As a member of the Euphorbiaceae family, poinsettias are related to the rubber tree. The rubber tree is responsible for the production of natural latex. For this reason, anyone with a latex intolerance may be sensitive to direct contact with poinsettias as well. (Cynthia Domenghini)
Since childhood I’ve heard that poinsettias are poisonous and should not be kept in a home that has pets indoors. The origins of this rumor are not certain though the effects are widespread. Studies have been done on humans and animals to report side effects of consuming poinsettias. Though some negative gastrointestinal symptoms may occur if large quantities of a poinsettia us consumed, the plants are not considered a major health risk to animals or humans. Regardless, poinsettias are not considered edible and families with pets that are prone to chewing should keep indoor plants out of reach.
As a member of the Euphorbiaceae family, poinsettias are related to the rubber tree. The rubber tree is responsible for the production of natural latex. For this reason, anyone with a latex intolerance may be sensitive to direct contact with poinsettias as well. (Cynthia Domenghini)
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The USDA plant hardiness zone map is a resource many gardeners use to aide in decisions regarding plant selections. The map represents the average annual extreme minimum temperature for a certain location and a particular time period. This information has been gathered over 30 years from thousands of weather stations. A new USDA map has just been released as an update from the 2012 map. The 2023 map is intended to be more user-friendly and designed for the Internet. Better data and technology have enabled the map to account for microclimates within regions where the zones may slightly vary from a rural area to more developed cities and towns as well as areas of elevation change. With the new guidelines, most of Kansas is now within zones 6a to 7a. For many of us the new zoning represents a change of half a hardiness zone. This could mean more options for growing during cool seasons. To access the updated 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and find resources to use the map for your location you can visit this site: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/. (Cynthia Domenghini) Before adding supplements to the garden, it is helpful to know the soil conditions. Soil tests can be done with help from your local extension unit. Ashes are a significant source of potash but provide a very small amount of phosphate and no nitrogen. There are many sources that recommend using ashes as a fertilizer, but soils vary from one region to another. Since most Kansas soils have naturally high rates of potash, incorporating ashes to the soil is not beneficial. In fact, this could be problematic since wood ashes will raise the pH of the soil and our soil tends to have a high pH naturally. Finding alternative ways to dispose of ashes is a better option for our area. (Cynthia Domenghini) This is a good time to service power equipment such as mowers, tillers and garden tractors. Run the equipment out of gas or treat the existing gas with a stabilizer as untreated gas can deteriorate over time. If using a stabilizer, run the engine long enough for untreated gas in the carburetor bowl to be burned and replaced. This is also a good time to replace the oil (and filter, if present) since the engine is warm. Check and replace the spark plug if necessary. Some gardeners will also apply a light, sprayable oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Check and clean air filters and replace if necessary. Many mowers and tillers will have a foam prefilter that can become filthy with use. If allowed to become too dirty, engines will run poorly or may not run at all. Sharpen blades, clean tines, tighten screws and replace broken parts. Doing this maintenance now will help reduce frustration and lost time due to poorly performing equipment next spring. (Ward Upham) Houseplants drop their leaves in response to several conditions: too much or too little water, restricted root growth, temperature is too cold or a rapid change in the growing environment. Many gardeners move their houseplants outdoors for the summer season. With the recent move back indoors, and the change in light, these plants may experience leaf drop. The good news is the plants should self-correct within a few weeks if they receive adequate care. Remember, growth will typically slow down significantly as plants respond to the change in environment. Water only as needed and avoid the temptation to fertilize your plants at this time. Allow time for plants to acclimate to their new location. When plants are brought indoors or even when they are brought home from the store, the light conditions will be different. Try to expose plants to this change gradually. If plants were receiving bright light in their previous location position them near the window that receives the brightest light in your home. If their permanent location is darker, take time to move the plants allowing them to adjust to less and less light. It can take four to eight weeks for plants to acclimate depending on how drastic the light difference is. When the weather warms up follow the same process in reverse as you prepare to re-introduce the plants to the outdoors. (Cynthia Domenghini) Although most shrub roses are hardy through Kansas winters, many hybrid teas and other modern varieties require protection. It is important to wait to winterize roses until several hard frosts have occurred, but prior to the ground freezing. Too early and the stem remains warm moist; good conditions for cankers to develop. Too late risks damage to the sensitive graft union where the rootstalk attaches to the above ground growth. Clean up plant debris in the area surrounding the roses to prevent diseases from overwintering. Mound soil or compost eight to ten inches high around each rose plant. Bring in new soil for this rather than displacing soil from the area around the roses to avoid damaging the roots and exposing them to the cold. Once the ground has frozen, add a 4-inch layer of straw, leaves, wood chips or other mulch over the mound and cover with a layer of soil to hold it in place. This will help protect the plants from the cold but also prevent early budding during warm winter and early spring days. As the mulch settles during winter you may need to add more. Prune canes to 36-inches and remove weak or thin canes. Tie the remaining canes together loosely to keep them secure during windy weather. If the canes are allowed to whip in the wind it can cause damage to the crown and disturb the soil. When the ground thaws in the spring remove the mulch and soil from the base of the plant to return the soil level to normal. (Cynthia Domenghini) Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) are a classic bloom for this time of year. If you are purchasing bulbs be sure to select the largest bulbs available that are firm and dry. If growth is visible it should be bright green. Each bulb should produce three to four blooms on a one to two-foot stem. Larger bulbs will produce more flowers. Amaryllis grow best in tight spaces so select a container that is about one-inch larger in diameter and twice as tall as the bulb with drainage holes in the bottom. Hold the bulb over the container with the roots dangling to the bottom and add a sterile potting mix. Firm the soil around the roots carefully to avoid damaging them. Leave the top third to half of the bulb visible above the soil. Put the container in a sink and water thoroughly. When the water has stopped draining, set the plant in a warm, sunny location. As the flower opens move the plant away from direct sunlight and to a cooler location to prolong the bloom period which can last up to one month. When blooming is complete, the amaryllis plant is still growing. Remove the bloom stalk to prevent the bulb from expending energy on seed formation. Move the container back to the sunny window. When the danger of frost has passed you can begin to gradually expose the plant to the outdoors. First secure the container in an area outdoors with dappled shade. Over time you can move it to a location that receives six hours of full sun each day. Apply a balanced houseplant fertilizer monthly. Prior to the first frost bring the amaryllis back inside and place it in a dark location. Stop watering it and when the leaves dry cut them off just above the bulb. Allow the bulb to rest for eight to twelve weeks with no water. When new growth appears or when you are ready to force the bloom, relocate the bulb to a sunny window and begin watering and fertilizing regularly. From dormancy to bloom it usually takes four to six weeks. Though amaryllis only require repotting every three to four years, the time to do this is after dormancy. (Cynthia Domenghini) Yes, we can grow figs in Kansas. Not well, but we can grow them.
Most fig trees are only hardy to 12 to 15 degrees F though some are hardy down to 0 to 5 degrees F. Therefore, top growth often will not survive our winters. However, some varieties will re-sprout from the roots and produce a surprisingly large “shrub” by the fall. Since fruit is borne on new wood, Kansans can often enjoy a late harvest before cold weather shuts down growth. Many figs are self-fruitful and will bear fruit without requiring a second variety. Others require cross-pollination and therefore you must have two different varieties in order to get fruit. Read the variety descriptions to determine whether you need two different varieties for fruiting. Choose only the hardiest varieties. Chicago Hardy, Stella, Olympic and Peter's Honey Fig were all recommended by Matt Bunch with "The Giving Grove" out of Kansas City. Florea is recommended for cold climates by One Green World. I chose Chicago Hardy and Florea for my garden. The flowers of figs are borne inside the fruit and therefore not visible. Therefore, do not be concerned with the lack of visible flowers. Chicago Hardy and Florea fruit turn purple at maturity though the color of mature fruit varies with variety. The fruit is quite mushy when ripe and will not keep well. If you produce more fruit than you can eat, consider drying as dried fruit can keep for six to eight months. (Ward Upham) Have you noticed trees that typically drop their leaves in the fall are hanging onto their withered, brown leaves longer than usual? This year, once again, much of Kansas experienced a swift drop in temperature after warm fall weather. This has resulted in trees that have not hardened off and are now showing signs of marcescence. Marcescence (mar-CESS-enss) is defined by leaves that wither but do not detach from the plant. When the temperature drops quickly, as we have experienced this fall, many trees didn’t have time to develop an abscission layer at the base of each leaf. The abscission layer is what separates the leaf from the tree and prompts it to fall to the ground. Although marcescence does not harm the tree on its own it may indicate damage has occurred to the tree. The sharp drop in temperature may have caused damage to the phloem and cambium tissues beneath the bark. The phloem is responsible for carrying food throughout the tree, including to the roots, and the cambium produces new phloem. If these tissues are killed, the roots cannot receive food necessary for survival. Since the roots have some energy reserves available, the tree will not die immediately. Once the reserves are used up, death is imminent, typically the summer after the damage occurred. The xylem is the structure in the tree that carries water from the soil throughout the plant. Since it is not damaged in this process the tree will continue to receive water which will help maintain life until the roots run out of reserves. Another complication that can arise from marcescence is if we experience a heavy snow or ice storm. The weight of snow and ice that can accumulate on the leaves along with windy conditions can cause branches to break. If you are seeing trees with marcescence nothing needs to be done now except prevent further stress. Trees should enter winter with moist soil. Without knowing the extent of the damage to the tree tissue it is impossible to know what the end result will be. If only a small portion of the tissue was killed the tree may still recover. (Cynthia Domenghini) |
AuthorsCynthia Domenghini runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists. Archives
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