Video of the Week:
Tips for Growing Blueberries
Fruit:
Approaching Time for Peach Leaf Curl Control
If you have ever seen emerging peach leaves that are puckered, swollen, distorted and reddish-green color, you have seen peach leaf curl. Uncontrolled, this disease can severely weaken trees due to untimely leaf drop when leaves unfurl in the spring. Fortunately, peach leaf curl is not that difficult to control if the spray is applied early enough. However, by the time you see symptoms, it is much too late. As a matter of fact, fungicides are ineffective if applied after buds begin to swell. Don't spray when temperatures are below 40 degrees or will fall below freezing before the spray dries. Usually we can wait until March to spray but an extended warm period in February that encourages early bud swell may require spraying in late February.
Though peach leaf curl can be controlled by a single fungicide application either in the fall after leaf drop, it is more commonly controlled in the spring. There are several fungicides labeled for this disease including Bordeaux, liquid lime sulfur, and chlorothalonil (Ortho Garden Disease Control, Fertilome Broad Spectrum Fungicide, GardenTech Fungicide Disease Control, Gordon's Multipurpose Fungicide, and Daconil). Thoroughly cover the entire tree during application. Note that it is much easier to achieve good spray coverage if the tree is pruned before spraying. (Ward Upham)
Though peach leaf curl can be controlled by a single fungicide application either in the fall after leaf drop, it is more commonly controlled in the spring. There are several fungicides labeled for this disease including Bordeaux, liquid lime sulfur, and chlorothalonil (Ortho Garden Disease Control, Fertilome Broad Spectrum Fungicide, GardenTech Fungicide Disease Control, Gordon's Multipurpose Fungicide, and Daconil). Thoroughly cover the entire tree during application. Note that it is much easier to achieve good spray coverage if the tree is pruned before spraying. (Ward Upham)
Dormant Oil Sprays for Fruit Trees
There are a number of dormant sprays used on fruit to control various diseases and insects, but a dormant oil spray is designed to control scale insects. If you have a problem with scale, now is the time to start looking for an opportunity to spray. Normally spray should be applied by March 1, especially with peaches and nectarines.
Apples are tougher, and application may be delayed up to the green tip stage. Temperatures need to be at least 40 degrees so spray has a chance to dry before freezing. If the spray does freeze before it dries, plant injury can occur. Applying the spray during the morning will help insure that it dries properly. Thorough coverage of limbs, branches, and twigs is vital for good control. Note that it is much easier to achieve good spray coverage if the tree is pruned before spraying. (Ward Upham)
Apples are tougher, and application may be delayed up to the green tip stage. Temperatures need to be at least 40 degrees so spray has a chance to dry before freezing. If the spray does freeze before it dries, plant injury can occur. Applying the spray during the morning will help insure that it dries properly. Thorough coverage of limbs, branches, and twigs is vital for good control. Note that it is much easier to achieve good spray coverage if the tree is pruned before spraying. (Ward Upham)
Pruning Fruit Trees
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Fruit trees can be pruned from now through March as long as the wood isn’t frozen. Following are some general recommendations on pruning mature fruit trees followed by more specific instructions on each species. If you have young fruit trees, see the accompanying article in this newsletter.
General Recommendations
- Take out broken, damaged or diseased branches.
- If two branches form a narrow angle, prune one out. Narrow angles are weak angles and tend to break during wind or ice storms.
- Take out all suckers. Suckers are branches that grow straight up. They may originate from the trunk or from major branches.
- If two branches cross and rub against one another, one should be taken out.
- Cut back or remove branches that are so low they interfere with harvest or pruning. If cutting back a branch, always cut back to another branch or a bud. Do not leave a stub.
- Cut back branches to reduce the total size of the tree, if necessary.
- Thin branches on the interior of the tree.
Follow the steps above in order but stop if you reach 30% of the tree. For a short video on pruning, see http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/p.aspx?tabid=980&cat=Fruit&itemid=64&cmd=view#64
Specific Instructions
Peach and Nectarine: Peach and nectarine require more pruning than any other fruit trees because they bear fruit on growth from the previous year. Not pruning results in fruit being borne further and further from the center of the tree allowing a heavy fruit crop to break major branches due to the weight of the fruit. Prune long branches back to a shorter side branch.
Apple: Apples tend to become overgrown if not pruned regularly. Wind storms and ice storms are then more likely to cause damage. Also, trees that are not pruned often become biennial bearers. In other words, they bear a huge crop one year and none the next. Biennial bearing is caused by too many fruit on the tree. Though pruning helps, fruit often needs to be thinned as well. The goal is an apple about every 4 inches. Spacing can vary as long as the average is about every 4 inches.
Cherry, Pear, Plum: Light pruning is usually all that is needed. Simply remove branches that are causing or will cause a problem according to the general recommendations above. (Ward Upham)
General Recommendations
- Take out broken, damaged or diseased branches.
- If two branches form a narrow angle, prune one out. Narrow angles are weak angles and tend to break during wind or ice storms.
- Take out all suckers. Suckers are branches that grow straight up. They may originate from the trunk or from major branches.
- If two branches cross and rub against one another, one should be taken out.
- Cut back or remove branches that are so low they interfere with harvest or pruning. If cutting back a branch, always cut back to another branch or a bud. Do not leave a stub.
- Cut back branches to reduce the total size of the tree, if necessary.
- Thin branches on the interior of the tree.
Follow the steps above in order but stop if you reach 30% of the tree. For a short video on pruning, see http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/p.aspx?tabid=980&cat=Fruit&itemid=64&cmd=view#64
Specific Instructions
Peach and Nectarine: Peach and nectarine require more pruning than any other fruit trees because they bear fruit on growth from the previous year. Not pruning results in fruit being borne further and further from the center of the tree allowing a heavy fruit crop to break major branches due to the weight of the fruit. Prune long branches back to a shorter side branch.
Apple: Apples tend to become overgrown if not pruned regularly. Wind storms and ice storms are then more likely to cause damage. Also, trees that are not pruned often become biennial bearers. In other words, they bear a huge crop one year and none the next. Biennial bearing is caused by too many fruit on the tree. Though pruning helps, fruit often needs to be thinned as well. The goal is an apple about every 4 inches. Spacing can vary as long as the average is about every 4 inches.
Cherry, Pear, Plum: Light pruning is usually all that is needed. Simply remove branches that are causing or will cause a problem according to the general recommendations above. (Ward Upham)
Pruning Young Fruit Trees
Young fruit trees should be pruned to begin developing a strong structure of the main or scaffold limbs. This will help prevent limb breakage over the years when the scaffolds carry a heavy fruit load. Apple, apricot, cherry, plum and pear trees generally are trained using the central leader system. The growth pattern for these trees is for a center branch to be dominant and to grow straight up. Peach and nectarine trees are normally pruned using the open center method because they do not have a strong tendency for one shoot or branch to dominate the growth of other shoots or branches. In this system, the tree is pruned to a vase-like pattern with no central leader.
Regardless of the system used, the three to four scaffold branches should:
• Be no lower than 18 inches from the ground. This makes it easier to prune and harvest the tree once it matures.
• Form wide angles (about 60 to 80 degrees) with the trunk. Wide angles are much stronger than narrow angles and are less likely to break under wind or ice loads.
• Be distributed on different sides of the tree for good balance.
• Be spaced about 6 to 10 inches apart on the trunk with no branch directly opposite or below another. (Ward Upham)
Regardless of the system used, the three to four scaffold branches should:
• Be no lower than 18 inches from the ground. This makes it easier to prune and harvest the tree once it matures.
• Form wide angles (about 60 to 80 degrees) with the trunk. Wide angles are much stronger than narrow angles and are less likely to break under wind or ice loads.
• Be distributed on different sides of the tree for good balance.
• Be spaced about 6 to 10 inches apart on the trunk with no branch directly opposite or below another. (Ward Upham)
Flowers:
Rabbit Resistant Flowers
Rabbits can cause a great deal of damage to plants in Kansas. Though fencing is a very effective control, it may be too unattractive for some uses. In such cases, using plants that are less likely to be attractive to rabbits can be helpful. Note that these plants are resistant; not immune to attack. Young plants or those that are succulent due to overfertilization are more likely to be damaged.
Also, the unavailability of other food sources can result in rabbits feeding on plants that are normally rejected. A list of flowers considered resistant to feeding damage by rabbits include artmesia, aster, bee balm, begonia, blanket flower, bleeding heart, candytuft, columbine coreopsis, crocus, daffodil, dahlia, daylily, ferns, gloriosa daisy, herbs (except basil), iris, lamb’s ears, pincushion flower, red hot poker, surprise lily, sweet violet, verbena and yarrow.
This information came from a University of Arizona publication titled “Deer and Rabbit Resistant Plants.” Other resistant plants including trees, shrubs, groundcovers and vines are also listed in this publication. This publication is available at http://tinyurl.com/y8sfgo2 (Ward Upham)
Also, the unavailability of other food sources can result in rabbits feeding on plants that are normally rejected. A list of flowers considered resistant to feeding damage by rabbits include artmesia, aster, bee balm, begonia, blanket flower, bleeding heart, candytuft, columbine coreopsis, crocus, daffodil, dahlia, daylily, ferns, gloriosa daisy, herbs (except basil), iris, lamb’s ears, pincushion flower, red hot poker, surprise lily, sweet violet, verbena and yarrow.
This information came from a University of Arizona publication titled “Deer and Rabbit Resistant Plants.” Other resistant plants including trees, shrubs, groundcovers and vines are also listed in this publication. This publication is available at http://tinyurl.com/y8sfgo2 (Ward Upham)
Vegetables:
Tomato Test: Fruit Size
As we noted last week, Tom Fowler, Horticulture Specialist with the University of Missouri Extension Service, took data on a large tomato planting in both 2013 and 2014. His study included 47 different varieties in 2013, including those that some of our K-State Research & Extension Master Gardeners test for us. The test was repeated in 2014, but some varieties were lost due to cold weather. Also, not all varieties tested last year were tested this year and so we ended up with 21 that were tested both years. Of those, only 16 were slicing tomatoes. This week we will look at total yield.
The top ten varieties for total yield are listed below. We have included the top 10 for 2013, the top for 2014, and the top when these two years are combined. We will only consider those tomatoes which were grown both years. We did not include cherry tomatoes or other small fruited types such as Roma. Weight is given in pounds. We had 16 varieties that met these criteria.
2013
Number Variety Weight
1 Big Beef 135.8
2 Beefmaster 134.8
3 Red Bounty 115.4
4 Black Krim 114.2
5 Scarlet Red 107.6
6 Supersonic 102.2
7 Rutgers 102.0
8 Jet Star 100.0
9 Celebrity 96.0
10 Hy Beef 93.6
2014
Number Variety Weight
1 Celebrity 73.0
2 Crista 70.4
3 Jet Star 59.0
4 Beefmaster 54.2
5 Hy Beef 52.8
6 Rutgers 47.0
7 BHN 961 46.8
8 Supersonic 45.0
9 Florida 91 41.8
10 Red Bounty 39.8
2013 & 2014
Number Variety Weight
1 Beefmaster 189.0
2 Celebrity 169.0
3 Big Beef 166.6
4 Jet Star 159.0
5 BHN 961 157.6
6 Red Bounty 155.2
7 Crista 153.6
8 Rutgers 149.0
9 Supersonic 147.2
10 Hy Beef 146.4
Note that we combined both years and took the total weight of fruit. The data is interesting with Big Beef being the top variety in 2013, but not even making the list in 2014. Also, though Amana Orange is consistently our largest tomato, yield is so low it did not make the top 10 in yield for either year. (Ward Upham)
The top ten varieties for total yield are listed below. We have included the top 10 for 2013, the top for 2014, and the top when these two years are combined. We will only consider those tomatoes which were grown both years. We did not include cherry tomatoes or other small fruited types such as Roma. Weight is given in pounds. We had 16 varieties that met these criteria.
2013
Number Variety Weight
1 Big Beef 135.8
2 Beefmaster 134.8
3 Red Bounty 115.4
4 Black Krim 114.2
5 Scarlet Red 107.6
6 Supersonic 102.2
7 Rutgers 102.0
8 Jet Star 100.0
9 Celebrity 96.0
10 Hy Beef 93.6
2014
Number Variety Weight
1 Celebrity 73.0
2 Crista 70.4
3 Jet Star 59.0
4 Beefmaster 54.2
5 Hy Beef 52.8
6 Rutgers 47.0
7 BHN 961 46.8
8 Supersonic 45.0
9 Florida 91 41.8
10 Red Bounty 39.8
2013 & 2014
Number Variety Weight
1 Beefmaster 189.0
2 Celebrity 169.0
3 Big Beef 166.6
4 Jet Star 159.0
5 BHN 961 157.6
6 Red Bounty 155.2
7 Crista 153.6
8 Rutgers 149.0
9 Supersonic 147.2
10 Hy Beef 146.4
Note that we combined both years and took the total weight of fruit. The data is interesting with Big Beef being the top variety in 2013, but not even making the list in 2014. Also, though Amana Orange is consistently our largest tomato, yield is so low it did not make the top 10 in yield for either year. (Ward Upham)
Pests:
Check Plants for Scale Insects
The dormant season is a good time to check woody plants for scale insect infestations. This time of year, deciduous plants do not have leaves, so scale is more easily seen. If an infestation is detected, make plans to apply a dormant oil for control by March 1. Be sure the temperature is 40 degrees or above before spraying. Scale insects are easily overlooked because they are small and immobile most of their lives, and they do not resemble most other insects. Many of them resemble small shells that are oval or circular, but some have more unusual shapes like oyster shells. Coloring varies, but can include white, tan, and brown. Plants that should be inspected for scales include apples, pears, other fruit trees, bush fruits, lilac, crabapple, oak, ash, elm, lilac, maple, linden, arborvitae, juniper, pine, spruce and yew.
Manhattan euonymus, a broadleaf evergreen, is especially noted for having scale problems. Plants are not harmed if only a few scales are present. But scale population can increase dramatically during the growing season. Heavy scale infestations can damage fruit crops, destroy branches and kill entire plants. (Ward Upham)
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe
Manhattan euonymus, a broadleaf evergreen, is especially noted for having scale problems. Plants are not harmed if only a few scales are present. But scale population can increase dramatically during the growing season. Heavy scale infestations can damage fruit crops, destroy branches and kill entire plants. (Ward Upham)
Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate
To view Upcoming Events: http://tinyurl.com/fswqe
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