- Deadhead blooms as they fade to prevent seed development and allow bulbs to store more energy for future blooms.
- Leaves should be left intact until they die back naturally. Cutting leaves back while still green halts energy production and limits energy stored in the bulbs.
- Wait to transplant bulbs until after leaves have died back, if necessary.
- If you’re noticing leaves emerging from the soil due to our warmer days lately don’t be too concerned. When freezing temps return the leaves may develop some brown tips but the plants should be fine. If buds emerge you can cover them gently with mulch. (Cynthia Domenghini)
March through April and sometimes May we will receive our delayed gratification from the bulbs planted last fall. Get the most out of this reward with the following tips:
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Restoration of biodiversity is key to permaculture design. Native plants are indigenous to a region rather than introduced through human interaction. They promote biodiversity by limiting the amount of maintenance needed while providing food and housing for wildlife.
Native plants are adapted to a specific area and consequently well-suited to the growing conditions there. A native landscape has balance between the animals and plants enabling them to co-exist. Once established, native plants require less supplemental water, fertilizer, pest management and overall maintenance than non-natives. Less human interference equals greater biodiversity. Native habitats are beneficial as a food source for wildlife. Some species of wildlife are non-specific in what types of plants they prefer, while others require certain types of plants. Incorporating a variety of native plants will encourage more diversity of wildlife to your landscape. Here are a few natives to consider for a permaculture landscape. Always use caution when harvesting plants for edible use. Ensure proper identification and preparation to prevent a negative reaction. Bee balm (Monarda fistulosa) grows two to three feet tall and wide. The tubular-shaped pink/purple blooms appear in June through August attracting bees, hummingbirds and butterflies. Leaves have been used for herbal teas. Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) has fall and winter interest with the bloom of yellow flowers which are great for feeding bees. This large shrub can reach 15-20 feet and prefers a moist, shaded location. The late fall blooms attract bees. The leaves and bark have medicinal value. False indigo (Baptisia australis) is an herbaceous perennial that reaches over three feet in height and width. It prefers full sun and is a nitrogen fixer. The lovely summer blooms are inviting to butterflies and bees. Serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea) is native to eastern Kansas and produces fruit that resembles the taste of blueberries in mid-summer. Reaching 20 feet in height, these trees make great specimens and can reach 15 to 25 feet tall producing white blooms in April. When establishing native plants in the landscape consider these tips:
Balance is important. There is no need to remove exotic or alien plants from the permaculture landscape unless they are problematic to the goals of the area. There is certainly room for introduced plants that bring you joy alongside regional natives. (Cynthia Domenghini) For the purpose of the Hort Newsletter a weed is defined as a plant growing somewhere it is not wanted. For many gardeners, weeds are the downfall. Weeds create competition for nutrients and water. They can also restrict growth of desired plants by competing for space. The frustration with weeds leads some gardeners to turn to chemicals or give up on a garden plot altogether. Understanding weeds may be helpful in your gardening efforts. Just like our garden plants, weeds can be annuals, perennials or biennials. Annual weeds, including henbit and spurge, germinate each year and complete their life cycle in one growing season. Perennial weeds such as, clover and bindweed, live at least two years and often reproduce by seed with the help of wind, water, animals and other means of dispersal. We all know a child, or perhaps you were the child, who loves blowing dandelion heads and making wishes as the wind disperses the seeds. Perennial weeds can sometimes spread by cuttings of roots or other vegetative plant parts as well. This capability can make managing these weeds a challenge. Preventing weeds is the best management strategy. This includes using practices such as keeping the soil covered with a cover crop or mulch to prevent germination. Using drip irrigation to direct water to the desired plants rather than watering the entire garden area can also prevent weeds from germinating. Other prevention strategies include minimizing tillage. Deep tilling the garden damages the soil structure and brings weed seeds to the surface where conditions for germination are right. Occultation is the use of black tarps over the ground to kill weeds with the help of the sun. Depending on the persistence of the weeds this can take a couple weeks to months for successful eradication. Weeds that have already established in a garden are often most effectively and safely removed by hand pulling. Though there are a couple of herbicides home gardeners can use there are consequences of using this method, including risk of damaging vegetable crops due to overspray. Cultivating the top one to two inches of soil can remove annual and young perennial weeds. If done on a regular basis this can effectively control their growth. It is beneficial to knock out weeds before they are able to develop seeds to prevent reproduction. A single dandelion seed head has been reported to produce 150 to 200 seeds. (Something to remember next time you see the neighborhood child gathering stems in their yard!) Integrated Pest Management (IPM) includes controlling weeds in the landscape. Using a variety of practices listed above will give the most effective management. (Cynthia Domenghini) While it is still technically winter, the days are gradually getting longer and home gardeners are likely counting the days until spring. In this article, Dr. DeAnn Presley, Soil Management Extension Specialist, answers the question “Can I grow a garden on top of a septic system?”. Since there are an increasing number of suburban homes being built in Kansas, most of which are not on municipal sewer systems, this article was written to help educate the public about residential septic systems and how to manage them properly. Septic systems, also referred to as onsite wastewater systems, treat and cycle wastewater back into the environment. There are many different kinds of systems, but except for lagoons, all depend on dispersing partially treated wastewater called effluent into the home’s lawn through a network of pipes called the drainfield or absorption field. Soil organisms, such as bacteria and fungi, play a critical role in decomposing the chemicals, compounds, and other organisms present in the wastewater. For this process to proceed efficiently the soil profile needs to be aerobic, meaning that the soil isn’t permanently saturated. Systems have the large footprint they do so water can be spread out across the dispersal field rather than one spot becoming overloaded with water. Plants are beneficial for removing some of this water from the lateral field through transpiration (water moves from the roots and exits through the leaves). However, the very best plants for covering wastewater system components, such as the septic tank and the absorption field, are lawn grasses and other ornamental plants with a shallow root system. There are a few reasons for this.
Because there’s always a risk that a septic system might malfunction, it’s best to avoid consuming vegetables that could have been in contact with effluent. For more information: https://www.epa.gov/septic/frequent-questions-septic-systems https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2015-06/documents/septicsmart-week-landscaping-final.pdf (DeAnn Presley) “Last week in the newsletter you shared that peat moss can be incorporated into compost to help improve the soil quality. Is there an alternative to peat moss that can be used to prevent overharvesting of peat moss in bogs?” I appreciate it when subscribers reach out with their questions and concerns especially when we can educate each other and grow more responsibly. Peat moss is a common substrate used in soilless mixes because it is a lightweight source of organic matter with good aeration and drainage. However, as our reader pointed out, it should not be overused or wasted. Peat moss comes from decomposed sphagnum moss in bogs and wetlands. Harvesting can degrade the ecosystems which do not recover quickly. Some growers may prefer alternatives such as compost, coir or vermiculite. Compost is full of nutrients and can be readily available especially if you set up a system onsite. For the square foot garden, this is the best option to improve the soil. For container gardening, coir and vermiculite are two alternatives. Coir comes from the husks of coconuts and is more sustainable than peat moss. Vermiculite is a lightweight mineral commonly used as an alternative to peat moss because it is better at holding nutrients. These are a few options to consider when you purchase soilless mixes or make your own. Wasn’t the sunshine and warmer weather last week lovely? It felt like a reward after enduring the icy blasts earlier in the month. I found myself walking around my yard begging the garden to give me a project. Living in a suburban cul-de-sac with a small yard, my gardening projects are somewhat restrictive. One feature my landscape lacks is water. Preliminary research suggests the presence of water in a natural space can benefit mental well-being. The sound of running water helps reduce noise pollution and provides a relaxing escape. Water attracts birds and other pollinators which also contribute to positive well-being. Whether a bubbling rock, pond or waterfall, sensory interests are piqued by waterscapes in the landscape. There are myriad designs of fountains and ponds that will fit into any size garden. Water features don’t have to be large and complex to provide benefits. In fact, creating a water feature can be a fun and relatively simple weekend project beginning with a container, such as a water trough or large flowerpot, that will hold water. Of course, the project can be more involved incorporating a larger reservoir to invite wildlife. Consider these points when deciding how to incorporate a therapeutic water feature into your landscape. Accessibility: Though an isolated water feature can become a destination where visitors may venture to seek refuge, if it is too inconvenient to access it, the feature loses efficacy. By positioning the water feature close to pathways that are frequented regularly more people can enjoy the benefits. This also makes it easier to monitor the feature for maintenance concerns. Interactivity: Being able to hear the water feature is one way humans can interact. Provide a bench nearby to encourage visitors to rest, watch and listen to the feature. Depending on the type of feature it may be possible to allow play in the waterscape. Is it safe for children to reach in and splash in the water? If so, consider adding stepping stones up to the feature. (Always consider safety and follow necessary precautions when adding a water feature to the landscape.) Maintenance: Incorporating a water feature into the landscape will have limited benefits to well-being if it requires intense maintenance. Enter into this project with the understanding of the required maintenance and choose a feature that fits into your constraints. If this is your first time installing and maintaining a water feature, start small as you learn the basics. Don’t allow this therapeutic feature to become a stress-inducer! Do you have a water feature in your garden? We would love to see it! Send a photo to Cynthia at cdom@ksu.edu. The most popular vegetable for home gardeners in Kansas confuses many gardeners when deciding what type to grow. New varieties are always being developed in an effort to create the perfect tomato. Choosing a variety with strong disease resistance characteristics is a good start. Other considerations are timing of maturity and yield. Fruiting slows down during the peak of our summer heat. If that coincides with peak fruiting dates, you may be disappointed with the harvest. Some varieties produce more fruit than others. If you have a plan to use a large number of tomatoes, then choose a variety that will meet your need. Determinate Tomatoes: Sometimes known as “bush” or “compact”, these plants typically stay below three feet tall. The fruiting period is more concentrated which is beneficial for gardeners who plan to do canning. Determinate tomato plants are better suited for container gardening. Indeterminate Tomatoes: These varieties grow very large, over five feet, with vine-like growth. It will be necessary to stake the plants to keep them off the ground. The fruit will ripen throughout the growing season with smaller harvests at a single time. School Garden Note: Indeterminate varieties are a better option for school gardens due to the timing of the harvest. Additionally, determinate varieties are at a greater risk of succumbing to pests/diseases during the summer when there are typically fewer people available to maintain the garden. Indeterminate varieties continue sending out new growth making them more likely to recover from this type of damage. Cherry tomatoes produce a large yield of bite-sized fruit making them appealing for this audience as well. Have you noticed tiny insects flying around your home or office? Fungus gnats are common household pests and though they don’t bite, they are quite annoying. This time of year, we get questions about controlling the population of fungus gnats in the home. Here are some ways to keep them in check. Fungus gnats prefer warm, moist environments. Remember, only water houseplants as needed rather than on a regular schedule to avoid oversaturating plants and creating a fungus gnat haven. Determine if the plants need water by inserting your index finger into the soil about one inch. If the soil is dry, it’s time to water. During winter plants tend to use much less water so you can expect to be watering less frequently than during the summer. Dump water out of the saucer once it drains so plants are not in standing water. If fungus gnats are already present in your plants, allow the soil to dry at least through the upper three inches. You may even consider repotting the plant in fresh soilless media. Remove as much soil as possible from the plant roots to eradicate the eggs and larvae of the gnats. Cold frames and hotbeds are season extenders gardeners use to get the most out of the growing season. Cold frames tend to include a wooden frame or box with a lid that can be raised and lowered. They use no artificial heat source so the temperature inside the structure is typically only 5 to 10 degrees warmer than the outside temperature. The cover for a cold frame should be transparent and can be made from an old storm window, polycarbonate or polyethylene film. The size depends on the intended use of the frame. It can be placed over a raised bed or directly on the ground to protect early plantings of cool season crops such as spinach. They can also be used to harden off transplants before planting in the ground or to protect tender perennials during winter. A hotbed is a cold frame with a heat source. It could be an electric heater or even a natural heat source such as manure. Hot beds can be considered miniature greenhouses and are used to get a jump on warm season vegetables. On sunny days, cold frames and hotbeds can heat up quickly. It is important to be able to vent these structures so plants do not get overheated. Storm windows can be attached with hinges so they can be propped open on sunny days to allow heat to escape. When extreme cold temperatures are predicted, the season extenders can be insulated with additional layers such as straw or blankets over the top of the structure. Position cold frames and hotbeds facing south to get the maximum winter sun exposure. Make sure there is good drainage so moisture is not trapped inside. If possible, position the structure close to the house for ease of monitoring and maintenance. For hotbeds with electric heating consider where the power source is and locate the structure in that vicinity. |
AuthorsCynthia Domenghini runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists. Archives
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