Lawn-mowing season is here. Remember that dull blades give the lawn a whitish cast. A dull blade does not cut cleanly but rather shreds the ends of the leaf blades. The shredded ends dry out, giving the lawn that whitish look. A sharp mower blade is even more important when the turf starts putting up seed heads next month. The seed head stems are much tougher than the grass blades and more likely to shred. Under normal use, mower blades should be sharpened about every 10 hours of use. (Ward Upham)
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If you planted cole crops such as cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower earlier this spring, they will need a little fertilizer boost. These plants need to mature before summer heat arrives, so they must grow quickly while the weather is cool. A sidedressing of fertilizer about 3 weeks after transplanting helps plants continue to grow rapidly. Use fertilizers high in nitrogen for sidedressing such as nitrate of soda or blood meal at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 feet of row. You may also use lawn fertilizers that have close to 30 percent nitrogen such as a 30-3-4 or 29-5-4 but the rate should be cut in half to 1 pound per 100 feet of row. Do not use lawn fertilizers that have weed killers or preventers. Fertilizer must be watered in if timely rains don't do that job for you. We have a sheet available that gives recommendations on how to sidedress specific vegetable crops. It can be found at: https://tinyurl.com/j2ggaa6 (Ward Upham) Most garden soils in Kansas have adequate levels of all nutrients other than nitrogen IF the area has been fertilized in the past. However, it is recommended that a soil test be done to be sure of the nutrient needs of your fruit planting. If the soil test recommends phosphorus and potassium, use a 10-10-10 fertilizer instead of what is recommended below but triple the rate. For example, instead of ½ cup per 10 feet of row, use 1.5 cups per 10 feet of row. Strawberries (June-Bearing): June-bearing strawberries are not fertilized in early spring as this can make the berries soft and more prone to rot. Fertilize at renovation and again in late August to early September. In most cases, strawberries need primarily nitrogen, so the recommendations are for a high nitrogen fertilizer such as a 27-3-3, 29-5-4, 30-3-3 or something similar. Though recommended for lawns, these fertilizers will also work well for strawberries as long as they do not contain weed killers or crabgrass preventers. Apply ½ cup for every 10 feet of row. Note: For more information on renovating strawberries, see page four at http://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf598.pdf Strawberries (Everbearing or Day-Neutral): Fertilize in the spring as growth starts and again in early August. Use the rates recommended for June-bearing strawberries. Everbearing (dayneutral) strawberries are not renovated. Brambles (Blackberries and Raspberries): In most cases, brambles need primarily nitrogen, so use a high nitrogen fertilizer such as a 27-3-3, 29-5-4, 30-3-3 or something similar unless a soil test directs otherwise. Though recommended for lawns, these fertilizers will also work well as long as they do not contain weed killers or crabgrass preventers. Apply ½ cup for every 10 feet of row. Fertilize in spring as growth begins. (Ward Upham) A spreader-sticker should be used in fruit tree sprays to improve the distribution and retention of fungicides and insecticides on fruit and leaves. However, even with a spreader-sticker, a rain can reduce the length of time the materials are effective. Less than one inch of rain since the last spray will not significantly affect residues. One to two inches of rain will reduce the residue by one half. Reduce the number of days until the next spray by one half. More than two inches of rain since the last spray will remove most of the spray residue. Re-spray as soon as possible. (Ward Upham) It can be a challenge to know how to spray fruit trees for pest control. Spray schedules will vary depending on whether the trees have fruit or not. Following are hints on what to spray this year for our most common fruit trees.
Peaches, nectarines and apricots: Most trees do not have fruit due to the December 18 cold snap and/or a late frost. Fruit buds on peaches and nectarines are most often killed if the temperature reaches -10 degrees. We had -10 degrees in Manhattan. The tree is fine but there will not be fruit any year with temperatures this low. Some apricots can also lose fruit buds at -10 degrees. If there will not be any fruit, there isn’t any need for being on a spray schedule. If there is fruit, use a product that contains captan or myclobutanil (Immunox, Fertilome F-Stop Lawn and Garden Spray) from now until about two weeks before harvest. Spray about every 10 days. If a specific problem develops such as borers, peach leaf curl or gummosis, see our listing of common problems at http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/plant-pest-problems.html Look under “Peach” for possible problems and what to do about them. Cherries: We often have good fruit on cherries without spraying. However, a wet spring can lead to problems with brown rot. Myclobutanil (Immunox, Fertilome F-Stop Lawn and Garden Spray) or Captan will give good protection. Cherry fruit fly may attack the cherries with the maggot causing damage to the fruit. Malathion (check label), Bonide Fruit Tree & Plant Guard or Sevin can be used for control. Pears: Pears are often able to escape damage without spraying. If trouble does arise, use the same recommendations given for apples. Apples: Apples are the crop most in need of a spray schedule. Unless you have disease-resistant trees, cedar-apple rust is a perennial problem. The larvae of the codling moth is the insect most likely to damage fruit. Control can be a challenge due to changing labels and an extended spray season. See our article in our March 21, 2017 newsletter on “Apple Tree Sprays” for details. You can find the newsletter at http://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/2017/March21_2017_12.pdf. (Ward Upham) Strawberries are one of the most popular fruits, but gardeners often have problems with weed control. Strawberries form a mat of plants, which makes hoeing difficult. Gardeners must pull weeds by hand or use herbicides. In small plantings, hand weeding is usually sufficient as weeds become less of a problem when the plants canopy over to block sunlight to the soil. In larger plantings, herbicides may prove helpful. Although there are no weed preventers available for homeowners to use on strawberries, Poast (sethoxydim), a grass-killing herbicide, can be used after weedy grasses have emerged. It can be sprayed directly over strawberries without harm but should not be applied within 7 days of harvest. You can find Poast in Fertilome Over the Top II, Hi-Yield Grass Killer and Monterey Grass Getter. (Ward Upham) Fruit growers often wonder at what temperature fruit buds are killed. Many of our peaches and some of the apricots had buds killed by the extreme cold we had on December 18 (-10 degrees in Manhattan). The trees were not hurt but there was no bloom this spring. The following will give you some guidelines but remember that the actual damage is going to be influenced by the weather before the temperature drops. An extended warm spell before the cold snap may result in more damage due to a loss in cold hardiness. (Ward Upham) Apple Stage 10% Kill (°F) 90% Kill (°F) Silver tip 15 2 Green tip 18 10 Half-inch green 23 15 Tight cluster 27 21 Pink 28 25 Bloom 28 25 Petal fall 28 25 Fruit set 28 25 Pear Stage 10% Kill (°F) 90% Kill (°F) Swollen bud 15 1 Bud burst 20 7 Green cluster 26 15 White bud 26 22 Bloom 28 23 Petal fall 28 24 Fruit set 28 24 Peach Stage 10% Kill (°F) 90% Kill (°F) Swollen bud 18 2 Half-inch green 23 5 Pink 25 18 Bloom 27 24 Petal fall 28 25 Fruit set 28 25 Tart Cherry Stage 10% Kill (°F) 90% Kill (°F) Bud burst 17 5 Green tip 25 14 Tight cluster 26 17 Swollen bud 27 24 Bloom 28 25 Petal fall 28 25 Fruit set 28 25 Plum and Prune Stage 10% Kill (°F) 90% Kill (°F) Swollen bud 14 1 Bud burst 18 3 Green cluster 26 16 White bud 26 21 Bloom 27 23 Petal fall 28 23 Fruit set 28 25 Apricot Stage 10% Kill (°F) 90% Kill (°F) First white 2 14 First Bloom 25 19 Full Bloom 27 22 In the Shuck 27 24 Green Fruit 28 25 One of the most difficult weeds to control in lawns is the wild violet. Even combination products that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba such as Trimec, Weed-Out and most formulations of Weed-B-Gon do not do a good job. Products with triclopyr give much better control though more than one treatment will likely be needed. A couple of products that contain triclopyr on the homeowner side are Turflon Ester and Weed-B-Gon Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis. (Note: There are several formulations of Weed-B-Gon but only Weed-B-Gon Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis contains triclopyr.) Both products listed above are labeled for tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Do not use products containing triclopyr on bermudagrass as severe injury will occur. Weed-B-Gon Chickweed Clover & Oxalis is labeled for buffalograss and zoysia (Turflon Ester is not) but lawns will likely show some temporary browning after application. Spray only on calm days and when temperatures are below 90 degrees to avoid damage to nearby plants. (Ward Upham) Turfgrass: Every Homeowner Needs to Know the Difference Between Roundup & Roundup for Lawns4/11/2017 The other day after eating dinner I was watching TV trying to finally relax. A commercial came on about Roundup for Lawns…. I thought to myself, “Oh man! This is going to cause a lot of confusion!” There is a huge difference in the active ingredients in Roundup compared to Roundup for Lawns. That is why it is so important to know what you are applying. Dr. Kevin Frank at Michigan State University just posted a great article about the difference between Roundup and Roundup for Lawns. Check it out here. http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/difference_between_roundup_and_roundup_for_lawns Every homeowner needs to know the difference! I will make a prediction. Due to the confusion with the names of these products, I will get at least one phone call this year where someone has killed their entire lawn with glyphosate because they thought they could use Roundup on their lawn and they put out the wrong product. Always remember to READ THE LABEL for the correct rate, turfgrass tolerance, and specific instructions before application!!! (Jared Hoyle) |
AuthorsCynthia Domenghini runs the Horticulture Response Center in the Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources at Kansas State University. Other contributors include K-State Extension Specialists. Archives
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