Leaf scorch is starting to show up primarily on maples around the state. This is not a disease but rather a physiological problem associated with damaged roots, storm damage, limited soil area, or hot, dry winds. Moisture is lost so quickly from the leaves that roots can't absorb and transfer water quickly enough to replace what is lost. Though scorch is usually associated with droughty periods, it can appear even when the soil is moist.         

Scorched leaves turn brown or, in some cases, turn black from the edges and between the major veins. If severe, the leaf may drop. Leaves may be affected over the entire tree or may be affected only on one side. White pines are also prone to this condition due to the delicacy of the needles.

Though scorch can be due solely to the weather, the condition of the roots of plants can make them much more susceptible to this condition. Shallow soils such as those over hardpan or rock lead to a limited root system that may not be able to absorb all the water needed. Trees may be more sensitive to scorch this year because of the heavy rains some areas received in June. Though soils were recharged, in many cases so much rain was received that oxygen was driven from the soil resulting in root damage. That root damage is now making it more difficult for trees to provide all the water needed for the leaves. Also, root damage due to disease, insects, poor drainage or construction can cause poor water uptake.

To help alleviate damage due to dry soils or limited root systems, water once per week for recently transplanted trees of every two weeks for large trees if there is no rainfall. Mulching small trees or shrubs will help conserve moisture. (Ward Upham)

The weather this summer has resulted in many peonies catching the "measles." This is a disease, also known as red spot, that causes distinct, reddish-purple spots on the upper leaf surfaces. These spots often coalesce and become large, reddish purple blotches on the upper leaf surfaces but are a light brown color when viewed from the underside of the leaves. The spots on stems will merge and form streaks that are reddish brown.

Sanitation is the best control for this disease. Remove all diseased tissue, including stems, at the end of the growing season. Mulch that contains plant debris should also be discarded and then replaced with fresh mulch. Reducing the source of the inoculum will reduce the chances of another severe outbreak next year. (Ward Upham)

These large (1-1/3- to 1-5/8-inch long) wasps fly slowly above the ground. Cicada killers have a black body with yellow marks across the thorax and abdomen. Wings are reddish-orange. Although these wasps are huge, they usually ignore people. Males may act aggressively if they are threatened, but are unable to sting. Females can sting, but are so passive that they rarely do. Even if they do sting, the pain is less than that of smaller wasps such as the yellow jacket or paper wasp and is similar to the sting of a sweat bee.

The cicada killer is a solitary wasp rather than a social wasp like the yellow jacket. The female nests in burrows in the ground. These burrows are quarter-size in diameter and can go 6 inches straight down and another 6 inches horizontally. Adults normally live 60 to 75 days from mid-July to mid-September and feed on flower nectar and sap. The adult female seeks cicadas on the trunks and lower limbs of trees. She stings her prey, flips it over, straddles it and carries it to her burrow. If she has a tree to climb, she will fly with it. If not, she will drag it. She will lay one egg per cicada if the egg is left unfertilized.  Unfertilized eggs develop into males only.  Fertilized eggs develop into females and are given at least two cicadas.  Cicadas are then stuffed into the female’s burrow. Each burrow normally has three to four cells with one to two cicadas in each. However, it is possible for one burrow to have 10 to 20 cells. Eggs hatch in two to three days, and larvae begin feeding on paralyzed cicadas.

Feeding continues for four to 10 days until only the outer shell of the cicada remains. The larva overwinters inside a silken case. Pupation occurs in the spring. There is one generation per year.

Cicada killers are not dangerous, but they can be a nuisance. If you believe control is necessary, treat the burrows after dark to ensure the female wasps are in their nests. The males normally roost on plants near burrow sites. They can be captured with an insect net or knocked out of the air with a tennis racket during the day. Carbaryl (Sevin) or permethrin may be used for control. (Ward Upham)

Adults of this insect are sometimes called "Cow-Killers" because of their powerful sting. These large (about 1-inch long), fuzzy red ants are not ants at all, but rather wasps. Velvet ant females are wingless (and resemble ants), while the males have blue-black wings and are usually found flying low above the ground in sandy areas. The female runs around searching for bumble bee nests in which to lay eggs. She will drop one egg beside each brood chamber. The young larvae will invade the brood chamber and feed on bee larvae. As mentioned earlier, velvet ants have very powerful stings. The best control is to avoid these colorful and conspicuous insects. (Ward Upham)

We have received a number of calls on grasshoppers recently. Permethrin (numerous trade names) is a good choice for vegetable crops because it is labeled for a wide variety of vegetables. However, keep in mind that hoppers can reinfest an area relatively quickly. Many times gardeners have not had an insecticide failure, but a reinfestation. Carbaryl (Sevin) can also be used for grasshopper control but can lead to mite outbreaks as it is very toxic to mite predators.

We often have gardeners who are interested in organic controls. Nosema locustae, a protozoan, is the active ingredient in a number of products including Semaspore, NOLO Bait, HopperStopper and Grasshopper Attack. These products are selective and will affect only grasshoppers. This is a trait many gardeners find attractive. However, Nosema locustae products may not be as effective in garden situations as they would be under large-scale rangeland conditions due to potential reinfestations from outside the treated area. Also, these products have other potential disadvantages:
- They are most effective against nymphal rather than adult grasshoppers. Also some grasshopper species are less susceptible than others.
- Kill can take 3 to 6 weeks after ingestion.
- These baits are perishable and should be kept refrigerated until use. Pay attention to the expiration date.

As mentioned above, reinfestations of uninfected grasshoppers can occur. These products are not effective against adults. Try to treat the nesting area when hoppers are small and populations are concentrated. Nosema locustae products are allowed in certified organic crop production.

Poultry including turkeys, guinea hens and chickens have also been used to help control grasshoppers.

Regardless of method used, the trick is to treat early before the population has matured. Young nymphal stages are much easier to control than adults and are also much less mobile. (Ward Upham)

Hot, dry weather often means spider mites on tomatoes.  Look for stippling on the upper surface of the leaves as well as some fine webbing on the underside of the leaves.  These tiny arthropods (they are not true insects) are often difficult to see due to their size and their habit of feeding on the underside of leaves.  If mites are suspected, hold a sheet of white paper beneath a leaf and tap the leaf. Mites will be dislodged and can be seen as tiny specks on the paper that move about.

Spider mite control can be challenging.  A strong jet of water can be used to remove the mites but may not be as easy as it sounds.  A high-pressure directed spray is needed to dislodge the mites.  Since spider mites feed on the underside of the leaves, the spray is most effective if it comes from below.  This can be difficult to accomplish with a thumb over the end of the hose.  The only commercial product I have been able to find that is made for this purpose is the Mite-Y-Fine Sprayer from miteyfine.com. 

Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps (Safers, for example) can also be helpful.  Spray early in the morning when temperatures are cooler and plants have rehydrated.  Resprays will likely be needed.  (Ward Upham)

If you have squash or related plants that suddenly wilt and die, you may have squash vine borer. This insect will bore into the stems of squash, zucchini, pumpkins and gourds. Hubbard squash are a favorite, and butternuts are less likely to be attacked than other squash. Cucumbers and melons are usually not a target, although both can be affected by a disease that causes similar symptoms, known as bacterial wilt.

The adult of this insect is a clear-winged moth that resembles a wasp. The forewings are a dark metallic green but the rear wings are clear. The abdomen is orange with black spots. The larva is cream-colored and rather wrinkled. Adults emerge in the spring and lay eggs on or near susceptible plants. Larva bore into the plant and feed for about a month as they move toward the base. Mature larva will exit the plant, burrow into the soil and pupate where they remain until the next year. Each plant can have numerous borers. If you suspect squash vine borer, split the stem of a collapsed plant near where it enters the ground. Infested plants will be hollowed out and mushy and may contain borers. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do at this late stage.  Control measures should center on prevention.

Suggested preventative controls would include crushing the dull red eggs before they hatch, excavating larvae from stems before they cause much damage or using insecticide applications.   Applications should begin when the vines begin to run (too late for that) and reapplied every 7 to 10 days for three to five weeks. Direct the spray at the crown of the plant and the base of runners. Chemicals used for borer control in gardens are permethrin (Bug-No-More Yard & Garden Insect Spray; Eight Vegetable, Fruit & Flower Concentrate; Lawn, Garden, Pet and Livestock Insect Control; Lawn & Garden Insect Killer), bifenthrin (Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II, Bug-B-Gon Max Garden Insect Killer) or carbaryl (Sevin), applied as sprays or dusts. Continue on a 7 to 10 day reapplication schedule for 3 to 5 weeks. If plants wilt, look for the presence of holes and ooze. However, in extreme heat, these plants will wilt in the afternoon even if undamaged by this insect. (Ward Upham)

Tomatoes often have problems with cracking caused by pressure inside the fruit that is more than the skin can handle. Cracks are usually on the upper part of the fruit and can be concentric (in concentric circles around the stem) or radial (radiating from the stem). We don’t know everything about cracking but here is what we do know.         

Tomatoes have a root system that is very dense and fibrous and is quite efficient in picking up water. Unfortunately, the root system can become unbalanced with the top of the plant. Early in the season it may be small in relation to the top growth resulting in blossom-end rot during hot dry weather. Later it may be so efficient that it provides too much water when we get rain or irrigate heavily after a dry spell. This quick influx of water can cause the tomato fruit to crack.  Therefore, even, consistent watering can help with cracking. Mulching will also help because it moderates moisture levels in the soil. However, you can do everything right and still have problems with cracking in some years.

We have evaluated varieties for cracking during our tomato trials at K-State. It takes several years worth of data to get a good feel for crack-resistant varieties but we have found some real differences. Some varieties crack under about any condition and others are much more resistant.  The difference seems to be pliability of skin rather than thickness — the more pliable the skin the more resistance to cracking.

The old variety Jet Star has been the most crack resistant of any we have tested including the newer types. Unfortunately, Jet Star is an indeterminate variety that puts out rampant growth.  Newer varieties with more controlled growth are often more attractive to gardeners. Mountain Spring, Mountain Pride, Mountain Fresh, Floralina and Sun Leaper are smaller-vined types that have shown good resistance to cracking. (Ward Upham)

Telling when a melon is ready to be harvested can be a challenge, or it may be quite easy. It all depends on the type of melon. Let’s start with the easy one. Muskmelons are one of those crops that tell you when they are ready to be picked. This can help you not only harvest melons at the correct time but also choose good melons when shopping. As a melon ripens, a layer of cells around the stem softens so the melon detaches easily from the vine. This is called “slipping” and will leave a dish-shaped scar at the point of stem attachment. When harvesting melons, put a little pressure where the vine attaches to the fruit. If ripe, it will release or “slip.”

When choosing a melon from those that have already been harvested, look for a clean, dish-shaped scar. Also, ripe melons have a pleasant, musky aroma if the melons are at room temperature (not refrigerated).           

Watermelons can be more difficult and growers often use several techniques to tell when to harvest.

1. Look for the tendril that attaches at the same point as the melon to dry and turn brown. On some varieties this will need to be completely dried before the watermelon is ripe. On others it will only need to be in the process of turning brown.

2. The surface of a ripening melon develops a surface roughness (sometimes called “sugar bumps”) near the base of the fruit.

3. Ripe watermelons normally develop a yellow color on the “ground spot” when ripe. This is the area of the melon that contacts the ground.

Honeydew melons are the most difficult to tell when they are ripe because they do not “slip” like muskmelons. Actually, there is one variety that does slip called Earlidew, but it is the exception to the rule. Ripe honeydew melons become soft on the flower end of the fruit. The “flower end” is the end opposite where the stem attaches. Also, honeydews should change to a light or yellowish color when ripe, but this varies with variety. (Ward Upham)

When temperatures exceed 90 degrees F, fruit plants lose water quickly. When this happens, moisture is withdrawn from the fruit to supply the tree. Stress from high temperatures, along with a moisture deficit in the root environment, may cause fruit to drop or fail to increase in size.

The stress may also reduce the development of fruit buds for next year's fruit crop. If you have fruit plants such as trees, vines, canes, and such, check soil moisture at the roots. Insert a spade or shovel or a pointed metal or wood probe -- a long screwdriver works well for this. Shove these into the soil about 8 to 12 inches. If the soil is hard, dry, and difficult to penetrate, the moisture level is very low, and plants should be irrigated to prevent drooping and promote fruit enlargement.  Water can be added to the soil using sprinklers, soaker hose, drip irrigation, or even a small trickle of water running from the hose for a few hours. The amount of time you irrigate should depend upon the size of plants and the volume of water you are applying. Add enough moisture so you can easily penetrate the soil in the root area of the plant with a metal rod, wooden dowel or other probe. When hot, dry weather continues, continue to check soil moisture at least once a week.

Strawberries have a shallow root system and may need to be watered more often – maybe twice a week during extreme weather. Also, newly planted fruit trees sited on sandy soils may also need water twice a week. (Ward Upham)

Heavy fruit loads this season may cause limbs to break if they are not given extra support. As fruits increase in size, the additional weight on individual branches may be substantial. One-inch thick boards can be used to prop up limbs.

Here's how. Cut a "V" on the top edge of the board on which the limb will rest so that it doesn't slip off. Long limbs that are heavily loaded with fruit may need a prop in the center and another to support the outer part of the limb. A plastic belt-like material that is about 2 inches wide may also be used. This can be tied to a heavily loaded limb, then to a large diameter limb above for support. Where a large limb is used for support, it is good to have it supporting limbs on opposite sides so the weight is balanced. Another solution is to wrap a tape or belt material around the tree in a spiral to prevent limbs from bending until they break. Heavy twine may be used, but it should be removed when the fruit is picked or soon after so it does not cut into the bark on the limb.

Check trees regularly, up to two times a week during the last month the fruit are maturing. You will find additional limbs that need support. Tending to the heavily loaded tree limbs will reduce the number of broken limbs and help keep a balance of the fruiting wood in your tree.  Next year, prune long, weak branches back to a side branch to help prevent this problem. (Ward Upham)

Blackberry and raspberry fruit will often develop white or tan drupelets on the berry. Though we are not completely sure of the cause, two commonly given reasons are stinkbug damage and sunscald.  Damage has been attributed to stinkbugs if the pattern of off color (not white) drupelets is random. Stinkbug damage is caused by the insect feeding on the blackberry receptacle and injuring drupelets on either side. Sunscald damage will be on the side of the fruit exposed to the sun and has several drupelets in a small area being affected.

Neither condition affects the eating quality of the fruit unless the stink bug releases the “stink” with which it is associated rendering the fruit inedible. By the time damage is seen, it is too late for control. (Ward Upham)

Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care.

Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to  punch a small hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once, and you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water.

A perforated soaker hose is a great way to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot  diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out.

Regardless of method used, soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. (Ward Upham)

No, not the kind of screens with which our lives are consumed! I’ve had a lot of requests lately for information about columnar (fastigate) trees. My first question is always “Why?” I find that columnar trees impart a very formal feel to a landscape design. Do they fit? What is their purpose? Most often the answer is that the person wants to screen a neighbor or a particular view or perhaps they just need something narrow to fit in a particular spot. My next question relates to the type of plant desired: evergreen or deciduous. An evergreen plant will block the view year-round and provide some winter interest, but are generally more slow-growing. A deciduous tree will most likely grow faster than an evergreen tree, but in the winter the leaves will drop and you’ll have a partial screen. You’ll need to weigh the pros and cons for your situation as you chose plants for these purposes.

It’s important to be aware of the mature size of the plant as well. Sure, they look so small and skinny when you plant them, but when they start to grow into each other and you can’t mow around them anymore it becomes a problem. Be aware of how much space you have for them to grow (wide) and how tall you need them to be in order to solve the privacy or view problem.

So, let’s get into some plant recommendations, starting with evergreen. Assuming that you want these plants to get to at least 15 to 30 feet tall, you can consider a Chinese juniper such as Juniperus chinensis ‘Hetzii Columnaris’ or a white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Fastigiata’). A tough-as-nails option that is used quite frequently is a cultivar of Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) called ‘Taylor’ which is a release from the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum and was found in a pasture near Taylor, NE. Some winter browning has been reported in exceptionally cold years, but the plants recover quickly.        

There are quite a few more options in the deciduous category and most can get quite tall. Let’s start with the shortest of the bunch, which is a ginkgo with outstanding bright yellow fall color: Gold Spire ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba ‘Blagon’) that grows 14 to 16 feet tall and 5 to 6 feet wide. European Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus  ‘Franz Fontaine’) is a popular option with clean, bright green foliage growing 30 feet tall by 10 feet wide. Mature tuliptrees (Liriodendron tulipifera) will really make heads turn when they sport large, tulip-shaped flowers in the spring. The columnar cultivar ‘Fastigiatum’ grows 50 to 60 feet tall and 20 feet wide.  

I would be remiss not to mention a cultivar plucked right out of the Great Plains in Kansas. Prairie Sentinel® Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis ‘JFS-KSU1’) stuck it’s tall canopy out of the rural prairie and just called out for propagation. It can grow up to 45 feet tall and 12 feet wide. It’s also just as tough-as-nails as Eastern redcedar. 

How about a Zelkova? These upright trees have a vase-shaped architecture (they are quite narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, a little like an upside down pyramid) they make great canopies over roads. The columnar version of this species is Zelkova serrata ‘Musashino’ and grows 45 feet tall and 15 feet wide.          

Another relatively columnar tree not seen nearly enough is Shawnee Brave® Baldcypress (Taxodium distichum ‘Mickelson’). Baldcypress can be a confusing tree to folks who aren’t “in the know.” It looks like an evergreen, and in fact it is a conifer, but it’s a deciduous conifer. It’s feathery sage-green leaves turn pumpkin-brown in the fall and drop to the ground. This species can get huge, both tall and wide, but Shawnee Brave® grows to a mere 55 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Since this species tolerates wet and/or dry areas, it might just fit the tough spot you’re looking to fill.

Now to the oaks.  Columnar English Oak (Quercus robur ‘Fastigiata’) started the trend by growing 50 to 60 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide. This is an example of a tree that tends to hold onto its leaves well into the winter so it can provide a partial screen in the winter. Some plants are susceptible to mildew, thus numerous hybrids have been developed in order to improve on the growth habits of columnar English oak. One of these is Crimson Spire™ Oak (Quercus robur x Quercus alba ‘Crimschmidt’), which is a beautiful deciduous street tree with reddish-purple fall color that grows 45 feet tall and 15 feet wide. A smaller relative is the Kindred Spirit™ Oak (Quercus robur x bicolor ‘Nadler’), which matures at about 30 feet tall and 6 feet wide.

One last plant note: I know you all want to plant poplar.  Please, don’t. Here’s why: poplars (in general) are fast growing but that comes with weak, brittle wood, disease-prone growth, short life span, roots that clog drain tiles, sewers and water channels. Horticulturalists consider most species of poplar a pest (don’t tell the foresters…) when used as ornamentals. It has few redeeming qualities in a home landscape and will only serve to annoy and frustrate you over its short lifespan. There are so many better choices!

This is not an all-inclusive list and, as with my last article, these plants may be more difficult to find than your average tree. They’re not quite specimen plants, but they’re not full, wide shade trees either (most commonly planted). However, they are available. Be patient and have your local landscape contractor or nursery do some sourcing for you. It will be worth it to have a quality, long-lasting, living screen.  (Cheryl Boyer)

These beetles are notorious for quickly stripping vegetables (especially tomatoes) and ornamentals of their foliage. There are several species of blister beetles which vary in size (often between 0.5-0.75 inch long) and color (such as black, gray or brown-striped), but most are recognized by their elongated, narrow, cylindrical, soft bodies with middle body part (thorax) narrower than the head or wingcovers.

Some home gardeners like to use hand picking as a nonchemical method for controlling these large insects. However, wear gloves and use caution because these beetles contain a substance called cantharidin. This chemical is an irritant capable of blistering internal and external body tissues exposed to the chemical. On tender human skin, body fluids of adult blister beetles may cause large, erect, watery blisters.

Chemical control of blister beetles is also possible. Cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) and gamma- or lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Beetle Killer, Bonide Caterpillar Killer) can be used for control. Cyfluthrin has a 0 day waiting period and lambda-cyhalothrin has a 5-day waiting period on tomatoes. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Cheryl Boyer, Extension Specialist

Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate them and increase flowering.

Iris may be divided from late July through August,but late July through early August is ideal. Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength.

Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting.

Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer,such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show phosphorus levels that are quite high. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than second(phosphorus). (Ward Upham)

Though we normally see this condition most commonly on tomatoes as evidenced by a sunken,brown, leathery patch on the bottom of the fruit,this year we are also seeing it on summer squash. Not a disease, this condition is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. It is often assumed that this means there is a corresponding lack of calcium in the soil. This is not necessarily the case, especially in Kansas. Most Kansas soils have sufficient levels of calcium. So what causes blossom-end rot? Actually, there are a number of possible causes. Let's look at some of them.

- This year, inconsistent amounts of water may be a factor for our squash. This can be due to watering practices or may be due to heavy rains followed by dry periods. Try to keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Mulching can help by moderating moisture levels over time.

- Vegetable tops will sometimes outgrow the root system during cooler spring weather. This is especially true of tomatoes. As long as it is cool, the root system can keep up. When it turns hot and dry, the plant has a problem, and water —with the calcium it carries — goes to the leaves and the fruit is bypassed. The plant responds with new root growth and the condition corrects itself after a couple of weeks.

- Heavy fertilization, especially with ammonium forms of nitrogen, can encourage this condition. Heavy fertilization encourages more top than root growth and the ammonium form of nitrogen competes with calcium for uptake.

- Anything that disturbs roots such as hoeing too deeply can encourage blossom-end rot. Mulching helps because it keeps the soil surface cooler and therefore a better environment for root growth.

There are some years you do everything right and the condition still shows up due to the weather. In such cases, remember that blossom-end rot is a temporary condition, and plants should come out of it in a couple of weeks. You may want to pick off affected fruit to encourage new fruit formation.

Soils with adequate calcium will not benefit from adding additional calcium. If your soil is deficient in this nutrient, add 1 pound gypsum per 100 square feet. Gypsum is calcium sulfate and will not affect pH. Though calcium raises pH, sulfate lowers it and the two cancel each other out. Even if not needed, gypsum will not hurt anything.

We have also found that spraying plants with calcium doesn't work. The fruit's waxy surface doesn't allow absorption of the material and calcium does not move from the leaves to the fruit. (Ward Upham)

Trees naturally shed bark as they grow. The amount of bark shed varies significantly from one year to the next and is usually not noticeable. But some trees, such as sycamore, London Planetree and silver maple, shed bark in large patches or strips. During a year with heavy shedding homeowners may become concerned that the tree is sick or dying. Such usually is not the case. Sycamore and London Planetree normally show a bright green color on the branches when the bark first falls off but soon return to normal. Maple reveals an orange color after shedding but it, too, soon returns to normal. Eastern redbud tends to shed bark on older trees revealing an orangish-brown inner bark. There is nothing wrong with the tree as long as the shedding bark simply reveals underlying bark rather than bare wood. (Ward Upham)

If you notice leaves disappearing from walnut trees, it may be walnut caterpillars. Walnut caterpillars attack primarily black walnut, pecan, and several species of hickory trees, but may also attack birch, oak, willow, honey locust, and apple trees.

Walnut caterpillars overwinter as pupae underground beneath host trees. In late spring, moths emerge and deposit egg clusters on lower leaves. By the end of June, newly emerged and gregarious larvae skeletonize leaves. Larger hairy,brick-red larvae consume greater amounts of leaf tissue, and nearly matured gray larvae devour entire leaves, including petioles.

As mentioned earlier, walnut caterpillars are gregarious. In other words, they feed in groups. A single tree may contain several groups. When disturbed, larvae arch their bodies in what looks like a defensive move. Larvae crowd together on the lower parts of trees to molt and leave an ugly patch of hairy skins. Mature larvae, 2 inches long, descend or drop to the ground where they enter the soil to pupate. A second generation occurs soon, creating the overwintering pupae.

Removing leaves with egg masses is an effective way to control walnut caterpillars. This may be impractical with large trees or when too many infested leaves are present. Bands of Tree Tanglefoot pest barrier may be used to snare larvae as they migrate to main branches or the trunk to molt. Insecticides such as spinosad (Conserve; Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer and Tent Caterpillar Spray) permethrin (numerous trade names) malathionor cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect Spray) may provide the most practical means of control. (Ward Upham)

These small, hopping insects are causing concern among gardeners because they are so noticeable.What people often see first is not the insect but the filaments of white, wool-like wax they leave behind. Nymphs are also coated with this white, powdery wax but adults of the species I've observed (citrus planthopper?) are more of a grayish color with a darker rear end. Only the adults have wings that are held over the body like a pup tent. Nymphs are more flattened and may not appear to be insects at first because of the waxy coating.

Plant injury due to these insects is usually minor. Feeding by large populations may cause death of seedlings or wilting of small twigs of larger plants. Control is usually not recommended because natural enemies often keep flatid planthoppers in check. If control is warranted, a strong stream of water from a hose should knock them off or a number of insecticides may be used including malathion, permethrin, cyfluthrin, and bifenthrin. For a detailed description, check out the University of Georgia Bugwood page.(Ward Upham)

There was a study done in 2005 by Ohio State University that compared the effectiveness of various biorational and natural products to more traditional pesticides. Squash bug was one of the insects that was a target organism. What was interesting is that certain products were more effective at different life stages. The researchers compared the effectiveness of products on young nymphs, old nymphs and adults. Following are the results for squash bug:

To see the complete study, go to http://entomology.osu.edu/welty/pdf/VegIPMReport2005.pdf  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing  season. But many people dislike both these characteristics. Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive. Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the rest of the lawn is green. And it is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun. So how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. You will need to reseed treated areas.  In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.

Spray about the middle of this month (or when the bermuda is growing well) and again about a month later if there is any green left in the bermudagrass. Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two more weeks and reseed. It may also be helpful to scalp (mow as low as possible and remove clippings) the lawn two weeks after the first application so that dead grass does not prevent the glyphosate from reaching the recovering bermuda. (Ward Upham)

Slime molds are primitive organisms that are common on turf and mulch. Slime molds are not fungi and are no longer classified as such. They belong to the Kingdom Protista rather than Kingdom Fungi. On turf, you might often see large numbers of small gray, white or purple fruiting structures, called sporangia on leaf blades during cool and humid weather throughout spring, summer, and fall. Affected areas are often several inches to 1 foot in diameter. During wet weather, the fruiting structures may appear slimy. As the structures dry out in hot weather, they become ash gray and break up easily when touched.

Homeowners often are concerned that this is a disease organism that will kill the grass, but slime mold feeds on bacteria, other fungi, and dead organic matter. It simply uses the turf as a structure on which to grow. However, slime mold can damage turf by completely covering leaf blades and interfering with photosynthesis. Chemical control of slime molds is not necessary. Use a broom or a heavy spray of water to dislodge the mold.

Slime molds on mulch often attract attention because of their bright colors and disgusting appearance. Common names are often quite descriptive. For example, the "dog vomit" slime mold is a bright, whitish color that resembles its namesake. It eventually turns brown and then into a hard, white mass. There is also the "scrambled egg" slime mold, "the yellow blob" slime mold and the "regurgitated cat breakfast" slime mold. Slime molds do not hurt anything, but most people do not find them attractive and want to get rid of them. Simply use a shovel to discard the offensive organism and then stir up the mulch for aeration. (Ward Upham)

Hornworms are the largest larval insect commonly seen in the garden. Though usually seen on tomato, they can also attack eggplant, pepper, and potato. The larval stage of this insect is a 3 ½- to 4-inch long pale green caterpillar with five pair of prolegs and a horn on the last segment. The two most common hornworms are the tobacco hornworm (seven diagonal white stripes and, most commonly, a red horn) and the tomato hornworm (v-shaped markings with a horn that is often blue or black). The adult of the tobacco hornworm is the Carolina sphinx moth.  The five-spotted hawk moth is the adult of the tomato hornworm. Both moths are stout-bodied, grayish-colored insects with a wing spread of 4 to 5 inches.

The larva is the damaging stage and feeds on the leaves and stems of the tomato plant, leaving behind dark green or black droppings. Though initially quite small with a body about the same size as its horn, these insects pass through four or five larval stages to reach full size in about a month. The coloration of this larva causes it to blend in with its surroundings and is often difficult to see despite its large size. It eventually will burrow into the soil to pupate. There are two generations a year. This insect is parasitized by a number of insects. One of the most common is a small braconid wasp. Larva that hatch from wasp eggs laid on the hornworm feed on the inside of the hornworm until the wasp is ready to pupate. The cocoons appear as white projections protruding from the hornworm's body. If such projections are seen, leave the infected hornworms in the garden. The wasps will kill the hornworms when they emerge from the cocoons and will seek out other hornworms to parasitize.

Handpicking is an effective control in small gardens. Bt (Dipel, Thuricide), spinosad  (Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar Spray; Colorado Potato  Beetle Beater Conc; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew, Monterey Garden Insect Spray), cyfluthrin (Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray) and other insecticides may also be used to control hornworms.  (Ward Upham)

Occasionally we receive a call from someone who has a squash (or cucumber or melon) that just doesn’t look like what was supposedly planted.

They often wish to know if that fruit had cross-pollinated with another vegetable close by.  In such cases, the gardener is assuming that cross-pollination will affect the fruit.  Such is not the case.  The characteristics of the fruit is determined by the mother plant and is not affected by cross-pollination.  However, there will be a problem if seed is saved for the next year from a flower that was cross-pollinated.  All bets are off on what you will get if that happens.

So how do we end up with this weird fruit?  Though it could be that the gardener had forgotten exactly what he planted, more likely is that the seed he planted had been cross-pollinated before packaging.   Another possibility is that it came from seed that came from fruit that had rotted in the garden the previous year.  Regardless, don’t worry about planting different cultivars of squash or cucumbers or melons close to one another.  Though cross-pollination may occur, the fruit will not be affected.  (Ward Upham)

It seems the official sweet corn inspector should be the raccoon as they seem to harvest the sweet corn the day before it is to be picked. The only effective control measure I have had success with is the electric fence. Here are some suggestions based on my experience. Other designs may very well work but this is what has worked in my garden.

– Two or more wires must be used. Place the first about 5 inches above the ground and the second 4 inches above the first (or 9 inches above ground). Raccoons must not be able to crawl under, go between or go over the wires without being shocked.

– Fence posts used for electric fences work well for this application (go figure), as do the insulators used to support the electric wire.

– It is much easier to use the woven electric wire with strands of wire embedded than to use a solid metal wire. The woven wire is easier to bend around corners and to roll up when done for the year.

– Though both the plug-in and battery operated fencers work, the battery operated types allow more versatility in where corn is grown. One set of batteries is usually sufficient for the season. In my case, I pull the battery out of an old tractor that is not used often. It will also last the season if fully charged at the beginning. My fencer is probably on for a total of a month.

– Start the charger before the corn is close to being ripe. Once raccoons get a taste of the corn, they are more difficult to discourage.

– Control weeds near the wire. Weeds can intercept the voltage if they touch a wire and allow raccoons entry beyond the weed.

– Check the wire occasionally to make sure you have current. This can be done easily (but unpleasantly) by touching the wire. There are also tools that will measure the voltage available for sale. They are worth the money. (Ward Upham)

Probably the last thing most gardeners are thinking of now is planting vegetables. However, for those hardy few, now is the time to start the cole crops such as cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. These members of the cabbage family can be either seeded directly in the garden or started in pots for transplanting about mid-August.

Plant slightly deeper than you would in the spring so the seed stays cooler and the soil around the seed stays moist longer. Plant more thickly and thin later.  The plants may need to be protected from rabbits through the use of fencing.

Use light amounts of fertilizer before planting. For example, apply 1/4 cup of a low-analysis fertilizer (6-7-7) per 10 feet of row. Sidedress two weeks after transplanting or four weeks after sowing seed by applying 2 tablespoons of a 16-0-0 or 1 tablespoon of a 27-3-3, 30-3-4 fertilizer, or something similar per plant.

Watering must occur more frequently because seed should not be allowed to dry out. Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge.  Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of peat moss, vermiculite or compost directly over the row after seeding. Even better, use a soaker hose right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the ground.

Plants should be ready for harvest in late September to early October, with broccoli side shoots developing well into November, weather permitting. (Ward Upham)

The exact time to harvest blackberries varies by cultivar, with thorny blackberries normally ripening earlier than thornless types. But there are some general guidelines to keep in mind when harvesting blackberries. Do not pick blackberries too early or berry size and flavor will be sacrificed.          

Two major characteristics determining maturity for harvest are fruit color and ease of separation. Blackberries usually develop a dull, black color with plump, juicy fruitlets as they ripen. The berries soften and produce the characteristic flavor. Full color often develops before the berries separate easily. Pick the berries by gently lifting the berry with the thumb and fingers. The receptacle, or center part of the fruit, remains in the fruit when blackberries are harvested, unlike raspberries, which leave the receptacle on the bush. Take care not to crush the berries or expose them to the hot sun. When possible, avoid picking berries when they are wet. They'll probably need picking every second or third day. Cool the berries immediately after harvest to extend shelf life. Keep them refrigerated under high relative humidity and use within three to five days. (Ward Upham)

The caterpillar of this species is a hornworm reminiscent of the tomato and tobacco hornworms.  Like other hornworms, this larva has a horn on the tail-end.  However, this is a thinner hornworm and prefers plants such as evening primrose, portulaca, pigweed and purslane.  Beneficial plants such as apple, elm, grapes and some garden vegetables are also fed on at times.   

The caterpillar is highly variable in coloration but are often green with black stripes and yellow and orange markings.  High populations can result in larvae that are very dark to almost black.  Though the horn on the back end of the larva may look dangerous, it is not.  It will neither sting or penetrate the skin.  Sphinx moths received their name from the habit of some of the caterpillar raising its head and striking a sphinx-like pose when at rest.

Control of this insect is rarely called for as it most commonly feeds on weeds.  However, if control is warranted due to feeding on desirable plants, follow the recommendations given in the accompanying article on tomato hornworms.  (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

Onions are ready to harvest when about half the plants have tops that have fallen over. This is a sign that the onions are mature and need to be pulled out of the ground. Bulbs may sunburn without the foliage to protect them. The secret to onions keeping well is to allow the tops to dry completely before storage. Move onions to a shaded, well-ventilated area after harvest. After tops are completely dry, store in a cool, dry location. Large-necked onions take more time to dry than small-necked onions such as Bermuda types. Avoid storage in plastic bags because the lack of air circulation will shorten storage life.  Use an open, mesh bag instead. (Ward Upham)

Potatoes are ready to harvest when the vines are about half dead. Potatoes dug too early have tender skins and are easily bruised. Delaying digging will allow the soil to heat because it is no longer shaded by foliage. High soil temperatures can lead to sprouting potatoes. Allow potatoes to "set" by keeping them in a shady, dry location for a day or so. Move them to a cool, moist environment such as a cellar or cool basement for longer storage. (Ward Upham)

Tomato stems sometimes develop “warts” or “bumps” on the stems close to ground level.  Though this looks abnormal, the condition is natural and not harmful. 

These bumps can eventually give rise to roots (called adventitious roots) if conditions are favorable. This is actually the mechanism the plant uses to form roots when tall, leggy plants are planted in a trench. Some varieties tend to be more prone to this condition than others and stress such as that produced by waterlogged soils also makes a “warty” stem more likely. Growth regulator type herbicides such as 2,4-D can also induce this state. So if you see a warty stem, don’t be concerned. The bumps will not harm the plant in the least. (Ward Upham)

Corn earworm tends to be a problem every year on sweet corn in Kansas. The earworm moth lays eggs on developing silks at night. When the egg hatches, the larva crawls down the silk and into the ear. Feeding starts at the tip of the ear and works down. Though several earworms may hatch and attack a single ear, only one is usually present at harvest

Control is challenging as silks continue to grow over a period of time. This means that even if silks are treated, new silk will appear that hasn't been protected. Applications every 2 to 3 days are needed for insecticides to be effective, especially in late June to early July when peak flight of these moths usually appear.

There is a three-week period from silking to harvest, but there is only a two-week period from when the silks appear to when they begin to dry. Since moths prefer juicy silks and shun those that have started to dry, insecticides are only needed the first two weeks of silking.

Homeowners can use cyfluthrin (Baythroid; Bayer Powerforce Multi-Insect Killer) or spinosad (SpinTor; Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew; Conserve; Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Leafminer Spray).  Spinosad is an organic product. Commercial growers have additional choices including zeta-cypermethrin (Mustang Max), bifenthrin+zeta-cypermethrin (Hero), spinetoram (Radiant) and flubendiamide (Belt).

Though more time consuming, mineral or other light horticultural oils may also be used. The oil is placed inside the silk end of the ear with a medicine dropper (½ to 3/4 of a dropper) after the silks brown. This will coat the earworms already present and likely suffocate them, though some damage to the tip of the ear will likely have occurred. Applying the oil before the silk has browned may interfere with pollination, leading to incompletely filled ears. (Ward Upham)

If you plan on using a grub preventative on your lawn, the first half of July is a good target date for most products. Preventatives are normally used on areas that have had a history of grub problems. Traditional grub insecticides such as Dylox orcarbaryl (Sevin) are normally applied in late July after grubs are present or as a rescue treatment once damage is seen. Products that contain Merit (imidacloprid) are considered grub preventers. Actually, neither product prevents grubs, but rather they kill grubs when they are quite small, and long before they cause damage. Merit is safer to use around pets and humans than traditional grub killers. Merit can be found in Bayer's Season-Long Grub Control, Grub No-More, and Grub Free Zone.

Another grub preventer with the trade name GrubEx contains chlorantraniliprole. Though this product is very effective, it is less water soluble than imidacloprid. It should be applied earlier, preferably April or May, but applications through June should still be effective. Remember, all grub products should be watered in soon after application. (Ward Upham)

What a foundation is to a house, so a root system is to a plant.  Yet the root system is often overlooked even when it is easy to check as with potted plants.  So how do you check the root system of a potted plant?  The first step is to knock the plant out of the pot.

Place your hand over the top of the pot with the stem of the plant passing between two of your fingers.  Turn the pot upside down and tap the edge of the pot against the edge of a table, counter or other hard surface.  The plant should release and come out.

A healthy root system will typically have white roots or at least roots with white tips.  The roots should be visible along the outside of the rootball and should reach the bottom of the pot. Unhealthy roots will be blackened and may have a slimy appearance and foul smell.  Also, an unhealthy root system often does not reach the bottom of the pot.  By far the most common cause of an unhealthy root system is overwatering.

Water by touch, not by calendar. If the soil is dry an inch deep, it is time to water.  An alternative method is to water by weight, if practical.  Lift the pot after a good, deep watering to determine the weight of the well-watered plant.  Then use the “dry an inch deep” method to determine when it is time to water.  Check the weight of the plant at that time.  This will give you an idea of the difference between a well-watered plant and one that is ready for more water.  The time between waterings will vary tremendously between summer with its long days and active plant growth and winter with cooler days, shorter days and little to no growth.

Be sure to add enough so that some water flows out the bottom of the pot. This will help wash out excess salts that tend to accumulate within the potting soil. 

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate