean that tall fescue is the best shade grass of all those grown. True fine leaf fescues such as sheep’s fescue, hard fescue, and creeping red fescue are actually better adapted to shade than tall fescue, but they have difficulty surviving Kansas summers. It might be better to say that tall fescue is the best shade grass adapted to Kansas conditions. Although tall fescue is our best shade grass, that does not mean that tall fescue is all that good in the shade. Large trees that produce deep shade will not allow tall fescue to survive over the long term. I say “over the long term” because fall-planted cool-season grasses will often do well under shade trees through the fall and spring when there is less leaf cover and growing conditions are better (cooler and moister) than in the summer. We often see people plant tall fescue in the shade each fall and then wonder what happens the following summer. The answer is stress from multiple fronts. Sunlight that passes through the leaves of trees has had most of the “good” light that drives photosynthesis stripped out. The grass struggles to make the food it needs for survival and growth. When this poor diet is combined with the additional stresses of drought and heat, tall fescue is unable to survive.

So, what should you do if you have too much shade for your turf? You have three choices. Reduce the shade by pruning up the lower branches of your trees so more early and late sun reaches the turf. This is not practical with many trees because it can destroy the desired shape. A second option is to plant a groundcover that is well-adapted to shady sites such as periwinkle or English ivy. Another solution would be to mulch the area under the tree. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Small Peaches

Late frosts that kill peach flowers are common in Kansas. Many areas will not have a full peach crop except for about one in every seven (or more) years. This year has been exceptional, with full fruit crops and excellent peach-growing weather in most areas. However, we have been receiving reports of trees with small peaches. Though small fruit could be due to poor weather (rare this year) or heavy fruit crops (common), there is a third possibility that is often overlooked. That possibility occurs when the top portion of the peach dies and the rootstock puts up new growth.

Peaches, like other fruit plants, must be vegetatively propagated. In other words, you cannot grow fruit from seed and expect the progeny to share the same characteristics as the parent. Therefore, good fruit trees have a top portion called the scion (the good fruiting part) and a bottom portion known as the rootstock. This combination is made by grafting or budding the scion onto the rootstock. Virtually everything above ground will be the scion and everything below ground will be the rootstock. The rootstock may keep the tree smaller, be more disease resistant than the scion, delay bloom or give some other good characteristic to the tree. However, the rootstock normally does not produce good, high quality fruit. Therefore, if the scion dies and the rootstock throws up new growth, the fruit produced will most likely be of poor quality.

How do you tell if the small fruit is due to a rootstock taking over? If the fruit produced is always poor quality, then suspect the rootstock problem. If this is the case, there is no remedy. The tree will not produce good quality fruit regardless of the care given. It would be best to remove and replace the tree. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

Peonies often look a little bedraggled by this time of year and gardeners may want to cut them back. That will not be a problem with this perennial. Peonies are essentially dormant by September 1, even though leaves may still be green. Cut leaves off close to the ground and compost or discard. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Spring Flowering Shrubs

August through September is the time period our spring flowering shrubs set flower buds. Therefore, watering, as needed, at this time can help with next spring’s bloom. Examples of spring flower shrubs include Forsythia, Flowering Quince, Almond, Beautybush, Deutzia, Pyracantha, Lilac, Mock Orange, Cotoneaster, Weigela, Viburnum and Witchhazel. (Ward Upham)

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

With all the concern about Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), many people may assume the trees are being attacked by EAB. However, EAB has only been confirmed in Johnson, Leavenworth and Wyandotte counties.

Mycosphaerella leaf spot causes small, brown spots that enlarge to become blotches and may result in early leaf drop. Though this disease looks serious, it is not. Defoliation this late in the growing season will not hurt the health of the tree. Therefore, because this disease appears sporadically and tree health is not harmed, we do not recommend treatment. Furthermore, treatment would have to be preventative and applied before the disease had infected the leaves. Applying a fungicide now would have no effect. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Fall Webworm

On a return trip to Manhattan Monday, I noted the presence of fall webworms along the roadway --- sometimes one or two in an occasional tree here and there, or (in this instance) numerous web masses. These did not develop “overnight.” Judging by their size, these colonies likely were initiated 4-5 weeks earlier. People may worry about the impact of feeding depredations, but it is minimal. A healthy tree will not be hurt. Probably a more verbally expressed concern is the unsightliness created by the webbing, as well “creepy” clumps of caterpillars within.

A common recommendation is to prune out webbed branches. One must consider the accessibility of web masses --- those beyond reach simply allowed to remain. Pruning might be doable if just a branch or two ---- but possibly unacceptable and disfiguring when trees are heavily infested with web masses.If within reach, consider an implement (of sorts) to “rake out”/remove webbing. And what implement could be more handy (yes, pun intended) than one’s own hand. There is no need to fear the dry webbing and/or dried fecal deposits and squirmy caterpillar within. As webbing is removed, also removed will be the objectionable dead/dry foliage and the fall webworms. Simply dispose of the gathered material. All that is left behind is the leafless (but still living) branch and its’ intact buds which will produce the ensuing year’s foliage. (Bob Bauernfeind)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Bob Bauernfeind, Extension Entomologist

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2014 Horticulture Newsletter, No. 34

8/26/2014

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Video of the Week:
Overseeding your Lawn

Turfgrass:
Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

September is almost here and that means it is prime time to fertilize your tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass lawns. If you could only fertilize your cool-season grasses once per year, this would be the best time to do it.

These grasses are entering their fall growth cycle as days shorten and temperatures moderate (especially at night). Cool-season grasses naturally thicken up in the fall by tillering (forming new shoots at the base of existing plants) and, for bluegrass, spreading by underground stems called rhizomes. Consequently, September is the most important time to fertilize these grasses.

Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. The settings recommended on lawn fertilizer bags usually result in about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. We recommend a quick-release source of nitrogen at this time. Most fertilizers sold in garden centers and department stores contain either quick-release nitrogen or a mixture of quick- and slow-release. Usually only lawn fertilizers recommended for summer use contain slow-release nitrogen. Any of the others should be quick-release.

The second most important fertilization of cool-season grasses also occurs during the fall. A November fertilizer application will help the grass green up earlier next spring and provide the nutrients needed until summer. It also should be quick-release applied at the rate of 1-pound actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. (Ward Upham)

Power Raking and Core-Aeration

September is the optimum time to power rake or core-aerate tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass lawns. These grasses should be coming out of their summer doldrums and beginning to grow more vigorously. This is a good time to consider what we are trying to accomplish with these practices.

Power raking is primarily a thatch control operation. It can be excessively damaging to the turf if not done carefully. For lawns with one-half inch of thatch or less, I don’t recommend power raking but rather core aeration. For those who are unsure what thatch is, it is a springy layer of light-brown organic matter that resembles peat moss and is located above the soil but below the grass foliage. Power raking pulls up an incredible amount of material that then must be dealt with by composting or discarding.

Core-aeration is a much better practice for most lawns. By removing cores of soil, core-aeration relieves compaction, hastens thatch decomposition, and improves water, nutrient, and oxygen movement into the soil profile. This operation should be performed when the soil is just moist enough so that it crumbles easily when worked between the fingers. Enough passes should be made so that the holes are spaced about 2 to 3 inches apart. Ideally, the holes should penetrate 2.5 to 3 inches deep. The cores can be left on the lawn to decompose naturally (a process that usually takes two or three weeks, depending on soil-type), or they can be broken up with a vertical mower set just low enough to nick the cores, and then dragged with a section of chain-link fence or a steel doormat. The intermingling of soil and thatch is beneficial to the lawn. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
Peonies May be Cut Back Now

Peonies often look a little bedraggled by this time of year and gardeners may want to cut them back. That will not be a problem with this perennial. Peonies are essentially dormant by September 1 even though leaves may still be green. Cut leaves off close to the ground and compost or discard. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Big XII Gardening

Ready to gear up for football season, K-State fans? What better way to cheer on the Wildcats than by featuring plants with purple accents in your landscape. As you know, there are several categories of plants from which to choose including annual bedding/container plants, perennials, bulbs and woody shrubs or trees. Depending on your level of commitment to K-State-themed gardening, there are multiple ways to celebrate our beloved sports teams.

For instant color, consider a container combination with any purple (angelonia, petunia, etc.), white (petunia or vinca) or gray (lambs ears) plants. Make sure they can all be grown in the same sun and water conditions. Check out www.prairiestarflowers.com for more ideas and cultivar recommendations. Go shopping at your local garden center and see what you can find!

For those of you who like to plan ahead, there are many woody plants that may take a few years to mature in your landscape, but are well worth the investment. Most feature purple blooms or purple leaves (specimen plants!). Download the new “Deciduous Shrubs for Kansas” publication (http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/MF3116.pdf), open it on your computer and run a search for “purple” in the document. This should give you plenty of options.

One of the gardeners in my neighborhood celebrates Big XII football every year by painting a small wooden slate in the colors of the teams we will play. He places the blank slates on his fence and, after each game, he paints the score on the no-longer-blank slate. It’s a great visual reminder of something that is important to him and of interest to lots of folks driving by. It also makes interesting and relevant garden art.

How about container gardening in the colors of the Big XII? If you think about it, throughout the 10 teams in the conference, the same colors are used in combination: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, white, gray and black. You could grow containers that each feature a plant with one of these colors, then move them around in different combinations depending on which teams are playing at any given time. Sound like fun?

I had one more thought on Big XII gardening: plant a small arrangement along a fence or in a planting bed for each team in the conference, featuring their colors. Maybe with a scoreboard above it? Well… I suppose it wouldn’t be a particularly great reminder if those flowers were still living long after the results of the game were available. Hmm… Roundup® the plants when we beat them? Ha! JUST KIDDING! (Cheryl Boyer)

Are Crabapples Safe to Eat?

Crabapples are safe to consume as long as you don’t eat too many of them. Actually, the only difference between crabapples and apples is the size of the fruit. By definition, crabapples have fruit that are 2 inches or less in diameter, and apples are more than 2 inches in diameter. By this definition, most of the apples grown from seed will be crabapples. The fruiting apples are grafted. So did people ever plant crabapples from seed? Of course they did. Just think of Johnny Appleseed. But those apples were normally used for jelly, applesauce, and cider and not for fresh eating.

There is one other caveat with using crabapples from a tree in the landscape. Make sure the tree hasn't been sprayed as an ornamental with a pesticide that isn't labeled for fruit tree apples. If it has, then the fruit should not be used. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Yellowjacket Season is Here

In the past two weeks an increasing number of calls have been received regarding honey bees, or aggressive honey bees at various K-State offices. Follow-up on these calls have revealed that these are not honey bees, but yellow jackets. Yellow jackets tend to begin most of their noticeable scavenging beginning around mid-August continuing until the fall weather turns cold.

Yellow jacket wasps are ¾” in length and can resemble honey bees from a distance, but have a few distinctions. Yellow jackets are more likely to be around human food, pet food, and compost piles. They tend to nest in the ground, but can also be found in house cavities, tree cavities, or in compost piles which have not been disturbed. Honey bees have more hairs and are usually duller in color.

If you encounter a yellow jacket nest, it is best to leave the area. Yellow jackets are more likely to sting when a nest is near. They will also sting when trying to be swatted at or if accidentally encountered when drinking soda from a can they’ve crawled into.

To prevent encounters, remove attractive sources of food. Keep pet food covered or indoors, especially when not in use. Seal garbage cans and empty regularly. Pick up and dispose of ripe fruit. If you must move something in the area of a nest, it is recommended to do this before dawn or after dusk when yellow jackets are less active. (Sharon Dobesh)

Contributors: Cheryl Boyer, Extension Nursery Crops Specialist; Sharon Dobesh, Associate Director, Plant Pathology; Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 33

8/19/2014

0 Comments

Video of the Week:
Grow Your Own Salad Mix

Turfgrass:
Overseeding a Lawn

Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings.

Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seed from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch.

Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. A third option is to use a core aerator.

The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to insure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil. Fertilizer should then be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. (Ward Upham)

Fall Lawn Seeding Tips

Flowers:
Dividing Daylilies

Daylilies need to be divided every three to four years to maintain vigor. Though they may be divided in early spring before growth starts, it is more common to divide them at this time of year. Many gardeners cut back the tops to about half their original height to make plants easier to handle.

Daylilies have a very tough root system that can make them difficult to divide while in place. Dividing in place is practical if it hasn’t been long since the last division. In such cases, a spading fork can be used to peel fans from the existing clump. If the plants have been in place longer and are well grown together, it is more practical to divide them after the entire clump has been dug.

Use a spade to lift the entire clump out of the ground. Although it is possible to cut the clump apart with a sharp spade, you'll save more roots by using two spading forks back-to-back to divide the clump into sections. Each section should be about the size of a head of cauliflower. An easier method involves using a stream of water from a garden hose to wash the soil from the clump, and then rolling the clump back and forth until the individual divisions separate.

Space divisions 24 to 30 inches apart, and set each at its original depth. The number of flowers will be reduced the first year after division but will return to normal until the plants need to be divided again. (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Pear Harvest

Pears should not be allowed to ripen on the tree. They should be picked while still firm and ripened after harvest. Tree-ripened fruits are often of poor quality because of the development of grit cells and the browning and softening of the inner flesh. Commercial growers determine the best time to harvest pears by measuring the decrease in fruit firmness as the fruit matures. This varies with growing conditions and variety. A Magness meter is used for testing and measures the pressure needed to push a 5/16-inch tip a specified distance into an individual fruit. Home gardeners can use these other indicators:

1. A change in the fruit ground color from a dark green to light green or yellowish green. The ground color is the "background" color of the fruit.

2. Fruit should part easily from the branch when it is lifted up and twisted.

3. Corking over of lenticels. Lenticels are the "breathing pores" of the fruit. They start out as a white to greenish white color and turn brown due to corking as the fruit nears maturity. They look like brown “specks” on the fruit.

4. Development of characteristic pear aroma and taste of sampled fruit.

Pears ripen in one to three weeks after harvest if held at 60 to 65 degrees F. They can then be canned or preserved. If you wish to store some for ripening later, fresh-picked fruit should be placed in cold storage at 29 to 31degrees F and 90 percent humidity. Ripen small amounts as needed by moving them to a warmer location and holding them at 60 to 65 degrees F. Storing at too high a temperature (75 degrees F and higher) will result in the fruit breaking down without
ripening. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Harvesting Winter Squash

Summer squash such as zucchini and scallop are harvested while immature but winter squash such as acorn, hubbard and butternut are harvested later, in the mature stage, after the rind is tough and seeds have developed. We normally think September is the time that winter squash are harvested. Harvesting too early leads to fruit that shrivels and rots.

There are two main characteristics that help tell us when winter squash are mature: color and rind toughness.

Winter squash change color as they become mature. Butternut changes from light beige to deep tan. Acorn is a deep green color but has a ground spot that changes from yellow to orange when ripe. Gray or orange is the mature color for hubbard.

Hard, tough rinds is another characteristic of mature winter squash. This is easily checked by trying to puncture the rind with your thumbnail or fingernail. If it easily penetrates the skin, the squash is not yet mature and will lose water through the skin -- causing the fruit to dry and shrivel. Also, immature fruit will be of low quality. The stem should also be dry enough that excessive water doesn’t drip from the stem.

Winter squash should be stored cool with elevated humidity. Ideal conditions would be 55 to 60 degrees F and 50 to 70 percent relative humidity. Under such conditions, acorn squash will usually last about 5 to 8 weeks, butternuts 2 to 3 months and hubbards 5 to 6 months. (Ward Upham)

Common Smut on Sweet Corn

Smut (Ustilago maydis) is a fungal disease of corn that may infect leaves, stems, tassels or ears though infections on ears are the most obvious. Immature galls are white and spongy but become brown with dark powdery spores with maturity. Leaf galls remain small but those on the ears or stems can become rather large and will release large numbers of spores when they rupture. This disease is likely to be most severe on plants injured by hail, cultivation or insects and tends to be worse on soils that have had heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer or manure. Also anything that slows growth such as hot, dry weather or cool, wet weather when the plants are young can result in more infections.

Immature smut galls are considered an edible delicacy known as cuitlacoche in Mexico. They are a high value crop for some growers in the northeast U.S. who sell them to Mexican restaurants.

There is no chemical control for this disease. Crop rotation and a balanced fertilizer program can help minimize this disease. Remove and destroy galls from infected plants before they rupture. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Pokeweed

A number of people have asked the name of the weed with the large leaves and purple-black berries that hang in a cluster. This perennial is known as pokeweed. All parts of this plant are poisonous, especially the roots. Signs of poisoning include abdominal cramps, diarrhea, vomiting, weakness, drowsiness and difficulty in breathing. One of the toxins found in pokeweed is the protein lectin, which can cause abnormalities in white blood cells.

Surprisingly, young leafy springtime shoots are sometimes eaten after thorough cooking. Though cooking eliminates most of the toxins, there is still a danger of being poisoned from handling and preparing the shoots as well as ingesting improperly cooked plants.

Berries can be attractive to children. Cut down and discard pokeweed that might come into contact with kids. This plant is a perennial. You may want to spray it with a herbicide next year before it is large enough to be attractive to children. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Overseeding a Lawn

Overseeding a Lawn

Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 35

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Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 34

Video of the Week:
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Turfgrass:
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Fruit:
Small Peaches

Flowers:
Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:
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Pests:
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2014 Horticulture Newsletter, No. 34

Video of the Week:
Overseeding your Lawn

Turfgrass:
Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Flowers:
Peonies May be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:
Big XII Gardening

Are Crabapples Safe to Eat?

Pests:
Yellowjacket Season is Here

Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 33

Video of the Week:
Grow Your Own Salad Mix

Turfgrass:
Overseeding a Lawn

Fall Lawn Seeding Tips

Flowers:
Dividing Daylilies

Fruit:
Pear Harvest

Vegetables:
Harvesting Winter Squash

Common Smut on Sweet Corn

Miscellaneous:
Pokeweed

Authors

Subscribe to the newsletter by entering your e-mail and clicking the link below

Archives

Categories

Overseeding a Lawn

Overseeding a Lawn

Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 35

Video of the Week:Pears, Tips on Harvesting

Turfgrass:Fall Lawn Seeding Tips

Overseeding a Lawn

Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Flowers:Dividing Peonies

Miscellaneous:Twig Dieback on Oak

Spring Flowering Shrubs

Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 34

Video of the Week:Overseeding Your Lawn

Turfgrass:Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Turf in Shade

Fruit:Small Peaches

Flowers:Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:Spring Flowering Shrubs

Mycosphaerella Leaf Spot on Ash

Pests:Fall Webworm

2014 Horticulture Newsletter, No. 34

Video of the Week:Overseeding your Lawn

Turfgrass:Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Flowers:Peonies May be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:Big XII Gardening

Are Crabapples Safe to Eat?

Pests:Yellowjacket Season is Here

Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 33

Video of the Week:Grow Your Own Salad Mix

Turfgrass:Overseeding a Lawn

Fall Lawn Seeding Tips

Flowers:Dividing Daylilies

Fruit:Pear Harvest

Vegetables:Harvesting Winter Squash

Common Smut on Sweet Corn

Miscellaneous:Pokeweed

Authors

Subscribe to the newsletter by entering your e-mail and clicking the link below

Archives

Categories

Video of the Week:
Pears, Tips on Harvesting

Turfgrass:
Fall Lawn Seeding Tips

Flowers:
Dividing Peonies

Miscellaneous:
Twig Dieback on Oak

Video of the Week:
Overseeding Your Lawn

Turfgrass:
Power Raking and Core-Aeration

Fruit:
Small Peaches

Flowers:
Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:
Spring Flowering Shrubs

Pests:
Fall Webworm

Video of the Week:
Overseeding your Lawn

Turfgrass:
Give Cool-Season Grasses a Boost

Flowers:
Peonies May be Cut Back Now

Ornamentals:
Big XII Gardening

Pests:
Yellowjacket Season is Here

Video of the Week:
Grow Your Own Salad Mix

Turfgrass:
Overseeding a Lawn

Flowers:
Dividing Daylilies

Fruit:
Pear Harvest

Vegetables:
Harvesting Winter Squash

Miscellaneous:
Pokeweed