Category: Lawnmower Care

Tucking Your Lawn Mower in for the Winter

10/11/2017

If you are done mowing for the year, be sure to service your mower before putting it away. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals, which usually corrode during the season. A wire-bristle brush is a good tool for doing this. The battery can then be removed or connected to a battery monitor that will keep it charged over winter. If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected location for the winter (a cool basement works best). Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring.

Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:

* Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.

* Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.

* Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.

* If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.

* Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.

* Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.

* Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.

Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also
save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)

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Turfgrass: Keep Mower Blades Sharp

4/18/2017

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Lawn-mowing season is here. Remember that dull blades give the lawn a whitish cast. A dull blade does not cut cleanly but rather shreds the ends of the leaf blades. The shredded ends dry out, giving the lawn that whitish look. A sharp mower blade is even more important when the turf starts putting up seed heads next month. The seed head stems are much tougher than the grass blades and more likely to shred. Under normal use, mower blades should be sharpened about every 10 hours of use. (Ward Upham)

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 42

10/18/2016

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Video of the Week:
Storing Tender Bulbs for the Winter

Upcoming Events:

Kansas Turfgrass Conference in conjunction with KNLA December 6,7 & 8, 2016

Mark the date to attend the Kansas Turfgrass Conference in conjunction with KNLA on December 6, 7 & 8 in Topeka.

The conference is an excellent way to learn about turf, nursery and landscape management, visit with old friends, network with new ones, and see all the latest equipment and supplies from local and national vendors.

The conference has been approved for Commercial pesticide recertification hours:
1 Core hour       3A - 8 hrs           3B - 9 hrs

International Society of Arboriculture CEUS and GCSAA education points will also be available by attending the conference.

Download a copy of the program, get exhibitor information, or register online
      http://2016ktf.eventbrite.com

Turfgrass:
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October - Early November

Late October to early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October. These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba. Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots in the fall.

Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up. Choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow or stop this process.

Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above, plus carfentrazone. It will give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures approach 50 degrees. (Ward Upham)

Why Late Lawn Seedings Often Fail

We normally recommend that Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue be seeded in September but no later than October 15. Though plantings later than October 15 can be successful, the odds of success diminish as time passes.

The problem with late plantings is not that the seed will not come up or that young grass plants are sensitive too cold. Most often, the problem is with rooting. Unless the young grass plants have a fairly extensive root system, the freezing and thawing that takes place during winter heaves plants out of the ground, and they dry out and die.

Regardless of when planted, be sure the new lawn is kept watered through the fall. More mature lawns will need less frequent watering but all should go into the winter with moist soil. (Ward Upham)

Tucking Your Lawnmower in for the Winter

If you are done mowing for the year, be sure to service your mower before putting it away. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals, which usually corrode during the season. A wire-bristle brush is a good tool for doing this. The battery can then be removed or connected to a battery monitor that will keep it charged over winter. If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected location for the winter (a cool basement works best). Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring.

Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:
      * Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
      * Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
      * Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
* If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
      * Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
      * Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
      * Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.

Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Hardiness of Cool-Season Vegetables

Cool-season vegetables vary in cold tolerance, with some able to take colder temperatures than others. Semi-hardy crops can take a light frost but are damaged by temperatures in the mid- to upper-20s. Examples include beets, Chinese cabbage, collards, Irish potatoes, Bibb lettuce, mustard, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, and leaf lettuce. Covering these plants when cold weather threatens can help extend the harvest season.

Plants termed “hardy” can take lower temperatures but are damaged when the temperature drops to the low 20s. These include cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, and kale.

Certain root crops can essentially be stored outside even after the leaves have been damaged or killed by frost. Beets, carrots, potatoes and turnips can be mulched and harvested as needed until the soil starts to freeze in late November to December.

Growing vegetables in Kansas can be a challenge, but we have an extremely long gardening season. We can harvest from early April (asparagus) to early December. Winter is a good time to plan and prepare for next year’s crops. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals
"Apples" on an Ornamental Shrub

We have had a number of reports of misshapen or fuzzy “apples” developing on a thorny shrub in the landscape. This is most likely flowering quince. Flowering quince is grown for its attractive blooms in the spring. Normally fruit does not develop because frosts prevent fruit formation and plants fruit poorly without cross-pollination. Quince fruit are quite hard but are sometimes mixed with other fruit to make jellies and preserves. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2016, No. 16

4/19/2016

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Video of the Week:
Growing Vegetables in Containers

John C. Pair Center Job Announcement

This is a unique opportunity to work at a K-State Horticulture Research & Extension Center in the Wichita area. The John C. Pair Horticultural Center has been conducting horticulture research in South- Central Kansas for 45 years. We are looking for an Agricultural Technician to assist and manage a variety of Research and Extension projects. If you like working outside, love growing plants, and are able to work as part of a team please consider following up with the full job description at the link below:

http://careers.pageuppeople.com/742/cw/en-us/job/493138/agricultural-technician-senior

Turfgrass:
Keep Mower Blades Sharp

Orchardgrass in Tall Fescue Lawns

Orchardgrass often infests tall fescue lawns. Unfortunately, orchardgrass is lighter green and faster growing than tall fescue, so it is very visible. Homeowners complain of the light green tufts of grass wherever this weed has become established. Even worse, there are no herbicides that will kill the orchard grass without also killing the turf. About the only good thing about orchardgrass is that it is a bunch grass and does not spread.

Orchardgrass often comes in as a contaminant in grass seed, especially K-31 tall fescue. Buying good grass seed is the first line of defense against this weed. Orchardgrass is a pasture grass and therefore is not found in the “weed seed” portion of the seed label. Rather, orchard- grass will be listed as “other crop seed.” Try to buy grass seed that has 0.0% “other crop seed.”

Control options are few and painful. Use glyphosate (Roundup, Killzall Weed and Grass Killer, Kleeraway Systemic Weed and Grass Killer and others) to spot spray orchardgrass clumps. Any lawn grasses you hit will be killed, so keep the spots sprayed as small as possible. Wait until the spots have turned brown and then cut out the clumps and replace with a small piece of sod. Large numbers of orchardgrass clumps may mean it is more practical to kill the entire lawn and start over. This should be done in the fall rather than now.

For information on identification of orchardgrass, including images, go to:
http://kswildflower.org/grass_details.php?grassID=15 (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Fertilizing Cole Crops

If you planted cole crops such as cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower earlier this spring, we are near the time when they will need a little fertilizer boost. These plants need to mature before summer heat arrives, so they must grow quickly while the weather is cool. A sidedressing of fertilizer about 3 weeks after transplanting helps plants continue to grow rapidly.

Use fertilizers high in nitrogen for sidedressing such as nitrate of soda or blood meal at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 feet of row. You may also use lawn fertilizers that have close to 30 percent nitrogen such as a 30-3-4 or 29-5-4 but the rate should be cut in half to 1 pound per 100 feet of row. Do not use lawn fertilizers that have weed killers or preventers. Fertilizer must be watered in if timely rains don't do that job for you.

We have a sheet available that gives recommendations on how to sidedress specific vegetable crops. It can be found at:
http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc1991.ashx (Ward Upham)

Fruit:
Fertilizing Strawberries and Brambles

Most garden soils in Kansas have adequate levels of all nutrients other than nitrogen IF the area has been fertilized in the past. However, it is recommended that a soil test be done to be sure of the nutrient needs of your fruit planting. If the soil test recommends phosphorus and potassium, use a 10-10-10 fertilizer instead of what is recommended below but triple the rate. For example, instead of ½ cup per 10 feet of row, use 1.5 cups per 10 feet of row.

Strawberries (June-Bearing): June-bearing strawberries are not fertilized in early spring as this can make the berries soft and more prone to rot. Fertilize at renovation and again in late August to early September. In most cases, strawberries need primarily nitrogen, so the recommendations are for a high nitrogen fertilizer such as a 27-3-3, 29-5-4, 30-3-3 or something similar. Though recommended for lawns, these fertilizers will also work well for strawberries as long as they do not contain weed killers or crabgrass preventers. Apply ½ cup for every 10 feet of row. Note: For more information on renovating strawberries, see http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc3732.ashx

Strawberries (Everbearing or Day-Neutral): Fertilize in the spring as growth starts and again in early August. Use the rates recommended for June-bearing strawberries. Everbearing (dayneutral) strawberries are not renovated.

Brambles (Blackberries and Raspberries): In most cases, brambles need primarily nitrogen, so use a high nitrogen fertilizer such as a 27-3-3, 29-5-4, 30-3-3 or something similar unless a soil test directs otherwise. Though recommended for lawns, these fertilizers will also work well as long as they do not contain weed killers or crabgrass preventers. Apply ½ cup for every 10 feet of row. Fertilize in spring as growth begins. (Ward Upham)

Fruit Tree Sprays and Rain

A spreader-sticker should be used in fruit tree sprays to improve the distribution and retention of fungicides and insecticides on fruit and leaves. However, even with a spreader-sticker, a rain can reduce the length of time the materials are effective. Less than one inch of rain since the last spray will not significantly affect residues. One to two inches of rain will reduce the residue by one half. Reduce the number of days until the next spray by one half. More than two inches of rain since the last spray will remove most of the spray residue. Re-spray as soon as possible. Details on when and what to spray are available in the K-State Research and Extension publication, "Fruit Pest Control for Home Gardens" at http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/c592.pdf . (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Asparagus Beetles

Asparagus is doing well, but be on the lookout for asparagus beetles. Both the adult and larvae of asparagus beetles feed on asparagus spears by chewing the tips and spear surfaces, leading to scarring and staining of the spear tips. Asparagus beetles overwinter as adults in trash near the garden. The adults are a blue/black beetle with a red prothorax with yellow spots. The larvae are a soft, greenish grub. Small, elongated, black eggs — sticking out long ways from the side of asparagus spears — are laid on developing spears.

Early control of beetles is important to reduce feeding damage later. Sevin will provide control (a one-day wait before harvest is required). Some products with permethrin are also labeled but require a 3-day waiting period between spraying and harvest. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2015, No. 42

10/20/2015

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Video of the Week:
Storing Tender Bulbs for Winter

Turfgrass:
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October - Early November

Late October to early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October. These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba. Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots in the fall. Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up.

Choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow or stop this process.

Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above, plus carfentrazone. It will give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures approach 50 degrees. (Ward Upham)

Tree Leaves and Turf

It's that time of year again. Leaves are rapidly falling from deciduous trees so it's a good time to stop and think about options for handling the litter. Although a scattering of leaves won’t harm the lawn, excessive cover prevents sunlight from reaching turfgrass plants.

Turf left in this state for an extended period will be unable to make the carbohydrates needed to carry it through the winter.

There are options for dealing with the fallen leaves other than bagging them up and putting them out for the trash collector. Composting is a great way to handle the refuse. Compost can then be used in the vegetable garden and flowerbeds. If you do not compost, you can mow leaves with a mulching mower and let shredded leaves filter into the turf canopy. (A side-discharge mower also will work, but it won't shred the leaves as thoroughly.) This method will be most effective if you do it often enough that leaf litter doesn’t become too thick. Mow while you can still see grass peeking through the leaves.

You may wonder whether this practice will be detrimental to the lawn in the long run. Research at Michigan State University in which they used a mulching mower to shred up to about one pound of leaves per square yard of lawn (one pound is equal to approximately 6 inches of leaves piled on the grass) for five consecutive years, found no long-term effects of the shredded leaves on turf quality, thatch thickness, organic content of the thatch, or soil test results (pH, nutrients, etc.). If you mow leaves and have a cool-season lawn, it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall (things you should be doing anyway). If you have a warm-season lawn, you can still use this technique but wait to fertilize and core-aerate until next late May or early June. (Ward Upham)

Tucking Your Lawnmower in for the Winter

If you are done mowing for the year, be sure to service your mower before putting it away. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals, which usually corrode during the season. A wire-bristle brush is a good tool for doing this. The battery can then be removed or connected to a battery monitor that will keep it charged over winter. If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected location for the winter (a cool basement works best).

Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring. Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:
        * Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
        * Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
        * Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
        * If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
        * Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
        * Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
        * Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.

Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Hardiness of Cool-Season Vegetables

Cool-season vegetables vary in cold tolerance, with some able to take colder temperatures than others. Semi-hardy crops can take a light frost but are damaged by temperatures in the mid- to upper-20s. Examples include beets, Chinese cabbage, collards, Irish potatoes, Bibb lettuce, mustard, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, and leaf lettuce. Covering these plants when cold weather threatens can help extend the harvest season. Plants termed “hardy” can take lower temperatures but are damaged when the temperature drops to the low 20s. These include cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, and kale.

Certain root crops can essentially be stored outside even after the leaves have been damaged or killed by frost. Beets, carrots, potatoes and turnips can be mulched and harvested as needed until the soil starts to freeze in late November to December.

Growing vegetables in Kansas can be a challenge, but we have an extremely long gardening season. We can harvest from early April (asparagus) to early December. Winter is a good time to plan and prepare for next year’s crops. (Ward Upham)

Winter Mulching of Vegetables

We can extend the harvest season of some root crops such as beets, carrots, parsnips, and turnips by mulching to slow down soil freezing. Mulching allows harvest to continue much later than usual (usually mid- to late-December) when even mulched areas freeze hard.

Rhubarb is a shallow-rooted perennial crop that can also benefit from mulching to help stabilize soil temperatures. Plants that are not mulched may be heaved out of the ground by alternate freezing and thawing through the winter. Mulching moderates these temperature shifts and helps protect the plant. Mulch should be removed by mid-March so soil warming can encourage early emergence. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Natural Needle Drop on Conifers

We are starting to see very noticeable natural needle drop on some evergreens such as pines and spruce. This is a process where 2- to 4-year-old interior needles turn yellow, then brown, and eventually drop off. Those who aren't familiar with this process often are concerned about the health of the tree. This is a natural phenomenon that occurs every year and does not hurt the tree.

However, some years it is much more noticeable than others. Be sure to check that only the older needles are affected --the needles on the tips of the branches should look fine--and that there is no spotting or banding on the needles that are turning yellow. If spotting or banding is noted, take a sample to your local county extension office for diagnosis. (Ward Upham)

My Oaks are Raining Worms

Areas near Wichita, Kansas is receiving calls regarding tiny, white worms falling from pin oak trees. These worms are actually the larvae of the oak vein gall midge. A midge is a very small fly and therefore the larvae are maggots.

The larvae came from the vein galls that are on the pin oak leaves. Newly hatched larvae feed on the veins of young leaves in the spring and cause a swelling and flattening of the veins. These maggots are now dropping to the ground in order to pupate. Adults emerge early the next spring to start the cycle all over again. The midges apparently cause no damage. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Why No Black Walnuts This Year?

Many areas of Kansas have noticed a lack of black walnut nuts this year. This can be traced back to the sharp drop in temperature last fall in which we had a high of 69 degrees on November 10, 2014 followed by a low of 19 the next morning. Unfortunately, our walnut trees had not hardened off sufficiently by November 10 to protect the flower buds.

Black walnut flower buds are formed during the summer of the year before they bear. Therefore, what should have been this year’s nut crop set flower buds during the summer of 2014. When the temperature dropped so quickly in November, the flower buds were damaged resulting in no nuts this year. However, areas of Kansas that have seen plentiful rains, should have a good walnut crop next year unless we have another sharp drop in temperature before the trees have hardened off. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe

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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 47

11/25/2014

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Video of the Week:
Succulent Plants for Your Home

Turfgrass:
Dormant Seeding of Turfgrass

The best time to seed cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is September because the turf has more time to mature before spring crabgrass germination and the heat stress of summer. Dormant seeding of turfgrass is sometimes used to help fill in bare spots of lawns that weren't overseeded in the fall. Dormant overseeding is done during the winter (December –February) when it is much too cold for germination.

As with any seeding program, good seed-soil contact is vital. Several methods can be used. One method is to seed when there has been a light snowfall of up to an inch. This is shallow enough that bare spots can still be seen. Spread seed by hand on areas that need thickening up. As the snow melts, it brings the seed into good contact with the soil where it will germinate in the spring.

Another method is dependent on the surface of the soil being moist followed by freezing weather. As moist soil freezes and thaws, small pockets are formed on the wet, bare soil that is perfect for catching and holding seed. As the soil dries, the pockets collapse and cover the seed.

A third method involves core aerating, verticutting or hand raking and broadcasting seed immediately after. Of course, the soil must be dry enough and unfrozen for this to be practical. With any of the above methods, seed germinates in the spring as early as possible. There will be limitations on what herbicides can be used for weed control. Tupersan (siduron) can be used as a crabgrass preventer on new seedings even before they have come up. Also dithiopyr, found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper, can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Dithiopyr is longer lasting and more effective than siduron. Other preemergence herbicides require that the turf be well established before application. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Why Haven't the Tree Leaves Fallen?

Certain trees on campus have not dropped their leaves including some maples, sycamores, London planetrees, ornamental pears, fringetrees and Chinese elms. Though some deciduous trees such as pin oaks do normally hold on to leaves through at least part of the winter, most do not. What we have experienced is a “marcescent” fall. Marcescent simply means to wither without falling off. The last time this happened was during the fall of 2000.

So, how does marcescence happen? It is triggered by a very quick change from warm weather to cold during the fall. Trees usually begin to prepare for winter by absorbing nutrients from the leaves and inducing each leaf to form an abscission layer at the base of the leaf stem. The abscission layer weakens cell walls and allows the leaves to fall. The quick change from warm to very cold weather this November killed the still green leaves before the abscission layer had formed. Therefore leaves have remained attached to the tree. Though marcescence will not harm the tree directly, a heavy snowfall or ice storm could cause much more limb breakage than normal due to more surface area being available for snow or ice to collect.

Unfortunately, there isn’t much we can do except hope remaining leaves will fall and that we can avoid any snow or ice storms. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Poor Drainage in Garden Areas

Winter is often a good time to fix areas in the garden where water sits and does not drain properly. Such areas often harm plant roots due to poor oxygen levels in the soil. Consider adding good topsoil so water doesn’t sit. Be sure to till or spade the area to mix the new topsoil and the underlying existing soil. Plant roots do not like to cross distinct barriers caused by one type of soil sitting on top of another. Internal drainage can be improved by adding organic matter such as peatmoss, rotted hay, cotton burrs, rotted silage or compost. This can be done by adding a 2- to 4- inch layer of organic matter to the surface of the soil and tilling or spading in as deeply as possible. (Ward Upham)

Storing Power Equipment for the Winter

Late fall or early winter is a good time to service power equipment such as mowers, tillers and garden tractors. Run the equipment out of gas or treat the existing gas with a stabilizer as untreated gas can deteriorate over time. If using a stabilizer, run the engine long enough for untreated gas in the carburetor bowl to be burned and replaced. This is also a good time to replace the oil (and filter, if present) since the engine is warm. Check and replace the spark plug if necessary.

Some gardeners will also apply a light, sprayable oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Check and clean air filters and replace if necessary. Many mowers and tillers will have a foam prefilter that can become filthy with use. If allowed to become too dirty, engines will run poorly or may not run at all. Sharpen blades, clean tines, tighten screws, replace broken parts and do all the other things needed to keep equipment in good shape. Though such maintenance takes some time and effort, it pays for itself by reducing frustration and lost time due to poorly performing equipment during a hectic spring. (Ward Upham)

Houseplants Losing Leaves

Homeowners often become concerned about their houseplants this time of year because they look unthrifty and may even shed leaves. Most of this is the plant responding to low light levels. Not only is the day length shorter, but the angle of the sun means sunlight must travel through more atmosphere before it reaches us in the northern latitudes. Each of these factors means less light energy reaches our houseplants. Houseplants respond to this stress by stopping growth and dropping leaves if necessary. So how can we tell if leaves are being dropped due to stress or due to other factors? Normally, stress is the culprit if leaves are dropped throughout the plant so general thinning occurs.

The next question is what do we do about it? Well, you can add supplemental lighting or just wait until longer days and higher light levels allow the plants to recover. Unfortunately, people often decide the plant needs more fertilizer or water to perk it up. Remember the problem is low light, not a lack of fertilizer or water. Adding extra fertilizer or water won't help, and may actually harm, the plant. The needs of the plant need to be balanced. If there is plenty of sunlight, the plant can use more water and fertilizer. Under low light levels, the plant doesn’t require much fertilizer and the nutrients stay in the soil where they can build up and may eventually burn roots.

Also, excess water can drown roots. Therefore, it is important to do a good job of watering and fertilizing during the winter. Only water when the soil is dry ½ inch deep in the pot. Eventually you can learn to judge whether a plant needs water just by weight. Also, reduce or eliminate fertilizing during the winter months. If the plant still looks thin in the spring, cut it back so it can put out new, thicker growth. Also, knock the plant out of the pot in the spring and make sure it isn't root bound. If it is, move it up to a larger pot. (Ward Upham)

Peter Wirtz Video Available for Viewing

Peter Wirtz of the internationally acclaimed Belgium landscape architecture firm, Wirtz International, shared his passion for horticulture and his design philosophy on the K-State campus, Thursday, November 13, 2014. Wirtz International was founded by his father, Jacques Wirtz, and for decades, trees, hedges, grasses, and flowers have bent to the will of Jacques Wirtz. Peter and his brother Martin now co-own the world-renowned company.

Peter grew up in the family nursery and garden. Mr. Wirtz completed studies of music at Antwerp Conservatory (Belgium) and landscape architecture at Cornell University.

Mr. Wirtz works on private, public, corporate, and institutional projects in Europe and America together with his brother and co-director Martin Wirtz and a design studio of 11 collaborators. Former or ongoing garden projects: private gardens in the US; Domaine deWideville, Paris, France (private); Chateau de La Croe, Nice, France (private); De Stadstuin Ronse, Belgium (public park & private development); Jubilee Park, London, UK (public park); Ernsting’s Family Campus, Coesfeld, Germany (corporate); Kunsthaus Zürich, Switzerland (institutional); and Shanghai Chanfeng, China (mixed development).

In May 2014, horticulture study abroad students along with Drs. Miller and Lavis spent 3-hours with Peter at his Belguim studio and walking his father’s private gardens. This event is sponsored by the Department of Horticulture, Forestry and Recreation Resources, George Terbovich Design, Inc., and the Department of Landscape Architecture and Regional & Community Planning College of Architecture, Planning & Design.

See http://youtu.be/7xNQqxxELaI for the video. (Cathie Lavis)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 43

10/28/2014

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Video of the Week:
Will Fall Mums Last Through the Winter?

Turfgrass:
Apply Late-Season Nitrogen Application in November

November is the time to give cool-season lawns the last nitrogen application of the season. Why November? Because while top growth slows in response to cool temperatures, grass plants are still making food (carbohydrates) by photosynthesis. A November nitrogen application helps boost the photosynthesis rate. Carbohydrates that are not used in growth are stored in the crown and other storage tissues in the plant. These carbohydrate reserves help the turfgrass green up earlier in the spring and sustain growth into May without the need for early-spring (March or April) nitrogen. Those early-spring nitrogen applications are less desirable because they can lead to excessive shoot growth and reduced root growth. Other benefits of November-applied nitrogen for cool-season grasses include improved winter hardiness, root growth and shoot density.

How much should you apply? One to 1 to 1 ½ pounds actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn area is sufficient. In order for this application to be effective, the nitrogen must be readily available to the plant, because the growing season is nearly over. Therefore, for a November application, use a soluble (quickly-available) nitrogen carrier such as urea or ammonium sulfate. Many turfgrass fertilizers sold in garden centers and other retail outlets also contain soluble nitrogen. Avoid products that contain water-insoluble nitrogen (slow-release) for this application. As always, sweep up any fertilizer that gets on driveways, sidewalks, or streets and reapply it to the lawn. (Ward Upham)

Tucking your Lawnmower in for the Winter

If you are done mowing for the year, be sure to service your mower before putting it away. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals, which usually corrode during the season. A wire-bristle brush is a good tool for doing this. The battery can then be removed or connected to a battery monitor that will keep it charged over winter. If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected location for the winter (a cool basement works best).

Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they'll be ready next spring. Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly straightforward. The following steps will guide you through this process:

        * Check the blade for major damage. If you can't fix it, it likely will need to be replaced.
        * Remove grass and debris from the blade with a moist cloth. Dry before beginning to sharpen the cutting edge.
        * Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
        * If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
        * Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
        * Particularly with a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
        * Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.

Following these tips can help you better prepare your mower for winter storage and also save you some steps this coming spring. (Ward Upham)

Flowers:
There is Still Time to Plant Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs (especially daffodils) in October to give them enough time to root before winter. But it is certainly not too late to plant them now. As long as the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs should continue root development. You can find the previous week’s soil temperature readings for areas across the state from our Weather Data Library at http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/wdl/Text%20files/text/REPORT.TXT

Although many of the best bulbs have probably already been purchased, garden centers may still have a good selection. Be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout. While many bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, none can tolerate poorly drained soil. Prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix into the soil.

Adequate fertility is essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been fertilized regularly in the past may have excess levels of phosphorus. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the uptake of other essential micronutrients. In such cases, it would be better to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 2/3 pound per 100 square feet. Organic sources of fertilizers low in phosphorus include blood meal (12-0-0) applied at 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, cottonseed meal (6-0.4-1.5) applied at the rate of 10 pounds per 100 square feet and soybean meal (7-2-1) applied at the rate of 8 pounds per 100 square feet.

In the absence of a soil test, or if phosphorus is needed, add a low analysis, balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of bed. Mix all amendments thoroughly with the soil before planting the bulbs.

The size and species of the bulb determines how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the bulb should be about 2 to 3 times the size of the bulb, but check the planting instructions specific to each particular flower. (Ward Upham)

Perennial Garden Clean-up

Fall is traditionally a time for cleaning up gardens. Normally, we recommend clear-cutting dead stems to help control insect and disease problems. With herbaceous perennials that have been pest free, you might want to consider leaving some to provide structure, form, and color to the winter garden. For example, ornamental grasses can be attractive even during the winter months. But those near structures should be cut to the ground because they can be a fire hazard. Perennials with evergreen or semi-evergreen foliage can provide color. Of course, some perennials are naturally messy after dormancy and should be cut back in the fall.

Foliage can be left for other reasons. For example, foliage left on marginally hardy plants such as tender ferns helps ensure overwintering of plant crowns. Also, seed heads on some perennial plants can provide seed for birds. (Ward Upham)

Pests:
Millipede Invasion

Millipedes, or "thousand-legged worms," are an arthropod relative of insects. They can be distinguished from centipedes by the number of legs per body segment. Millipedes have four legs per segment, while centipedes have only two. Also, the millipedes’ legs are quite short and often are not seen if viewing the millipede from above. Though usually found in damp locations outside, they can become a problem inside the house and cause homeowners a great deal of concern.

Household invasions are often sudden and sporadic and may be in response to rain. Millipedes feed primarily on decaying organic material, rarely on living tissue. They do not bite people or damage household furnishings directly, but they will leave a mess and give off an odor if crushed.

Millipedes are worm-like and most often brownish-black in color. The legs ripple as they move. Millipedes often curl up into a "C" shape like a watch spring if touched. Remember you may not see the legs unless viewing the millipede from the side. They defend themselves by releasing a disagreeable odor when disturbed.

Millipedes require high moisture to survive and often die in a day or two after entering a house. Dead millipede bodies can then be vacuumed up and disposed of. Drying out moist areas inside will also help with control. Sealing and caulking around openings in the foundation will help keep populations low. If this is not enough, spraying cyfluthrin (Home Pest Control Indoor & Outdoor Insect Killer), proxopur (Baygon), or resmethrin in a three-foot band around the outside of the house will take care of them before they get inside. (Ward Upham)

Hackberry Psyllids Flying Around Homes

The hackberry psyllid causes “bumps” to form on the underside of hackberry leaves early in the season. The bumps are actually caused by nymphs that hatch from eggs laid by females as leaves start to unfurl in the spring. This abnormal growth is caused by the feeding of the nymphs. This condition is extremely common to the point it can almost be used as an identifying characteristic for hackberry. Fortunately, this does not harm the hackberry.

The hackberry psyllid overwinters in the adult stage. These insects are tiny and resemble miniature cicadas. They are dark reddish-brown with mottled wings. Adults are tiny enough that they can crawl through the openings in most screens and therefore often find shelter during the winter inside houses. In the spring, the adults become active about the time the leaf buds of hackberry trees open. The best way to control hackberry psyllids found inside the home is the same as for boxelder bugs: a vacuum cleaner.

Several steps can be taken during the fall just before frost to reduce entry. Turning off outdoor night-lights and reducing the amount of light shining through night windows helps. Consider using fine mesh (18 mesh) screens on windows that are kept open. Ordinary screens are 12 mesh to the inch. Caulk or plug up cracks and crevices. Keep windows and doors closed when psyllids are active. For temporary reduction, spray exterior surfaces such as window screens, shutters and sides of buildings where psyllids are resting. Look for residual insect sprays labeled to use on outdoor surfaces. Examples of ingredients with residual action include cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray), bifenthrin (Talstar, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II), permethrin (numerous trade names), Baygon and tralomethrin. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Preserving Garden Tools

Hoes, shovels and other common garden tools often have wooden handles that can deteriorate over time. Storing tools in a protected location can slow that process, but normal use will still expose the tools to the elements. The end of the season is a good time to clean up and protect the handles so they will last for many years. Weathering can raise the grain of wood, resulting in splinters. A light sanding can smooth the handle. Follow that with a light application of wood preservative, linseed oil or polyurethane to protect the wood. Wipe off any excess after a few minutes as oil-based products can attract dirt. Cleaning any dirt off metal parts and coating with a light application of oil can prevent rust. Good tools are expensive. A few minutes of care after the season is over can help preserve them for many years to come. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 47

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Peter Wirtz Video Available for Viewing

Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 43

Video of the Week:Will Fall Mums Last Through the Winter?

Turfgrass:Apply Late-Season Nitrogen Application in November

Tucking your Lawnmower in for the Winter

Flowers:There is Still Time to Plant Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Perennial Garden Clean-up

Pests:Millipede Invasion

Hackberry Psyllids Flying Around Homes

Miscellaneous:Preserving Garden Tools

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Archives

Categories

Video of the Week:
Storing Tender Bulbs for the Winter

Turfgrass:
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October - Early November

Vegetables:
Hardiness of Cool-Season Vegetables

Ornamentals
"Apples" on an Ornamental Shrub

Video of the Week:
Growing Vegetables in Containers

Turfgrass:
Keep Mower Blades Sharp

Vegetables:
Fertilizing Cole Crops

Fruit:
Fertilizing Strawberries and Brambles

Pests:
Asparagus Beetles

Video of the Week:
Storing Tender Bulbs for Winter

Turfgrass:
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Late October - Early November

Vegetables:
Hardiness of Cool-Season Vegetables

Ornamentals:
Natural Needle Drop on Conifers

Miscellaneous:
Why No Black Walnuts This Year?

Video of the Week:
Succulent Plants for Your Home

Turfgrass:
Dormant Seeding of Turfgrass

Ornamentals:
Why Haven't the Tree Leaves Fallen?

Miscellaneous:
Poor Drainage in Garden Areas

Video of the Week:
Will Fall Mums Last Through the Winter?

Turfgrass:
Apply Late-Season Nitrogen Application in November

Flowers:
There is Still Time to Plant Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Pests:
Millipede Invasion

Miscellaneous:
Preserving Garden Tools