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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 47

11/25/2014

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Video of the Week:
Succulent Plants for Your Home

Turfgrass:
Dormant Seeding of Turfgrass

winter grass seeding
The best time to seed cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is September because the turf has more time to mature before spring crabgrass germination and the heat stress of summer. Dormant seeding of turfgrass is sometimes used to help fill in bare spots of lawns that weren't overseeded in the fall. Dormant overseeding is done during the winter (December –February) when it is much too cold for germination.

As with any seeding program, good seed-soil contact is vital. Several methods can be used. One method is to seed when there has been a light snowfall of up to an inch. This is shallow enough that bare spots can still be seen. Spread seed by hand on areas that need thickening up. As the snow melts, it brings the seed into good contact with the soil where it will germinate in the spring.

Another method is dependent on the surface of the soil being moist followed by freezing weather. As moist soil freezes and thaws, small pockets are formed on the wet, bare soil that is perfect for catching and holding seed. As the soil dries, the pockets collapse and cover the seed.

A third method involves core aerating, verticutting or hand raking and broadcasting seed immediately after. Of course, the soil must be dry enough and unfrozen for this to be practical. With any of the above methods, seed germinates in the spring as early as possible. There will be limitations on what herbicides can be used for weed control. Tupersan (siduron) can be used as a crabgrass preventer on new seedings even before they have come up. Also dithiopyr, found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper, can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Dithiopyr is longer lasting and more effective than siduron. Other preemergence herbicides require that the turf be well established before application. (Ward Upham)

Ornamentals:
Why Haven't the Tree Leaves Fallen?

Marcescent fall
Certain trees on campus have not dropped their leaves including some maples, sycamores, London planetrees, ornamental pears, fringetrees and Chinese elms. Though some deciduous trees such as pin oaks do normally hold on to leaves through at least part of the winter, most do not. What we have experienced is a “marcescent” fall. Marcescent simply means to wither without falling off. The last time this happened was during the fall of 2000.

So, how does marcescence happen? It is triggered by a very quick change from warm weather to cold during the fall. Trees usually begin to prepare for winter by absorbing nutrients from the leaves and inducing each leaf to form an abscission layer at the base of the leaf stem. The abscission layer weakens cell walls and allows the leaves to fall. The quick change from warm to very cold weather this November killed the still green leaves before the abscission layer had formed. Therefore leaves have remained attached to the tree. Though marcescence will not harm the tree directly, a heavy snowfall or ice storm could cause much more limb breakage than normal due to more surface area being available for snow or ice to collect.

Unfortunately, there isn’t much we can do except hope remaining leaves will fall and that we can avoid any snow or ice storms. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Poor Drainage in Garden Areas

pile of topsoil
Winter is often a good time to fix areas in the garden where water sits and does not drain properly. Such areas often harm plant roots due to poor oxygen levels in the soil. Consider adding good topsoil so water doesn’t sit. Be sure to till or spade the area to mix the new topsoil and the underlying existing soil. Plant roots do not like to cross distinct barriers caused by one type of soil sitting on top of another. Internal drainage can be improved by adding organic matter such as peatmoss, rotted hay, cotton burrs, rotted silage or compost. This can be done by adding a 2- to 4- inch layer of organic matter to the surface of the soil and tilling or spading in as deeply as possible. (Ward Upham)

Storing Power Equipment for the Winter

Readying tiller for winter
Late fall or early winter is a good time to service power equipment such as mowers, tillers and garden tractors. Run the equipment out of gas or treat the existing gas with a stabilizer as untreated gas can deteriorate over time. If using a stabilizer, run the engine long enough for untreated gas in the carburetor bowl to be burned and replaced. This is also a good time to replace the oil (and filter, if present) since the engine is warm. Check and replace the spark plug if necessary.

Some gardeners will also apply a light, sprayable oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Check and clean air filters and replace if necessary. Many mowers and tillers will have a foam prefilter that can become filthy with use. If allowed to become too dirty, engines will run poorly or may not run at all. Sharpen blades, clean tines, tighten screws, replace broken parts and do all the other things needed to keep equipment in good shape. Though such maintenance takes some time and effort, it pays for itself by reducing frustration and lost time due to poorly performing equipment during a hectic spring. (Ward Upham)

Houseplants Losing Leaves

yellowing leaves on houseplant
Homeowners often become concerned about their houseplants this time of year because they look unthrifty and may even shed leaves. Most of this is the plant responding to low light levels. Not only is the day length shorter, but the angle of the sun means sunlight must travel through more atmosphere before it reaches us in the northern latitudes. Each of these factors means less light energy reaches our houseplants. Houseplants respond to this stress by stopping growth and dropping leaves if necessary. So how can we tell if leaves are being dropped due to stress or due to other factors? Normally, stress is the culprit if leaves are dropped throughout the plant so general thinning occurs.

The next question is what do we do about it? Well, you can add supplemental lighting or just wait until longer days and higher light levels allow the plants to recover. Unfortunately, people often decide the plant needs more fertilizer or water to perk it up. Remember the problem is low light, not a lack of fertilizer or water. Adding extra fertilizer or water won't help, and may actually harm, the plant. The needs of the plant need to be balanced. If there is plenty of sunlight, the plant can use more water and fertilizer. Under low light levels, the plant doesn’t require much fertilizer and the nutrients stay in the soil where they can build up and may eventually burn roots.

Also, excess water can drown roots. Therefore, it is important to do a good job of watering and fertilizing during the winter. Only water when the soil is dry ½ inch deep in the pot. Eventually you can learn to judge whether a plant needs water just by weight. Also, reduce or eliminate fertilizing during the winter months. If the plant still looks thin in the spring, cut it back so it can put out new, thicker growth. Also, knock the plant out of the pot in the spring and make sure it isn't root bound. If it is, move it up to a larger pot. (Ward Upham)

Peter Wirtz Video Available for Viewing

Peter Wirtz of the internationally acclaimed Belgium landscape architecture firm, Wirtz International, shared his passion for horticulture and his design philosophy on the K-State campus, Thursday, November 13, 2014. Wirtz International was founded by his father, Jacques Wirtz, and for decades, trees, hedges, grasses, and flowers have bent to the will of Jacques Wirtz. Peter and his brother Martin now co-own the world-renowned company.

Peter grew up in the family nursery and garden. Mr. Wirtz completed studies of music at Antwerp Conservatory (Belgium) and landscape architecture at Cornell University.

Mr. Wirtz works on private, public, corporate, and institutional projects in Europe and America together with his brother and co-director Martin Wirtz and a design studio of 11 collaborators. Former or ongoing garden projects: private gardens in the US; Domaine deWideville, Paris, France (private); Chateau de La Croe, Nice, France (private); De Stadstuin Ronse, Belgium (public park & private development); Jubilee Park, London, UK (public park); Ernsting’s Family Campus, Coesfeld, Germany (corporate); Kunsthaus Zürich, Switzerland (institutional); and Shanghai Chanfeng, China (mixed development).

In May 2014, horticulture study abroad students along with Drs. Miller and Lavis spent 3-hours with Peter at his Belguim studio and walking his father’s private gardens. This event is sponsored by the Department of Horticulture, Forestry and Recreation Resources, George Terbovich Design, Inc., and the Department of Landscape Architecture and Regional & Community Planning College of Architecture, Planning & Design.

See http://youtu.be/7xNQqxxELaI for the video. (Cathie Lavis)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 46

11/18/2014

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Video of the Week:
For Winter Color, Plant Amaryllis Bulbs

Fruit:
Winterizing Strawberry Plants

Winter can be a difficult time for strawberries in Kansas. Plants need time to become adjusted to cold weather and will gradually become more cold resistant as fall progresses. Strawberry plants are able to withstand colder temperatures in the middle of the winter than in the fall before they have gone through much cold weather. For example, if temperatures suddenly plummet below 20 degrees F before the plants harden to the cold, they can be severely damaged. A drop to 15 degrees F may kill them. Hardened plants can withstand such temperatures with ease. This lack of hardening off may be a concern this year because of the unseasonably warm fall. If a sudden drop in temperature to below 20 degrees F is forecast, it may be wise to mulch the plants as you would for the winter. After the cold snap is over, uncover the plants so they may continue to harden off.

Normally, strawberries should be mulched for the winter around Thanksgiving. However, if temperatures stay abnormally warm, give plants another couple of weeks to become cold hardy before mulching. Mulching plants helps protect strawberries not only from low temperatures but also from heaving damage. Heaving damage occurs when the alternate freezing and thawing common in Kansas winters heave plants out of the ground where they can die.

Wheat straw makes good mulch and is widely available. The straw should be spread over the plants to a depth of 3 inches. Shake the slabs of straw apart so there are no large compressed chunks. This straw mulch not only helps protect the plants over winter but can also help avoid damage from late spring frosts by delaying blooming a few days in the spring. Mulch should be removed gradually in the spring as plants begin new growth. Remove enough so leaves can be seen.

Leaving some mulch in place keeps the berries off the ground and conserves moisture. Also, mulch left in the aisles helps protect pickers from muddy conditions. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Ashes in the Garden

You may have heard that using wood ashes on your garden can help make the soil more fertile. Though ashes do contain significant amounts of potash, they contain little phosphate and no nitrogen. Most Kansas soils are naturally high in potash and do not need more. Also, wood ashes will raise the pH of our soils, often a drawback in Kansas where soils tend toward high pH anyway. Therefore, wood ashes add little benefit, and may harm, many Kansas soils. In most cases it is best to get rid of them. (Ward Upham)

Houseplants and Indoor Pollution

Researchers at the University of Georgia tested a number of common houseplants for their ability to remove organic volatiles from indoor environments. The indoor pollutants included benzene, toluene, octane, tricholoroethylene (TCE), and alphapinene. Houseplants were rated as superior, intermediate, or poor to reflect their ability to remove all volatiles. None of the plants appeared to have been damaged by the volatiles.

Superior Removal Efficiency
Hemigraphis alternata: Red Ivy
Hedera helix: English Ivy
Tradescantia pallida: Wandering Jew
Hoya carnosa: Porcelain Flower

Intermediate Removal Efficiency
Ficus benjamina: Weeping fig
Polyscia fruticosa: Ming aralia
Fittonia argyroneura: Silver Nerve Plant
Sansevieria trifasciata: Mother-in-Law's Tongue
Gusmania sp.: Type of Bromeliad
Anthurium andreanum: Flamingo Flower
Schefflera elegantissima: False aralia

Poor Removal Efficiency
Peperomia clusiifolia: Peperomia
Chlorophytum comosum: Spider plant
Howea belmoreana: Sentry palm
Spathiphyllum wallisii: Peace Lily
Schefflera arboricola: Hawaiian Elf Schefflera
Codiaeum variegatum: Croton
Calathea roseopicta: Peacock Plant
Aspidistra elatior: Cast Iron Plant
Maranta leuconeura: Prayer Plant
Dracaena fragrans: Corn Plant
Ficus elastica: India Rubber Plant
Dieffenbachia seguine: Dumbcane
Philodendron scandens: Philodendron
Syngonium podophyllum: Nephytis, Arrowhead Vine
Epipremnum aureum: Pothos
Pelargonium graveolens: Rose Geranium
(Ward Upham)

Monitor Indoor Plant Temperatures

Now would be a good time to check the location of foliage houseplants to be sure the plants don't get too cold this fall or winter. Plants next to windows or in entryways near outside doors are at the greatest risk. Plants sensitive to cold temperatures include Chinese evergreen (Algaonema), flamingo flower (Anthurium), croton (Codiaeum), false aralia (Dizygotheca), and ming and balfour aralia (Polyscias). Monitor and maintain temperatures above 65 degrees F for the false aralia and above 60 degrees for the rest of the list. Many other indoor plants prefer temperatures above 50 degrees. If needed, move plants away from the windows or door entrances to reduce cold temperature exposure. It may be necessary to move some plants from windowsills before shades or drapes are pulled, especially in the evening. (Ward Upham)

Plants and Wind Chill

Sometimes cold temperatures are accompanied by high winds, which may have you wondering about wind chill damage to plants. Though wind chills can have a profound effect on warm-blooded animals' ability to keep warm, plants do not respond to wind chill indexes in the same way. This is because warm-blooded animals must maintain a temperature above that of their surroundings. Higher winds mean greater heat loss. Plants, however, do not need to maintain a temperature above that of the air. Therefore, wind will not increase cold damage to a plant. For example, a wind chill of 0 degrees at a temperature of 20 degrees Fahrenheit will not cause any more cold injury to plant tissue than a wind chill index of 10 degrees above zero at 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

However, wind alone can desiccate (dry out) plant tissues. Plant tissues require moisture to survive, and high wind velocity can cause moisture loss. This desiccation may be great enough to injure or even kill tissue, particularly the smaller size wood as in peach twigs, apple spurs or blackberry canes. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 45

11/11/2014

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Video of the Week:
Growing Ferns

Flowers:
Fall Care of Peonies

Peony plant in the fall
Cut peony foliage back to the ground if this hasn’t been done already. Compost or discard foliage. Fertilize peonies twice a year — in the spring shortly before new growth appears and then again in the fall after the plants have been cut back. A total of 1.5 to 2 ounces (3 to 4 tablespoons) of a 1-1-1 fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 per plant per application should be used. This amounts to 3 to 4 ounces of fertilizer per year. If a soil test reveals adequate levels of phosphorus and potassium, use a lawn fertilizer such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3 or something similar, but cut the rate to 1/3 of the above rate. In other words apply ½ to 3/4 ounce (1 to 1.5 tablespoons) per plant. Never apply fertilizer directly on the center of the peony as the buds (eyes) may be damaged. Rather, place the fertilizer in a band from 8 to 18 inches from the center of the plant. Water the fertilizer in so the plant can take it up.

Winter protection of herbaceous peonies is only necessary the first winter after planting to prevent alternate freezing and thawing from lifting plants out of the soil. A couple of inches of mulch should be sufficient. Any organic material that does not mat down will work and should be applied after the ground freezes. Avoid using leaves that will mat together. Remove the covering before growth begins in the spring.

The less common tree peonies have woody stems like deciduous shrubs and should not be cut back to the ground or pruned in the fall. Collect the shed leaves and place in the compost pile this fall. Though tree peonies are hardy to Zone 4, they do benefit from a light mulching over winter. Also, it is recommended that tree peonies be fertilized during November to get the plants off to a good start next spring. It is best to take a soil test to see what nutrients are needed. If the soil needs phosphorus and potassium, use a complete fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, 9-9-6, etc.) at
the rate of 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet. This would equal 1 rounded teaspoon per square foot.

If phosphorus and potassium are not needed, blood meal makes an excellent fertilizer. Apply at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet or 1 teaspoon per square foot. Turf fertilizers such as a 27-3-3 or 30-3-3 also can be used but at the rate of to 1 pound per 100 square feet or 1 teaspoon per 2 square feet. (Ward Upham)

Vegetables:
Soil Prep Now for Peas Next Spring

Fall tilling of the garden
Peas can be planted earlier than just about any other vegetable crop because they can grow well at a soil temperature of 40 degrees. Though other crops such as lettuce, parsnips and spinach can sprout at lower temperatures (35 degrees), they don’t start growing well until the soil reaches about 45 degrees. However, soils are often too wet to work in the spring. Let’s hope that is true this coming year as we need the moisture. Therefore, you may wish to prepare the soil now rather than next spring so that planting can take place as early as possible even if those spring soils are wet. Wait until soil temperatures reach 40 degrees next spring and sprinkle the seeds on the soil and push them in with your finger. Protection from rabbits and deer will probably be needed as they will be attracted to anything green coming up so early. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Knotweed Control

Knotweed
Knotweed thrives in compacted soils, so a thorough aeration is the first step in control. This weed will not compete in a healthy lawn. Chemically, there are two options. Knotweed is an annual that germinates in late February or early March, so a preemergence herbicide can be used in the late fall (about now). Pendimethalin (Scotts Halts), Surflan (Weed Impede), Barricade, Dimension and XL are labeled for knotweed. (Note: Pendimethalin, Barricade and Dimension can be used on all Kansas turfgrasses, while Surflan and XL can only be used on tall fescue and warm-season grasses). The other option is to use a combination postemergence product such as Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gon or Weed Free Zone after the knotweed has germinated in the spring but is still young.

If spring seeding is planned, your options are more limited. Buctril can be used on commercial sites and has a very short residual. It must be used on very young knotweed to get control. Trimec and others require a month before seeding. Obviously, don't use a preemergence herbicide if you are trying to get new seed established. For homeowners seeding in the spring, tilling will control knotweed adequately without using a herbicide. If seeding without tilling (e.g., overseeding using a slicer-seeder), then use a combination product such as one mentioned
above just after the knotweed comes up in the spring, and be sure to wait at least a month before seeding. (Ward Upham)

Begin Rabbit Protection Now

Rabbit in the garden
Rabbits may begin to nibble on newly planted trees and shrubs this time of year. Protect your investment now through this winter with at least 2-foot-tall cylinders of 1-inch-mesh, chicken wire, or similar barrier. Other control methods include plastic tree wraps and liquid rabbit repellents sprayed on the plants. (Ward Upham)

Horseradish

Horseradish plant
Horseradish is ready to dig after a hard freeze kills the foliage (usually November or December). The large roots can be harvested while smaller, pencil sized roots can be cut in 6-8 inch long sections as 'seed' or 'sets' for next year's crop which are then immediately re-planted. Another option is to leave the horseradish in the ground and dig as needed. If you choose the latter option, be sure to heavily mulch the area so that the ground doesn’t freeze.

To use horseradish, peel the large, fleshy roots and cut into sections. Use a blender or food processor to chop the roots along with a small amount of water and a couple of ice cubes. Vinegar or lemon juice is added to stop the process that produces the “bite” of horseradish. Add immediately after blending for a mild flavor or wait up to 3 minutes to give the horseradish more kick. Use 2 to 3 tablespoons of vinegar or lemon juice per cup of horseradish sauce along with ½ teaspoon of salt for flavor. Horseradish has an extremely strong odor and so you may wish to
open the blender or food processor outdoors and to keep your face away from the container when opening. Store ground horseradish in a tightly sealed jar in a refrigerator until ready for use. (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate

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Horticulture Newsletter 2014, No. 44

11/4/2014

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Video of the Week:
How to Care for Palm Plants

Flowers:
Winterizing Roses

Rose mulched with straw
Though most shrub roses are hardy in Kansas, other types of roses can be more tender. For example, the hybrid teas have certain species in their ancestry that originated in the warm climate of southern China. These roses need protection to reliably survive Kansas winters.  Mound soil or compost about 8 to 10 inches high around each plant. If using soil, bring it in from another part of the garden. Do not pull it from between plants because this can damage the rose roots or make them more susceptible to cold.

Mounding is normally finished by Thanksgiving. After the ground has frozen, add a 4-inch mulch of straw, leaves or hay for further protection. More soil may be spread on top of the mulch to keep it in place. Do not add the mulch before the ground freezes or mice may invade and feed on the roses over the winter. The purpose of these coverings is not only to moderate the cold, but also to prevent warm days during the winter or early spring from stimulating growth that is tender to returning cold weather.

Excessively tall canes should be pruned to a height of 36 inches and tied together to prevent them from being whipped by strong winter winds. Wind can damage the crown of the plant or loosen the surrounding soil. Next spring, remove coverings before new growth starts. Wait until after the ground thaws, or the tops may begin growing before the roots can provide water. (Ward Upham)

Miscellaneous:
Roasting Pumpkin Seeds

pumpkins
Now that Halloween is past, you may be wondering what to do with the pumpkins that were used to decorate for the holiday. Consider roasting the seeds before freezing temperatures destroys the pumpkin fruit. Cut open the pumpkin and remove the seeds and stringy material. Seeds should be washed and dried and the “strings” discarded.  Toss the seeds with a little oil before roasting.  Flavor can be enhanced by adding a sprinkling of salt to the oiled seeds. Seeds can then be spread on a cookie sheet and roasted for about 25 minutes at 325 degrees F. Times may vary depending on the size and moisture content of the seed. Seeds are done when they turn a golden brown. If seeds are not eaten immediately, store in a zip closure bag in the refrigerator. (Ward Upham)

Draining Hoses and Irrigation Lines

hose drained and coiled
Hoses and shallow irrigation lines may be damaged over the winter if water is not drained.  If there is a main shut-off valve for the system, close it and then run through the zones to make sure any pressure has a chance to bleed off. Lawn irrigation systems usually have shallow lines. Though some lines may be self-draining, check to be sure there are no manual drains. If so, they should be opened. Be sure to map them so they can be closed next spring before the system is pressurized.

Drain hoses by stretching them out and coiling them for storage. Water will drain as you pull the hose toward you for coiling. Store in a protected place. UV light can make hoses brittle over time. (Ward Upham)

Winter Care of Houseplants

houseplant by window
During the short days of winter, houseplant growth slows, resulting in a need to change how we care for them. Although frequent watering may have been necessary during the long days of summer, the same amount now could cause problems. Excess water fills air spaces within the soil resulting in roots that receive less oxygen than they need. Water by touch, not by calendar. If the soil is dry an inch deep, it is time to water. Be sure to add enough so that some water flows out the bottom of the pot. This will help wash out excess salts that tend to accumulate within the potting soil. Fertilization also should be reduced. Normally, it is best to apply half the amount of fertilizer for flowering houseplants and one-fourth the amount for foliage houseplants. Too much fertilizer results in plants that become leggy and weak. Location is another factor that should be considered this time of year. Since day length is so short, houseplants may be helped by being moved to areas of the room that receive more light, such as a south-or east-facing window.

Avoid placing plants where drafts from doors or direct output from heating ducts may contact them. Relative humidity also tends to be low during the winter. If you do not have a humidifier, frequent misting of the plants or placing them on water-filled trays of pebbles can help raise the humidity. (Ward Upham)

Keep Compost Moist

compost pile
This is the time of year when there are lots of materials available to compost. Remember that the compost needs to be kept moist so that the bacteria and fungi can break down the raw materials. Use a sprinkler to soak through the pile to the center.  Allow the pile to drain. The goal is for the pile to remain moist; not waterlogged. Edges will dry out the quickest and may need a light sprinkling from time to time.          

If you are interested in composting but don’t know how it is done, see our video at http://tinyurl.com/c8aw6lk   and/or our publication at http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc1757.ashx (Ward Upham)

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate


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    Authors

    Ward Upham runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists.

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    Perennial Garden Clean Up
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    Pesticide Effectiveness
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    Weeds In Flower Beds
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    Weird Squash
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    Wildflower Establishment
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    Wildlife
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    Wind Chill
    Winter Damage
    Winterizing Water Lines
    Winter Mulching Vegetables
    Winter Squash
    Wood Chips
    Worms From Oaks
    Yellowjackets
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